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I removed the windshield washer fluid reservoir to create more ventilation for the Rotrex oil radiator. The unit blocks half of the Rotrex radiator aswell. Filled the jug by recycling the fluid. More space to work. Instead of removing the light weight tubing. I rolled it up and zip tied for future reinstallation. I cut rubber strips to put over the contact points of the radiator. This is how they will sit.
I changed the position of the clamps on the Rotrex reservoir to more evenly distribute its weight on the mounting bracket and reduce vibrational movement. Used a washer piece off the Comptech sports supercharger to make a gap for the Rotrex radiator mount bracket. Rotrex radiator back in. This time with rubber spacers for vibration absorbsion and barrier between the two metals.
Rubber spacer I turned hose clamp worm bodies upwards to make a solid base for the rubber barrier. Remove the two plastic protectors on the sides of the rsdiator. This is the new vent hole where the windshield washer reservoir was. Since I won’t drive the car in the rain, no reason for the fluid?
Removed the cap to tighten the banjo bolt. Place hose clamp in up position and tighten. Put all the the ducks in a row in this corner. All tightened down. Removed the psi gage while I test fit. The firewall comes forward at an angle. In order to make the manifold aim more straight forward, I belt the bracket. Looks better.
I’m order to secure the Rotrex bracket, you must temporarily remove the alternator. Do this by removing the #12 bolt and the green bracket. Also remove this #10 bolt and move the wiring harness to Towards the power steering reservoir. Remove this bolt on the left of the alternator. Here it is!! I would suggest to take the bracket with the circle off until you install the Rotrex onto it.
Reinstall the alternator, take the Special long bolt from the bolt supply and put it into the hinge joint between the Rotrex and alternator. Don’t forget the spacer! Starting to put the Rotrex coolant lines into the Rotrex. As usual, work from the inside out. Had to raise the engine to get the Rotrex unit to sit flush on the nracket. Now with the Rotrex unit in place, it’s time to test fit the first first charge pipe!!
Secure the banjo bolt and hose clamp at this angle. It will keep that charge pipe from rubbing them. Reinstall the power steering radiator to its original location. First bend the the two brackets towards the car. The power steering radiator must look recessed like so. Beautiful! Strap down the intercooler and begin assembling the charge piping
Bolted down first coupler clamps. I put them in this position for ease of access and to keep out of the path of the motor radiator. Loosely connected the last charge pipe! Bolted most of the charge pipe clamps. I made the intercooler coupler clamp bolts face down to make the car look like it has teeth. It gives an humorously aggressive look. As she currently sits
I put that into my cart. It’s going to be some
time before I’m finished with the install.
I still need RV6 PCDs and Innovative motor
mounts. The PCDs are a critical component.
I don’t want to remove the ones I have on the Comptech TL, but they are perfect there. I would have to remove the Comptech to get to them. I would rather wait and save up for a fresh set.
ceramic coated?
once installed, how are you getting it to a tuner?
I guess just stay out of boost until it's safe?
I work wirh customers to provide them with a first startup tune profile. It is asked that they stay out of boost but the tune also has ignition cut if the MAP sensor sees boost.
I also wanted to add that there is no heat related issues for the oil cooler with the windslield fluid reservoir left in place. I have never removed it for any customer and this was strictly Alek's weight loss OCD kicking in as he shared with me via text messaging
Andy is my go to guy for these questions. He has done extensive research and work on the TL. Gives me great advice with sound reasoning. Hats off to the TL King!
Rockstar, I prefer to do rolls. But I won’t really drive it much now. It’s to look fast and beautiful.
There isn’t much dust/dirt after 88k miles, but I’m cleaning every bit of the car.
Attach the wastegate to the charge pipe with the metal gasket in place using a V-band clamp Reliable boost control. Finished product should look something like this.
Took a long time to birth the rear oem Precat. OEM and Aftermarket comparison. Switching to RV6 v3 Straight pipes and ATLP third cat straight pipe. No powder coating because the E85 fuel burns cooler.
Make sure to face the open portion of these two parts towards the Intake Manifold. Install the two aluminum check valves like so. Innovative mounts arrived! I was impressed when I for saw this on mnborg’s GBP Rotrex build! Did the throttle body delete because it will heat up the Intake manifold, where it would otherwise be cooler with race gas. Remove those two bolts, x4 bolts connecting the mount to the subframe, and finally the single top bolt. use a price od wood and an emergency jackstand under the oil pan to keep the engine in place. Remove the hydronic lines going to the front and resr mounts. Delete all these comfort dampers in the front and back. You could remove the Evap sensor as I did. Save all your parts just Incase you wanna ride is comfort mode again.
This is what it should look like removed.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 03-09-2019 at 11:11 AM.
Had a minor fuel leak when testing the upgraded fuel system. This 90 coupling had a leak right there. I untightened/retightened and it sealed well. To test the fuel system: With the key in the ignition turn your key to the setting just before starting your car. You will hear a Vrrr-ing of the fuel pump in the rear. This will prime the fuel lines. All -6an fuel return lines connected and propositioned. Use the “Vrr-ing” technique to preset the return line fuel regulator to 55psi.
Cleaning up the engine bay on the Comptech. Going to be fun cruising both the S/C’d TLs wife my wife this summer. Would flying these look tacky at an event?
Clutch valve delete in progress. Went to the local E85 station for the Rotrex TLs first taste of fermented blueberry fuel. Bought 18 gallons for the tuning process. Using this Holley E85 tester it shows that the fuel is E85/E86. Perfect for a tune!
Gap between the two parts of the mount. Rear engine mount installed! Not easy to install,but I refrained from reinstalling anything back there to give me more room. It is still more difficult to get the oem one out. Use bolts clear the gap. Should hold? Cat approved of Intake manifold fitment.
New P2P intake manifold hex studs. The 4” intake pipe which is connected to the Rotrex unit is in close proximity to the anterior RV6 v3 PCD exhaust pipe. Thoughtfully, Andy Gerzina over at Gerzy Bear Performance provided an 1800F heat shield to keep the intake temperatures down. Test fitting the new longer serpentine belt around the Rotrex pulley.
Everything reinstalled. Nothing to it. x2 One-way check valves are used to prevent boost from escaping from the intake manifold. When not in boost, the check valve allows vacuum to flow once again.
When I originally modified the i tank fuel pump cage, it didn’t seat all the way because the new fuel pump was 1/3 larger than OEM. The fuel pump sock was bottoming out on the bottom of the fuel cage. I ended up cutting the bottom of the fuel cage to seat the o-ring that delivers fuel. There is the Evap sensor which the front and rear engine mounts are connected to. I deleted the hydraulic vacuum lines. The Evap sensor was deleted due to it no longer being used.
01-01-2019, 10:51 PM
