What system r u bumpin' to?
04-04-2012, 10:17 AM
#1
What system r u bumpin' to?
i wanna get a pretty good music system for my car... but i have no idea what door speakers, amps, or bass to get.... i used to have a acura integer and i had 2 old school alpine amps with a 12inch kicker, 2 pioneer speakers in the doors, and 2 6x9 pioneers in the rear enclosed..but that was on a custom pioneer radio..did u guys switch the radio? what systems r u running on???
04-04-2012, 10:20 AM
#3
Take a look in the audio section and see what others have done.
most people that give advice in this section are audiophiles.
They like brands that are not as mainstream, as well, the mainstream stuffs.
Please get educated by reading other threads.
it will apply to you.
most people that give advice in this section are audiophiles.
They like brands that are not as mainstream, as well, the mainstream stuffs.
Please get educated by reading other threads.
it will apply to you.
04-04-2012, 02:54 PM
#5
Team Owner
Many popular brands. I use Dynaudio for the 3-way fronts, a pair of AE IB15 subs and everything powered by a pair of JL HD amps. If I had it to do over again the only thing I would change is the MS8. Sometimes I wish I had never gotten it.
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justnspace (04-04-2012)
04-04-2012, 03:54 PM
#8
funniest part of that thread is how many other people in pakistan said they did the same thing, man looking at that forum makes you realize how lucky we are as Americans to be able to afford the cars we can
Last edited by joelmatt89; 04-04-2012 at 03:57 PM.
04-04-2012, 04:10 PM
#9
^^^ word...thanks for the input guys..im looking into those dynaudio estosar for the front speakers ..dont know the price range yet..and a pair some jl w7 for bass and leaving the back speakers alone...and 2 jl audio 1000 watt for bass and voice...by any means criticize this setup please...
04-04-2012, 04:13 PM
#10
^^^ word...thanks for the input guys..im looking into those dynaudio estosar for the front speakers ..dont know the price range yet..and a pair some jl w7 for bass and leaving the back speakers alone...and 2 jl audio 1000 watt for bass and voice...by any means criticize this setup please...
04-04-2012, 04:13 PM
#11
thought these were only for voice?
04-04-2012, 05:45 PM
#13
Team Owner
Retail for the e430 (3.5") is $1,600
Retail for the 110 (tweeter) is around $1,600 I think.
FWIW, I don't know of anyone that pays retail for speakers.
I'm running the Esotar 650 and 430 and the Esotec 102 tweeter. I haven't decided if I am willing to either cut the dash to fit them or pillar mount them which would make them really visible to theives. The Esotar tweeter is as big as the midrange, it's huge.
The 650 and 110 make a great 2-way system. The 650 plays low and loud but it reproduces extremely life like vocals and midrange. The 110 tweeter is just perfection in the setups I've heard. The 430 is arguably the best midrange in existence. It measured with the flattest frequency response, 0.25% or less total harmonic distortion, and won the blind midrange subjective shootout.
I would contact Jerry (Niebur3 on here) if the retail price scares you away. He's the best dealer I've ever done business with and his prices are competitive to say the least.
I still haven't heard a setup that reproduces music as life like as Dynaudio, especially vocals and they will take a ton of power while sounding great.
The W7 is one of my favorite subs. I think it's an excellent choice. Not cheap but it does so many things well.
As for amps, there are so many choices. If you want to stick with JL, you can do the older but very good Slash amps or the newer HD amps. I run an HD600/4 (150x4) to the midbass and mids and there's not enough power to hurt them but they get painfully loud. I use an HD900/5 for the subs and tweeters. It puts out 100x4 and 500w to the subs. My subs are infinite baffle so no enclosure which means they require very little power to get loud. The 500w sub section is more than enough to flex the roof if needed.
I would decide on the sub and enclosure before making the decision on a sub amp. If you went IB with a 12W7, 500w would be more than enough. If you went sealed you would probably want 1,000w. Ported, it's your call, it will get loud on 300w but will take the full thermal rating if you really like your bass.
No speakers in the rear but I did have 75w going to the stock rears years ago and they sounded surprisingly good with the extra power. I had to highpass them at 120hz or they would bottom out if I turned them up.
I'm just throwing stuff out there, people like Jerry could tailor your system to your particular needs.
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SSMTL21 (04-04-2012)
04-04-2012, 06:08 PM
#14
Retail for the e650 (6.5") is $1,000.
Retail for the e430 (3.5") is $1,600
Retail for the 110 (tweeter) is around $1,600 I think.
FWIW, I don't know of anyone that pays retail for speakers.
I'm running the Esotar 650 and 430 and the Esotec 102 tweeter. I haven't decided if I am willing to either cut the dash to fit them or pillar mount them which would make them really visible to theives. The Esotar tweeter is as big as the midrange, it's huge.
The 650 and 110 make a great 2-way system. The 650 plays low and loud but it reproduces extremely life like vocals and midrange. The 110 tweeter is just perfection in the setups I've heard. The 430 is arguably the best midrange in existence. It measured with the flattest frequency response, 0.25% or less total harmonic distortion, and won the blind midrange subjective shootout.
I would contact Jerry (Niebur3 on here) if the retail price scares you away. He's the best dealer I've ever done business with and his prices are competitive to say the least.
I still haven't heard a setup that reproduces music as life like as Dynaudio, especially vocals and they will take a ton of power while sounding great.
The W7 is one of my favorite subs. I think it's an excellent choice. Not cheap but it does so many things well.
As for amps, there are so many choices. If you want to stick with JL, you can do the older but very good Slash amps or the newer HD amps. I run an HD600/4 (150x4) to the midbass and mids and there's not enough power to hurt them but they get painfully loud. I use an HD900/5 for the subs and tweeters. It puts out 100x4 and 500w to the subs. My subs are infinite baffle so no enclosure which means they require very little power to get loud. The 500w sub section is more than enough to flex the roof if needed.
I would decide on the sub and enclosure before making the decision on a sub amp. If you went IB with a 12W7, 500w would be more than enough. If you went sealed you would probably want 1,000w. Ported, it's your call, it will get loud on 300w but will take the full thermal rating if you really like your bass.
No speakers in the rear but I did have 75w going to the stock rears years ago and they sounded surprisingly good with the extra power. I had to highpass them at 120hz or they would bottom out if I turned them up.
I'm just throwing stuff out there, people like Jerry could tailor your system to your particular needs.
Retail for the e430 (3.5") is $1,600
Retail for the 110 (tweeter) is around $1,600 I think.
FWIW, I don't know of anyone that pays retail for speakers.
I'm running the Esotar 650 and 430 and the Esotec 102 tweeter. I haven't decided if I am willing to either cut the dash to fit them or pillar mount them which would make them really visible to theives. The Esotar tweeter is as big as the midrange, it's huge.
The 650 and 110 make a great 2-way system. The 650 plays low and loud but it reproduces extremely life like vocals and midrange. The 110 tweeter is just perfection in the setups I've heard. The 430 is arguably the best midrange in existence. It measured with the flattest frequency response, 0.25% or less total harmonic distortion, and won the blind midrange subjective shootout.
I would contact Jerry (Niebur3 on here) if the retail price scares you away. He's the best dealer I've ever done business with and his prices are competitive to say the least.
I still haven't heard a setup that reproduces music as life like as Dynaudio, especially vocals and they will take a ton of power while sounding great.
The W7 is one of my favorite subs. I think it's an excellent choice. Not cheap but it does so many things well.
As for amps, there are so many choices. If you want to stick with JL, you can do the older but very good Slash amps or the newer HD amps. I run an HD600/4 (150x4) to the midbass and mids and there's not enough power to hurt them but they get painfully loud. I use an HD900/5 for the subs and tweeters. It puts out 100x4 and 500w to the subs. My subs are infinite baffle so no enclosure which means they require very little power to get loud. The 500w sub section is more than enough to flex the roof if needed.
I would decide on the sub and enclosure before making the decision on a sub amp. If you went IB with a 12W7, 500w would be more than enough. If you went sealed you would probably want 1,000w. Ported, it's your call, it will get loud on 300w but will take the full thermal rating if you really like your bass.
No speakers in the rear but I did have 75w going to the stock rears years ago and they sounded surprisingly good with the extra power. I had to highpass them at 120hz or they would bottom out if I turned them up.
I'm just throwing stuff out there, people like Jerry could tailor your system to your particular needs.
04-04-2012, 06:24 PM
#16
I might be moving about 2 miles from my work when I graduate, so I guess I should wait b/c there's not really much of a point to spend more if I'll be in my car for all of 5 minutes.
I've got more in deadening and sealing in my doors than my front stage is worth lol. But I can take them down to 60hz with no rattle.
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SSMTL21 (04-04-2012)
04-04-2012, 06:35 PM
#17
If you want something quality, it's not just going to be plug n' play type of thing. You'll need to cut the door sheet metal to fit the magnet for most midbass speakers. You'll need MDF rings for mounting. Deadening/sealing for the door and deadening for wherever else you want.
I've got more in deadening and sealing in my doors than my front stage is worth lol. But I can take them down to 60hz with no rattle.
I've got more in deadening and sealing in my doors than my front stage is worth lol. But I can take them down to 60hz with no rattle.
04-04-2012, 08:27 PM
#18
Factor in about $100-125 for deadening at least. If not, whatever you stick in the door is worthless.
You have a few choices. Do you want 1 sub and run a 5-channel amp? Do you want a few subs and run 2 amps? Seems like you'd want to run a few as that's what you like. With that being said, I currently have my Diamond Audio D1000.1 up for sale on DIYMA. 1350@1ohm for $220 shipped. Thing runs extremely cool, I was surprised!
That would leave about $655 for sub(s), amp and front stage. A 2-channel amp can be had for cheap. I would look into spending about half or more of that 655 on the front components. That leaves you $330 for a 2-channel amp and sub(s), which is plenty.
You have a few choices. Do you want 1 sub and run a 5-channel amp? Do you want a few subs and run 2 amps? Seems like you'd want to run a few as that's what you like. With that being said, I currently have my Diamond Audio D1000.1 up for sale on DIYMA. 1350@1ohm for $220 shipped. Thing runs extremely cool, I was surprised!
That would leave about $655 for sub(s), amp and front stage. A 2-channel amp can be had for cheap. I would look into spending about half or more of that 655 on the front components. That leaves you $330 for a 2-channel amp and sub(s), which is plenty.
04-05-2012, 08:38 AM
#21
Dogmatic Dinosaur
For me, Focal #7 Utopias on Audison 4.1k Amps. 12" FI Q sub on fosgate 1500.1bdcp.
The older memphis big belle 1300d or something like a Audison 5.1K are kinda ok for 5 channels - there are more high powered 5 channels, but they are expensive. I would look around at least 150W for some midbass and 1K for the sub channel. 50W is Ok for some tweeters if they are even any kind of efficient. I prefer to run multiple amps.
The older memphis big belle 1300d or something like a Audison 5.1K are kinda ok for 5 channels - there are more high powered 5 channels, but they are expensive. I would look around at least 150W for some midbass and 1K for the sub channel. 50W is Ok for some tweeters if they are even any kind of efficient. I prefer to run multiple amps.
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