wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

hey what's up. i'm semi-handy with tools. the problem is, i've never worked on a car but i've decided i can at least bolt on a ct rsb by myself. how hard can this be? LOL. i have access to a standard wrench set, but i'm wondering, do i need the wrench set with the long vertical extender? are the bolts sitting deep in the wheel well area where i can't reach my hand in there and get leverage with the standard wrench? i'm planning on jacking up the rear driver side wheel and taking just that one off.

also, should i get some lock-tite from the hardware store (if so, what color)? tia.

ttliang

you need about a 26" jack to clear normal jack stands you see in stores (you find shorter one you are a better man). once it's on the stands, take off one tire. the rest is ez. a hex wrench, an open end adjustable, a torque wrench, WD40 and screw driver should do the job.

trancemission

screwdriver??? no idea what you would need that for...

first off, you dont need lock-tite IMO. That will make it harder for you if you ever need to remove it. Just tighten the bolts and nuts and youll be fine. All you need is a socket set. The nuts on each end of the RSB are 14mm and the bolts that hold the bushings are 12mm if my memory serves me correctly. If its been on there a while you will need some WD-40 or penetrating oil for sure. Ive done three installs already for our Dallas members. Its a very easy install.

I do agree with ttliang with the tire removal. I didnt do it on any installs and always wondered why. I can see that making it alot easier..

ttliang

kill oneself just in case you got pinned down under the car and nobody's around lol...no you don't need a screwdriver. why did i put that in there????

brianp6621

I backed the car up on car ramps and didn't remove anything other than the RSB itself.

You will need a metric socket set and a metrix hex set. You will need the hex wrench to remove the RSB links to the suspension. It is only 6 bolts total (2 on each of the 2 brackets holding the RSB to the frame and 1 at each end link) The bolts are very eash to access from underneath so no need for a extension.

The hardest part is snaking the RSB around to get the old one out and the new one in (maybe this is why taking off the wheels is easier) but for me, it took less time to snake the RSB around than it would have to jack up and remove a wheel.

Just did this last weekend so it is fresh in my mind.

pufferfish74

i just did it yesterday! I used a 14mm ratcheting box wrench and unknown size allen wrench to unbolt the link to the sway bar. an 11mm socket with a 4" extension on a ratchet took care of the 4 bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame. i fished it out without removing the exhaust or a wheel. It took longer to jack it up (no center place to lift the back end from makes it hard) than to swap the RSB out!

best investment yet! front end push seems to have disappeared entirely! can't wait to see how well it works in the AX race in 2 weeks! wish i had it for this past weekend's race.

brianp6621

FYI, there is a place to jack up the TL from the center, in the rear. It was just linked in a thread I read earlier today. I will try and find it.

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

i took a look under the car last night just to get an idea of how to do this install. i think i might try and do this ghetto style...drive the rear of the car up to a curb or ledge and just unscrew everything to do the swap!

brianp6621

My suggestion would be at least invest $30-40 in a pair or ramps that you can use for oil changes and other mods, but to each his own.

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

haha, i just found out that my coworker friend has ramps in his closet and i borrowed a wrench set from the property manager (also another friend at work). i'm gonna put this sucker on tonight.

by the way...i installed the ashtray myself. i don't smoke in the car but i figured if i'm on a long trip in the future, i might sneak one in with the windows rolled down.

lembowski

iTrader: (1)

Isn't the ashtray for our vehicle a removable cup that goes in the holder?

Kracker

I would recommend using loc-tight on those end-links. If you start to get a clunking noise... Thats it. I though I read somewhere that you should drive it around and then tighten them again.

I dunno. I still kinda pissed that I wasted 5 hours of my life looking for this. The end bolts need to be tight.

King of Pain

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

yea, i got that sucker on. took 1.5 hours with my friend and ramps. those end bolts are a bitch to take off and tighten. i'm gonna go about a week i guess and re-tighten and check them. for anyone that is thinking about doing this install, it's really simple but you do need to jack/ramp the car up.

the hardest parts for me were unbolting the end bolts and then it took me about 1000 hours to figure out that you have to use an allen wrench in the side of the end bolts to hold it there while you unscrew it. i really didn't have much of a problem snaking the bars in and out of the undercarriage.

if anyone needs help with the ashtray install you can find the installation instructions in the 3g garage!!

next up...blitzsafe ipod connector. i think i am developing a migraine just looking at instructions for taking the console apart.

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

by the way...i was reading one post where the dude said he snaked the bar through and realized he put it in backwards. is it possible to install this thing backwards??

brianp6621

Hey, that't not nice, that was me.

You can't install it backwards (more like upsidedown actually) because nothing will line up. You'll realize it VERY quickly.

whatjones911

Around what torque specs should the nuts be torque to? Around 30ft.lb? And also i dont think lock-tite is needed since it wasnt used on the stock rsb

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

the instructions don't say what torque the bolts should be set to. if u do the install, you'll see when you remove them that the 4 bolts on the undercarriage aren't really all too tight (cus this part doesn't move) and the 2 that are on the end links where it connects to the movable arm are tight as hell.

just for reference, i read somewhere on this site that as tight as you can get it with one hand is approximately 29ft/lb's torque. fresh off doing the installation, i would just say tighten the 4 undercarriage bolts (but u don't need to overtighten), and make sure that the 2 end link bolts are really really tight so they don't fall off. wd-40 really helps just for the 2 end links removal and putting them back on. i just made sure to wipe off the excess after i bolted them back and i'm gonna recheck it soon to make sure they didn't loosen.

i think when you look at the 2 end links there are 4 threads sticking out of the bolt screw with the stock swaybar, and there are 3 when you put the ct rsb on cus it's thicker.

Kracker

In my book is says 29 ft lbs for the upper, and 28 for the lower (attached to the sway bar)

BUT there is a Note: Use a new self-locking nut on reassembly.

Hence my use of loc tight.

And then the step 9) "After 5 minutes of driving, tighten the self-locking nut again to the specified torque value."

FYI, the sway bar bushing holders are torqued to 16 ft-lbs. (guess i shouldnt have gone all psyco on them today...)

whatjones911

What book is this? the service manuel?

Kracker

Yeah, sorry. Thats the 04-05 Service Manual

Section 18
Pages 39 & 40