screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I'd be surprised if the intercooler lost a full lb of boost at that low of a PR. I could say 1psi drop at 10 or 12psi, but not 6.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I ono i am just using the app on garrett website, and i think everything is assuming ideal condition. I also think i set the redline to 7200.

You think i should get a gt30 instead of running this unit? Kinda just experimenti my here. Also the flange on the down pipe is made just for the holset bolt patterned so that would be an issue if i decide to swap

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I would say run it as is on 6 psi and see if you're happy with the power. If not, I would swap it out for a gt35. A gt30 might be a hair small. Did you already decide on an intercooler?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Still looking at the intercooler setup. I bought a 38mm waste gate and the rfl blow off valve. It does sound really nice. Vroom psh vroom psh.

For the intercooler ill show u what i had in mind. I want something larger enough to support the powern but small enough so that i can still keep the low speed impact bar. That way if i hit some stupid rabbit or w.e the impact bar will absorb the damage instead of going through the intercooler, radiator, or condenser. I drive through the boonies to work

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I like how the RFL BOV will whistle. Is your wastegate vented to atmosphere or plumbed to the downpipe?

Did you see that intercooler I told you about? It's similar in design to the one that the guy had, but there's nothing forcing you to mount it how he mounted his. You can always use a bracket to mount it lower, or between the frame and impact bar.

You'll probably see a larger pressure drop on a dual pass vs a single. The one I mentioned says it has a .2 - .5psi drop at 15psi, but so does the dual pass that the JnR uses. I think CXRacing just throws numbers up there honestly. I prefer the single pass since it has a 3.5in core, vs 3in.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Its vented to atmosphere. I actually got the kit today.The seller included a turbo that dump it to the ground. But it is way too late. I will take some pix on thursday on my day off.

Everything is already wrapped in heat wrap.

also is this the intercooler you were talking about? If so I wish I bought the intercooler from the guy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-25-...BS2dR7&vxp=mtr

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Also should I got 2 step colder or 1 step colder spark plugs?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301747214920?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

6 psi is probably what, 100hp at most added? I'm thinking 5-6psi on a J30 is probably gonna be about 340whp (just my own SWAG), so I'd start only one step colder and go down if you have to. Rule of thumb is a heat range colder per 100HPish added.

That was the intercooler I was referring to. I didn't link it in case the vendor nazis have a cow, but I guess there's no intercoolers for sale by TL vendors, lol. Does the guy still have his? If so, check to see the core size - I'd prefer the 3.5in to the 3in and the el cheapo accord v6 ebay kit has one that looks like that, but is much smaller.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

okay sounds good. I just read the chapter about spark plugs.

5-6 psi 1 step colder should be okay

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Teaser

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Vroom psh

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

see post 43 on the website below on how to setup the waste gate for PSI ranging from 4,5,6,8,9,and 10

EMUSA info - Page 3

UTAH TSX

That intercooler would be really hard to fit, the TL the frame horn were the bumper bolts on is really low, the upper tubing to the intercooler has to go under it, this will make that intercooler hang down below the radiator support, I used one of those on a TSX but the tube went over the frame horn.



This intercooler worked about perfect and it will flow plenty of air the dual pass drops intake temps a ton

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

i bought a 6psi wastegate spring separately. I just don't trust how they have to mess with all these different springs. I would rather just change 1 spring

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Twin scroll turbo on a open scroll manifold... Also the turbo charger is a holset hx35w. I think I need to rebuild the turbo. there some play on the shaft. Here some teaser

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I'm digging it.

What size is the piping from each manifold?

If you decide to change your mind and not run it, I call first dibs on the hot side piping. :-)

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That air filter looks poopy tho - I'd think it's way too small, but hard to tell for sure from the pic.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

the inlet for the downpipe is 1.75in. They are tiny!!! The pipes are 2-2.25in? I think he was using the stock cats. Sooo I think I need to port some of the flanges to get it to match my high flow cats


Part of the down pipe looks like it was crushed bent, but I can't tell since it is all wrapped up. Then back down to a 3in vband. I need to figure out how to tweak my current exhaust to a vband or get a 3 bolt flange.

it is pretty small. I think I am going to do an elbow so I can run a larger air filter.

just and FYI here are what the HFPC opening look like. About 2-2.17in. I think I should port the bottom part so that it is larger than the precat or else there is going to be some problems with the exhaust reversion

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

3.5in core intercooler

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRACING-Front-Mount-Intercooler-29-x8-x3-5-3-5-Core-22-x8-x3-5-2-5/291127058806?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140211132617%26meid%3D97e7b8e4213447509a94e23bcb86fa50%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D272077439403%26clkid%3D2120659312033789446&_qi=RTM2247627

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

this is pretty kool

Wideband Failsafe Gauge | AEM

UTAH TSX

We both have those and the gauge is nice but setting it up is a pain in the butt, I gave up on mine, maybe I will try it again someday since I just melted down a piston and need to replace my block on my K24 TSX, it could have maybe saved me

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I saw that gauge on your build thread. Just wondering if you recommend it vs running an AFR and a separate boost gauge?

I am so sorry about the melting piston. Was that the second time that a piston nuked out? Are you running an EGT gauge?

UTAH TSX

Yep #2 I have an EGT fail safe gauge and controller but the problem is when I get detonation the temps don't go up they actually drop a little bit, I recently added water meth injection and upped the boost to 23 PSI, we think cylinder 3 isn't getting enough of the mix so we are going to do a direct port injection instead of the pre throttle body injection, I hope that helps because 23 PSI feels really good I don't want to lower it.

UTAH TSX

Any wideband with an output so you can datalog it on the flashpro will do, the stock AF sensor reads way off under boost so don't even look at it while tuning.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

ahh got ya. I currently have an AEM AFR gauge, just wondering if I should make it clean and do one gauge or say screw it and do 2.

UTAH TSX

I have two my boost controller is a AEM true boost

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

its raining today. So I decided to do something else besides researching injectors and intercoolers

Building a hondata wiring harness for a buddy. I really don't blame hondata for charging so much for it. The labor to just repin the wiring take up more than half the cost.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Things I still need to buy

Spare oil pan (50-60)
Oil return and feed line (50)
Intercooler (100-200)
Intercooler piping (90)
Injectors (200-400)
Battery relocation kit (100)
Turbo rebuild kit (30)
3 bolt 3in flange (25)
Turbo gasket (15)
AEM Boost gauge (150)

Estimate another 1065 bucks

What I have so far:
Turbo Down pipe
Holset hx35w turbocharger
Turbo manifold
filter for turbo
AMUSA wastegate
6psi wastegate spring
RFL blow off valve
blow off valve pipe with adapter.

What I like:
XLR8 clutch kit

Back up money:
spare j30a5 motor or j35a5 motor.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I also forgot to add the upstream o2 sensor and spark plugs

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

200 - 400 sounds cheap for injectors. Most are around 90 bucks a pop. Where you getting a set for 400?

For spare motor money - would you go back to another J30? What about the MDX J35? It has 10:1 compression which might be more turbo friendly. They are fairly cheap too.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I think i been looking st the wrong fic. 59.99 for bosch ev14.

For the motor i been looking at j30a5 and some.j35a5 from.honda oddessy and pilot. The mdx counter parts are twice as expensive

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

https://secure.fuelinjectorconnectio...impedance.html

I been looking at these. Were they the wrong one?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That's the right FIC, but Andy said you have to call - they weren't listed on their website since they were custom made. He said they were 970cc Bosch Motorcycle Injectors and included pigtails.

I'd call before ordering those.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

here are the 970cc one. They are 95 bucks a pop

UTAH TSX

You can get Bosch ev14 injectors for about half the price, everyone in the Honda world is using them including me, the dual cone is nice but is it worth the $$$, if you have money to burn then yes but you are putting together a turbo kit so we know you are broke and eating romen noodles 3 times a day LOL

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

^ lol finally someone that understands!!

I am opening up the turbo today. Going to take a look at what need to be done. I am not 100% sure how freely it should spin. I can spin it but it stops pretty quick.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

I'd run a China turbo, ghetto rods, even a no-name wastegate before I skimped on injectors.

The SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT place to not skimp on a turbo setup is the fuel system.

I vote yes, they are indeed worth it. The OEM like atomization is definitely worth it.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Checked the turbo today. It definitely needs a rebuild. it was also missing the huge oring seal around the compressor side of the housing. I am pretty sure its caked with oil under there


this thingy where my finger is point to is kinda gritty feeling when it spins.





watching this video for the rebuild
and some more toys came in

rollaboy_95

If you have a divided turbo housing is it worth having the two separate pipes off each head feeding the turbo? Would it spool much faster?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

because the manifold flange is not divided it will not see the benefit of the separate exhaust pulse. It will act like a normal open scroll turbo. This is why I am planning to gasket match the turbo because there is going to be a lot of turbulence from the manifold to the merge on the turbo.