DIY 4" intake
03-15-2013, 09:59 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
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DIY 4" intake
Due to all the hype on 4" intakes on the J30 7th gen accords(TL's little brother), I will be putting one on my TL-S. Not sure how many other TL-S are running this setup, but a quick search showed its mostly accords. Obviously this is for people who are interested in function over form as this WILL outperform the very popular AEM V2 cold air intake. I ordered a 4" 90 degree aluminum pipe, 3"-4" coupler, 4" clamps, and a 4" K&N filter. Parts should be here in a couple days and I'll post some pics and a small DIY if you guys are interested. Here is a pic from an accord over at v6.p forum to give an example:
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08smr6mt (02-14-2021)
03-15-2013, 10:32 PM
#3
Suzuka Master
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Saw your post over on v-six-p that you ordered the parts. I was going to PM you but now I don't have to. I would assume what's working for them will work for us since the Accord AEM V2 fits the TL. I need to hurry up and order a Braille soon too; I want lots of room.
03-16-2013, 08:52 PM
#5
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
This is really more suited for those who have done the 3.7 SHAWD manifold and TB swap. There are dyno proven gains on VsixP and on here by Sonnick. I wouldn't bother if you're still on the stock manifold/ TB, unless it's all ported.
03-17-2013, 09:05 AM
#7
Drifting
Can't wait for the DIY!!
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03-18-2013, 02:55 PM
#11
Safety Car
03-20-2013, 11:13 AM
#15
All motor
Nothing is wrong with it lol. Usually the Civic's (not RSX's because they are cable throttle) want the larger TBs because they are porting their stock IM (RBC) or RRC to match the throttle body. The 4" CAI may not give you all that much gain on the stock IM/TB. You may get a couple HP, but you won't see much gains until you do the 3.7 setup. My dyno is on here somewhere, but I gained 8-10whp/tq in the midrange and 2 peak with my 4" velocity stack setup OVER my AEM V1.
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maharajamd (03-21-2013)
03-21-2013, 08:04 AM
#19
All motor
Looks good man. It will sound deeper for sure. Again, not sure you're gonna gain all that much considering you are on the stock IM/TB. With that said, below is my dyno before/after the 4" CAI on my 3.0L Accord with the 3.7 IM/TB setup.
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rockstar143 (03-22-2013)
03-21-2013, 10:30 AM
#21
Drifting
Thats massive! and looks badass! you should get the tubing powder coated
03-21-2013, 09:24 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
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Parts needed:
3x 4.25" clamps
1x 45 degree 4" coupler
1x 3"-4" reducer coupler
1x 4" piping, 90 degree bend, centerline radius 6", tangent length 8"
1x 4' K&N filter RF1015
everything is available through ebay, cost me $112 shipped.
For the piping, I cut off 2" on 1 end, and 6" on the other end. In retrospect, 1" cut instead of 2" probably would have been better but it'll still work.
3x 4.25" clamps
1x 45 degree 4" coupler
1x 3"-4" reducer coupler
1x 4" piping, 90 degree bend, centerline radius 6", tangent length 8"
1x 4' K&N filter RF1015
everything is available through ebay, cost me $112 shipped.
For the piping, I cut off 2" on 1 end, and 6" on the other end. In retrospect, 1" cut instead of 2" probably would have been better but it'll still work.
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03-21-2013, 09:44 PM
#25
03-21-2013, 09:54 PM
#26
KingKong_Dav
takeda intakes have a 4inch taper to 3 1/2 to a 3inch all the way to the throttle body. no compromise for low end and top end. i happen to own one.
so by doing a 4inch intake what is the benefit?
so by doing a 4inch intake what is the benefit?
03-22-2013, 01:45 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
well the difference between these intakes are marginal at best I won't deny that, however given my recent jpipe and atlp exhaust additions, i think the 4" cai complimented it very well. I honestly feel like I gained some top end power with this intake, low and mid feels the same to me. some might say its psychological too and flame me for saying the intake made the car faster. what's for sure is that it sounds nice!
03-22-2013, 08:02 AM
#30
Drifting
this makes me wanna do, but I dont have any supporting mods to make it even worth doing.
03-22-2013, 10:27 AM
#31
All motor
^ Wouldn't be worth it for you, unless you plan on doing more mods in the future.
03-22-2013, 11:24 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
My theory:
* With your current modifications, adding the intake will cause power loss because of A/F unbalanced.
Having manifold or TB pnp'd would probably be the benefit of having a bigger intake. Since our vtec point is already set so high, having bigger pipings will have little impact down low RPM's but for more high revving RPM's. The stock cams love the mid range RPM power so even out your performance mods on where you want the power to boost. On a Kseries (i-Vtec), they are different as they see 8K - 9K RPM's and bigger is better for them and their vtec starts right at 4K- 4.5K depending on their power mods as well.
* With your current modifications, adding the intake will cause power loss because of A/F unbalanced.
Having manifold or TB pnp'd would probably be the benefit of having a bigger intake. Since our vtec point is already set so high, having bigger pipings will have little impact down low RPM's but for more high revving RPM's. The stock cams love the mid range RPM power so even out your performance mods on where you want the power to boost. On a Kseries (i-Vtec), they are different as they see 8K - 9K RPM's and bigger is better for them and their vtec starts right at 4K- 4.5K depending on their power mods as well.
Last edited by bouncer07; 03-22-2013 at 11:29 AM.
03-22-2013, 11:50 AM
#33
Drifting
Ya, Im prolly just gonna do the resonator delete for sound and save my money. prolly not gonna do any power enhancing mods since I want to keep somewhat stock. I have a hard time keeping vehicles for long. and if kept fresh and somewhat stock ill get more money back when comes time to sell. I feel if I wanted a fast car I got to start with a car that is already fast. takes too much money to get a slow car to go fast. TL is pretty quick out of the box at least for me so im happy with it the way it is.
03-22-2013, 12:57 PM
#34
Pro
Parts needed:
3x 4.25" clamps
1x 45 degree 4" coupler
1x 3"-4" reducer coupler
1x 4" piping, 90 degree bend, centerline radius 6", tangent length 8"
1x 4' K&N filter RF1015
everything is available through ebay, cost me $112 shipped.
For the piping, I cut off 2" on 1 end, and 6" on the other end. In retrospect, 1" cut instead of 2" probably would have been better but it'll still work.
3x 4.25" clamps
1x 45 degree 4" coupler
1x 3"-4" reducer coupler
1x 4" piping, 90 degree bend, centerline radius 6", tangent length 8"
1x 4' K&N filter RF1015
everything is available through ebay, cost me $112 shipped.
For the piping, I cut off 2" on 1 end, and 6" on the other end. In retrospect, 1" cut instead of 2" probably would have been better but it'll still work.
03-22-2013, 01:39 PM
#35
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
Paperboy, what did you do with the breather hose from the manifold? I believe some people are just using a small filter on the end of it. I also have the IAT sensor to deal with since I have no provision for it on the 3.7 manifold. I can either relocate it under the front bumper or drill and have a bung welded into the 4" intake, which is what I'd rather do. Might as well weld on a second port for the breather hose while I'm there.
03-22-2013, 02:00 PM
#36
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hondazex (03-22-2013)
