A-113: Removal of Slave Cylinder check valve!!!
08-29-2009, 05:20 PM
#245
Three Wheelin'
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08-30-2009, 04:29 PM
#246
9th Gear
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Removing the Valve.
1. Remove unit from car or purchase replacement. Cost - $60-80 (If you are getting up there in mileage I would suggest purchasing a new one.)
2.Parts and tools needed - Mini hook set, DOT 3 fluid, Needle nose pliers, and something very thin to use to push the check valve out. I used a very small but long Allen wrench that I had.
3. Using the 90deg and the round hook I was able to remove the ring. I used the 90deg to hold the ring in place while I used the round hook to slide the ring from its locked position. The ring has a inward slope and an outward slope. Be careful not to let the ring shot off or do this some where you can find it easily.
Note - The ring removed
4. With the ring removed, I used the needle nose to remove the cap from the SC. It has to be worked out, so rock it a bit and it will come up and out.
Note- Ring and Cap
5. Removal of the check valve. I used a long Allen key that was very thin to fit into the hose feed side of the SC. As previously mentioned in another post, be careful not to hit the brass part of the fitting, it can damage it. This is why I used a very thin object.
6. With the check valve removed you can reassemble the SC. Start by putting the end cap back in and making sure it is fully seated back in the SC.
7. You will finally reinstall the ring. Install one side of it and use some needle nose to work the ring in. You may want to keep your finger over the ring so that if it slips it will not shot off.
I hope to get to install it on the car this weekend and will take pictures and write up the rest of the install.
1. Remove unit from car or purchase replacement. Cost - $60-80 (If you are getting up there in mileage I would suggest purchasing a new one.)
2.Parts and tools needed - Mini hook set, DOT 3 fluid, Needle nose pliers, and something very thin to use to push the check valve out. I used a very small but long Allen wrench that I had.
3. Using the 90deg and the round hook I was able to remove the ring. I used the 90deg to hold the ring in place while I used the round hook to slide the ring from its locked position. The ring has a inward slope and an outward slope. Be careful not to let the ring shot off or do this some where you can find it easily.
Note - The ring removed
4. With the ring removed, I used the needle nose to remove the cap from the SC. It has to be worked out, so rock it a bit and it will come up and out.
Note- Ring and Cap
5. Removal of the check valve. I used a long Allen key that was very thin to fit into the hose feed side of the SC. As previously mentioned in another post, be careful not to hit the brass part of the fitting, it can damage it. This is why I used a very thin object.
6. With the check valve removed you can reassemble the SC. Start by putting the end cap back in and making sure it is fully seated back in the SC.
7. You will finally reinstall the ring. Install one side of it and use some needle nose to work the ring in. You may want to keep your finger over the ring so that if it slips it will not shot off.
I hope to get to install it on the car this weekend and will take pictures and write up the rest of the install.
Black_05_TL_6SP, I hope you dont mind, I posted your write up on www.8thcivic.com and I added some other things to it too. If you do mind, I'll remove it right away! Here's the link
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...er-damper.html
, he seems like a nice fella
this thread
08-31-2009, 12:08 PM
#253
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ok so i did this mod yesterday thinking it would keep my clutch from slipping at high rpm quick shifts, not that it always does it or anything but once in a while i can tell it slips. after driving it for a day i can honestly say ive noticed nothing, whats going on here guys i know i did it right it was so easy a caveman could do it.
08-31-2009, 02:02 PM
#255
Ryan Christopher
I just did this to my 07 Civic Si and its amazing!!! Thanks to the OP for doing this mod and thanks to Black_05_TL_6SP for the more involved write up!!
Black_05_TL_6SP, I hope you dont mind, I posted your write up on www.8thcivic.com and I added some other things to it too. If you do mind, I'll remove it right away! Here's the link
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...er-damper.html
Black_05_TL_6SP, I hope you dont mind, I posted your write up on www.8thcivic.com and I added some other things to it too. If you do mind, I'll remove it right away! Here's the link
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/do-yo...er-damper.html
Glad you are enjoying it the way it should have been!
08-31-2009, 02:23 PM
#256
ok so i did this mod yesterday thinking it would keep my clutch from slipping at high rpm quick shifts, not that it always does it or anything but once in a while i can tell it slips. after driving it for a day i can honestly say ive noticed nothing, whats going on here guys i know i did it right it was so easy a caveman could do it.
08-31-2009, 05:01 PM
#257
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ok, just like I've said countless times, and I've explained the whole process of what happens from ur pedal to ur clutch disc...you cannot lose anything from doing this (removing the checkvalve) you can only gain..and if you don't, its due to a couple of reasons...
1-your clutch has been beat and abused beyond its tolerance. its very easy to glaze and heat spot the PP and FW, and once that happens, there's nothing u can do to fix it, (unless u change them out)
2-you didn't fully bleed your clutch
3-you're a beginner driving manual, (this is by no means to offend anyone, we were all beginners at one point)
1-your clutch has been beat and abused beyond its tolerance. its very easy to glaze and heat spot the PP and FW, and once that happens, there's nothing u can do to fix it, (unless u change them out)
2-you didn't fully bleed your clutch
3-you're a beginner driving manual, (this is by no means to offend anyone, we were all beginners at one point)
08-31-2009, 07:01 PM
#259
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Ok, just like I've said countless times, and I've explained the whole process of what happens from ur pedal to ur clutch disc...you cannot lose anything from doing this (removing the checkvalve) you can only gain..and if you don't, its due to a couple of reasons...
1-your clutch has been beat and abused beyond its tolerance. its very easy to glaze and heat spot the PP and FW, and once that happens, there's nothing u can do to fix it, (unless u change them out)
2-you didn't fully bleed your clutch
3-you're a beginner driving manual, (this is by no means to offend anyone, we were all beginners at one point)
1-your clutch has been beat and abused beyond its tolerance. its very easy to glaze and heat spot the PP and FW, and once that happens, there's nothing u can do to fix it, (unless u change them out)
2-you didn't fully bleed your clutch
3-you're a beginner driving manual, (this is by no means to offend anyone, we were all beginners at one point)
. Opel, i know you have the Spec clutch but which stage and what kind of preasure plate, also i heard the spec clutches are just refurbished stockies with a higher performance surface, let me know whats up.
08-31-2009, 07:57 PM
#260
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
dont bother with spec...im actually gonna call them and get on their fucking case...they promised me that the PP was modified and reenforced to a higher clamping force...my ass!!! so unless they've changed something...dont bother with them. i dont believe in a modified self adjusting PP...Hi-Per PP shouldn't be self adjust, not on our cars!
i got the stage 3+ which comes with a 6 puck unsprung ceramic dick and the PP... stock FW
yesterday i went to the track, i couldn't even run...slipping the whole way down the track...it was funny when id come around, ppl thought i wasn't catching traction lol....but eitehr way, pissed me the fuck off.
i got the stage 3+ which comes with a 6 puck unsprung ceramic dick and the PP... stock FW
yesterday i went to the track, i couldn't even run...slipping the whole way down the track...it was funny when id come around, ppl thought i wasn't catching traction lol....but eitehr way, pissed me the fuck off.
08-31-2009, 10:49 PM
#263
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
09-01-2009, 07:08 PM
#265
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only one small, minor problem.....he lives in FL...and my clutch fluid might be alittle hot by the time i got there lol....i live in queens as well....do you have a shop or garage?
09-01-2009, 07:46 PM
#266
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
but since the accord uses a different transmission wouldnt it use a different clutch as well?
09-03-2009, 01:34 PM
#270
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
09-03-2009, 10:19 PM
#271
PCM full of water, yummy
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One of the best mods I've done. Thanks Opel, I've wondered where the stupid check valve was for a long time.
Everyone else, as far as getting the o-ring out... Get your wife/significant other to do it. I spent 10 minutes trying to get it out, got pissed, told the wife to get the dremel, and she actually brought it to me (surprisingly), she started bitching about cutting up her car again and asked what I was trying to do. I showed her and 30 seconds later she hands me the o-ring and says "is this what you wanted out?" I just hung my head in shame...
Clutch feels like it should. I don't need to turn off the VSA to drive smoothly now.
Everyone else, as far as getting the o-ring out... Get your wife/significant other to do it. I spent 10 minutes trying to get it out, got pissed, told the wife to get the dremel, and she actually brought it to me (surprisingly), she started bitching about cutting up her car again and asked what I was trying to do. I showed her and 30 seconds later she hands me the o-ring and says "is this what you wanted out?"
I just hung my head in shame...Clutch feels like it should. I don't need to turn off the VSA to drive smoothly now.
09-08-2009, 08:34 PM
#274
i completed this mod 1 1/2 months ago.. this mod is worth every penny! but today when i was driving.. i shifted from 2nd to 3rd and pow! no clutch pressure. i pulled to the side and opened the hood. the cap is gone! the locking ring was in place correctly when i mounted the slave back in place initially. luckly i was just down the street from my house.. i hope this doesnt happen to anyone.. now i have to wait until tomorrow to get another slave cylinder from the dealer. and i will do this mod again..
09-08-2009, 09:50 PM
#276
PCM full of water, yummy
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I don't understand how this would happen. I don't think I would even need the locking ring.... when I put the cap back on, it was tighter than it was when my wife took it off. Are you sure it didn't get bent when you put it back on???
09-09-2009, 07:59 AM
#278
Ryan Christopher
Did you grind down or cut the metal where the ring seats? I did the whole process without any cutting or grinding. Doing this degrades the integrity of the metal that is designed to hold the Hydraulic force that is generated by pushing the pedal. Most of the force is directed to the push rod, but some of this force is sent to the sealer cap and then to the ring. If the metal has been cut, it can allow for it to flex out releasing the ring thus allowing the cap to come out. I see more issue with cutting a grove into it as this will allow the metal to flex out.
For future installs, I would suggest everyone use a pick set (or something similar) to remove the ring without modifying the slave cylinder itself.
This is just my thoughts on this. I did the entire install without cutting into the SC. It took a bit more time (not really that much), but is well worth the piece of mind.
This is a great mod and I have been enjoying it every time I drive the car. I would love to see a 1/4 mile time from someone that has run in the past before the mod, and then again after the mod. I have a feeling this would shave 2-3 tenths of the time (.2-.3 sec). The delay in the shift is no longer there and you are putting full power to the ground as soon as you let the clutch out.
For future installs, I would suggest everyone use a pick set (or something similar) to remove the ring without modifying the slave cylinder itself.
This is just my thoughts on this. I did the entire install without cutting into the SC. It took a bit more time (not really that much), but is well worth the piece of mind.
This is a great mod and I have been enjoying it every time I drive the car. I would love to see a 1/4 mile time from someone that has run in the past before the mod, and then again after the mod. I have a feeling this would shave 2-3 tenths of the time (.2-.3 sec). The delay in the shift is no longer there and you are putting full power to the ground as soon as you let the clutch out.
09-09-2009, 04:59 PM
#279
I tend to agree that it's better to do it without cutting the channel I did...but if you check the picture, the groove is so thin the ring isn't going to flex from it. If that was the case they would have to make the ring solid to avoid the ring itself from flexing and popping itself out.
Trust me...I tried patience, and even went and bought a new pick set, to no avail. If you can do it without...sweet...but I almost gave up on this mod because of that little ring.
Either way, I don't see why the thing would be pushing itself, or fluids out the back end. Maybe the person having trouble should just bite the bullet and buy a new one and start over! I even ended up hammering the hole inside the slave because I misunderstood being able to push the checkvalve out from the other side and I was able to just redrill the aluminum and even with that eff up I haven't had an issue since doing it.
Trust me...I tried patience, and even went and bought a new pick set, to no avail. If you can do it without...sweet...but I almost gave up on this mod because of that little ring.
Either way, I don't see why the thing would be pushing itself, or fluids out the back end. Maybe the person having trouble should just bite the bullet and buy a new one and start over! I even ended up hammering the hole inside the slave because I misunderstood being able to push the checkvalve out from the other side and I was able to just redrill the aluminum and even with that eff up I haven't had an issue since doing it.
09-09-2009, 09:54 PM
#280
Did you grind down or cut the metal where the ring seats? I did the whole process without any cutting or grinding. Doing this degrades the integrity of the metal that is designed to hold the Hydraulic force that is generated by pushing the pedal. Most of the force is directed to the push rod, but some of this force is sent to the sealer cap and then to the ring. If the metal has been cut, it can allow for it to flex out releasing the ring thus allowing the cap to come out. I see more issue with cutting a grove into it as this will allow the metal to flex out.
For future installs, I would suggest everyone use a pick set (or something similar) to remove the ring without modifying the slave cylinder itself.
This is just my thoughts on this. I did the entire install without cutting into the SC. It took a bit more time (not really that much), but is well worth the piece of mind.
This is a great mod and I have been enjoying it every time I drive the car. I would love to see a 1/4 mile time from someone that has run in the past before the mod, and then again after the mod. I have a feeling this would shave 2-3 tenths of the time (.2-.3 sec). The delay in the shift is no longer there and you are putting full power to the ground as soon as you let the clutch out.
For future installs, I would suggest everyone use a pick set (or something similar) to remove the ring without modifying the slave cylinder itself.
This is just my thoughts on this. I did the entire install without cutting into the SC. It took a bit more time (not really that much), but is well worth the piece of mind.
This is a great mod and I have been enjoying it every time I drive the car. I would love to see a 1/4 mile time from someone that has run in the past before the mod, and then again after the mod. I have a feeling this would shave 2-3 tenths of the time (.2-.3 sec). The delay in the shift is no longer there and you are putting full power to the ground as soon as you let the clutch out.
to the OP!