Advice on ROTORS
Hey Guys,
Firstly, I did use the SEARCH option and couldn't find many topics on ROTORS.
I just clocked 34k miles on my car and notice shivers and shaking (slight) when I brake after coming off the highway and approaching stoplights. Does not happen while im driving on streets though most probably cause of low speed. Anyway took it to my friend who works at tire plus to get the pads replaced and rotors cut. After pulling off the wheels we found out that the rotors are too thin to be cut any more.
I just the car certified in November with 25k miles, so is it possible the rotors have been cut before? Also, rotors wouldn't be covered under extended warranty are they ? Reason is I was at BMW today for friends car and they said they cover brakes under there warranty.
Anyway now if warranty doesn't work, i have to get rotors, so any advice ? What are the oem rotors ? Slotted ? and also are cross drilled better choice if i have to pay for them any way ?
Will appreciate the help. Thanks
Firstly, I did use the SEARCH option and couldn't find many topics on ROTORS.
I just clocked 34k miles on my car and notice shivers and shaking (slight) when I brake after coming off the highway and approaching stoplights. Does not happen while im driving on streets though most probably cause of low speed. Anyway took it to my friend who works at tire plus to get the pads replaced and rotors cut. After pulling off the wheels we found out that the rotors are too thin to be cut any more.
I just the car certified in November with 25k miles, so is it possible the rotors have been cut before? Also, rotors wouldn't be covered under extended warranty are they ? Reason is I was at BMW today for friends car and they said they cover brakes under there warranty.Anyway now if warranty doesn't work, i have to get rotors, so any advice ? What are the oem rotors ? Slotted ? and also are cross drilled better choice if i have to pay for them any way ?
Will appreciate the help. Thanks
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From: www.ExceleratePerformance.com
We have brake packages for most of the Acura vehicles. They include Powerslot/STOPTECH slotted rotors and STOPTECH Performance pads. Better durability, better performance, better material. And they are priced very reasonably.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...m=brakepackage
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...m=brakepackage
Definitely check out the Racingbrake rotors/pads at heeltoeauto.com. I have them at all corners and never had the shakes or anything under hard braking. I mean from 100+ mph, and I kind of drive that way all the time. I have Stoptech rotors and pads on my Prelude and am not nearly as impressed with those. I wouldn't even bother with the warranty and getting new OEM rotors. You'll just have to resurface them in 15k miles anyhow.
I have a set in the FS forum that would fit perfect for you.
Check it out - Click here
Check it out - Click here
Last edited by bumski667; May 13, 2011 at 10:07 AM.
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just get wearever or wagner rotors from.. advanced auto parts, auto zone, or oreily. those all meet OEM requirements.
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free
just get wearever or wagner rotors from.. advanced auto parts, auto zone, or oreily. those all meet OEM requirements.
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free

You would be surprised that even my 13" Rotoras have gotten a little too hot in my full weight TL on the track which is the reason I'm running a race pad now. There's just so much braking done with the fronts and so little with the rears. It's not like most cars where the front and rear share some of the braking, so much of the braking is on the fronts that even 13" rotors is far from overkill.
Slots are going to help keep the pads from glazing. Drilling will actually help the rotors stay cooler especially at higher speeds. Pedal feel from cold to hot also stays more consistent.
While I agree 90%, once you start driving hard, the Brembos are the bare minimum. The 5at brakes give up pretty quickly after repeated hard stops. Both the 5at and Brembos will stop in the same distance in a single stop but the larger Brembos will stay consistent while the 5ats fade.
You would be surprised that even my 13" Rotoras have gotten a little too hot in my full weight TL on the track which is the reason I'm running a race pad now. There's just so much braking done with the fronts and so little with the rears. It's not like most cars where the front and rear share some of the braking, so much of the braking is on the fronts that even 13" rotors is far from overkill.
Slots are going to help keep the pads from glazing. Drilling will actually help the rotors stay cooler especially at higher speeds. Pedal feel from cold to hot also stays more consistent.
You would be surprised that even my 13" Rotoras have gotten a little too hot in my full weight TL on the track which is the reason I'm running a race pad now. There's just so much braking done with the fronts and so little with the rears. It's not like most cars where the front and rear share some of the braking, so much of the braking is on the fronts that even 13" rotors is far from overkill.
Slots are going to help keep the pads from glazing. Drilling will actually help the rotors stay cooler especially at higher speeds. Pedal feel from cold to hot also stays more consistent.
Yup soo true as soon as the brakes on my 5at get hot after hard braking. I can clearly feel the car does not want to brake because of the amount of heat being put out through contact. The rear brakes on our TL's barely do anything which i didn't know for a while
just get wearever or wagner rotors from.. advanced auto parts, auto zone, or oreily. those all meet OEM requirements.
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free
I just replaced mine for $80. TL isn't the fastest car in the world so you really don't need those fancy slotted drilled rotors. Just depends on the way you drive. I got carbon metallic brakes a while ago from oreily. They have a lifetime warranty. So whenever they go out i just get new ones for free

I have just installed regular straight vane drilled front rotors on my TL and already have warping issues on them on sustained hot temperature day driving. Also am in research and I have come across DBA (Disc Brake Australia) rotors with their "kangaroo paw" vane design for allegedly better heat dissipation and a G4000/G5000 grade iron casting material. They are available on line from various vendors and a little more pricey compared to regular grade rotors available in the market.
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