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Went back to the dealership where we camped out the night before purchasing the car. Been along way since it left here. Love seeing the yellow fuel handles! The Seattle E85 station had 89% E85!
I was going to order BC Racing dampers and insane shafts this week, but dealing with these heat issues takes priority.
My wife is asking if I could make the Comptech TL run on E85. She is impressed with the results on the Rotrex TL.
Due to the Comptech having no continuous cooling system, E85 would get rid of the unburnt fuel smell(currently running not lean).
English will tune it to perfection, and the fuel will continuously keep the engine cooler by 104F.
For this project, I would need somewhere in the ballpark of 550cc injectors? E85 compatible fuel pump. The stock fuel lines should be good for 550whp(ish) so they can be stock?
Would I need to upgrade any other components of the fuel system?
550cc should be alright on the 6 speed. I have 1300cc and a DW400 pump on stock lines & rails. Was at 73% duty. still had room for more. Also to reply to your temp question while dyno tuning. Elevation in Carlisle is 480ft above sea. Where I live, it's 23ft above. Was 65 degrees with 88% humidity. Was a rainy day that Wednesday.
550cc should be alright on the 6 speed. I have 1300cc and a DW400 pump on stock lines & rails. Was at 73% duty. still had room for more. Also to reply to your temp question while dyno tuning. Elevation in Carlisle is 480ft above sea. Where I live, it's 23ft above. Was 65 degrees with 88% humidity. Was a rainy day that Wednesday.
I was curious to see if altitude had any bearing on my tuning results. The issue was nonesense taken care of.
I installed 410cc RDX injectors and a DW65C(250lph) fuel pump.
The fuel pump reads that it’s E85 compatible. So the focus is injectors.
Running about 270whp on the Comptech atm.
550cc injectors should work fine, but I’m wondering if I can use the 410cc right injectors I already have installed..
Worst case scenario, English will tune the case to the max injector duty cycle..
Would the 410cc RDX Injectors work for a J32 5psi Supercharged on E85?
Fuel Injector Clinic calculator states 556cc is needed. That figure was rounded off to 600cc. This way I can get more out of when it get a modification in the future.
Is it more cost effective to buy 550cc injectors?
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 06-17-2019 at 07:45 PM.
Would the 410cc RDX Injectors work for a J32 5psi Supercharged on E85?
Fuel Injector Clinic calculator states 556cc is needed. That figure was rounded off to 600cc. This way I can get more out of when it get a modification in the future.
Is it more cost effective to buy 550cc injectors?
Rdx injectors would be fine if you could turn up the pressure. You cannot on the comptech TL unless you have a return style on that one too. If anything get the 550cc
Rdx injectors would be fine if you could turn up the pressure. You cannot on the comptech TL unless you have a return style on that one too. If anything get the 550cc
Thanks man, got Bosch 550cc injectors for the Audi 2.7TT.
Return line would be overkill for this level of power me thinks.
Comptech TL scheduled for E85 tuning at English Racing on June 9.
Due to the cats being removed and not dynotuned, you get gassed out if you don’t turn the recirculation on at stop lights.
Also due to my breather tubes being directly underneath the vent intake.
E85 and a dynotune takes away the smell(least it did on the Rotrex TL).
I filed down the Comptech TL starter wire bolt to make way for the supercharger.
Dont have a way to reattach it. I used a large solder gun but the solder was soft and the wire undid from the starter.
After it hardens I have liquid electrical tape to coat it with.
I understand. So, I presume it was the 'output' manifold, bolted to the underside of the S/C'er impeller housing, that was coming in contact with the 'starter wire bolt', once installed, that compelled you to file down the bolt in the first place to avoid shorting?
I was looking at some photos online and have you considered trying to use the starter solenoid off of a 04-06 model TL, I can't tell for sure if they share the same mounting location though? They have the power wire connection coming straight out vs at a 90. Also after looking at some photos of the 07-08 starters it looks like that 90 degree connector may just be bolted onto a straight connector coming off of the solenoid, if that makes any sense. If you go to rockautos website and look at some of the photos of the 07-08 starters you can see what I am talking about, they have a couple that don't have the plastic "cap" on the end of where the power wire connects and there is a stud with a nut on it.
Without Cap
With Cap
Not sure if there is another J series starter that is compatible and uses a different solenoid layout, not like we are working on some small block GMs. lol
Last edited by 05 Acura TL; 06-20-2019 at 09:51 AM.
I was looking at some photos online and have you considered trying to use the starter solenoid off of a 04-06 model TL, I can't tell for sure if they share the same mounting location though? They have the power wire connection coming straight out vs at a 90. Also after looking at some photos of the 07-08 starters it looks like that 90 degree connector may just be bolted onto a straight connector coming off of the solenoid, if that makes any sense. If you go to rockautos website and look at some of the photos of the 07-08 starters you can see what I am talking about, they have a couple that don't have the plastic "cap" on the end of where the power wire connects and there is a stud with a nut on it.
Without Cap
With Cap
Not sure if there is another J series starter that is compatible and uses a different solenoid layout, not like we are working on some small block GMs. lol
Omg ty so much. I’ll check and report back today!!!
Thanks again for the suggestion. Now there is room for the S/C belly to not rub. Trash piece that I was going to JB weld. Put Dielectric grease on the wire and bolt. Wrapped it with electrical tape after. Finished it with liquid electrical tape. Installed the new A/C pipe. To remove the lateral tranny mount, remove the aluminum bracket shown on the bottom left of the pic. After removing the three bolts holding the mount undo the center piece like so. The aftermarket replacement mount is OEM?? Why would they scratch the “Honda” off? Not sure why they are different sizes. But I was forced to reinstall the old mount. It’s still holding by 2/4 rubber suspenders.
Glad to see it was just a 90 degree adapter! I figured it was based off of the design. The Honda logo being scratched off is odd, but there are a lot of parts that get reboxed and come off the same production line. I have seen a couple RL guys run into similar issues with the mount being the wrong height, may have been sent the wrong one or they have a part number cross reference issue.
I would like to make hood, trunk, doors, roof, fenders, mirrors ect all out of Carbon Fiber.
It seems the 5.7oz. “2x2 twill” is the best for automotive aftermarket parts. With practice and the rest of the equipment and material, this should work.
It is cost effective for me because of the number of parts being made for each car.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 06-24-2019 at 08:36 PM.
Thanks for being generous about the win. :P
That lil’ Civic is quick! It shifts fast as well. The Rotrex was being granny shifted there, which lost a bit of time.
It was at the end that the car began to pull the hardest. But there is a slight turn on that “drag strip” that feels like a 45 degree turn at speed so the throttle was released early.
The coilovers, tires, wheels are very soft and under powered for the Rotrex system. Last weekend someone mentioned that the car looks like a see-saw when the gears are shifted. The butt apparently almost hits the ground during high gear shifts.
But there is a slight turn on that “drag strip” that feels like a 45 degree turn at speed so the throttle was released early.
The coilovers, tires, wheels are very soft and under powered for the Rotrex system. Last weekend someone mentioned that the car looks like a see-saw when the gears are shifted. The butt apparently almost hits the ground during high gear shifts.
Well, for a 'preoccupied' race coupled with 'granny shifts', I'd say a win is a win. , before brake lights came on, though, it looked as if you lifted off the throttle toward the end, that's when it looked like the civic took some ground on your 'car length'.
What are you going to do to try and minimize the 'see-saw' effect, though?
I ran a Civic Type R the other day and was fairly impressed with the results. I was side by side for most of the pull, but he did start pulling at the top. Not exactly sure what was done, but it had exhaust.
Not bad at all. Al thought I would think you would have pulled on him more. A tuned type R makes 360-380whp through a custom tune. They'll somewhat keep up but you should have been a little further away with the extra 40-60whp . Great race regardless. Would love to see more.
Well, for a 'preoccupied' race coupled with 'granny shifts', I'd say a win is a win. , before brake lights came on, though, it looked as if you lifted off the throttle toward the end, that's when it looked like the civic took some ground on your 'car length'.
What are you going to do to try and minimize the 'see-saw' effect, though?
The Type R guy a good kid. The kinda guy who deserves the car he loves. If it’s more than he can afford, he works
harder and sacrifices more to earn it.
I need BC Racing coilovers to fix the see-sawing. But then I would trust the wheels and tires even less due to
the lack of body roll.
Wouldn’t want a situation where I feel too confident about a turn only to slide.
06-16-2019, 10:11 PM
, before brake lights came on, though, it looked as if you lifted off the throttle toward the end, that's when it looked like the civic took some ground on your 'car length'. 
