Comptech supercharger installation
I'd like to know. Although, I wouldn't mind letting the dealer take over this one, because they will warrantee it.
07-02-2010, 11:22 PM
#4
Drifting
They would. But it will be more than the item itself probably. Atleast thats what David McDavid Acura told me.
Last edited by d-townhakuzo; 07-02-2010 at 11:33 PM.
IF CT's installation guide is accurate.
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07-04-2010, 09:20 PM
#9
The CT instructions are fairly comprehensive, IIRC. Exactly what issues are you having? Be specific and we can try to guide you through it.
BTW, did you mean fuel pump? You're not supposed to be touching the water pump at all.
One other thing to note, if you hook up the ACM and get a CEL for a knock sensor, remove the intercept from the ACM and hook it back up as it was stock. I know that I had the issue as well as many others on the forums. I called Nate over at CT and he was the one that told me to just disconnect it and that there wouldn't be any adverse side effects.
BTW, did you mean fuel pump? You're not supposed to be touching the water pump at all.
One other thing to note, if you hook up the ACM and get a CEL for a knock sensor, remove the intercept from the ACM and hook it back up as it was stock. I know that I had the issue as well as many others on the forums. I called Nate over at CT and he was the one that told me to just disconnect it and that there wouldn't be any adverse side effects.
07-05-2010, 01:27 AM
#10
yes, sorry i meant the fuel pump it gave me a tool to press in the fuel pressure regulator i didnt have a vise so i put it on a jack and jack it up, so when i was jacking it
up it kind of push it in crooked and the tip of the FPR was a little bent anyway i put everything back on and start the car and everything was fine, i was hoping i did right,
up it kind of push it in crooked and the tip of the FPR was a little bent anyway i put everything back on and start the car and everything was fine, i was hoping i did right,
07-05-2010, 01:30 AM
#11
by the way after the installation every think was good except the intake temperature
was high the car wasnt over heating or anything, but everytime the temp goes to 160 or higher it seems to feel sluggish on a take off, but after 3000 rpm or so it pulls pretty good, is there anything i can do to keep it cooler with out causing an arm and leg
was high the car wasnt over heating or anything, but everytime the temp goes to 160 or higher it seems to feel sluggish on a take off, but after 3000 rpm or so it pulls pretty good, is there anything i can do to keep it cooler with out causing an arm and leg
07-05-2010, 09:36 AM
#12
by the way after the installation every think was good except the intake temperature
was high the car wasnt over heating or anything, but everytime the temp goes to 160 or higher it seems to feel sluggish on a take off, but after 3000 rpm or so it pulls pretty good, is there anything i can do to keep it cooler with out causing an arm and leg
was high the car wasnt over heating or anything, but everytime the temp goes to 160 or higher it seems to feel sluggish on a take off, but after 3000 rpm or so it pulls pretty good, is there anything i can do to keep it cooler with out causing an arm and leg
07-05-2010, 12:13 PM
#13
Intermediate
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damn, alway wanna go supercharger but just couldnt do it, do to many reasoned.
@bmeyer u seem to know alot about supercharger. dose u do everythings by yourself or by someone else? cuase am been looking for someone dose this kinda stuff and wht part of Southern MN u r from? am also right around u. would be cool if u can hook me up bro.
@bmeyer u seem to know alot about supercharger. dose u do everythings by yourself or by someone else? cuase am been looking for someone dose this kinda stuff and wht part of Southern MN u r from? am also right around u. would be cool if u can hook me up bro.
07-05-2010, 12:17 PM
#14
Yeah, I do all my own work with the exception of dyno tuning. Though I'll street tune periodically whenever the atmospheric conditions change drastically.
Southern MN is about as specific as I get on the 'net. I prefer to keep some anonymity. One can never be too careful.
Southern MN is about as specific as I get on the 'net. I prefer to keep some anonymity. One can never be too careful.
07-05-2010, 09:52 PM
#19
Scroll down about half way.
07-06-2010, 08:13 AM
#21
Tank is the windshield washer fluid tank. If you look closely, you can see the black supply line coming from the bottom of the tank and going in to the right side of my pump. Blue windshield washer fluid (with NO ADDITIVES) is about 30% methanol and 70% water. Just add 2 bottles of yellow Heet to bring it up to 50/50. You can pull double duty with it - clean your windshield and cool your intake temps with it (amongst other things of course).
The 3.6L is basically a J37 crank in a J32 block with some extra goodies.
The 3.6L is basically a J37 crank in a J32 block with some extra goodies.
07-06-2010, 11:16 PM
#22
thats cool i wouldnt never though of that. did you see a big difference in temperature. also where did you get the harness for the aem fic i look at boom slang but they didnt
have anything for the 05 tl with aem fic. im planing on getting a hbp but comptech said
i need to get it tune. ive been kind of reading up on it and it seems that mostly everybody is using a aem fic.
have anything for the 05 tl with aem fic. im planing on getting a hbp but comptech said
i need to get it tune. ive been kind of reading up on it and it seems that mostly everybody is using a aem fic.
07-07-2010, 03:12 AM
#23
Tank is the windshield washer fluid tank. If you look closely, you can see the black supply line coming from the bottom of the tank and going in to the right side of my pump. Blue windshield washer fluid (with NO ADDITIVES) is about 30% methanol and 70% water. Just add 2 bottles of yellow Heet to bring it up to 50/50. You can pull double duty with it - clean your windshield and cool your intake temps with it (amongst other things of course).
The 3.6L is basically a J37 crank in a J32 block with some extra goodies.
The 3.6L is basically a J37 crank in a J32 block with some extra goodies.
did you custom fab bracket for pump? or piece it together? nice!yours,
mine,
only gripe i have is where you mounted the nozzle. should be further down, closer to the blower (on outlet, not on elbow) for the best possible distribution.
another thing, methenol is fairly inexpensive (6.00) where i live. instead of adding yellow heet to bring to 50/50, you should mix your own with distilled water. 4 gallons of meth makes 8 bottles of 50/50 for only 24.00. usually last me around 4 months or so
07-07-2010, 08:06 AM
#24
Where do you think I got the idea from? That was a custom fab piece of stainless steel. That was sort of rev. 1. I've since moved on to rev. 2 which is a little more stable and didn't require the ghetto monster zip-tie at the bottom.
Agreed on the nozzle placement. It was sort of a last resort because I wasn't about the rip the blower off of it *again*. Now that the blower is coming off shortly, I may change the positioning of it. Just need to come up with a nice way to cap this point in the elbow.
Where do you buy your methanol at? I've tried a few places around home but just get the "deer in headlights" look so I've learned to stop asking. You gotta love rural America.
swampy, I'd get the F/IC even if you don't run the HBP. Your car will thank you for it. To answer your question, I bought the Boomslang extension harness from King Motorsports and sent it and the F/IC lead harness to NVA-AV6 to have him make all the appropriate connections.
Keep in mind that a meth kit only runs when you're making boost so you won't see extremely low temps all the time. Having it spray when you're on the throttle, like I said, will drop the IAT to within ~20 degrees of ambient temperature which does help out with temps during normal driving as well.
One more word of advice, read up on all the talk going on lately regarding knock monitoring/management. It's not all that expensive and can save you a LOT of headaches down the road. Not to mention your car will make more power with something like a J&S Safeguard.
That was a custom fab piece of stainless steel. That was sort of rev. 1. I've since moved on to rev. 2 which is a little more stable and didn't require the ghetto monster zip-tie at the bottom.Agreed on the nozzle placement. It was sort of a last resort because I wasn't about the rip the blower off of it *again*. Now that the blower is coming off shortly, I may change the positioning of it. Just need to come up with a nice way to cap this point in the elbow.
Where do you buy your methanol at? I've tried a few places around home but just get the "deer in headlights" look so I've learned to stop asking. You gotta love rural America.
swampy, I'd get the F/IC even if you don't run the HBP. Your car will thank you for it. To answer your question, I bought the Boomslang extension harness from King Motorsports and sent it and the F/IC lead harness to NVA-AV6 to have him make all the appropriate connections.
Keep in mind that a meth kit only runs when you're making boost so you won't see extremely low temps all the time. Having it spray when you're on the throttle, like I said, will drop the IAT to within ~20 degrees of ambient temperature which does help out with temps during normal driving as well.
One more word of advice, read up on all the talk going on lately regarding knock monitoring/management. It's not all that expensive and can save you a LOT of headaches down the road. Not to mention your car will make more power with something like a J&S Safeguard.
07-07-2010, 04:23 PM
#26
Where do you think I got the idea from? That was a custom fab piece of stainless steel. That was sort of rev. 1. I've since moved on to rev. 2 which is a little more stable and didn't require the ghetto monster zip-tie at the bottom.
Agreed on the nozzle placement. It was sort of a last resort because I wasn't about the rip the blower off of it *again*. Now that the blower is coming off shortly, I may change the positioning of it. Just need to come up with a nice way to cap this point in the elbow.
Where do you buy your methanol at? I've tried a few places around home but just get the "deer in headlights" look so I've learned to stop asking. You gotta love rural America.
swampy, I'd get the F/IC even if you don't run the HBP. Your car will thank you for it. To answer your question, I bought the Boomslang extension harness from King Motorsports and sent it and the F/IC lead harness to NVA-AV6 to have him make all the appropriate connections.
Keep in mind that a meth kit only runs when you're making boost so you won't see extremely low temps all the time. Having it spray when you're on the throttle, like I said, will drop the IAT to within ~20 degrees of ambient temperature which does help out with temps during normal driving as well.
One more word of advice, read up on all the talk going on lately regarding knock monitoring/management. It's not all that expensive and can save you a LOT of headaches down the road. Not to mention your car will make more power with something like a J&S Safeguard.
That was a custom fab piece of stainless steel. That was sort of rev. 1. I've since moved on to rev. 2 which is a little more stable and didn't require the ghetto monster zip-tie at the bottom.Agreed on the nozzle placement. It was sort of a last resort because I wasn't about the rip the blower off of it *again*. Now that the blower is coming off shortly, I may change the positioning of it. Just need to come up with a nice way to cap this point in the elbow.
Where do you buy your methanol at? I've tried a few places around home but just get the "deer in headlights" look so I've learned to stop asking. You gotta love rural America.
swampy, I'd get the F/IC even if you don't run the HBP. Your car will thank you for it. To answer your question, I bought the Boomslang extension harness from King Motorsports and sent it and the F/IC lead harness to NVA-AV6 to have him make all the appropriate connections.
Keep in mind that a meth kit only runs when you're making boost so you won't see extremely low temps all the time. Having it spray when you're on the throttle, like I said, will drop the IAT to within ~20 degrees of ambient temperature which does help out with temps during normal driving as well.
One more word of advice, read up on all the talk going on lately regarding knock monitoring/management. It's not all that expensive and can save you a LOT of headaches down the road. Not to mention your car will make more power with something like a J&S Safeguard.
management with the harness and all the accessories for tuning, so i can have and idea of what
im going to spend.
07-08-2010, 10:15 AM
#29
Safety Car
I was fortunate to find a source (Hyperfuels) close to me that allows me to pick-up from their store. This is a BIG advantage, price wise. If I had to pay shipping, the methanol would cost double with the shipping HAZMAT included in the price. Another perk is they sell VP Racing Fuel (click here) brand, which is considered to be the best methanol. Their main business is selling via the internet however, so feel free to include them as a source.
HYPERFUELS (click here)
And, this is their alternate website. Same company however.
BUYRACEGAS (click here)
I have not tried these sources linked below. I have these links saved as possible sources to try.
Speedway Race Fuels (click here)
World Wide Racing Fuels (click here)
CQ Concept (click here)
DT Chemicals USA (click here)
As a side note - For grins, I checked to see how much the shipping would cost if I had the methanol delivered via UPS. To purchase $30 of methanol, the shipping would had been $45 (just shipping + Hazmat). The total for $30 methanol would be $75.
HYPERFUELS (click here)
And, this is their alternate website. Same company however.
BUYRACEGAS (click here)
I have not tried these sources linked below. I have these links saved as possible sources to try.
Speedway Race Fuels (click here)
World Wide Racing Fuels (click here)
CQ Concept (click here)
DT Chemicals USA (click here)
As a side note - For grins, I checked to see how much the shipping would cost if I had the methanol delivered via UPS. To purchase $30 of methanol, the shipping would had been $45 (just shipping + Hazmat). The total for $30 methanol would be $75.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 07-08-2010 at 10:17 AM.
07-30-2010, 07:53 PM
#34
went to a performance shop and its a well known one around dallas area anyway they told me that they had a promblem, after tuning for a couple
days the ecu would correct everything back to stock.
07-31-2010, 01:43 AM
#35
@swampy
There are 2 primary modes that modern cars (including ours) operate in. Open-loop and closed-loop. Under closed-loop, the car uses feedback from all of the sensors to continuously vary the fuel and timing trims. You can attempt to add all the fuel you want under closed-loop mode, but the ECU will dial it all back until it reaches its ideal A/F ratio.
Under open-loop, you can add as much fuel as you want. The ECU will not attempt to fight it. The catch is that open-loop is only active under near WOT conditions.
The F/IC does have functionality to skew the values from the O2 sensors in order to trick the car into thinking it is running too lean under closed-loop operation (if the car thinks it's lean, it'll attempt to add more fuel in to rectify the lean condition). The unfortunate part is that functionality isn't compatible with our primary O2 sensors. So for the time being, all we can do with ANY aftermarket unit is tune for open-loop conditions.
There are a couple of modules in the works (one by NVA-AV6 and one by me) to adapt the F/IC's O2 skew function to our cars, but they're not quite ready for prime-time yet. Once all of the bugs are worked out, we should have a pretty decent setup with the F/IC.
There are 2 primary modes that modern cars (including ours) operate in. Open-loop and closed-loop. Under closed-loop, the car uses feedback from all of the sensors to continuously vary the fuel and timing trims. You can attempt to add all the fuel you want under closed-loop mode, but the ECU will dial it all back until it reaches its ideal A/F ratio.
Under open-loop, you can add as much fuel as you want. The ECU will not attempt to fight it. The catch is that open-loop is only active under near WOT conditions.
The F/IC does have functionality to skew the values from the O2 sensors in order to trick the car into thinking it is running too lean under closed-loop operation (if the car thinks it's lean, it'll attempt to add more fuel in to rectify the lean condition). The unfortunate part is that functionality isn't compatible with our primary O2 sensors. So for the time being, all we can do with ANY aftermarket unit is tune for open-loop conditions.
There are a couple of modules in the works (one by NVA-AV6 and one by me) to adapt the F/IC's O2 skew function to our cars, but they're not quite ready for prime-time yet. Once all of the bugs are worked out, we should have a pretty decent setup with the F/IC.
07-31-2010, 03:01 AM
#36
@swampy
There are 2 primary modes that modern cars (including ours) operate in. Open-loop and closed-loop. Under closed-loop, the car uses feedback from all of the sensors to continuously vary the fuel and timing trims. You can attempt to add all the fuel you want under closed-loop mode, but the ECU will dial it all back until it reaches its ideal A/F ratio.
Under open-loop, you can add as much fuel as you want. The ECU will not attempt to fight it. The catch is that open-loop is only active under near WOT conditions.
The F/IC does have functionality to skew the values from the O2 sensors in order to trick the car into thinking it is running too lean under closed-loop operation (if the car thinks it's lean, it'll attempt to add more fuel in to rectify the lean condition). The unfortunate part is that functionality isn't compatible with our primary O2 sensors. So for the time being, all we can do with ANY aftermarket unit is tune for open-loop conditions.
There are a couple of modules in the works (one by NVA-AV6 and one by me) to adapt the F/IC's O2 skew function to our cars, but they're not quite ready for prime-time yet. Once all of the bugs are worked out, we should have a pretty decent setup with the F/IC.
There are 2 primary modes that modern cars (including ours) operate in. Open-loop and closed-loop. Under closed-loop, the car uses feedback from all of the sensors to continuously vary the fuel and timing trims. You can attempt to add all the fuel you want under closed-loop mode, but the ECU will dial it all back until it reaches its ideal A/F ratio.
Under open-loop, you can add as much fuel as you want. The ECU will not attempt to fight it. The catch is that open-loop is only active under near WOT conditions.
The F/IC does have functionality to skew the values from the O2 sensors in order to trick the car into thinking it is running too lean under closed-loop operation (if the car thinks it's lean, it'll attempt to add more fuel in to rectify the lean condition). The unfortunate part is that functionality isn't compatible with our primary O2 sensors. So for the time being, all we can do with ANY aftermarket unit is tune for open-loop conditions.
There are a couple of modules in the works (one by NVA-AV6 and one by me) to adapt the F/IC's O2 skew function to our cars, but they're not quite ready for prime-time yet. Once all of the bugs are worked out, we should have a pretty decent setup with the F/IC.
they were talking about $750 for tuning the car. and by the way i just got
my aem water meth kit in yesterday was wondering how exactly did
get the low fluid level out of the oringinal tank and installing it in the
washer fluid tank. any help would be really good, i dont want to just
yank the it of the tank.
08-01-2010, 01:42 AM
#37
The fluid level sensor just pulls out. Check my dyno thread for pics to see where I mounted the sensor.
The spout on the bottom, however, has to be unscrewed. It takes a bit of finesse because there is a nut on the inside of the tank. When you add it to your windshield washer fluid tank, you'll want to find an O-ring that you can put around the threads on the outside of the tank to ensure a tight seal.
BTW, $750 seems pretty steep for tuning. Last time I had my car tuned, it was in the neighborhood of $200.
The spout on the bottom, however, has to be unscrewed. It takes a bit of finesse because there is a nut on the inside of the tank. When you add it to your windshield washer fluid tank, you'll want to find an O-ring that you can put around the threads on the outside of the tank to ensure a tight seal.
BTW, $750 seems pretty steep for tuning. Last time I had my car tuned, it was in the neighborhood of $200.
Last edited by bmeyer; 08-01-2010 at 01:44 AM.
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