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Old 08-21-2017, 12:26 AM
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'07 TL Brake Kit Ideas

Does anyone have suggestions on what they believe is the best street/ track/ race brake kit with caliber set-up? I plan to do this as a DIY, so i'm up for suggestions as I'm new to this. I know that brakes' performance differs on temp/ size, etc.
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:29 AM
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RL set up works well with 350 z rotors
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:11 PM
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Im trying to come up with a Brembo 2 POT setup for the rear. The TLS Brembos up front and RL upgrade are the best for our vehicles.
Still checking on what Brembo caliper will be easier to use. Either STI/ EVO 9-10/350Z/etc...
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:15 PM
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with retrofitting the other cars rear BBK, the stock TL's parking brake would have to be deleted, as the drum is in the rear
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Old 08-24-2017, 04:43 PM
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Not when you make a custom bracket to fit the caliper over the existing TL rotor.
I should have one mocked up by the end of the year when I 3D print the bracket. Then I will setup a group buy.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:09 AM
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Question Pleaaaaaaaaaaase tag

Originally Posted by Hugo2go View Post
Not when you make a custom bracket to fit the caliper over the existing TL rotor.<br />I should have one mocked up by the end of the year when I 3D print the bracket. Then I will setup a group buy.
<br /><br />Since you are introducing more heat/torque to the rear brakes why would you keep the existing rotor size and not increase it a little???
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:36 AM
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Why bother with the rear brakes at all? The thing is, the TL is a nose heavy FWD car (meaning upwards of 70% of the braking forces come from the front brakes) and the rear brakes are already an exercise in excess capacity. I'm betting if you take 100 TLs with the front Brembo brakes, and perform repetitive emergency stops until nearing front brake failure, the rear brakes will still be providing all the stopping force which is safe. Remember, if the rear brakes lock up, the odds of an uncontrollable disastrous spin are extremely high.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:38 AM
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upsetting front biased braking!
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Old 10-12-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Tebaz06TL View Post
Since you are introducing more heat/torque to the rear brakes why would you keep the existing rotor size and not increase it a little???
Unless your road racing you will not see a significant difference in the braking. And in regards to heat and torque, again if you are daily driving you will be ok.
Brake bias will not be an issue since the car will not be seeing speeds of 150mph +.
If anyone wants to contest this, show me some racing articles about it.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Hugo2go View Post
Unless your road racing you will not see a significant difference in the braking. And in regards to heat and torque, again if you are daily driving you will be ok.
Brake bias will not be an issue since the car will not be seeing speeds of 150mph +.
If anyone wants to contest this, show me some racing articles about it.
Brake bias can and will be an issue during an emergency maneuver while braking, especially if the roads aren't perfectly dry. It has nothing to do with racing.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:42 AM
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To each there own Horseshoez
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Hugo2go View Post
To each there own Horseshoez
Ummm, what? FWIW, what I've stated isn't opinion, it is physics. Whether you believe it or not is irrelevant, the laws of physics don't care.
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:49 PM
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You definitely do not want more braking power in the back. The brembos fronts are enough. Especially during any kind of sideways emergency situations, such as sudden lane changes from a moron cutting you off, dead/alive animals, and snow.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:10 AM
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If you're looking for a solid brake setup without going too hard on the wallet you could get an aggressive pad, a vented rotor (to help disperse a little bit of that heat), stainless steel lines, and some new brake fluid. If you want to stick with the caliper you have and get the most out of it, here's what I'd recommend...

Pads: StopTech Brake Pads - Sport Series - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Rotors: StopTech Brake Rotors - Sport Slotted - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Lines: XLR8 Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Fluid (for a track oriented car): 100949 - Motul Brake Fluid - RBF 600 - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Fluid (for street oriented car): 100951 - Motul Brake Fluid - DOT 5.1 - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!

The proper setup on the OEM calipers can go a long way, but if it's a designated track car then you may be better served with a big brake kit since the cars are on the heavier side, it'll be a stronger caliper, and the larger rotor can take more heat. If that's the case, it just so happens we have some XLR8/StopTech BBKs on clearance.

Good luck & happy modding!
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:01 PM
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TL’s have electronic brake bias as part of the traction control system. Any changes to rear brakes will upset that balance.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:04 PM
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Old 11-24-2017, 12:19 PM
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What about Rears?

Originally Posted by ExcelerateRep View Post
If you're looking for a solid brake setup without going too hard on the wallet you could get an aggressive pad, a vented rotor (to help disperse a little bit of that heat), stainless steel lines, and some new brake fluid. If you want to stick with the caliper you have and get the most out of it, here's what I'd recommend...

Pads: StopTech Brake Pads - Sport Series - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Rotors: StopTech Brake Rotors - Sport Slotted - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Lines: XLR8 Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Fluid (for a track oriented car): 100949 - Motul Brake Fluid - RBF 600 - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!
Fluid (for street oriented car): 100951 - Motul Brake Fluid - DOT 5.1 - Excelerate Performance - European, Exotic and Japanese Performance Specialists!!

The proper setup on the OEM calipers can go a long way, but if it's a designated track car then you may be better served with a big brake kit since the cars are on the heavier side, it'll be a stronger caliper, and the larger rotor can take more heat. If that's the case, it just so happens we have some XLR8/StopTech BBKs on clearance.

Good luck & happy modding!
If upgrading the pads/rotors/lines and fluid on the fronts for a street car is it recommended to change out the rear rotors to slotted with pads as well or does it matter?

Thanks!!
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Old 11-24-2017, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by viking00 View Post
If upgrading the pads/rotors/lines and fluid on the fronts for a street car is it recommended to change out the rear rotors to slotted with pads as well or does it matter?

Thanks!!
It doesn't matter. Technically you will get your best stopping power with solid blank rotors all the way around; changing the fronts to slotted will nominally reduce your braking power.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez View Post
It doesn't matter. Technically you will get your best stopping power with solid blank rotors all the way around; changing the fronts to slotted will nominally reduce your braking power.

How does changing to slotted rotors up front reduce the amount of braking power? I can see drilled AND slotted. But slotted should net you better braking/stopping distances. When I changed from blanks to slotted, the car stopped a lot better.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadow2056 View Post
How does changing to slotted rotors up front reduce the amount of braking power? I can see drilled AND slotted. But slotted should net you better braking/stopping distances. When I changed from blanks to slotted, the car stopped a lot better.
It's simple physics; there is less surface area which in turn means there is less "swept area". In racing applications where coping with "out gassing" is an issue, slotted and/or cross drilled rotors help, but for road cars, no, not at all.
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Old 11-26-2017, 01:10 PM
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I'll have to look that up some more. From all the researched I've done, drilled and slotted are a waste for a DD. Slotted were best for those who were "spirited" drivers and wanted a little bit better braking performance. From the times I've used slotted rotors, they've been better in braking than the blanks I've had.
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Old 11-26-2017, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadow2056 View Post
I'll have to look that up some more. From all the researched I've done, drilled and slotted are a waste for a DD. Slotted were best for those who were "spirited" drivers and wanted a little bit better braking performance. From the times I've used slotted rotors, they've been better in braking than the blanks I've had.
How can you possibly qualify such a statement?
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Old 11-26-2017, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez View Post
How can you possibly qualify such a statement?

Originally Posted by PowerStop
Slotted rotors do not improve any heat transfer. However, the slots can improve brake output by removing gas and dust that is trapped between the pad and rotor. This gas and dust reduces the friction force by preventing the pad from fully contacting the rotor. Given the choice between drill holes and slots, the drill holes will give you better braking power over slots for normal city/highway driving. This is why high end BMW, Porsche, Corvette, and Mercedes rotors are drilled, not slotted. However, for track racing (high speed stops), slotted rotors are the better choice.
Originally Posted by Brembo
The unique cross-drilled or slotted finish is another exclusive Brembo feature which improves braking consistency by dissipating the heat generated and gas released as the pads come into contact with the discs, keeping the pad surface both cool and clean.
Both cross drilling and slots interrupt the water film forming when driving in the wet for improved brake response.
This effect is most evident with cross-drilled discs, due to the different solid/hollow ratio of the surface and the possibility for water to flow through the ventilation holes.
Says both PowerStop and Brembo. The slotted and/or drilled amount to better braking. If either choice was pointless, BMW and Benz won't have it on their models. Mercedes actually has it on a LOT of their models. Even the lower trims like the C250/350. I'm not here to argue. I'm just trying to figure out how you say that neither slotted or drilled will give any kind of better braking.
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Old 11-26-2017, 02:47 PM
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Meh, marketing bilge, the fact is, modern pads don't outgas like they did say 20 or more years ago, and certainly not when used in non-track applications. The fact is, solid blanks will give you the best stopping power for road applications. Like it or don't believe it or not, I really don't care.
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:14 PM
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What I also like about blanks are that they are basically like mirrors and look so bling when walking at it from a distance. The slotted and drilled tend to rust and reduce this bling affect.
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Old 11-27-2017, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Shadow2056 View Post
Says both PowerStop and Brembo. The slotted and/or drilled amount to better braking. If either choice was pointless, BMW and Benz won't have it on their models. Mercedes actually has it on a LOT of their models. Even the lower trims like the C250/350. I'm not here to argue. I'm just trying to figure out how you say that neither slotted or drilled will give any kind of better braking.
it is marketing.
you possibly CANNOT tell the difference between a blank and slotted. the slotted rotors just look cool
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:02 PM
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I don't know if this should warrant a new forum, but anyway, it's almost time to replace the rotors on my 2007 Type S. They were machined about 2-3 years ago and now need to be replaced because the car vibrates when braking between about 60km/h and 80km/h. The brake pads were replaced 2-3 years ago and have lots of life left.

After reading up on slotted/drilled vs blanks, it's likely I'll just go with blanks especially if differences in braking performance is minimal for my daily driver and I'm not an overly aggressive driver (i.e., I like to brake early when coming to a stop). There's also some cost considerations as well. My mechanic here in Calgary can get OE replacement front and rear rotors for CAD360 (USD271). That should be cheaper than dealer price, although I haven't had a chance to call an Acura dealer yet.

With that said, any recommendations on what rotor options to get? Should I just get the front rotors replaced first? Should I just go with OE or do the PowerStop, Centric, StopTech, Raybestos, etc. blanks provide better braking performance for the same cost as/lower cost than OEs?
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