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Are you asking about an intercooler because you need one?
Instead of the dual pass one that the JnR kit came with, there's one on an unnamed auction site I'd suggest - if you search for CXRacing 25.5x13x3.5 Turbo FMIC Intercooler 3" Inlet & Outlet Ford Mustang you should find it. It's not a dual pass, so less pressure drop, and the inlet and outlet are on the same side. It's a little more expensive than the dual pass one, but it has a thicker core 3.5" vs 3".
There's also 3in intercooler piping kits available for 100 bucks - 8 pipes, with clamps and hoses.
I'm giving away all my secrets! I just got my car painted so next step is turbo kit build up.
If that is the HX35, let me know how it spools - I'd be afraid the exhaust housing is WAY too big.
Its custom made with mild steel and coated +.heat Wrapped. The turbo is a holset hx35 not sure ehich one exactly. Here is they dyno he gave me at 13 psi with forge piston. I only plan to run it 5-6 psi so maybe 50-70 whp increase. Trying not to blow a ringland by going low and slow first. I just bought the manifold, turbo, filter, and down pipe. I need to tweak the down pipe since he used vbands.
I also need a waste gate, bov, oil, injectors, return and supple line, oil sandwich, battery relocator, smaller water meth tank, and intercooler. I didnt like how his intercooler interfered with the low speed impact bar.
I am trying for rdx injector without doing a return line for now. Trying to keep it so i can switch back to stock if i needed to.
Pics of the manifold, stat! Glad someone went mild steel - that's what I'm gonna use. These aren't $50K cars and you won't have the turbo on the car for 10 years, so why waste money on stainless.
Don't want to disappoint you, but that turbo may not do what you want at 5 - 6 psi. Since it's designed for a diesel truck, it probably doesn't start breathing until 20psi or so.
That dyno graph he didn't hit peak torque until 6200 rpms - ouch.
What flange is it? T3?
What size downpipe opening? Im thinking probably 3in, but I didn't know the exhaust housings were v-band on them. I thought they ran internal wastegates with 5 bolt housings.
I'd say get it all running as is, and if you don't care for the power delivery, look at a GT30 china turbo. Would give better spool, and their like 200 bucks.
Is the wastegate port v-band? A lot of the domestic guys I know run china wastegates without issue, but import fanbois are scared of them. I think it stems from 15 year olds buying a crap kit and blowing stuff up and blaming the parts. You can always get a Tial and have warm fuzzies if you want to spend that much. What size is the wastegate port - 38mm?
RFL BOV has a great whistle sound. I loved it on my WRX.
For injectors, if you have RDX's lying around you might as well use them, but I'd go to Fuel Injector Connection (not Clinic) like Andy said and get those. They'll give you room to grow.
Do you already have a fuel pump? Add that to the list if not.
I got a Jegs battery relo kit and it worked great and was cheap. I also got terminals to put under the hood, though I'll probably have to relocate them when I install the turbo setup.
Damn wrote me an essay. Ill check out the fuel pump and injectors later. It wont go on until spring. It started to snow today. I also have the compressor map for the turbo and it is within range. I rather have the tq up top so that my clutch doesnt die to fast, especially since this my dd.
T3 flange. Not sure if it needs an oil restrictor or anything. I am probably going to rebuilt the turbo just because he had it on his car for 3 years. It was on a j30a4. Down pipe is 3in. With an external waste gate. I believe 38mm.
Going to run meth and 93. For some reason WV hates e85. Everyone loves their coal!!
Could you link me to a battery relocator kit. I need to move my water meth tank also and have the battery take its place. I am going to budget at least another 2-3k on top of what i paid for the turbo. So tax season is just around the corner :p
Originally Posted by screaminz28
Pics of the manifold, stat! Glad someone went mild steel - that's what I'm gonna use. These aren't $50K cars and you won't have the turbo on the car for 10 years, so why waste money on stainless.
Don't want to disappoint you, but that turbo may not do what you want at 5 - 6 psi. Since it's designed for a diesel truck, it probably doesn't start breathing until 20psi or so.
That dyno graph he didn't hit peak torque until 6200 rpms - ouch.
What flange is it? T3?
What size downpipe opening? Im thinking probably 3in, but I didn't know the exhaust housings were v-band on them. I thought they ran internal wastegates with 5 bolt housings.
I'd say get it all running as is, and if you don't care for the power delivery, look at a GT30 china turbo. Would give better spool, and their like 200 bucks.
Is the wastegate port v-band? A lot of the domestic guys I know run china wastegates without issue, but import fanbois are scared of them. I think it stems from 15 year olds buying a crap kit and blowing stuff up and blaming the parts. You can always get a Tial and have warm fuzzies if you want to spend that much. What size is the wastegate port - 38mm?
RFL BOV has a great whistle sound. I loved it on my WRX.
For injectors, if you have RDX's lying around you might as well use them, but I'd go to Fuel Injector Connection (not Clinic) like Andy said and get those. They'll give you room to grow.
Do you already have a fuel pump? Add that to the list if not.
I got a Jegs battery relo kit and it worked great and was cheap. I also got terminals to put under the hood, though I'll probably have to relocate them when I install the turbo setup.
It comes with threaded rods and tie down so you can mount it directly to the trunk, but I havent used that yet because my exhaust needs to drop and its held together by rust. I have it held in place with the battery box straps and it works fine.
You can buy everything separate, but it worked out cheaper for me to buy that since it came with everything I needed. I also bought some heatshrink tubing from Harbor Freight so the ends would look pretty.
That's the easy way to do it, and if you're using RV6 Precats, very minimal chance of the manifold cracking at the head since its a cast piece.
It does add cost to the overall kit though, as you surely wouldn't want to use stock precats.
And we know that the RV6 PCDs are quality cast too, so I imagine that's a smart way of going about it, especially if you already have the PCDs. Huh, never considered that you could do that before!
I been saying by that the whole time. And its pretty smog and pollution friendly. Minus visual inspection of course
Originally Posted by N1h1l1ty
And we know that the RV6 PCDs are quality cast too, so I imagine that's a smart way of going about it, especially if you already have the PCDs. Huh, never considered that you could do that before!
Here is what the guy turbo setup look like. I didn't like how the front intercooler takes away the front low speed impact bar. So I was planning to build my own.
Unless Utah changed his FMIC, that isn't his. He had the dual pass like the JnR. That one look like it has a hard pipe running under the intercooler from the opposite side.
The intercooler that the guy had looked good except for the thickness. It looked like it wasn't a 3.5in core.
Any pics of the manifold by itself? I'd like to see the routing.
Did he include an oil pan too, or will you just tap yours?
Unless Utah changed his FMIC, that isn't his. He had the dual pass like the JnR. That one look like it has a hard pipe running under the intercooler from the opposite side.
The intercooler that the guy had looked good except for the thickness. It looked like it wasn't a 3.5in core.
Any pics of the manifold by itself? I'd like to see the routing.
Did he include an oil pan too, or will you just tap yours?
I'm a complete idiot - That isn't Utah's, that's the local shop to me that built the 700 whp stroked high compression J35 TL
I even have all of their photos saved from that build
No oil pan included his building a even larger turbo setup. I am planning to just use a oil filter sandwich so that way I can return the car to stock easily just in case I plan to move back to california.
NO pix of the manifold itself. I will take detail pix when I can
I think you need an open area for the return line to drain to. If there is ANY kind of restriction in the drain area, oil will slow and get stuck in the turbo and find its way out.
How do most people feed the turbos here? From the VTEC pressure switch? I've heard that is a no-no or at least not recommended.
I could be reading that compressor map, but I see it saying that its best efficiency is at 33psi, and the lowest the compressor map even goes is 20 psi.
so you are saying that the return line have to be gravity feed into or open area so that there is no restriction to it right? **i just woke up**
Also I bought that turbo book that someone recommended. Going to be doing a lot of research before I put everything on.
Yeah, you're not the first person to think about using the sandwhich adapter, but for the return line, you need a gravity feed. Both sides of the sandwhich adapter are pressurized, or need to be. So, you have hardly any pressure going back into the filter/pump. Also, if there is any backpressure in the return line, the oil will want to escape from the seals.
What turbo book did you get? I've got one that is really good - heck i may have recommended it before!
also looking back at the dyno chart that was provided to me by the previous owner. I think I like the way the power raises because it is very linear. I don't think my tires or my stock clutch would like 330ft/lb tq at 3600 rpm like accordflex awesome build, but who knows maybe I'll swap to a gt30 style later on.
As of right now I am just trying to do all my homework and avoid blowing up a piston like the other previous turbo builds.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 12-19-2015 at 11:15 AM.
Not a stupid question at all. Hands down, the best, safest, and most accurate boost controller is: not having one.
Do you have a reason for wanting one? You're probably going to be hard pressed to find a wastegate spring set as low as 5 - 6 psi, I've usually seen them around 8 psi or higher.
If you REALLY want one - I'd get a Hallman manual boost controller. They are very nice, and inexpensive if you need one. I don't like electronic ones at all- they make it WAAY too easy to blow your car up.
Boost is addictive. I'm serious, it's like crushed up oxy, sprinkled with crack, and sex all mixed together. You'll start out at 5 psi, and be happy with the new found power. Then, you'll be like, 8psi should be ok on the stock motor, I'll run some more meth and bring the timing down. That extra power comes and you're like "HOLY HELL YES!" So you bump it to 9, then 10, then you just say F it - 15. You might even get away with 15 psi on the stock motor for months - maybe a year. But then, you'll decide that you can dump some race gas in it, hit 20psi and roll out on a Z06. So you do, and grenade the motor.
You only need a boost controller to go UP from the wastegate spring. You can't lower it.
I found a cheap wastegate that has 4 and 6 psi waste gate spring. The 5 psi spring is going to need to bought seperately.
For the blow off valve i like the hks ss one that i posted on the front page.
I remember someone said they would hook me up with an intercooler, piping, and blow off valve a few months back. I deleted the pm so if you happened to see this message could u pm me back
Man, all this turbo talk and the supercharger thread on v6p makes me want to start mine! I guess I can order the flanges and piping and get started on the manifold...
can you guys help school me? I circle the area in black. What if the turbo runs somewhere down there? Does that hurt the turbo or puts it out of the efficiency range? I know the part on the left and to the right is the surge line, but is that bottom part in the black also part of the surge line?
Hopefully someone that has more understanding than I do will chime in, but my understanding is that the turbo is not efficient at moving that low of a volume of air, or that it may require a higher pressure ratio to spin the turbine wheel effectively. I tried to find concrete info on it, but most people run the opposite (i.e. higher PR than turbo is designed for) than too low of a PR.
The one thing I don't see is how you expect to run that low lb/min. I show a 3L engine with 90% VE max rpm of 7000 using 333 cfm of air N/A. Your target boost is 5psi, which makes the total airflow 398 CFM, or 27.4lb/min. If you plot that on your compressor map, it's pas the choke line. You're not even on the map at 4000 rpm, only 15lb/min.
I assume the intercooler eats up 1 psi. So in theory the turbo is actually running at 6psi. It just looses 1 psi after the compressor and becomes 5psi. That is my understanding of that equation
12-18-2015, 05:44 AM
