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Andys kits are awesome, I just feel I'm too old to be putting so much money and time into a 10 year old car. The power and whine of the CT will make me happy.
I will just buy a newer car with a large engine. Salvaged title no doubt! I love paying cash at 2/3s the cost. I'll garage queen the car when that happens.
It's not so much worrying about your belts and a water pump when boosting your car. Make sure your cylinders are running decent compression and do a leak down test for due diligence lol.
Not many people have fared well on Stock Internals with the MP62 blower
The compression was tested a little over and is solid. I wonder if many of the people with mp62s drive the hell outta their cars once they install the S/C because they suddenly feel like Brian Earl Spielner?
I can see some of those guys pushing and pushing the engine and not having a good tune, heat reducing measures, ect in place to keep everything more stable.
I drive very modestly and rarely push the car. Even after boost I'll continue to drive as usual. I think I can do another 80-100k with S/C from the current 150k.
The compression was tested a little over and is solid. I wonder if many of the people with mp62s drive the hell outta their cars once they install the S/C because they suddenly feel like Brian Earl Spielner?
I had my CL-S6 S/C'er installed in 2005 at 45K, that's 5K before the warranty on the car expired at 50K. I did not drive like this Brian Earl Spielner character, although I did have similar blonde hair with a 'widow's brow'; but, not as bad as Eddie Munster, lol. I drive the car hard in the heat of Florida and it, the J32, has not failed me yet. Now when I say 'hard' that usually means reasonable 'fun' accelerating around sweeping on ramps 'boosting' into merging highway traffic et. al. Usually, to get out in front of the hellacious 'rock pit trucks' spewing their lime rock contents all over the road and onto the front of ones car. 'Hard' does not mean 'traffic light to traffic light' hot shoeing next to some nimrod civic or WRX constantly revving at you in traffic, with a subsequent 'flyby', because one rolls the window up to further enjoy/hear his Led Zeppelin, lol.
Even the J32 should 'give up the ghost', I'm not worried in the least. Why? Because I then would install a J35A3 out of an '02 MDX and have an even grander ole time.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
I can see some of those guys pushing and pushing the engine and not having a good tune, heat reducing measures, ect in place to keep everything more stable.
I've been running the Comptech EMS with a HBP all of this time and have not had an issue. I keep the fuel pressure higher and of course run 'top tier' 93 octane, always, with an occasional drink of VP fuels 100 Street Blaze. That stuff is a kick in the pants, but expensive.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
I drive very modestly and rarely push the car. Even after boost I'll continue to drive as usual. I think I can do another 80-100k with S/C from the current 150k.
More often than not, I do to. It has been a recipe that has served me well over all of these years. There are those who would say that that is 'borriiing'. No 'f*cks' given. To say the least, I have received a complete return on all of the money I've invested into the mods I've installed on this, IMHO, wonderful car since I drove it off the lot in Aug 2002. If you drive as you say above, then there is no reason why you should not be able to '...do another 80-100 with S/C....' Of course, that is just my opinion.
I had my CL-S6 S/C'er installed in 2005 at 45K, that's 5K before the warranty on the car expired at 50K. I did not drive like this Brian Earl Spielner character, although I did have similar blonde hair with a 'widow's brow'; but, not as bad as Eddie Munster, lol. I drive the car hard in the heat of Florida and it, the J32, has not failed me yet. Now when I say 'hard' that usually means reasonable 'fun' accelerating around sweeping on ramps 'boosting' into merging highway traffic et. al. Usually, to get out in front of the hellacious 'rock pit trucks' spewing their lime rock contents all over the road and onto the front of ones car. 'Hard' does not mean 'traffic light to traffic light' hot shoeing next to some nimrod civic or WRX constantly revving at you in traffic, with a subsequent 'flyby', because one rolls the window up to further enjoy/hear his Led Zeppelin, lol.
Even the J32 should 'give up the ghost', I'm not worried in the least. Why? Because I then would install a J35A3 out of an '02 MDX and have an even grander ole time.
I've been running the Comptech EMS with a HBP all of this time and have not had an issue. I keep the fuel pressure higher and of course run 'top tier' 93 octane, always, with an occasional drink of VP fuels 100 Street Blaze. That stuff is a kick in the pants, but expensive.
More often than not, I do to. It has been a recipe that has served me well over all of these years. There are those who would say that that is 'borriiing'. No 'f*cks' given. To say the least, I have received a complete return on all of the money I've invested into the mods I've installed on this, IMHO, wonderful car since I drove it off the lot in Aug 2002. If you drive as you say above, then there is no reason why you should not be able to '...do another 80-100 with S/C....' Of course, that is just my opinion.
Thanks Zeta, how many miles have you put onto your TL?
I think with a solid tune, tranny cooler, and W/M, 93 octane fuel, proper maintenance(I enjoy doing it a it early*minute man*)((besides the TB n WP)); should love me long time.
I did a few months after having the blower installed. It was a humid/hot summer day, somewhere in north Palm Beach county, and all I remember is that I was disappointed at the results. IIRC, the average was like 265-275 to the wheels on a Mustang dyno. At the time though, I did still have on the restrictive stock cat and stock cat back exhaust all the way to the mufflers. I'm thinking that that had a significant influence on the results at that time. The car sounded hella good as it screamed to redline though, while I cringed at the sound, lol. I think it was a year later when I finally sprung for the CT B-Pipe. That helped open it up a bit, which was noticable in sound and on the butt dyno; however, it was only when I put XLR8's first Hi-Flo cat on, back in 2009 I believe, that I really felt a difference. Then a year or two later I picked up a sweet deal on two CT axle backs from brian6speed to give that 'little bit' more over the failing stock mufflers. Have not done any thing performance wise since. If I ever had it dyno'd again it would only be during/after installing a 'stand alone'; otherwise, I just wouldn't risk it at this point in the cars life.
Originally Posted by Saving4aTL
Thanks Zeta, how many miles have you put onto your TL?
I've put 157+K so far, blower was completely rebuilt with around 105K, Dec2015.
Acura CL:
I did a few months after having the blower installed. It was a humid/hot summer day, somewhere in north Palm Beach county, and all I remember is that I was disappointed at the results. IIRC, the average was like 265-275 to the wheels on a Mustang dyno. At the time though, I did still have on the restrictive stock cat and stock cat back exhaust all the way to the mufflers. I'm thinking that that had a significant influence on the results at that time. The car sounded hella good as it screamed to redline though, while I cringed at the sound, lol. I think it was a year later when I finally sprung for the CT B-Pipe. That helped open it up a bit, which was noticable in sound and on the butt dyno; however, it was only when I put XLR8's first Hi-Flo cat on, back in 2009 I believe, that I really felt a difference. Then a year or two later I picked up a sweet deal on two CT axle backs from brian6speed to give that 'little bit' more over the failing stock mufflers. Have not done any thing performance wise since. If I ever had it dyno'd again it would only be during/after installing a 'stand alone'; otherwise, I just wouldn't risk it at this point in the cars life.
I've put 157+K so far, blower was completely rebuilt with around 105K, Dec2015.
Acura CL:
The compression was tested a little over and is solid. I wonder if many of the people with mp62s drive the hell outta their cars once they install the S/C because they suddenly feel like Brian Earl Spielner?
I can see some of those guys pushing and pushing the engine and not having a good tune, heat reducing measures, ect in place to keep everything more stable.
I drive very modestly and rarely push the car. Even after boost I'll continue to drive as usual. I think I can do another 80-100k with S/C from the current 150k.
I did a few months after having the blower installed. It was a humid/hot summer day, somewhere in north Palm Beach county, and all I remember is that I was disappointed at the results. IIRC, the average was like 265-275 to the wheels on a Mustang dyno. At the time though, I did still have on the restrictive stock cat and stock cat back exhaust all the way to the mufflers. I'm thinking that that had a significant influence on the results at that time. The car sounded hella good as it screamed to redline though, while I cringed at the sound, lol. I think it was a year later when I finally sprung for the CT B-Pipe. That helped open it up a bit, which was noticable in sound and on the butt dyno; however, it was only when I put XLR8's first Hi-Flo cat on, back in 2009 I believe, that I really felt a difference. Then a year or two later I picked up a sweet deal on two CT axle backs from brian6speed to give that 'little bit' more over the failing stock mufflers. Have not done any thing performance wise since. If I ever had it dyno'd again it would only be during/after installing a 'stand alone'; otherwise, I just wouldn't risk it at this point in the cars life.
Yea definitely not worth it again unless your getting it 100% dialed in with an AEM setup. Bet the car still puts a smile on your face..
I drive the same way and probably even more so. It's an awesome feeling to hear the comptech supercharger whine. It's pretty loud and even more so with an intake setup. Sounds like a jet taking off on the highway (as my wife would explain it) and grabs people's attention. I don't need to go WOT to feel the power, in fact you feel it in every gear no matter how much you lay into the gas pedal. I do have a complete exhaust setup which is a MUST when going boosted. I don't have precat deletes (They sound like shit IMO) I have high flow precats with ceramic coating. Followed by the ATLP J-pipe, a high flow 3rd cat (Yes for inspection reasons, they still check for a 3rd cat) followed by the comptech exhaust system. On the intake side I have port and polished intake runners and intake manifold with the custom CAI. Next move would be the heads but again, i'm not chasing numbers so at this point the performance part of my car is done.
I've been boosted for 4 going on 5 years now. My engine runs very well and I haven't had an issue that was caused by the blower. Like I said before and trust me on this... When you go boost, on a vehicle that is not meant for boost, money no longer becomes an issue. I say this because, most people are going to spend 5-12K on average to become boosted. The higher end of it is from doing all the supporting mods with tuning. To make sure your TL is ready for boost, like OsK said, make sure for a fact you have no issues with your motor and you are up to date with maintenance. More important to have the motor mounts inspected, or the lower control arms inspected or to make sure the timing belt was done with the valve adjustment. All that money into being boosted, could have been used to bring your TL up to speed on service needed.
If everything is 100% okay, I would still recommend sending out the blower for an inspection. You don't know if it was ever dropped, you don't know what's been done to it. Why go through the entire install, just to find out the blower needs work. As J said, the blower is suppose to be dialed in, however, not the case if it was dropped on the pulley side or just dropped in general. Welcome to the game of going boost. There is no real way of cutting corners here. You go in and you do it right. If you're on a very tight budge, then forget about it. I rather be honest with you. Most guys don't understand what it takes to go from N/A to boost. It's not just slapping on a blower and calling it a day. You still need the parts list from Comptech as well. See how much that will cost and if they have all the pieces. This is why I don't suggest buying used kits and def. not incomplete kits.
lol I was going to buy an Acura Integra, but then quickly realized I'd want to turbo it. The Prizm is a 5MT, 1.8L DOHC. Preppy for a lil car. I once had one for 5 years before I sold it at 225k. Never once gave me trouble
- Type-S OEM Rear bumper(Used) is waiting to be picked up at Greyhound on Friday. (Installing Saturday - already painted ASM)
- Marcus at Heeloe is putting all the CT accesory parts the website for so I can purchase them this friday. (Rad. hose, Alt. Mount, Tranny mount, ect.)
Anyone have any pieces from I may need for my build?
Specially selected dealerships offered Comptech performance items as an add-on and or can be installed. The dealership I had worked for, did offer this. They still had Comptech parts in their inventory. This was a short period run since most customers weren't dropping 6K for the blower and another 1K for installation. Perhaps out of all the 3rd gen TL's and 1st gen TSX, maybe 2% actually bought their vehicles new with comtech performance items added. True story, my TL was actually bought from a dealership (In NJ) that offered the Comptech performance parts. The original owner was ready to pull the trigger on a blower but never did. I'm friends with the guy on Facebook and he's still shocked I have the car still and it's in flawless condition (plus boosted). He offered to buy it back a few times, but I keep saying No
No No, not today. Lmao.
Seriously though,
You can google when Comptech teamed up with Acura (Some dealerships) and what they offered.
Just looked up the HFPC order from Heeltoe and they will be delivered this Tuesday. I would love to install them without any research but I'd like to get a ceramic coating on them. It will cost approximately $250 for the pair.
Is there a better method to reduce engine compartment heat than ceramic?
Just looked up the HFPC order from Heeltoe and they will be delivered this Tuesday. I would love to install them without any research but I'd like to get a ceramic coating on them. It will cost approximately $250 for the pair.
Is there a better method to reduce engine compartment heat than ceramic?
I paid for the ceramic coated high flow pre-cats. With the comptech blower installed + Summer heat = sure way of having things very toasty under the hood. So unless you know what would work, I'd just pay for them to get some professionally. Like I said, for the game of Boost you need to go into it with the idea of no short cuts and money doesn't become an issue. You can't take on this project if you're not thinking about at least 5K spent. I hope for your sake, you don't spend a ton of money because you're going to be disappointed with the end result. This goes back to the money vs performance aspect of this story called the 3rd gen TL.
You should have bought the hfpc direct from rv6, they offer 2 ceramic coating options. You could also rap the exhaust in that fabric exhaust wrap stuff. Personally I like the ceramic coating better. When I purchased my PCD's I had Richie coat them black for only $100ish
You should have bought the hfpc direct from rv6, they offer 2 ceramic coating options. You could also rap the exhaust in that fabric exhaust wrap stuff. Personally I like the ceramic coating better. When I purchased my PCD's I had Richie coat them black for only $100ish
I try to give heeltoe business when I can because they are local. I'm prepared to not take shortscuts, get it done correctly. Even if it wont be a massive power gain.
I thought that Rv6 stopped the coating option.. illgo check it.
Edit: Checked it at RV6, They don't offer it any longer unless you call it in or something. I also prefer to get ceramic coating because it holds back more heat(from my minimalist reseagrch style).
Heeltoe sold me my HFPC for nearly $100 less than directly through RV6.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 01-14-2018 at 10:06 AM.
I also found ordering the HFPCs from heeltoe was a bit cheaper than directly from rv6. Didn't know rv6 would still ceramic coat them though or I probably would have got them to. I plan on wrapping them in the heat wrap anyways.
I also found ordering the HFPCs from heeltoe was a bit cheaper than directly from rv6. Didn't know rv6 would still ceramic coat them though or I probably would have got them to. I plan on wrapping them in the heat wrap anyways.
I read that wrapping them in heat wrap increases the likelihood of them cracking(not sure why). Though RV6 claims its safe. Anyone has further input on this?
01-09-2018, 02:09 PM
I'm thinking that that had a significant influence on the results at that time. 
The car sounded hella good as it screamed to redline though, while I cringed at the sound, lol. I think it was a year later when I finally sprung for the CT B-Pipe. That helped open it up a bit, which was noticable in sound and on the butt dyno; however, it was only when I put XLR8's first Hi-Flo cat on, back in 2009 I believe, that I really felt a difference. Then a year or two later I picked up a sweet deal on two CT axle backs from brian6speed to give that 'little bit' more over the failing stock mufflers. Have not done any thing performance wise since. If I ever had it dyno'd again it would only be during/after installing a 'stand alone'; otherwise, I just wouldn't risk it at this point in the cars life. 
