JwapDreams

Hello, this is my first time on an automotive forum and I wasnt quite sure where to put this thread, but according to the hundreds of pages I've looked through for information in regards to my build this seemed like the best spot.

Yes, I'm a noob and I'd be glad for any info or advice given. The problem right now though is in currently split between two builds:

1) stroked 3.2 to 3.5
-j32a2 block/head, 3.5 crank/rods (tbd), j32a2 pistons
-I've read that this combo actually yields 11.3:1 compression instead of the 10:1 people claim because of the stroke difference

OR

2) turbo stroked 3.2 to 3.5
Same motor as above, but with the 3.5 pistons instead of the cl-s piston for lower compression

I'm currently trying to just used stock parts as there really isn't a lot of aftermarket support for the j series engines yet.

The goal with option 1 is to put down 300-325whp. I know it's obtainable. There have been many threads documenting this.

The goal with option 2 is 400whp. If thisaznboy88 would like to chime in that'd be much appreciated as I've seen he recently build a 390whp turbo j series. And what luck? I got an hx35 sitting around too.

This is a daily driver so reliability comes first. Do I need this much power? Probably not, but it's nice to have when you want to let loose.

If Yung one, I love cars, Utah tsx, vit, Dom, Gerzand, or anyone else who knows quite a bit would like to contribute and steer me in a better direction that'd be much appreciated.

P.s. please don't hate me. This is going into a civic lol

thoiboi

JwapDreams

Hey, when you have to swap out and you have to buy new engine mounts, axles, transmission, why not just do the big boy swap?

Not only does it sound far better, is more streestreet able, but it's the same amount of work. Imo J>KBFBD

Could you imagine a civic with a J swap with a true dual exhaust? Now that's sexy.

thoiboi

i mean you're not wrong.. go big or go home


Better properly document this so you can show all the hatters. I bet it'd be as hell !

Oh Sickest TL

iTrader: (3)

have you seen those civics with the J32 supercharged and the massive manifold spacer? A bit extreme lol



This looks badass though

JwapDreams

I've seen a lot of different J swap civics but everyone does them for different reasons.

My car that is going to be receiving this swap is a 97 honda civic lx. Ej6. The car itself weighs about 2400lbs, that's a far cry from what all you TL guys have to carry around lol. 3400lbs right lol?

And I don't like the cut hood look that much, I mean it's okay, but it's a little obnoxious and definitely not very useful. The mounts I want to use are the EKJ2 mounts from hasport. That'll allow the engine to fit under the hood. Clearance won't be an issue either because I'm not into the stance scene, a moderate drop, like an 1-1.5 inches is plenty so as long as I'm not going up some rapid incline, decline I should be good.

And I'd actually like to document this swap because the lack of information. Money isn't an issue for me. It's the motivation. It's tough because one, there's info on this swap, and the engine build itself, but it's all very vague and there isn't really a definitive how to. So perhaps this thread will help people popularize the J swap. Everyone seems to think it's too tough, or too expensive, but in reality it isnt. It's just as much work as a K swap, it's cheaper, and it'll net more power right out of the box.

JwapDreams

Anyone?

Should I just be happy with all motor? Or do you guys think the oem parts can hold 400whp "reliably"? If it blows up in 3 years I'm fine with that. What do you think?

6spd-GERCO

Why a J series and the desire to stroke the motor? Stay all motor for which ever direction you go and make sure it's running well and sort out all the bugs, then FI I would K swap before a J swap - and no swap is "cheaper" than the other it's going to cost time and $$ no matter how you slice it.

JwapDreams

J series because:

-I get to keep a/c and power steering.
-I have to buy new axles, mounts, harness, etc regardless
-stock it has far more power
-personally I'd like to see j swaps become more popular, that means more aftermarket support for you guys. Everything only became popular because of the bigger civic/Integra scene.

Why stroke it? Because I want the best combination for the right amount of money. Most J engine parts are interchangable and im very mechanically inclined. When I said this is my first time in a forum like this, it wasnt because im a retard, but because like i said, its my first time joining. Usually i just read for the info i need, but again like i said before, the information is vague. Its not like hondatech or k20a in terms knowledge (there are some very knowledgeable people here though), especially when it comes to swaps and stuff. Its probably this way because there arent too many CL or TL owners out there. Like i said before, money isnt an issue, i just like efficiency. I already understand the civic platform is not the best platform to build a race car, but I have one. If I wanted to spend over 15 grand personally I'd just buy another car and go that route, but I dont. I have this nice 1997 civic that's been in my driveway and like not having a car payment

Do you not agree that a hybrid engine is not the best way to go? A j35 with 11.3 compression and j32a2 heads sounds a lot better than a j35a4. Plus, I'd like it to be an older model J so I don't have to deal with the DBW issue. That just seems like a mess.

I can't go FI after because I'd need to tear down again because the compression will be too high, and those stock pistons won't handle the boost. Not to mention the uncertainty of the rods. Some people say the stock j35 rods will hold, some say they won't. Some guys have a stock j with 700whp. Some guys blow theirs up on the first try. It's different than let's say my old f22b1, where 300whp was the absolute limit on the stock rods.

K20 isn't an option for me because like i said before, the j swap is cheaper. I could walk over to the junk yard and pick up 2 j series engines for 300 bucks a piece. That's 600 bucks vs whatever price I can find a k20a2 for. K20a2 engines are not cheap. On top of this, the k20a2 will net what, 180whp? While the J will net at least 250whp. And the tranny (2004 tls) for the j comes with a factory lsd already installed. Sure, you could build a k20a2 to 250whp, but it's gonna be shit to drive in lower rpms, sound like rice, cost a lot more money.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

IMO, you need horsepower, not torque. So a destroked/short stroke engine is what you should go after given the weight of the Civic. I wouldn't go above and 3.2 or you will hate the car. I say small displacement with slightly longer duration cam at most. I did a j35a8 swap into a hatch here recently and it was impressive to look at but just wasn't fast. Roasted tires up till 4th.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

i think yungone is right, a 3.5 you just won't have traction. Just get a J32A2 and put it in. that would be be a lot of fun in a small package. I would avoid the newer J engines. Prank parts makes a log manifold for hood clearance.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

what's the end result you're looking for?
Car shows? Drag strip? Track?
If money is no object, I'd be looking at something that already comes fast...and make it faster.

JwapDreams

Thanks yungone501, for your input, it is much appreciated

And I agree with your statement, horse power over torque for me. The thing though is, I'm not sure if a regular j32 will put out as much whp as a stroked j32 with bolt ons. As there arent any decent cams, pistons, etc for these engines I was thinking the .3 displacement the and the increased compression would help me achieve a similar power to having regrinds.

This is a daily driver. Well, a daily driver for the summer. Wisconsin winters are just too brutal lmao. How will I drive this? The speed limit. If it's 25, I'm going 25. If it's 65, I'm going 65 lol. I'd probably see the track once or twice a year tops. Car show? Maybe once a year in my gfs hometown. If I'm gonna race, it'll probably be from a roll (on the highway) because someone else wants to race. This car is also going to be running toyo ra-1 proxies.

And Rockstar, the reason why I'm not buying something faster is because I hate having payments lol. You would not believe how many times I drive by EVOs and want one...or Supras, or the local nsx, etc. I saw someone had purchased a 2016 GTR and almost jizzed myself because I've only seen like 3 in person, and I got to ride up nice and close.

Barring, I don't have THAT kind of money, but I'm well off lol.

JwapDreams

I'm also avoiding newer j engines because of the DBW and for alot less money I can make around the same power. Also, a point I forgot to mention to yungone, I've been all over cams in these threads, I know the RL cams seem to be the best, but there isn't conclusive data in it. All the oem j cams are pretty mild compared to what a regrinds can offer correct?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

If you really want a 3.5, then get a J35A3. CL6 trans bolts right up. Few parts needed from the CL6 engine. That'll be plenty of power to move that light frame. Keep it simple. It's easy to upgrade things like cams afterwards if you still need power which I doubt you will. You also get great reliability this way.

JwapDreams

It's not that I want a 3.5, 3.5 just sounds like the best bang for your buck you know? The goal for me is to hit 300whp all motor or 400whp turbo. Most guys here atm seem to say go with all motor. Is that because of the car it's going into? Or because the engine will become considerably unreliable with stock components? But anyways, your input is appreciated gnuts.

I'm trying to stay away from the j35a3 because I don't like the limitation of the header less head. The plan was always to custom fab some headers or a turbo manifold. Yes, I can weld which helps a lot.

As for cams, I'm either going to go with the j32a2 cams or the RL cam. Paying upwards of 700 for a minimal whp gain isn't efficient in my eyes. I love cars had a regrind and he actually lost some power in his power band. Spent a lot of money doing so too

JwapDreams

Also, for the CL-S transmission, isn't it quite expensive and tedious to fix if it breaks? I read somewhere to get the TL-S transmission instead from the 04-08 because it's exactly the same, yet is missing the problem that the CL-S has? I think it was a sensor or a clutch plate problem. Something like that.

I'm also looking into dual throttle body if n/a is the way to go.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

I'd say find you a j32a2. Have some custom long tubes made for it, j37 intake and with 75-80mm throttle body, something you can tune with (AEM) and you will be 300hp+ easy. This should give you excellent power up top and keep torque at bay. If by then you think the Civic can handle the additional power, order a set of aftermarket cams. I've had two different sets of Web cams and both were the shit. The j32a2 heads will allow for easy tuning with excellent power benefits. Not something that's much more sensitive to heat and timing like the single port style heads from the j32a3/j35a8.

JwapDreams

Yeah, I was reading through a whole bunch of of Utah tsx (or his son) thread with his car. There were way too many problems with that build that I didn't want lol. Everything seemed to break and that piston he found in his oil pan. Ouch.

If I was to use the j37 intake that'd require a DBW throttle body wouldn't it? I would like to avoid that. I think I also read article that feature Gerzand, he's Andy right? He said that the 3.7 does flow better but wasn't actually worth the cost to convert. It'd be more efficient to just PnP the regular intake.

Do you have specs of your cams and can the stock springs hold this?

Also, would I have to use hallow tls exhaust valves? Or is that just for turbo? I'd like to prevent valves dropping and killing my engine lol.

Sorry for all the questions lol

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha...I understand...you have "excuse me, but I don't care for you money"...but not all the way to "Fuck you money"!
Haha...

my kinetic blue made 303HP (by previous owner) with intake, 3.7tb, 3.7 intake, ported runners, pcd to true dual exhaust and a solid stage 3 clutch...
not bad!!! If it takes up the same space, I'd rather have the bigger displacement too...you can always address traction with various methods...but once you run out of NA power, you're out of NA power.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

The J35A3 does have true headers. It has the same casing as the J32A2 if I'm not mistaken.

The J35A3 and J32A2 would likely be close to producing the same hp numbers as the heads are nearly identical. The J35 will obviously have a big bump in torque. So it's up to you. Also you want the 2003 CL-S 6speed trans - it was the auto with issues, not the CL6. But I agree with yungone, get the J32A2 with all the parts he mentioned. That will be a blast. The J32A2 in stock form has been shown to handle pretty high boost numbers if you want boost down the road. I think you should always run all motor first to work out any issues with the swap before doing anything else like a turbo. Although I'm sure it's been done, there just isn't much room for a turbo in that car.

JwapDreams

Yeah Rockstar, whatever I need to pay to get the power I'll pay lol, you have to pay to play, but at the same time I'm not like some other guys who drop like 15k+ into their civic trying to make it a true race car. It's admirable, but again, not very efficient.

Civics have their limitations. With the same amount of money invested they won't perform as well as other cars. On top of that, some people get mods they don't need because they want to be cool or don't know they don't need that mod. I've been around the Honda scene enough, a short time though, but for instance, excessive large tb that will cause them to lose responsiveness in their car, or cams that their car will never utilize because they car doesn't have the correct mods for the power the engine makes, i.e. dropping cams in a stock car. You get the idea lol.

Also, if the j32 is stroked to 3.5, it'll take up the same engine space. It'd just be j35 crank and rods inside the j32a2 block with the j32a2 pistons. The stroke is what makes up the .3 difference. This is the combo that I initially wanted because I didn't want to have to use a high revving engine to make power because though I love the sound of it, something like that seems to me like it'd increase the chances of dropping a valve and killing the engine. So I chose to increase the displacement instead. I mean, doesn't an engine with 11.3 compression, stroked to 3.5, revving to 7k (or whatever the stock j32a2 valve train allows, 7200?) Sound like a nice set up? I'd think this set up would at minimal produce similar power comparable to the new j37s but with a better r/s ratio.

To address those traction issues I'd run the toyo tires and I'm thinking a set of koni yellows/ground control. I'd also have to figure out if the front and rear sway bars still fit between engine fitment and having a true duel exhaust. I'm currently thinking it will? But there will have to be some minor modifications done to allow so.

Gnuts, when you say j32a2s handle boost well, is that the whole engine you're talking about? Rods, pistons, etc? Or is that the block itself that holds boost well?

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

there's a turbo swapped car (can't remember the guys name, on J32 forum I think) who ran like 6 or 700 whp on a stock J32. If this is for a DD, then I'd stay away from a turbo as you'll have more then enough power N/A. And as I said, if you change your mind down the road, boost it. The older J will handle it fine.

Again, if you want a 3.5, don't open up a J32. Just use a J35A3 with CL-S cams (or cam of your choice) and you have a 3.5 type S. It's so much simpler this way. If you're going to all the trouble of opening up the engine, then you might as well build a 3.6. A 3.5 in a civic will roast those tires in every gear.

This thread might help: https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...s-cls6-915106/

6spd-GERCO

FYI Toyo RA-1's are not a DD tire lol

It’s all too common for people to over cam their Honda engines (especially B series), I am in the multi stage process of building my Integra. Motor is being built, 84mm Sleeved B18C1 with 10.7-ish compression and ITR cams (00-01 spec). I plan to run that motor next year N/A and then go to a Rotrex. Why did I go this way? I observed the cars that I saw at AutoX and track days, talked with people and lots of reading/research.

I know I_love_cars (ILC), I meet him at King Motorsports Dyno Day’s I forget what year but it was a few dyno days ago, 4 I think. I talked to him about a supercharger/turbo build for my TL. I started running the numbers and watch what other people were doing. This and talking with and seeing ILC TL’s made me switch my attention to my Integra. ILC is now into turbo stuff but different platform (BMW’s). I tracked with him at Road America this year, he’s running a NA E30. We both strongly agree that for a track car N/A is by far the most reliable set up. Also now talking about his TL-S is a touchy subject :P . Let’s say lots of money was spent on it.

Civics are nice platforms, it shares the same great suspension architecture of the Integra, with the right mods it’s a great FWD car. Traction will always be an issue with a FWD car, get traction bars and address the bushings.
Buy this it’s a great starting point: http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30035

If you’re going to throw in a different crank, why not build it for your future boost plans?

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

The j37 intake isn't about gains so much as it is with powerband placement. The large plenum volume combined with the slightly larger diameter runners will help to move the power from midrange to up top where it's less likely to knock the tires off. This is exactly why I run it on my current 3.5 setup. For a more pronounced effect, keep the IMRC valve opened at all times so that air is being pulled from maximum plenum volume even at lower engine speeds.


I don't have specs or part numbers off hand. I'll have to check some old notes out if you need them. Both sets were made were designed to work with factory valvetrain and needed no other upgrades. Gains were unknown as I never dyno'd pre/post installation.

If you're deciding on going the j32a2 route, stick with the stock valves. Though they aren't the best at weight and power, they are exceptionally strong. Later, lighter valve designs are definitely a weaker design and IMO aren't worth the money unless you prefer power over reliability...some people do. Me, not so much. Definitely throw a good set of springs in there to prevent valve float on the 6MT. I recently purchased a set of Bisi D series springs from a buddy who claimed they were $250 I believe that will work with your setup and keep things in check if you miss a gear. And believe me, that's the NUMBER ONE reason 6MT's ever come into my shop.

JwapDreams

Lol. They're not really, the toyo ra-1s, but assuming how little I'll drive around during the summer, to and from work, to and from school, the track maybe once, I think they're alright. I mean, I'm pretty sure they're DOT legal because they're not full slicks. Plus, they're supposed to have pretty good handling in the sun and rain. Cost wise they're aren't too pricey either, buying a new set every year or two isnt bad, and don't seem to have the pulling left/right problem some M&H tires have, or are those the nitto? Not sure, but I remember some tire having that problem BAD.

I only want to run these so I'll know I'll have the traction, whatever that means with this engine, when I need it. I'm in an interesting spot because I'm not into full race car mode, or quiet grocery car mode, I want something right in the middle. The true duel exhaust looks great, but it also should help quiet the car down, one of the many reasons I want to go that route, but at the same time, I'd assume from a roll, I'd want hear the car open up and pull some srt8s or something. Traction on the streets means no one has traction so I'm fine with that lol. But as much as I'd like to get nice kills, it doesn't mean I go out looking for them. Should the time arise though I'd like to be prepared

And I agree with your research. In autox, having an integra or civic with a huge turbo is wrong. You need instant power when exiting a turn therefore all motor or having that roltrex is the best idea.

People say that a j swap throws the weight off and makes it too front heavy but I don't agree. The j engines weight about 150lbs over the k20, that's it. So k20 turbo or supercharged would weight in the same ball park and I don't hear those guys complaining. And unlike most civic/Integra guys, the suspension is important not only for cornering fast, but for accelerating fast in a straight line too. So my car will have all supporting mods. A 68/32 or 70/30 weight distribution in the car isn't terrible.

To be honest, I'd like to go boost, but after seeing some of the pricing and lack if aftermarket support I'm not sure. If I could run a reasonable amount of boost "reliably" on stock components I'd probably try, but most of the guys who've replied here seem to be against it. I've done enough reading on this site that I read one line, I think from yungone, when he says, that buick 455 rods work for our engine, but they need to be machined to fit a piston. This I'm not sure on, but the pricing for those are Hella cheap compared to what other companies expect you to pay. He also said, which I'm sure of this time lol, that he would trust the oem j35a8 piston to hold 450whp reliably. Does this mean the j35a8 rods, rja rods, would hold 450whp too? What about the r9p rods?

So many questions, so very few answers

JwapDreams

Moving through power band from low/mid range higher would be awesome. This i did not know. Thanks yungone501

I do have some questions though. What throttle body am I using with this set up? And is it DBW or Cable?

And reliability is on the top of the list. My girlfriend is also going to be driving this because I know she'll love this car so much better than her 3g eclipse lol. I keep telling her it'll be slow but she loves the look, on top of it, I know I'm not gonna be missing any shifts, but her? It makes me scared lmao

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

For a daily driver, I think I'd stay N/A. I'm very much pro forced induction, but in a 2400lb Civic, I question the need. A 260 WHP Civic @ 2400lbs will easily run 110+ in the 1/4. How fast do you want to go? 400WHP is easily 120+. Personally, I think anything over 90 in the 1/8 is probably more than most people can use on a daily basis. I also vote for a straight up J35 or J32 (I'm not a proponent of either) but I think an OEM motor will give you much more reliability than a frankenstein build.

JwapDreams

Well, me plus the car is about 2600lbs lol. I'm a solid 200. Who needs to reduce weight in the car when I should reduce weight on myself lol.

How fast do I want to go? I'd say just fast enough. I'm not aiming for "super car" territory or having a drag strip car set up. I'm a pretty normal driver. How often to I WOT? Maybe once a month, just to hear my little D series. If the D series wasn't so small I'd think about modifying it because I honestly love the way it sounds, much deeper and less ricey than the DOHC engines. So in all, less than 20 times a year do I "beat" my car.

I really don't care about 1/4 mile time because I'll see the track twice a year tops. If the car put down 12-13 seconds I'd be happy enough with that, but again, that's not on slicks, but that would be a time I'd like to run with the Toyos. It doesn't matter to me if I gotta feather it all the way down the track, where the power is need though is probably from a roll. Does this mean I'm gonna be reckless and race on the highway? No. But it's nice to be able to move around in traffic without having to downshift, and when that one guy does want to race, be able to win. So basically, SRT4, SRT8s, EVOs, and Subies I'd like not to lose to (from a roll)

These are some pretty heavy demands lol, but I believe I'll probably find a good medium somewhere. Most likely n/a, but I'd like to get as much out of it as I can. I'd rather build an engine that's too powerful than an engine that's not powerful enough because that's time wasted. I don't think that n/a I'd reach a "too powerful" either because it's limited unlike FI builds.

There's a thread on here from a guy named JJ? At least that's the first half of his user. He got 291/277 I believe out of his TLS and it still got 34mpgs. That's pretty legit, but I think I can do better because I won't be using a single port head and the car is 1000lbs lighter.

accordlyfe

Why avoid the newer j series engines, are you speaking reliability wise?. I agree with what you guys have mentioned about the added torque the j35 + motors make... you would just be spinning in the civic

accordlyfe

IMO stick with a j32a3 swap, add intake, exhaust, and you should have a pretty quick civic just with that. Go from there and see if you want more power than that...
I think you should run mid to low 13s in the quarter with that set up, and still have a reliable set up.

JwapDreams

To complete the swap for the newer j series, one, it'd be more expensive with similar results, not very efficient, two, the DBW is an issue with a civic swap because it demands the correct ecu, harness, and pedal apparently. On top of this, I'm not sure if you can integrate the newer j series, j37a4 for example with civic harness and I don't believe there is any tuning for j37s other than aem, which is double the price of hondata.

It just seems not very cost effective. Would it be an awesome swap? Yeah, but the newer engines have the same or more torque as the older j35/j32 units. I'd still spin regardless

accordlyfe

Got it.. j32a3 ftw

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Andy Gerzina knows all

JwapDreams

I really wish the guy would stop by lol. I mean, look at the thread title!

The conversion isn't a problem for all you guys who have tls and cls lol. If you have DBW your ecu and pedal are all programed to run together but as far into as I've read, if it'd a j swap civic, it's easiest to reduce the headache just running the car with a DBC engine.

I'm currently trying to stay away from the j32a3 because as Yungone501 stated, heat properties. Not to mention I've read on my journey the j32a3 seems to be less reliable than its j32a2 counterpart (at least in terms of FI). I mean, of course you guys would recommend the j32a3, it is the third generation TL section I'm posting in lol.

To summarize this thread for any other enthusiasts out there, the debate is truly at this point about the torque of the engine in this chassis. To me, this isn't a drag car so I'm hardly ever going to WOT from a dig, so spinning 1-4th may happen, but not likely with me as the driver. The problem I'm thinking does in fact lie with the engine itself. I mean, it's a j swap, it's going to have a lot of torque that I can't put to the ground regardless if it's a j32a2 or j37a4.

The goal of any enthusiast is to build a car that's theirs. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and I personally would like to turn this into a life long hobby. I am 24 after all. Might as well learn sooner than later.

Also, hopefully this thread helps anyone like myself would needs a clear direction to go. I may be demanding but a compromise will be found.

Like I said before, personally I like the idea of "best bang for the buck". On top of that it needs to be "reliable". If it break I can fix it and start again, but I need a good place to start. I'd rather not start at the beginning because not only does that waste time, but also money. We don't live forever lol.

Like I said earlier.

-Oem is great (still unsure about turbo on oem parts)
-It's not a track or drag car, just a dd that wins the occasional race against upper class opponents
-This will have a full suspension with toyo ra1s

Is it overkill for a DD? Most definitely. But it's what I want to run lol. So maybe a better explaination would be an autox car that doesn't autox?

Yungone suggested j32a2 with supporting mods, j37 intake, but dbw is the issue here. Can someone elaborate?

I'm probably not going to do j32a3 because j32a2 seems like a better option, especially if I did for some reason decide to FI

Anyone got turbo advise? Maybe Gerzand would help!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, he's what I consider a close friend...and he's a wealth of knowledge...
but remember, he gets hit up by every Tom, Dick and Derp for EVERY question for the TL in various forms...
there's nothing in it for him except the kindness of his heart and patience and his love for the platform.
I'd suggest writing him a heartfelt facebook message asking for his opinion and maybe some guidance...
don't bs him, don't use him...if you're sincere and really want to get where you need to go, he'd be happy to help you figure it out.
Especially if some of that baller money can go toward a pretty amazing rotrex kit

JwapDreams

From what I've seen on here, back in 2009 it seemed like he was on here alot but then as the threads got newer he just faded away.

I'm tired of the BKFH swaps because those are in the past. People don't see it but I believe J swaps are the future of honda. Unless that is Honda actually comes out with a V8. I mean, who can hate someone making 300whp and 30+ mpg all motor? The stock blocks should handle well above 500+ no problem. On the top side they aren't even that heavy.

Civics and Integra already have mounts and axles from hasport, I just don't see why most people don't do it. I'd drive my civic around and Rep honda/acura and all my TL/CL brothers who don't get the love lol. (But not really, don't want my car to get stolen) but you get the point

I was this car to lay the hurt on the muscle, euro car scene. No one expects a little civic to put out x amount of power. If I can hit that magic number great. If the only way to do it is FI great. But what I enjoy most about this platform is its streetable. Show me a 300whp K20 all motor street csr. Not happening

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Fuck that, tub it and LS swap...
that's where it's at

LMAO...just kidding, that's probably TOO much power.
Yeah, he backed off Acurazine...he makes an appearance here and there...but he's mostly FB pages now...or a text away. He's a super smart guy, huge heart, very nice...stayed at his house when I flew up to Ohio to pick up a TL and drive it home. Then had a bbq when he was in town a few months later at my house. He's awesome.

JwapDreams

Lol. I would come to the dark side, but I haven't even experienced this side lmao. One side at a time

And idk, 300whp is a shit ton, it is for us daily folk, but when you're rolling up right to a guy who wants to race, and let's say they got a 2013 srt8, or 2015 mustang GT, or for fuck sakes, an 2005 SRT4, those are the kind of matches you don't want to lose. Is 300whp enough? Maybe (well, against that srt4 yes). But my car weight is totally off because I had an airhead moment. Between the weight of the j engine and tranny, and the dual exhaust system, it's looking more like instead of 2400, more like 2700-2800lbs. So it's not as like as you guys think it is.

I'm thinking the sweet spot I need to be is like 350-375whp, but all motor is gonna be close but not enough, and turbo on this motor is over kill because I'm either gonna choke a small turbo to death, or upgrade internals which I don't want to do. Which is why I've been asking for a safe whp limit on stock internals lol

JwapDreams

I'd probably want to run this on 93 because we actually have it where I'm at and we don't have smog or emissions testing. So yay, more stuff to think about.