Clutch Delay Valve Delete - LuK Slave Cylinder
05-03-2018, 09:23 PM
#41
How did you guys bust the Brakeline loose, when you turn it, it also turns the nut the Brake line is threaded into.... So what did you use to hold it steady with limited room but break the Brake line loose?
I don't even have a wrench big enough to fit it, so will need to pick that up this week as well, anyone knows what size it is?
I don't even have a wrench big enough to fit it, so will need to pick that up this week as well, anyone knows what size it is?
I have the unfortunate luxury of not having the radiator (in the process of pulling the motor) but assuming you still have the rad in and once you acquire a 17mm box wrench and (brake) line wrench, if I were you I'd remove the battery/tray for your arms, as well as anything else that's hindering your hand/arm/wrench mobility. Unbolt the slave from the block so you can pull it away from the block to swing the wrenches a bit more, keep the 17mm stationary while you loosen with the line wrench since it's MUCH shorter.
05-04-2018, 07:06 AM
#42
Intermediate
The big nut is a 17mm.
I have the unfortunate luxury of not having the radiator (in the process of pulling the motor) but assuming you still have the rad in and once you acquire a 17mm box wrench and (brake) line wrench, if I were you I'd remove the battery/tray for your arms, as well as anything else that's hindering your hand/arm/wrench mobility. Unbolt the slave from the block so you can pull it away from the block to swing the wrenches a bit more, keep the 17mm stationary while you loosen with the line wrench since it's MUCH shorter.
I have the unfortunate luxury of not having the radiator (in the process of pulling the motor) but assuming you still have the rad in and once you acquire a 17mm box wrench and (brake) line wrench, if I were you I'd remove the battery/tray for your arms, as well as anything else that's hindering your hand/arm/wrench mobility. Unbolt the slave from the block so you can pull it away from the block to swing the wrenches a bit more, keep the 17mm stationary while you loosen with the line wrench since it's MUCH shorter.
Got the 17 mm, yesterday, and a small set of open-ended ratchet wrenches came in last night that I ordered. So besides limited space, I should have everything I need.
The brake line is not something I want to bend as it will pinch the line then I have to run a whole new line from master cylinder to slave. So I will be careful when pulling it up a bit for more room.
I wonder though, is there any point to replacing the brake line use for the clutch system with stainless steel braided line? Or no?
06-18-2018, 09:27 PM
#43
Is there any difference between the LuK slave cylinder and the OEM one besides the price ($60 vs $80)? I need a new slave cylinder anyways because mine's leaking and I figured I'd attempt the CDV delete.
06-19-2018, 01:09 AM
#44
doing on a new slave makes it easier. Straight automotive pick to pry out the C clip. No dremel needed. Popped out the cap from the other side with a skinny Allen key.
06-19-2018, 01:11 AM
#45
We should be addressing the these junky OEM clutch master cylinders that make shifting even worse then the delay valve.
Ktune seems to have a nice one for us.
the master for our 04-08 TL is the same as the first 4 years of the RSX and TSX.
Ktune seems to have a nice one for us.
the master for our 04-08 TL is the same as the first 4 years of the RSX and TSX.
06-19-2018, 12:01 PM
#46
Huh that's interesting... According to Ktuned, the CMC has a delay mechanism too. Wonder if you can remove or bypass it like the slave cylinder without spending $100 on a Ktuned CMC...
06-19-2018, 12:30 PM
#47
I figure with the mileage these stock units have it would be wise to replace with a fresh new master, the Ktune is still cheaper then the OEM unit if you get it without the extra braided line. It seems like three small bolts hold the diaphragm together so I'll look into it when the old one comes out.
the master delay system is talked about in the technical literature as well on hondanews.com
06-20-2018, 07:29 AM
#48
Intermediate
FYI LUK SLAVE is OEM, but not the only one. And yes there are some shotty OEM products out there but be careful.
If you get the LUK for cheap, the fix is super easy. I made a video if you're interested
"Removal of the check valve, from a LUK Slave cylinder for Acura TL"
06-20-2018, 11:33 AM
#49
FYI LUK SLAVE is OEM, but not the only one. And yes there are some shotty OEM products out there but be careful.
If you get the LUK for cheap, the fix is super easy. I made a video if you're interested
"Removal of the check valve, from a LUK Slave cylinder for Acura TL"
https://youtu.be/EIT-qYXF5LE
If you get the LUK for cheap, the fix is super easy. I made a video if you're interested
"Removal of the check valve, from a LUK Slave cylinder for Acura TL"
https://youtu.be/EIT-qYXF5LE
They could have used more then one company to manufacture these but I doubt it. Either way you quoted me talking about the master cylinders not the slaves.
So again I wouldn't state that Luk is OEM since for this product it is by definition not the original equipment manufacturer but it does hope to copy it and I presume change the delay valve style to save money.
Just for your information
06-20-2018, 12:39 PM
#50
For ease of searching and redundancy I am posting this information I found from some other threads in this one as well as the original delay valve delete thread
looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used that is just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used that is just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
06-23-2018, 01:49 PM
#52
For ease of searching and redundancy I am posting this information I found from some other threads in this one as well as the original delay valve delete thread
looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used that is just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used that is just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
it is indeed a Nissin part! $50shipped for a new one CMC!
06-23-2018, 04:24 PM
#53
07-22-2018, 04:11 PM
#54
Intermediate
Wow, the clutch pedal feels so much better, and engagement is actually pretty smooth without the check valve. Even though that is what the check valve was intended for, it seems a whole lot better. Shifting is like butter, and 1st gear clutch engagement is less drawn out. Def worth the quick fix, it took 30 minutes to install but I am OCD about everything being perfect. The only time-consuming part is bleeding the system but the crap that was bleeding out, looked like a poop milkshake it was bad.... I don't think anyone changed it since it rolled out of the factory. Here is a vid I did, for others but I figured I would share it here too.
The following 2 users liked this post by SerpentX:
90foxnotch (07-23-2018),
srg818 (07-25-2018)
07-22-2018, 04:13 PM
#55
Intermediate
P.S. Forgive the Youtube-ness aspect, I am trying to build my channel. I am a computer guy, and I do a lot of Tech related videos like Crypto mining, Overclock, Benchmarking and hardware mods. But I am a car guy as well, So I apologize in advance...
The following 2 users liked this post by rockstar143:
Curious3GTL (07-31-2021),
horseshoez (07-30-2021)
08-03-2021, 08:48 AM
#59
Alright boys...
done...thanks to this thread and a few of you for pointing out which part of the assembly was the checkvalve on the LUK.
I recall last time around I was like WTF is this...put it back together and ordered open box OEM from Amazon.
I tried to scrape and use a blade and kept snapping them...finally gave up and went back to my tried and true method of cutting a groove.
Easy peasy.
This time around I depressed the plunger on the slave all the way and used a syringe with brake fluid to fill it up as I released it to ensure the
cavity was full (that's the hardest part of bleeding, getting the trapped bubbles out of the slave itself since they get caught in crevices. Bench filled
and bled...jiggled and pushed bubbles out, refilled etc...bam, back in car...old fluid at reservoir was nice...fluid AT failed slave looked like aforementioned
doodoo butter. Tasted just as bad too.
Bled a bit to get that nasty shit out (with my mityvac) and for the first time ever doing this pedal was firm and without air in the lines from the first time I pressed it. Bench fill
these slaves!
done...thanks to this thread and a few of you for pointing out which part of the assembly was the checkvalve on the LUK.
I recall last time around I was like WTF is this...put it back together and ordered open box OEM from Amazon.
I tried to scrape and use a blade and kept snapping them...finally gave up and went back to my tried and true method of cutting a groove.
Easy peasy.
This time around I depressed the plunger on the slave all the way and used a syringe with brake fluid to fill it up as I released it to ensure the
cavity was full (that's the hardest part of bleeding, getting the trapped bubbles out of the slave itself since they get caught in crevices. Bench filled
and bled...jiggled and pushed bubbles out, refilled etc...bam, back in car...old fluid at reservoir was nice...fluid AT failed slave looked like aforementioned
doodoo butter. Tasted just as bad too.
Bled a bit to get that nasty shit out (with my mityvac) and for the first time ever doing this pedal was firm and without air in the lines from the first time I pressed it. Bench fill
these slaves!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Skier4lyfe303
4G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
24
09-04-2016 09:28 PM
Matthewyu
Car Parts for Sale
10
07-15-2012 06:22 PM
bigg_86
3G TL Problems & Fixes
32
01-25-2012 01:57 PM
Ron A
3G TL (2004-2008)
0
07-30-2008 07:17 PM