Hey guys, I just got a quick question. What would be the best CAI and TBS to put on my TL? I heard a lot about the AEM V2 CAI but when I looked online it doesnt say that it will fit the TL. I dont want to have to fbricate anything in order to have this fit. Also, does it matter what TBS I have?

What CAIs and TBSs dos everyone have? And where did you get them?

Word on the street is if you want to Hydrolock, get a CAI. Just leave it stock, as almost everyone in the community believes there isnt enough bang for buck

Don't waste your money. Get a j-pipe.

the AEMv2 will fit. it's made for a honda accord but it fits our TL's. i know because i have one installed.

you can get them on amazon for $260 all day long.


oh and don't waste your time with a TBS. waste of money. then again, so is spending $260 on a piece of metal and filter. you can get a knock off intake for a 1/5 of the price. they all do the same thing.

I was going to do a J-pipe later, for now I just wasnt sure if I should do the CAI or not.

Thanks dude

the intake wont provide gains.
but the jpipe will.

A CAI will produce gains. More dense air entering the engine creates a more powerful combustion in turn creating more power. Don't expect the power youll get from a j-pipe change but you can expect 5-10whp from an intake depending on which you buy plus you'll get the advantage of hearing the full VTEC x-over throaty sound that Honda engines are known for . This is why most dont see the added mpg intakes can gain because people drive WOT to hear the J32/35/37 in full song which burns a lot of gas...lol. Back to the subject at hand... I'm about value. The Takeda intake gives you the same performance of AEM V2 for $60-75 bux cheaper. W/O a heavy foot also expect 2-3mpg added fuel economy on the highway.

^but the stock factory system is a cold air intake system.
on top of that, the stock paper filter outflows the throttle body at WOT.

the stock system is ALREADY pulling that dense air into your engine, and you dont even have to upgrade the filter.
Why spend 260-300 dollars on something your stock system does?

just so i understand correctly, i can expect 5-10whp depending on which metal tube and dryflow filter i go with? which one nets the most whp? why do some produce more powar than others?

i have had a CAI for 4 years and never had a problem.....

about gains, yes my butt dyno loved the 3rd gear after the AEM install....and the sound at WOT is just

moving on to the TB spacer....i have the moores performance spacer as compared to the P2R....its 1" in thickness as compared to .75" and 70mm bore as compared to 65-66mm of the P2R....and yup i love both these mods....

i would believe i did gain around 2-3whp/2-3wtq but i dont have dyno proof....yes i did spend ~300 on these 2 mods and i spend $300 on the PCD and gained 20 odd HP....so yes the PCD's and Jpipe provide a better gain to $$$ ratio....

but yeah i wudnt take my CAI out to go back to stock

This.

If you want a TBS, go with P2R (https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/another-p2r-tb-spacer-install-807329/)

oem intake resonator delete

do it

OP, CAI are all pretty much the same but better than our stock intake. Even though our is a "CAI" it has flow restrictions; where as a really CAI as little to none. CAI provides colder air to the engine for better throttle response and a slight gain in horsepower.

CAI will provide pretty much nothing except extra noise.

I got mine installed about 8 months ago and it was fun at first but it's getting annoying. The whistle it makes is almost embarassing.

rv6 v3 j-pipe ftmfw. That was 350$ and provided more fun, hp, and a little sound when you stomp on it. The intake I think is pointless. I only get it because my oem eas damaged in a front end accident and it was cheaper to buy the aftermarket CAI. FYI mine is a Fujita f5... But they're all the same. Only difference is the colors and th AEM is slightly bigger in diameter. I paid 150$ for mine and I feel like it eas a waste of money.

Simply having a CAI does not necessarily mean you will hydrolock, depending on how water gets to the filter (which probably depends more on the driver i.e. driving through deep puddles), you have options of pre-filter and a bypass to prevent hydrolocking or jsut going with an SRI

As for performance gains, they may be minimal but there is obviously a market for them, whether your preference is for the sound, performance or whatever, to each his own.

The added 5hp and sound for one. The stock intake does nothing to give the throatiness at full song. If YOU like the stock set-up, great but there a are so many than want more or companies would produce intakes at a loss.

lol word on the street huh...ive had a cai's on two different cars for about five years each.. i have never had a motor hydrolock...only way a cai intake is gonna suck up water is if it is fully submerged ...and if that does happen to someone they didnt utilize common sense by not driving through a river

What is a WOT (lol)?

What is a TBS?

What to do in the event of a hydrolock and what exactly is it?

WOT wide open throttle
TBS throttle body spacer..
hydrolock is when your engine gets water in it..chances are the motor will be no good after
i have heard stories that people have drained the oil/water...refilled with oil again and the motor was just fine

WOT = Wide Open Throttle
TBS = Throttle Body Spacer

and for your last question. I was told not to turn on the car again if you get a hydrolock and hydrolock means sucking up water from the intake into the engine...causing it to lock up?

^^^ no it doesnt lock up....

the engine works by compressing air and fuel.....when water gets up the intake and thro the manifold and into the cylinder, it does compress like the fuel/air....hence pending the rods.....

now since the rods are bend, the engine wont start, due to water damage, hence hydrolock....

How much more likely is a CAI going to hydrolock when compared to the stock intake? I'm interested in this mod, and I live in CA where it almost never rains so... Will this ever ever ever ever become a problem for me?

And kind of puddles are we talking about here to cause this problem... driving through a homeless person's spit or Lake Superior?

^^^ you should be fine....

i live in Kansas and have driven in torrential rains and tornado conditions without a problem....

just a piece of advice.....when you see a puddle of water (~2 feet deep), dont drive thro it, whether you have intake or not LOL....

because of this thread i decided to post my aem v2 intake on the black market....got sold in 30 min

let me rephrase this.

the cai will provide minimal gains. but not worth the money for.
theres an ebay one for 69 dollars. :lightbulb:

i might only sell my intake if i get a turbo LOL....

well thanks for the reassurance that if i go to sell it, it might get sold quickly

I second this idea! Ive read about it for quite some time, then finally got the balls to suck it up and take the bumper off. Ok so you don't get the same sound as the "paid for" CAI, but if you take a photo of the intake resonator mod and CAI and draw a line with a pen from the opening to the intake manifold its the sane lines.

Personally I think its worth it as one of the first mods you can do. Then save money for the j-pipe, thats what Im hoping to work on haha

Agreed, oem resonator delete, its free, and its doing the same thing a cold air intake is doing. Resonator delete + stage 1 exhaust = Very sexy sound and butt dyno gains/ a couple whp/wtq gains

LoL. This made me laugh. I can just imagine:

Dumbass: "So I was driving in a little puddle and my engine hydrolocked! Damn CAI!"

Dumbass's friend: "How deep was the puddle?"

Dumbass: "Oh, couldn't have been more than like, 2 feet deep. Barely covered my tires!"

Awkard pause as Dumbass's friend tries to figure out a way to tell Dumbass that he's a dumbass without directly calling him a dumbass.

Why are people installing the AEM V2 vs the standard AEM CAI for the TL's?

^because it's the "latest and greatest" model. :wink:

don't buy into the hype, all intakes are the same and do the same thing.

the AEMv2 has a larger chamber (larger diameter piping) at the bottom of the tube so it creates a louder sound at WOT. that's about it.

i have the AEMv2...but only bc i bought it used for a steal. i would never pay retail for one.

My first mod was getting an Injen CAI, which I like having on my car. However, it wasn't the best purchase I've made moding my TL. For $150 less you can purchase a K&N drop-in filter and then remove the stock intake resonator. Not as pretty, but you can put that $150 towards something else, like a jpipe.

The jpipe has been the best CA$H/HP mod I'v done for my TL. As for TBS, I was thinking about it, but I'd rather spend it towards something else right now. Personally I'm saving up to complete my aspec kit.

Thanks Shark.

The standard AEM (polished) is going for $203 + $10 shipping which is $65 cheaper than the blue or gunmetal gray. And definitely cheaper than any I've seen on eBay. I might bite.

http://www.discountairintake.com/sto...ld+air+intakes

^yeah there is no difference really.

hell, you can get a metal tube/dryflow filter on eBay for like $40 shipped.

it wont say AEM on it, but it's the same thing. kind'of like buying the homeless bag of cereal on the bottom shelf instead of the box of cinnamon toast crunch in a box on the top shelf.

^^^

great piece of advice....its the same thing....I paid 200 something for CAI + TBS + Gaskets....

I suggest getting an Ebay intake and put a $50 AEM dryflow filter....i would say filter is more important that the pipe....

Wouldn't a ebay intake be more prone to a cel?

Look at this one for example

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=29950450599

Sais injen styled.. Now throw a injen filter on it and its the equivalent to one

Its 2.75 diameter so Idk if the.real injen is the same diameter but .. I would expect both tje real and fake intake to do the same thing

removing your OEM intake and putting on an aftermarket one will not cause a CEL. you're not messing with any sensors/harness's so don't worry about it.

^^^ X2....

make sure all the connections (hoses/electrical) are back to where they were and should be good

Will automated car washes cause mild hydrolock? Or is hydrolock only possible if the water comes from the ground up (rather than top down).

NOPE !!! automated car washes wont damage anything....

the only way to hydrolock you engine is if your Intake is sitting in water and you step on the gas....so you can hydrolock your engine even if you have stock intake (pretty impossible but i bet we can see a rare example here n there).....

what happens is when you intake is sitting in water and you press the gas pedal....the water gets sucked thro the intake to the manifold into the cylinders....since water does not compress like Air and Fuel mixture, it bends your rods and damages your pistons....

if you find yourself in the puddle and turn the car off....you wont hurt anything....just dont gun the gas pedal....