Debating on uninstalling my CAI, need advice.
11-07-2012, 10:03 AM
#41
^ Ironically enough, his trap speed increased ~3mph lol. Not only that, but it was 30 degrees hotter out as well. 3GStealth, check the Density Altitude for the 2 days at the track then compare the corrected numbers. I bet despite the 30 degree difference, there is some other variable involved. Come to think of it, in your thread didn't you say you went to the track the first time with 'just RV6 V3 Jpipe?' And when you went back you had CAI/Jpipe/Type S cats/PnP runners?
It wouldn't take 30whp across the powerband to yield a 3mph increase. I gained ~5-10whp from 5000 to 6000 and ~10-15whp after 6000 RPM and my trap speed increased by 2mph uncorrected. Corrected trap difference was 2.5mph since the conditions were worse off than the day of my 102mph trap.
It wouldn't take 30whp across the powerband to yield a 3mph increase. I gained ~5-10whp from 5000 to 6000 and ~10-15whp after 6000 RPM and my trap speed increased by 2mph uncorrected. Corrected trap difference was 2.5mph since the conditions were worse off than the day of my 102mph trap.
11-07-2012, 04:32 PM
#42
OP...way to ruin my name 
I love the CAI...those codes are not CAI related....sometimes it takes the ECU couple miles and sometimes it takes the ECU couple days to get those codes....
PCD's should have defouler and even with the defouler at times multiple members get the codes....run some seafoam....reset your ECU....remove the O2 sensors and clean em....these are the 3 solutions which come to my mind....
now to your CAI....any cheap tubing will do, just make sure the filter is good....if those are the only 2 codes you are getting then i dont think you missed any connector (around the CAI) unplugged....
how many miles on your TL ?
I love the CAI...those codes are not CAI related....sometimes it takes the ECU couple miles and sometimes it takes the ECU couple days to get those codes....
PCD's should have defouler and even with the defouler at times multiple members get the codes....run some seafoam....reset your ECU....remove the O2 sensors and clean em....these are the 3 solutions which come to my mind....
now to your CAI....any cheap tubing will do, just make sure the filter is good....if those are the only 2 codes you are getting then i dont think you missed any connector (around the CAI) unplugged....
how many miles on your TL ?
You shouldn't get slow response codes if the defoulers are installed properly. The defoulers are shipped one turn back from protuding into the PCD and pointed up. You can also try enlarging the orifice to the defoulers. People with this issue have been having luck with a 3/8" orifice.
As for the CAI/codes thing, I guess it was really just coincidental.
To piggy back off the CAI, 1/4 mile thread thing. And yes, I have a quality filter in there, not the crap one it came with.
I'm at 14.606 at 98.18 mph with a 2.340 60' with the mods in the sig (minus the motor mounts)
11-08-2012, 11:39 AM
#43
All motor
^ Work on that 60' and you will be in the low 14s. I'd advise shifting the car yourself to ensure it shifts at redline for the most power.
11-10-2012, 03:38 PM
#47
11-11-2012, 04:57 PM
#48
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btw did you ever clean the defoulers/O2 sensors? That should help you solve the CEL issue
I would do that before you drill biller holes in your defoulers
11-11-2012, 07:43 PM
#49
Anyway, I have tried the cleaning idea in the past. I was thinking about it more, I think the holes just aren't large enough. I've done a few bolt ons, and I'm sure the computer is encountering more exhaust gasses since the A/F ratio would be the same.
Anyway, it's nice (but strange) not to have the car feeling like its going to fall apart when idling in gear
11-11-2012, 11:08 PM
#50
All motor
So you have the 75a front/side mount and the OEM rear? And it doesn't vibrate?
11-12-2012, 12:05 AM
#51
Burning Brakes
Here's a crazy idea. Take off your intake for a few days and see how you like.
My guess is the car will feel much stronger at most all rpms, will have more throttle response and feel snappier, but with much less noise.
My guess is the car will feel much stronger at most all rpms, will have more throttle response and feel snappier, but with much less noise.
11-12-2012, 01:26 AM
#52
Suzuka Master
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Dave, c'mon. 10-15 whp can't even be felt on the butt dyno, but you're saying you think his car will feel "much stronger at most all rpms" after going back to the stock intake?
I gained a corrected 1.2-1.4 mph after installing HFC's and I honestly couldn't swear the car felt any faster. I wanted to say it was stronger >5500, but again I wouldn't have put money on it. Yet the traps indicated a good 10-13 whp gain. But you think his car will feel much stronger after putting his stock intake back on?
You're implying he's losing massive power with the CAI, which I don't buy. If he was running a short ram in 100 degree temps, it'd be a different story.
As far as I know, the only reason the G loses power with a CAI (and I bet it's not enough to feel seat of the pants), is because the G is a MAF car. The new intake pipe has a larger diameter, effectively slowing the incoming air speed. The MAF sensor in the pipe sends this information to the ECU, which thinks there's actually less air coming in and cuts back on the fuel, negating any gains or even causing a loss in power.
TL's use speed density, which by nature is less sensitive to intake changes. If you can show some data that shows these cars lose power with a CAI, I'd like to read it.
I gained a corrected 1.2-1.4 mph after installing HFC's and I honestly couldn't swear the car felt any faster. I wanted to say it was stronger >5500, but again I wouldn't have put money on it. Yet the traps indicated a good 10-13 whp gain. But you think his car will feel much stronger after putting his stock intake back on?
You're implying he's losing massive power with the CAI, which I don't buy. If he was running a short ram in 100 degree temps, it'd be a different story.
As far as I know, the only reason the G loses power with a CAI (and I bet it's not enough to feel seat of the pants), is because the G is a MAF car. The new intake pipe has a larger diameter, effectively slowing the incoming air speed. The MAF sensor in the pipe sends this information to the ECU, which thinks there's actually less air coming in and cuts back on the fuel, negating any gains or even causing a loss in power.
TL's use speed density, which by nature is less sensitive to intake changes. If you can show some data that shows these cars lose power with a CAI, I'd like to read it.
11-12-2012, 05:43 AM
#53
Now.. with just that one mount changed, no rattles, perfectly quiet idling in gear. A little more engine movement, but my sanity is happy again.
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11-12-2012, 10:06 AM
#54
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Well, project day was monopolized today by re-installing the rear motor mount (factory this time). PITA when its new to get it to work. At least it was for me.
Anyway, I have tried the cleaning idea in the past. I was thinking about it more, I think the holes just aren't large enough. I've done a few bolt ons, and I'm sure the computer is encountering more exhaust gasses since the A/F ratio would be the same.
Anyway, it's nice (but strange) not to have the car feeling like its going to fall apart when idling in gear
Anyway, I have tried the cleaning idea in the past. I was thinking about it more, I think the holes just aren't large enough. I've done a few bolt ons, and I'm sure the computer is encountering more exhaust gasses since the A/F ratio would be the same.
Anyway, it's nice (but strange) not to have the car feeling like its going to fall apart when idling in gear
I have probably the most intake side mods (4" intake, polished SHAWD TB, pnp SHAWD Manifold, pnp runners) and I do not have a CEL from the O2 sensors....I did and when i ran seafoam, it cleaned em up and the code never came back....
Yep! Replaced the rear one with a new stock mount. So we went from very little engine movement (yes, the mounts stop almost all of that) and while in gear, the keys would rattle, steering wheel shook like a bastard, glove box wanted to fly off, etc.
Now.. with just that one mount changed, no rattles, perfectly quiet idling in gear. A little more engine movement, but my sanity is happy again.
Now.. with just that one mount changed, no rattles, perfectly quiet idling in gear. A little more engine movement, but my sanity is happy again.
11-12-2012, 01:53 PM
#55
The reason I don't have a CAI is because for the money I spend on it I don't feel that my increased speeds of...ZERO...is worth it. Butt dyno 100%...at least on a fully stock engine and exhaust. Engine eye candy that's it.
Somebody wrote that he got 3 tenths faster on the qmile with one on. Crack cocaine and timed runs don't go together.
Somebody wrote that he got 3 tenths faster on the qmile with one on. Crack cocaine and timed runs don't go together.
11-12-2012, 02:31 PM
#56
All motor
^ Once you do mods like PCDs/Jpipe/exhaust, you will want a CAI. You would probably gain a solid 10-12whp with a CAI after those mods because you would be 'getting out' (exhaust) much more air than you can take in. Thus, once you open up the intake side, you will be able to keep up with the exhaust side. Not only that, but holy sh1t does it sound good.
11-12-2012, 07:31 PM
#57
11-13-2012, 07:30 AM
#58
Pro
11-13-2012, 09:16 AM
#59
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search and you will find couple members (around 2-5, not a big big figure) were having some issues with the pcd's when they were running different motor mounts....
11-13-2012, 06:34 PM
#60
The flex pipe in the jpipe allows for slight movement....but when you have different mounts you are allowing motor movement in 1 direction....heat and vibration/sudden movement when you step on it cracks the metal....
search and you will find couple members (around 2-5, not a big big figure) were having some issues with the pcd's when they were running different motor mounts....
search and you will find couple members (around 2-5, not a big big figure) were having some issues with the pcd's when they were running different motor mounts....
11-14-2012, 10:16 AM
#61
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^^^ as you said, not here to debate, I put my in from what I have read on the forums....if you want more info, you can always search for it
in from what I have read on the forums....if you want more info, you can always search for it
11-14-2012, 07:11 PM
#62
11-25-2012, 04:48 PM
#63
You shouldn't get slow response codes if the defoulers are installed properly. The defoulers are shipped one turn back from protuding into the PCD and pointed up. You can also try enlarging the orifice to the defoulers. People with this issue have been having luck with a 3/8" orifice.
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