DIY runner removal After manifold
04-27-2009, 11:46 AM
#3
Removing intake runners to have them ported and polished to match the intake manifold that is being port matched to the throttle body, and the manifold is being ported to remove any factory casting marks. I'll take pictures and dyno as soon as it's done.
04-27-2009, 04:51 PM
#5
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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good write up... but some of the guys that are not familiar with their engine bay will be completely lost
the op is showing you how to install the Intake Runners which excelerate sells ported...
the op is showing you how to install the Intake Runners which excelerate sells ported...
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04-28-2009, 01:22 AM
#9
Yes I definitely fall into this category. Thanks for the pic. It helps. So is this mod really going to help?
04-29-2009, 03:01 PM
#12
Duh
04-29-2009, 03:25 PM
#13
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Nice project! Keep us updated on the progress. How much are paying to p&p your runners?
04-29-2009, 03:30 PM
#14
04-29-2009, 03:48 PM
#15
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
damn.. those are good prices for all the work that's involved for the intake manifold & runners. What's the turnaround?
Also what are you boring your T/B too? I believe RacingHart did 70mm successfully. I have an extra T/B and I'm still up in the air about what I'm going to do.. I'm guessing you're going to be using wideband sensors. I'll have to checkout those speed of science map sensors as well. GL on everything!
Also what are you boring your T/B too? I believe RacingHart did 70mm successfully. I have an extra T/B and I'm still up in the air about what I'm going to do.. I'm guessing you're going to be using wideband sensors. I'll have to checkout those speed of science map sensors as well. GL on everything!
04-29-2009, 07:26 PM
#16
Suzuka Master
good luck with the 30 hp gain
04-29-2009, 10:32 PM
#17
Hey, did you cuz port match the manifold? Did you cuz remove casting marks in the intake manifold? Did you cuz bore the throttle body? Did you cuz port match the runners to the cylinder heads? Did you cuz hook up a vafc? To change the curve? If you answer no to 3 things that I talked about, then shut the hell up. Mrs. I know everything. Because this set up if acute. Will at least gain 30Hp if done correctly. Hmmm Increase volume increase velocity, Hmm increase fuel, Hmm increase timing or retard? Hmm getting a new map sense from speed of science. Any more questions from the negative gallery? In the end this will give some tuners on this page an idea of how much power the mod’s will achieve after done correctly.
04-30-2009, 12:35 AM
#18
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The 30hp won't be top end... It'll come throught the powerband ie. Like 30hp more at vtec range...
My boy wanderer pnp the runners and the intake manifold
His shit pull so hard downlow
My boy wanderer pnp the runners and the intake manifold
His shit pull so hard downlow
04-30-2009, 12:54 AM
#19
Hey, did you cuz port match the manifold? Did you cuz remove casting marks in the intake manifold? Did you cuz bore the throttle body? Did you cuz port match the runners to the cylinder heads? Did you cuz hook up a vafc? To change the curve? If you answer no to 3 things that I talked about, then shut the hell up. Mrs. I know everything. Because this set up if acute. Will at least gain 30Hp if done correctly. Hmmm Increase volume increase velocity, Hmm increase fuel, Hmm increase timing or retard? Hmm getting a new map sense from speed of science. Any more questions from the negative gallery? In the end this will give some tuners on this page an idea of how much power the mod’s will achieve after done correctly.
one problem... i am pretty sure the VAFC will NOT be able to advance the timing... only retard it... in fact, i dont think ANY aftermarket piggy back is capable of it (greddy emanage, aem fi/c, vafc)
With a N/A setup, you need to advance timing.. not retard.... retarding is for F/I systems
and, FYI, the VAFC-2 is better for our cars, but you should get the AEM FI/C 1910.... its definitely the best box to be used for the 3G TL
good luck
--- did you happen to take pre-install dynos??
04-30-2009, 03:56 AM
#20
Almost spot-on...
one problem... i am pretty sure the VAFC will NOT be able to advance the timing... only retard it... in fact, i dont think ANY aftermarket piggy back is capable of it (greddy emanage, aem fi/c, vafc)
With a N/A setup, you need to advance timing.. not retard.... retarding is for F/I systems
and, FYI, the VAFC-2 is better for our cars, but you should get the AEM FI/C 1910.... its definitely the best box to be used for the 3G TL
good luck
--- did you happen to take pre-install dynos??
one problem... i am pretty sure the VAFC will NOT be able to advance the timing... only retard it... in fact, i dont think ANY aftermarket piggy back is capable of it (greddy emanage, aem fi/c, vafc)
With a N/A setup, you need to advance timing.. not retard.... retarding is for F/I systems
and, FYI, the VAFC-2 is better for our cars, but you should get the AEM FI/C 1910.... its definitely the best box to be used for the 3G TL
good luck
--- did you happen to take pre-install dynos??
YES search mustang dyno.
04-30-2009, 05:08 AM
#21
Almost spot-on...
one problem... i am pretty sure the VAFC will NOT be able to advance the timing... only retard it... in fact, i dont think ANY aftermarket piggy back is capable of it (greddy emanage, aem fi/c, vafc)
With a N/A setup, you need to advance timing.. not retard.... retarding is for F/I systems
and, FYI, the VAFC-2 is better for our cars, but you should get the AEM FI/C 1910.... its definitely the best box to be used for the 3G TL
good luck
--- did you happen to take pre-install dynos??
one problem... i am pretty sure the VAFC will NOT be able to advance the timing... only retard it... in fact, i dont think ANY aftermarket piggy back is capable of it (greddy emanage, aem fi/c, vafc)
With a N/A setup, you need to advance timing.. not retard.... retarding is for F/I systems
and, FYI, the VAFC-2 is better for our cars, but you should get the AEM FI/C 1910.... its definitely the best box to be used for the 3G TL
good luck
--- did you happen to take pre-install dynos??
Has for the port/polish, did this on my ride and I noticed more with just the IM then when I did the lower runners afterwards it felt a tad better, feels like it revs up a bit quicker and has a tad bit more pull.
As for removing the lower runners, one of them must be removed first otherwise they wont come out I think it was the front bank runners, but I could be mistaken, either way who tries this will see what I mean. Also becareful to remove the fuel rails with injectors still in them carefully! You can chip the ends of the injectors, which doesn't render them useless but if you can avoid doing it then by all means
As anyone thought about the more expensive extrude honing process? Perhaps doing the IM and lower runners at the same time.
04-30-2009, 08:28 AM
#22
If I remember correctly the GEB could only retard timing or something along those lines, the VAFC has no timing control what so ever, just fuel trimming pretty much.
Has for the port/polish, did this on my ride and I noticed more with just the IM then when I did the lower runners afterwards it felt a tad better, feels like it revs up a bit quicker and has a tad bit more pull.
As for removing the lower runners, one of them must be removed first otherwise they wont come out I think it was the front bank runners, but I could be mistaken, either way who tries this will see what I mean. Also becareful to remove the fuel rails with injectors still in them carefully! You can chip the ends of the injectors, which doesn't render them useless but if you can avoid doing it then by all means
As anyone thought about the more expensive extrude honing process? Perhaps doing the IM and lower runners at the same time.
Has for the port/polish, did this on my ride and I noticed more with just the IM then when I did the lower runners afterwards it felt a tad better, feels like it revs up a bit quicker and has a tad bit more pull.
As for removing the lower runners, one of them must be removed first otherwise they wont come out I think it was the front bank runners, but I could be mistaken, either way who tries this will see what I mean. Also becareful to remove the fuel rails with injectors still in them carefully! You can chip the ends of the injectors, which doesn't render them useless but if you can avoid doing it then by all means
As anyone thought about the more expensive extrude honing process? Perhaps doing the IM and lower runners at the same time.
There were a lot of casting marks previously. But I have noticed Acura has gotten very good with their intake systems. My 4G upper manifold is very smooth. Almost no point at all to touch it. At most just port matching.
04-30-2009, 09:22 AM
#23
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Do they have a flow bench? If not then its pretty pointless to port them.
A family member of mine works at www.levelperformance.com in fremont ohio. He quoted me for the total job minus the throttle body. $300 for runners intake manifold porting. plus port matching when the throttle body returns to me from www.maxbore.com
04-30-2009, 09:55 AM
#24
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Hey CleanCL,
What was the end result in your opinion? Is it worth the feria?
What was the end result in your opinion? Is it worth the feria?
04-30-2009, 10:49 AM
#25
There are parts of the upper manifold that might be hard to access, so the extrude hone does clean up casting marks in that area. It's good for maybe a few horsepower. I think it would only be worth it for forced induction. Otherwise my suggestion is to stick with port matching for naturally aspirated setup.
05-01-2009, 02:21 PM
#26
I'm really not sure if it's all or some people on this forum, but sure is a lot of dumb asses. Jesus you guys bitch when you don't have hp. And then when someone is sharing experiments to gain hp you knock them? My honest though would be unless you tried it your self shut yhe hell up.
05-01-2009, 06:52 PM
#29
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I think it was directed towards JS08TLS & TL|GTX
05-13-2009, 03:15 AM
#34
Team Owner
I'm really not sure if it's all or some people on this forum, but sure is a lot of dumb asses. Jesus you guys bitch when you don't have hp. And then when someone is sharing experiments to gain hp you knock them? My honest though would be unless you tried it your self shut yhe hell up.
I'm huge on the small details. I assemble the lower intake manifold (GN but it still applies) with gaskets and put a little torque on the bolts. Any gasket material that shows in the ports is trimmed away. Same with the upper manifold and TB gasket. I match every part so well that when you run your finger over the transitions you can't feel them. Little stuff like that adds up and best of all, it's mostly free. It's the attention to detail that allows me to run in the 10s on worked stock parts. There's no reason why a "cleaned up" bolt on TL should be able to hit mid 13s.
05-13-2009, 03:25 AM
#35
It's good to see someone finally getting into the motor instead of just bolt-ons. IMO, none of these mods are worth the trouble by themselves but porting the heads, upper and lower manifold, and a larger TB will all compliment each other nicely.
I'm huge on the small details. I assemble the lower intake manifold (GN but it still applies) with gaskets and put a little torque on the bolts. Any gasket material that shows in the ports is trimmed away. Same with the upper manifold and TB gasket. I match every part so well that when you run your finger over the transitions you can't feel them. Little stuff like that adds up and best of all, it's mostly free. It's the attention to detail that allows me to run in the 10s on worked stock parts. There's no reason why a "cleaned up" bolt on TL should be able to hit mid 13s.
I'm huge on the small details. I assemble the lower intake manifold (GN but it still applies) with gaskets and put a little torque on the bolts. Any gasket material that shows in the ports is trimmed away. Same with the upper manifold and TB gasket. I match every part so well that when you run your finger over the transitions you can't feel them. Little stuff like that adds up and best of all, it's mostly free. It's the attention to detail that allows me to run in the 10s on worked stock parts. There's no reason why a "cleaned up" bolt on TL should be able to hit mid 13s.
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