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I’m taking this one slowly. tbough it’s going pretty quickly.
i need to remove the two bolts holding the engine hitch on the left side
of the engine. But it is behind the power steering pulley, so I must first remove the power steering pulley. Does the power steering pulley bolt go backward to the standard bolt pattern?
Im also having is trouble removing the plate that holds the Alternator, x2 pulleys and A/C compressor. There’s a hinge the I cannot take off.
^
Nice utilization of those laparotomy sponges. They have 100's of uses around the house. In one of your other previous picture posts I noticed you using some disposable OR table 'drapes' as well. Great minds think alike, hehe.
^
Nice utilization of those laparotomy sponges. They have 100's of uses around the house. In one of your other previous picture posts I noticed you using some disposable OR table 'drapes' as well. Great minds think alike, hehe.
lol! They are so handy!! I also use many different types of drapes. I like to pretend I’m surgeon when I work on my car.
When I anticipate a lot of fluid loss, I wear surgical gloves and gown, it’s saved me numberous times. I bet the neighbors think it’s funny.
It appears you still have the #2 Auto Tensioner Assembly in place. Try removing #8 Special Bolt (10X115), that may be your problem. After all it's special.
By the looks of that line on the parts diagram, the length of #8 Special Bolt (10X115), looks like it ends up in the A/C bracket, at the end?
Somehow, along the way, it may be hanging you up, remove and report back.
I need to take that tow loop off for weight reduction and clearance.
Put the black beauty on jack stands to save my spine whilst I work above the engine. It gives me clearance to install the new incoming and outgoing fuel pipes.
I miss having a garage and being able to work by fleshlight like that...
it's quite therapeutic and you see things so much more clearly than when you're looking at it during the day.
I miss having a garage and being able to work by fleshlight like that...
it's quite therapeutic and you see things so much more clearly than when you're looking at it during the day.
I’m trying to build this kit as slow as I can. It’s exciting to put it together!
Porting and polishing the runners is easy right? Just port match the I/M and head holes(and gasket)?
^
So, tells us, after driving the CT TL now for a few months, what are your impressions thus far?? Was it worth it?
Is there ample power when you need it, compared to before when it was stock, for moving out in front of slower moving traffic or for a quick onramp 1st through 3rd or 4th automatic tranny pull while merging onto a clear stretch of interstate, hehe??
^
So, tells us, after driving the CT TL now for a few months, what are your impressions thus far?? Was it worth it?
Is there ample power when you need it, compared to before when it was stock, for moving out in front of slower moving traffic or for a quick onramp 1st through 3rd or 4th automatic tranny pull while merging onto a clear stretch of interstate, hehe??
The Comptech supercharger is a beautiful thing. It won’t give you big gains, but will put a smile on your face when you make the Supercharger sing! With the ATLP test pipe, cat back, and RV6 HFPC modded to be PCDs, the sound in a tunnel makes a sound like an very high performance car. Though it isn’t. It’s a reliable 5psi of boost that makes people roll down their windows waiting for more. I feel this setup is solid and reliable. With higher than Rotrex intake temp due to no intercooler, the methanol injection cools things fast when sprinting around. I’m happy with this product. I encourage anyone buy these limited gifts from the 3G Gods. The whine is unmatched, very loud.
I spent about 9k all said and done for this setup. I got the best parts. Paid more, but it’s fast and reliable.
Today, I took the Pre-cat back ATLP exhaust from the CT TL and put it(partially) onto the GBP TLS. Moved the stock Type-S pre-cat back to the CT TL, wow is it a quiet drive! Prefect for DDing! The thing I now hear is the sirens wail.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 12-29-2018 at 11:42 PM.
These are pics of the two motor oil changes, and the swap of the TL exhausts. Cleaned up those ATLP mufflers something fierce before placing the exhaust system under the new home.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 12-29-2018 at 11:59 PM.
Are precats from the 3.2L and 3.5L interchangeable?
Yeah they're interchangeable. The j32a3 (07-08) and the j35a8 are pretty much the same engine. The longer stroke is what gives it the extra .3 liters. The cams are also more aggressive.
The Comptech supercharger is a beautiful thing. It won’t give you big gains, but will put a smile on your face when you make the Supercharger sing! With the ATLP test pipe, cat back, and RV6 HFPC modded to be PCDs, the sound in a tunnel makes a sound like an very high performance car. Though it isn’t. It’s a reliable 5psi of boost that makes people roll down their windows waiting for more. I feel this setup is solid and reliable. With higher than Rotrex intake temp due to no intercooler, the methanol injection cools things fast when sprinting around. I’m happy with this product. I encourage anyone buy these limited gifts from the 3G Gods. The whine is unmatched, very loud.
I spent about 9k all said and done for this setup. I got the best parts. Paid more, but it’s fast and reliable.
Today, I took the Pre-cat back ATLP exhaust from the CT TL and put it(partially) onto the GBP TLS. Moved the stock Type-S pre-cat back to the CT TL, wow is it a quiet drive! Prefect for DDing! The thing I now hear is the sirens wail.
Nice write-up, thanks.
That was just under my total cost, from 2004-2006, when I pieced my set-up together on my CL-S6. CT S/C'er kit, lightweight pulley's, autometer fuel & boost gauge with A-pillar pod, CT headers, XLR8 hi-low cat, CT B-pipe, CT axle back mufflers and installation (for CT S/C'er kit; pulley's; gauges and pod). Had there been a known reliable 'plug and play' harness and AEM EMS standalone tuning option, back in the day, like their is now, I would have probably included that to maximize power and the 'fun' factor; however, I've now realized all of the depreciation over the years on the sunk cost's, in regards to parts and installation, with reliable performance and dependability, so it's all good. Everything has performed as it should with minimal deterioration in quality. With the S/C'er rebuilt in 2015 after 105K miles, it's now ready to go another 100+K, should I have it that long. Money well spent to me and that is what counts, IMHO; though others may not agree. In that case, 'no f*cks given', hehe.
I took the front cat off the Type-S for more work room. I finally took that power steering pump pulley off. Now I was able to remove the tow loop permanently. Was now able to install new fuel rail and 1300cc Bosch injectors. Bought these at harbor freight. It allowed me more working space as the car now sits evenly in the air. Took off the silly tow hook.
I began assembly of the Gerzy Bear Performance Rotrex housing mount. Test fitting The P2R spacer is on! Shot of the anterior side of the engine. Looks beautiful! Gerzand’s gasket being installed.
Whilst assembling the wastegate, I noticed the clamp lip didn’t fit over the aluminum flange. Texted Andy, waiting to hear back. It may just be user error. After sscuring the new incoming/outgoing fuel lines. Because I chose to run the new fuel lines above the old ones, there is a minor bump that is not protected. It would be okay. Installed the Rotrex fluid reservoir and aluminum cage. Simple install. Shot of the fuel lines coming out of the engine bay. Current shot of the GBP Rotrex Mount. Complete install of this mount requires the temporary removal of the alternator.
Ran the fuel lines to the tank. Still need to put the fittings on, as well as drill a hole in the too and tap the return line fitting. I cut rough rubber pieces to size and placed them between any plastic or metal prominences. Can you see them? They will give me peace of mind years later.
Top shot of the radiator install. Shot of the Rotrex radiator install. I’ll need to redo that by adding rubber between the radiator and the aluminum bracket. Aeromotive fuel gauge. Still looking for a good spot for this. Any suggestions? Andy suggests to not use Teflon tape to screw the gauge onto the fuel gauge unit. Use Teflon paste instead. It will keep you injectors from clogging when it gets into the fuel system. Radiator needs to be fitted onto the aluminum bracket. Reservoir and radiator now installed. It’s a good idea to use rubber pieces between the metal parts of the radiator and bracket.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 12-30-2018 at 09:29 PM.
Aeromotive fuel gauge. Still looking for a good spot for this. Any suggestions?
You probably already looked at the picture below from mdnborg's thread?
It looks like that general area is where they put it, buried behind the engine, perhaps near the firewall?
He does not really have a 'from above' looking down at the engine picture, since the install, that would hint at where it finally ended up or how it was mounted.
You probably already looked at the picture below from mdnborg's thread?
It looks like that general area is where they put it, buried behind the engine, perhaps near the firewall?
He does not really have a 'from above' looking down at the engine picture, since the install, that would hint at where it finally ended up or how it was mounted.
Thanks Zeta! I was thinking about putting it to the firewall and closer to the middle, tucked just under the sway bar.
Two -9AN inlet pipes hang loosely over the bay. After making the final cut in the -8AN line I cleani it with a watered Qtip to remove any debris that may clog the injectors. I keep a piece of tape on every opening for the same reason. I put the radiopaque part of a lap sponge into the -8AN pipe to keep the lumen clean as I carefully trim the pipe end circumferentially. I lube all the surfaces of both sides with fresh motor oil for smooth entry. Everything on the front of the incoming side is hooked up. All that is needed is tightening and zip ties. My Father is a plumber, thanks to him to teaching this to me as a youngster.
Last edited by Acura TL Builder; 01-01-2019 at 09:40 AM.
12-27-2018, 09:40 AM
I like to pretend I’m surgeon when I work on my car. 
remove and report back.
Here's to the look on your face when you mash on the gas to spin up that Rotrex.
