Got my lightweight/stock diameter pulley installed yesterday, took me about hour and half, seems fairly easy and straight forward to me.

This DIY can be used for underdrive pulley install and on any 3G TL. Installer takes full responsibility of his/her work.

Tools:
Floor Jack
3 car stands
Breaker bar
Heavy duty 1" ratchet and socket set
Size 10,14,17,19 sockets
1/2" ratchet
Flat head screwdriver
Air Impact Wrench

NOTE: use thicker extensions for breaker bar, dont use any light weight tools, think heavy duty work. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of their jumbo heavy duty socket set.
Here's the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...set-95377.html


So here we go...

Jack up the whole front of the car and secure it on two stands. Remove passenger wheel. Turn wheels all the way to the right for more play room. Use the jack after to raise the engine just slightly (about 1/4") just so the engine can rest on the jack, I put the jack under the oil pan using a 2x4 board as a spacer not to dent the oil pan.




After you have your car raised up, remove this plastic cover that covers the pulley. It is attached with 2 plastic clips. Pull it down and under the engine to get it out of your way.




This will uncover the oem pulley.




Pop the hood open. Remove the plastic cover to get to the drive belt. You will need to take off the engine mount, reason is cause you dont end up ripping it when you taking off the pulley. Movement or the force of unbolting the crank bolt have many azine members leaving with ripped engine mounts. Move the power steering fill up tank to the side. Also the drive belt will be off as well.
When I did my install I took off the drive belt first than the engine mount, thats why the drive belt is gone in the pictures, but take the engine mount off first you will have more room to take the belt off.




To remove the engine mount, Unbolt the 2 bolts that attach the engine mount to the frame with size 17 socket, 2 bolts that attach the engine mount to the engine with size 14 socket, and one bolt that attaches the ground wire with size 10 socket.




2 bolts that hold the engine mount to the engine unbolted..




Engine mount removed. Inspect the engine mount for cracks, if any visible, this be good time to replace the mount.




View of engine mount removed.




After you took the engine mount off.
Take size 14 socket and 1/2" ratchet. Slide it over the drive belt tensioner roller bolt like this.




Slide a breaker bar/pipe over the ratchet and push it forward to release the tensioner and loosen up the drive belt.







Drive belt off..
Dont pull out the drive belt all the way, just release it off the oem crank pulley, and leave it hanging inside the engine bay.






Now back to the pulley..
Attach the crank pulley tool like this, with 1/2" ratchet pressing against the lower control arm of the suspension. Making sure the pulley doesnt rotate to the left.
Before you install the crank pulley tool, take a heavy weight hammer and hammer down on the center of the the pulley bolt, to slightly loose up the tension of the bolt.



Here are mine breaker bar extensions with car stand as support in the middle.




While pushing down on the breaker bar, use hammer to hammer down on the breaker bar to break down the bolt.
If pushing down on the breaker bar wont work, rotate the breaker bar to the front of the car, that way you have more force of using your legs pulling that breaker bar to unbolt that pulley bolt.



My extensions snapped.. so use heavy duty tools as I mentions before...



Got this heavy duty set from harbor freight..




OEM pulley out..



oem and light weight pulley comparison...



new lightweight pulley installed...
bolt it back up with air impact wrench tool.
Assemble everything back up. Dont forget your install your engine mount.
Alight the drive belt and double check proper orientation of the belt.
Go for test drive, results of light weight pulley noticeable around 1500-4000rpm

 

you da man, vlad!

select. copy. print selected area.

i'll be putting this to good use in the next week.

mods, STICKY THIS DIY!

 

WOW THANKS. saved for future reference for sure!

 

where did you get the "crank pulley tool" ?

 

^you can get it from honda.

it's a "honda crank pulley removal tool"

 

^correct!
or anywhere online..
EBAY... http://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-Honda-A...item4aaad6063a
I borrowed it from my buddy

 

where did u get the black windshield washer cap and A emblem? or is that another diy?

 

Vik stfu

lol

i told you next time im down in cali ill plastidip your whole car.

 

vlad is becoming one of my new favoritest guy on the 'zine

 

Nice writeup. Is the difference really that dramatic?

 

Not dramatic, but worth the bucks. Before as I pushed on the gas and engine rpm sorta felt heavy and sluggish.. Now it feels like its so easy on the revs... the lightweigth pully releases some of the power that the heavy oem pulley was preserving because of its weight..

 

forgot to add the honda crank pulley removal tool to the tool list...

and a fresh/cold

 

Vlads always been the 'favorite guy' for this type of stuff ..no homo

if he's done a mod that i haven't done then i go to him. same thing if he hasn't done a mod i did like this pulley(i week ago) or the 3x3 redline and switches (I'm sure we will see new threads of this and more soon).

i just do stuff myself and help him out but he goes above and beyond for the azine community and does all these DIYs. great guy! =D

Vlad txted u pix of my pulleys and their weight

 

these were provided to me by member "vic06b"
as you can tell big difference in weight (oz)

OEM (7lb. 13.8oz)



vs.

UR Lightweight Pulley (15.2oz)

 

I think you had grams on the first one, ounces on the second? The stock pulley can't be 44lbs...is it?

 

^correction:
oem pulley: 7lb. 13.8oz that is 125.8oz total

vs.

UR Lightweight underdrive pulley: 15.2oz total

 

nice write up. When I had a guy do my timing belt, we broke a lot of tools. In the end we had to heat up the bolt and then it came off easy. But I forgot to install the pulley I had at that time and now I sold the car so I have an underdrive pulley and a belt just sitting in my room.

 

thanks.
ah if only i knew i would of bought it from u ...
you should sell it if you not gonna use it, they go off the market quick!

 

Thanks for this! Just got my UR lightweight pulley in the mail yesterday, looking forward to getting it installed. Then it's time to pony up the cash for HFPCs!

 

This is vlad and I on the daily thinking what to do next. Once we of something we to each other till we got a bossy plan. Before we start we & . Shortly after we & on the TL until we are both , & from ing at the car for so long. When all is done we go till we both go with . After a long hard day of ing we both feel like . So then couple days later the amazing A'zine Community gets to see a thread of our 'work of art' and all they want but we just & say to the s then go all night long!

Hope you guys like this little thing i put together

This is a translation to the ones not used to using smiles or just like life the easy way:

This is vlad and I on the daily pondering and thinking what to do next. Once we think of something we talk and text to each other till we got a bossy plan. Before we start we eat pizza and coffee. Shortly after we work and curse on the TL until we are both happy, satisfied and drunk from poking at the car for so long. When all is done we go driving till we both go crazy with vtec. After a long hard day of chugging we both feel like rockstars. So then couple days later the amazing A'zine Community gets to see a thread of our 'work of art' and clap, bow, agree, disagree, etc... all they want but we just chill and say fk you to the haters then go party all night long!

 

nice write up...this will def cm in handy f me in the future

 

Garaged:

A-098: DIY: UR Crank Pulley info
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153549
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836369

 

Wow Vlad-well done, my man!

 

Nice write up...might do this down the road who knows

 

Thanks to all.
I'm glad some can find this DIY helpful for now or near future.
If you run into a dead end PM me and Id be glad to answer any questions you got regarding this install.
Drive safe!

 

Just wanted to add in, I had UR Pulleys (crank underdrive, PS and alt) on my accord for about 110k miles without any problems. This is a great mod that will free up some HP and get you better gas mileage!

 

for those of you who do not want to do the diy, i took mine to a local shop and they charged me $60 to have this done

 

thank you !! makes me wanna order one to install it myself haha

 

You know it's really funny.... You guys on this forum will sit there an endlessly nit-pick which oil might make your motor .01% better, but then you go and throw the crankshaft damper out. WTF?

 

hmm...?

 

How did this thread die here?!?!
94eg, please elaborate!

I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, everyone seems to unanimously agree that it's worth it.

 

Well a crankshaft is like a spring. During every ignition, it's mass (plus the flywheel's mass) tries to resist the the force being placed directly into the rod journal. This causes a slight twist in the crankshaft throw which then springs back in the opposite direction. This is called torsional harmonic vibration



The further away the rod journal is from the flywheel, the greater the twist & rebound effect (like a softer spring). Now the shape & mass of the crankshaft has a natural resonant frequency. When combined with a specific rpm range, the harmonic vibration can become amplified. This is where the oil pump & bearing & crank failures occour (or so the story goes). The OEM harmonic damper is made to work in that specific rpm window. It features a dual mass separated by a rubber isolator. The outer mass resists the back & forth motion of the inner mass thereby controlling it. Of course a by-product of this is a reduction in NVH as well.

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...cation_id=5064



Now you will find that most race cars don't use lightweight pulleys. They typially reduce rotational mass via a lightweight flywheel. On the pulley side you tend to find elaborate crank dampers such as Fluidyne or ATi. These aftermarket dampers are capable of controlling crank harmonics in a much broader rpm range. I belive ATi is renowned for having the best high-rpm damper being used by every Nascar team (or so I've heard ). Either way I have not seen 1 single race engine builder that recommends non-damped pulleys.

So that's the story. Take it for what it's worth. There is a lot of info out there, but just as many people saying "I ran a LWCP for xxxx miles without a problem". For me there is just no reason to risk it.

 

I ran a lw pulley for a while and could feel a difference. When I decided to install the turbo and knew I would be needing a new clutch, I put the stock pulley back on and have a lwfw ready to go on as soon as my stock clutch gives up.

I am relieved. There is a huge debate on both sides but I read things as posted above and it would haunt me.

 

Thanks for that eg...I read somewhere that the pulley on our car specifically does NOT act as a harmonic balancer? Now you got me thinkin...

 

It definitely is a harmonic damper. 100% without a doubt.

 

So is everyone nuts for even considering this?!!? Is this that you posted above something that might be applicable to a different application like a big V8 or something? Just wondering why I haven't read more about the dangers of it, definitely not doubting you, I know you know your stuff.

 

It's been debated in other threads and the conclusion for most are the people selling these making claims that 200K miles with no problems is justification to install it.

But like I said, all the reading I have done says it's dealing with the inherent design of the crank and the need to offset the harmonics. With my big increase in power, I thought it was more important than ever to have it. Maybe it's not so big an impact for a stock motor but you have to ask yourself why it's there in the first place.

 

I've been on Honda-Tech for about 8 years now. This debate was hashed out there in the road-race/autocross forum many times way back when. Also Larry Whidmer of Endyn helped Fluidamper develop their Honda applications, and I was around TheOldOne forums for that too. As a long time race engine builder, he says he would never run sans crank-damper. That was always good enough for me.

Here on Acurazine folks are a little isolated. Not much community support for the TL.

BTW: Here is an image of the TL crank pulley. You can see the rubber isolator separating the inner & outer mass. Just like the Gates image I posted above.

 

I appreciate all the responses and please forgive my ignorance, but for someone that moderately drives the car most of the time and gets on it every now and again, what would the side effects or potential hazards be?!?! Crank pulley failure?!?! Shredding the belt? Additional vibrations!?! OR worse?

 

Worse. :o

*waits for Dave to come in here lol*