Viper 5902 - Heated Mirrors, Defroster, Seat Activation
10-28-2011, 03:18 PM
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Viper 5902 - Heated Mirrors, Defroster, Seat Activation
I just purchased the Viper 5902 along with DBALL module (hope this doesn't have the lock cycling issue), the digital tilt sensor, glass break sensor, backup battery, and mini Piezo sirens for inside the car.
I haven't seen any directions on here on installing with the DBALL so I guess I'm on my own to figure out the wiring for that ... what I'm wondering though is how do I make the Viper automatically turn on the heated mirrors and front/rear defrosters when it detects it's under 50 degrees or whatever I've read on here. I'd also like to be able to turn on the heated seats but I assume that's as simple as running one of the Aux wires to the heated seat switch?
I haven't seen any directions on here on installing with the DBALL so I guess I'm on my own to figure out the wiring for that ... what I'm wondering though is how do I make the Viper automatically turn on the heated mirrors and front/rear defrosters when it detects it's under 50 degrees or whatever I've read on here. I'd also like to be able to turn on the heated seats but I assume that's as simple as running one of the Aux wires to the heated seat switch?
10-29-2011, 02:15 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/very-detailed-install-viper-5901-remote-start-706816/
For the DBALL, I used the actual instruction from the DBALL. You will probably have cycling locks. i have talked to them and we worked on a few firmware upgrades but nothing good. At one point, my locks would stay open for 5-7 second vise a 1-2 second cycling.. we fixed that again but still cycling.. i haven't upgraded to their new firmware v2.15 beta to test. i stopped at 2.12 and went back to 2.10 iirc.
For the DBALL, I used the actual instruction from the DBALL. You will probably have cycling locks. i have talked to them and we worked on a few firmware upgrades but nothing good. At one point, my locks would stay open for 5-7 second vise a 1-2 second cycling.. we fixed that again but still cycling.. i haven't upgraded to their new firmware v2.15 beta to test. i stopped at 2.12 and went back to 2.10 iirc.
10-30-2011, 04:54 PM
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Does the DBALL need to be flashed? I understand if you want a newer firmware, which doesn't seem to fix the lock cycling issue anyways, that you need to flash the unit but is it necessary to make the unit work?
I emailed the seller when I bought the DBALL to see if it was compatible with the 05 Acura TL and the chart on XPRESSKIT.com shows the device as being compatible so I'm just wondering if this means compatible out-of-the-box or that it is compatible after flashing the proper firmware???
http://www.xpresskit.com/Compatibili...ctid=461&c=223
I emailed the seller when I bought the DBALL to see if it was compatible with the 05 Acura TL and the chart on XPRESSKIT.com shows the device as being compatible so I'm just wondering if this means compatible out-of-the-box or that it is compatible after flashing the proper firmware???
http://www.xpresskit.com/Compatibili...ctid=461&c=223
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11-03-2011, 12:15 PM
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As far as the defroster is concerned, I assume I'll need a 4 prong relay and wire it as such after finding the 16 pin Green harness behind the Navi ...
85 - Viper H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defroster Output
86 - 12V+
30 - Black wire on defog switch or any ground
87 - Yellow wire on defog switch (D7 ... not sure what D7 actually means or if it's pin 7)
I already have some 5 prong relay's I'd rather use so if anybody has a description of the pins and wires for that it would be great.
The 4 prong relay above is what nfnsquared said to do ... is this correct? Does this control both the front and rear defrosters so they both turn on/off together? What if I have the defrosters on when I shut the car off ... I noticed that when I turn the key back on they remember if they were previously on and come back on if they were ... will remote starting the vehicle in cold weather send the pulse to the relay to turn it on and inadvertently shut them off if they were already on? Obviously I don't want to shut them off if they were on but rather leave them on.
As far as the heated seat is concerned, I never found any wiring diagrams on here but I assume it's the same situation with using the same Viper wire going to a relay which goes to a wire off the heated seat switch (if I want the seats to turn on with the defrosters, which I believe I would). I think I'd also like to run the defroster output to a relay for the heated mirrors as well so they all turn on and off together ... it makes sense to me that they should all turn on together when it's cold and I can turn them off manually once I get in the car if I don't need any of them on.
85 - Viper H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defroster Output
86 - 12V+
30 - Black wire on defog switch or any ground
87 - Yellow wire on defog switch (D7 ... not sure what D7 actually means or if it's pin 7)
I already have some 5 prong relay's I'd rather use so if anybody has a description of the pins and wires for that it would be great.
The 4 prong relay above is what nfnsquared said to do ... is this correct? Does this control both the front and rear defrosters so they both turn on/off together? What if I have the defrosters on when I shut the car off ... I noticed that when I turn the key back on they remember if they were previously on and come back on if they were ... will remote starting the vehicle in cold weather send the pulse to the relay to turn it on and inadvertently shut them off if they were already on? Obviously I don't want to shut them off if they were on but rather leave them on.
As far as the heated seat is concerned, I never found any wiring diagrams on here but I assume it's the same situation with using the same Viper wire going to a relay which goes to a wire off the heated seat switch (if I want the seats to turn on with the defrosters, which I believe I would). I think I'd also like to run the defroster output to a relay for the heated mirrors as well so they all turn on and off together ... it makes sense to me that they should all turn on together when it's cold and I can turn them off manually once I get in the car if I don't need any of them on.
Last edited by bugsysiegals; 11-03-2011 at 12:21 PM.
11-03-2011, 12:43 PM
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Well I found the same wiring diagram for "rear defrost" over at
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...23678&KW=acura
I'm not sure but based on that post it seems this only controls the "rear" defroster. I'd still want to turn on the "front" defroster, heated mirrors, and perhaps seats. What about front defroster? What about what I asked earlier regarding if the defroster comes on automatically when the car is started, will the signal to turn it on actually turn it off?
And lastly, how hard or long is it to take the center console apart to get to the back of the Navi to wire this up?
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...23678&KW=acura
I'm not sure but based on that post it seems this only controls the "rear" defroster. I'd still want to turn on the "front" defroster, heated mirrors, and perhaps seats. What about front defroster? What about what I asked earlier regarding if the defroster comes on automatically when the car is started, will the signal to turn it on actually turn it off?
And lastly, how hard or long is it to take the center console apart to get to the back of the Navi to wire this up?
11-03-2011, 01:32 PM
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Wow, I just watched a youtube series on taking the center console apart, that's a lot of work. I can see having to remove the gray carbon fiber panels but wonder if the vents and radio could be removed next without removing all the other stuff? What would be even nicer is if you didn't have to remove anything and could find the wire loom coming from the back of the Navi from under the dash. Is taking this apart pretty much the only option?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=2DvrXZY8RXA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=2DvrXZY8RXA
11-03-2011, 06:33 PM
#13
Taking apart your car is fun! Here are the navi connectors at least for the 06. I'll show you my wiring diagram tomorrow for the r. Def and heated seats seems I left the most recent version on my work computer.
http://www.filesonic.com/file/295851...CONNECTORS.pdf
http://www.filesonic.com/file/295851...CONNECTORS.pdf
11-03-2011, 09:13 PM
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Hmmm ... it shows B2 White/Red is Front Defrost, D6 Blue is Front Defrost, D7 Yellow is Rear Defrost, D13 Red/Black Ind Rear Defrost, D14 Blue/White is Ind Front Defrost. Looks like a lot of defrosts!! HAHA
Not sure how it was figured out before but assuming that since D7 was mentioned for Rear Defrost that D6 is for Front Defrost?
I finally realized that was a 5 pin relay above with pin 87a not mentioned because it didn't need to be wired to anything. I'm not sure exactly how this relay circuit works but my guess would be that the defroster wire grounds out when activated which completes the ground for the 12V+ which then moves the coil. This in turn allows D7 to complete it's ground circuit emulating a push of the defroster button.
I'm sure I could connect the Viper H2/16 wire to 2 separate relays, one for front defroster, one for the back, but can't I just hook up both defroster wires to pin 87 of the same relay? Would I need a diode on each defroster wire in order to do this or is that unnecessary? Could I also connect the heated mirrors and seats to this same relay, pin 87, if I take the positive wire from each that just needs a completed ground connection in order to turn on ... perhaps adding diodes to each wire if needed (still not sure what color wires I need for seats or mirrors)?
85 - Viper H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defroster Output
86 - 12V+
30 - Black wire on defog switch or any ground
87 - D7 Yellow and D6 Blue
87a - N/A
Not sure how it was figured out before but assuming that since D7 was mentioned for Rear Defrost that D6 is for Front Defrost?
I finally realized that was a 5 pin relay above with pin 87a not mentioned because it didn't need to be wired to anything. I'm not sure exactly how this relay circuit works but my guess would be that the defroster wire grounds out when activated which completes the ground for the 12V+ which then moves the coil. This in turn allows D7 to complete it's ground circuit emulating a push of the defroster button.
I'm sure I could connect the Viper H2/16 wire to 2 separate relays, one for front defroster, one for the back, but can't I just hook up both defroster wires to pin 87 of the same relay? Would I need a diode on each defroster wire in order to do this or is that unnecessary? Could I also connect the heated mirrors and seats to this same relay, pin 87, if I take the positive wire from each that just needs a completed ground connection in order to turn on ... perhaps adding diodes to each wire if needed (still not sure what color wires I need for seats or mirrors)?
85 - Viper H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defroster Output
86 - 12V+
30 - Black wire on defog switch or any ground
87 - D7 Yellow and D6 Blue
87a - N/A
11-04-2011, 11:54 AM
#15
Yes you get the idea that's exactly how it works. The seats will need to be a latched operation because its not wired for a momenatry switch like the r. Def. That would go for the mirrors too I suppose but I rodent do my mirrors. You could combine relays and diode isolate for the rear / front def. But not the others. Infact you will need two relays alone for the seats to create a latched output from a momentary pulse. Unless you change the setting for 2nd status to latched. I opted to do it the other way because I didn't want the connection of the button wires to stay latched. I'll post a diagram tonight.
11-07-2011, 08:20 PM
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I've created a diagram to help me with my install and also to let others confirm I'm doing this correctly. Please take a look at it and let me know if anything looks wrong. I've highlighted the stuff I'm unsure of in Red (parking lights, horn, heated seats and mirrors, tachometer wire, and direction of diode on isolated wires.)
This alarm stuff has me confused on positive/negative wires in circuits and thus which direction to put the diode. I always thought current flowed from positive to negative. Ex. The relay on the defroster has a negative wire on pin 30 and the defroster wire on pin 87. To me this means the defroster wire is positive and flows to the negative. This would mean to put the cathode towards the relay? I said to put it the other way because of the following confusion.
On the glass/tilt sensors, the manual says the trigger output on the sensors is negative and it connects to a negative trigger input. I'm not really understanding how the output on the sensor isn't positive and carrying electricity to the negative input which is ground?? The only way I can see the sensor output being negative is when no electricity is flowing through it ... am I looking at this incorrectly? Is the defroster wire a negative or positive wire and which direction does the diode go. Also, are the diodes in the right direction for the sensors?
This alarm stuff has me confused on positive/negative wires in circuits and thus which direction to put the diode. I always thought current flowed from positive to negative. Ex. The relay on the defroster has a negative wire on pin 30 and the defroster wire on pin 87. To me this means the defroster wire is positive and flows to the negative. This would mean to put the cathode towards the relay? I said to put it the other way because of the following confusion.
On the glass/tilt sensors, the manual says the trigger output on the sensors is negative and it connects to a negative trigger input. I'm not really understanding how the output on the sensor isn't positive and carrying electricity to the negative input which is ground?? The only way I can see the sensor output being negative is when no electricity is flowing through it ... am I looking at this incorrectly? Is the defroster wire a negative or positive wire and which direction does the diode go. Also, are the diodes in the right direction for the sensors?
11-07-2011, 09:03 PM
#17
Hey man sorry for the delay here is my diagram. I try to document all of my projects and especially wire diagrams because a month down the road I'll want to change something, and I've learned the hard way to many times that you just don't remember unless you write it down!
This is still a work in progress, my alarm install in complete but I'm working on several other things at the moment one being my CarPC.
http://www.filesonic.com/file/317589...ut_11-4-11.pdf
This is still a work in progress, my alarm install in complete but I'm working on several other things at the moment one being my CarPC.
http://www.filesonic.com/file/317589...ut_11-4-11.pdf
11-08-2011, 06:26 AM
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Wow, I was expecting a small diagram but you went all out bro!! HAHA That's truly one hell of a setup ... I'll have to get back to you and ask a few questions so I can think through all the features I want and set up my wiring properly before I do the install. Thanks.
11-08-2011, 11:45 AM
#19
ha ha ya my cars been gutted for over a month now lots of research, wiring & circuit building but this us much more then the basic setup. The diagram is detailed but doesn't explain necessary the function so while it can be helpful I'm sure you'll have questions. I plan on posting a DIY at some point I have been taking pictures along the way.
also you really need to buy the electrical trouble shooting manual if you want to wire anything custom or not already posted somewhere.
also just a word of warning there are small wiring differences between all the years even 04,05,06.
also you really need to buy the electrical trouble shooting manual if you want to wire anything custom or not already posted somewhere.
also just a word of warning there are small wiring differences between all the years even 04,05,06.
11-08-2011, 05:48 PM
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Ok, I have an 05 Automatic so I guess I'll have to get that book to make sure I'm using the right wires.
So looking at the relays for full auto and rear defroster ... if either is on when you shut the car off, I believe they come back on when you start the car the next time. If they come back on when you remote start and then the starter output signal grounds out, activating the relay, does the rear defroster or full auto then go off? Obviously you wouldn't want that happening. Surprised you didn't wire up front defroster since full auto doesn't send air out the front defroster, right?
Any special reason you put the siren on the horn honk output rather than siren output wire? Also, why does the siren output wire run to the buzzer? Is that to make loud noise while someone might be trying to disconnect the alarm inside the car? I bought 2 mini piezo sirens to throw under the dash for that. Also, what's with the strobe circuit, is this to flash brightly under the dash so when they look up at the wires they get blinded and cant see anymore?
Am I right that both the horn and the parking lights require no relay? The parking light wire hooks up the positive parking light wire, correct? Horn is just the yellow/green wire?
So looking at the relays for full auto and rear defroster ... if either is on when you shut the car off, I believe they come back on when you start the car the next time. If they come back on when you remote start and then the starter output signal grounds out, activating the relay, does the rear defroster or full auto then go off? Obviously you wouldn't want that happening. Surprised you didn't wire up front defroster since full auto doesn't send air out the front defroster, right?
Any special reason you put the siren on the horn honk output rather than siren output wire? Also, why does the siren output wire run to the buzzer? Is that to make loud noise while someone might be trying to disconnect the alarm inside the car? I bought 2 mini piezo sirens to throw under the dash for that. Also, what's with the strobe circuit, is this to flash brightly under the dash so when they look up at the wires they get blinded and cant see anymore?
Am I right that both the horn and the parking lights require no relay? The parking light wire hooks up the positive parking light wire, correct? Horn is just the yellow/green wire?
Last edited by bugsysiegals; 11-08-2011 at 05:56 PM.
11-08-2011, 05:54 PM
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I can't wait to see the CarPC .. I've seen someone else do that on here. Not sure what your plans are but just a few ideas if you haven't considered these. If I was to do that, I'd imagine hooking up the CarPC to one of the Aux outputs if that allows you to remotely turn it on without starting the car. Then have the CarPC set to automatically join your wireless network at home. Then have it setup on the same workgroup with files and folders shared and able to be seen. Then share a music and video folder. Also, setup the CarPC so that you can use your smartphone as a keyboard and mouse. So basically you can activate the Aux while inside the house, after a few minutes it's online and connected to the network, then from your main PC in the house you can drag and drop new videos or music onto the network shared folder of the CarPC and shut the CarPC down when your done. Next time your in your car you have the latest music and videos accessible and you can control the whole thing from your smartphone (someone else made the screen touchscreen for mouse but the smartphone would allow both mouse and keyboard very easily and your phone is always with you). Not sure what other cool things you could do but just a few I thought I'd share in case you hadn't thought of them already.
11-08-2011, 08:41 PM
#22
Ok, I have an 05 Automatic so I guess I'll have to get that book to make sure I'm using the right wires.
So looking at the relays for full auto and rear defroster ... if either is on when you shut the car off, I believe they come back on when you start the car the next time. If they come back on when you remote start and then the starter output signal grounds out, activating the relay, does the rear defroster or full auto then go off? Obviously you wouldn't want that happening. Surprised you didn't wire up front defroster since full auto doesn't send air out the front defroster, right?
I have it setup so full auto is switched on whenever I remote start (Activated with starter output), this basically turns the climate control on to the temp I was using last but at full auto mode. In all honestly I part in a garage so front or rear def in no really necessary or else I probably would incorporate the front def but not triggered with the starter wire.
The heated seats and rear defrost are triggered by the (2nd status output) which is programmed as a pulse, triggered on remote start ONLY when the temp in the car is under 55 deg (or what ever you choose). ALSO please note that the single pulse activates the rear def like pushing the button which is a OEM timed 10 min output I believe. The heated seats on the other hand need a latched or constant output so inorder to keep them on the same circuit I used two relays (SEE DIAGRAM) So it takes the pulse from the 2nd status output and converts to a constant signal to keep the heated seats on. The latch on the heated seats is broken when I release the parking brake. Then I would just turn the seat on manually at this point when I'm obviously inside the car.
Any special reason you put the siren on the horn honk output rather than siren output wire? Also, why does the siren output wire run to the buzzer? Is that to make loud noise while someone might be trying to disconnect the alarm inside the car? I bought 2 mini piezo sirens to throw under the dash for that. Also, what's with the strobe circuit, is this to flash brightly under the dash so when they look up at the wires they get blinded and cant see anymore?
OK this is all optional custom stuff but just to explain a bit. For the everyday lock / unlock chirps I Haaate the sound of the viper siren so I am using a piezo buzzer that sounds more like the OEM chirp or the Lexus car chirp. (google radioshack car alarm piezo).
As for the wiring I have the buzzer hooked to the siren output for the daily chips & I'm using the horn output programmed to only work on full alarm trigger. This will activate my horn, the loud siren & the flashing strobe light at full trigger. However the horn output is pulsed which is fine for the horn but not so good for the others. I built a circuit to convert the pulse from the horn wire to a constant signal to power the strobe and large siren.
P.S. The (White) xenon strobe is very cool just like the strobe light police have in their light or snow plows. Very bright flashes and is actually a very good deterrent according to some research visual alarm notification are more effective at deterring thieves then sound. Who knows but it just adds that little extra.
Am I right that both the horn and the parking lights require no relay? The parking light wire hooks up the positive parking light wire, correct? Horn is just the yellow/green wire?
So looking at the relays for full auto and rear defroster ... if either is on when you shut the car off, I believe they come back on when you start the car the next time. If they come back on when you remote start and then the starter output signal grounds out, activating the relay, does the rear defroster or full auto then go off? Obviously you wouldn't want that happening. Surprised you didn't wire up front defroster since full auto doesn't send air out the front defroster, right?
I have it setup so full auto is switched on whenever I remote start (Activated with starter output), this basically turns the climate control on to the temp I was using last but at full auto mode. In all honestly I part in a garage so front or rear def in no really necessary or else I probably would incorporate the front def but not triggered with the starter wire.
The heated seats and rear defrost are triggered by the (2nd status output) which is programmed as a pulse, triggered on remote start ONLY when the temp in the car is under 55 deg (or what ever you choose). ALSO please note that the single pulse activates the rear def like pushing the button which is a OEM timed 10 min output I believe. The heated seats on the other hand need a latched or constant output so inorder to keep them on the same circuit I used two relays (SEE DIAGRAM) So it takes the pulse from the 2nd status output and converts to a constant signal to keep the heated seats on. The latch on the heated seats is broken when I release the parking brake. Then I would just turn the seat on manually at this point when I'm obviously inside the car.
Any special reason you put the siren on the horn honk output rather than siren output wire? Also, why does the siren output wire run to the buzzer? Is that to make loud noise while someone might be trying to disconnect the alarm inside the car? I bought 2 mini piezo sirens to throw under the dash for that. Also, what's with the strobe circuit, is this to flash brightly under the dash so when they look up at the wires they get blinded and cant see anymore?
OK this is all optional custom stuff but just to explain a bit. For the everyday lock / unlock chirps I Haaate the sound of the viper siren so I am using a piezo buzzer that sounds more like the OEM chirp or the Lexus car chirp. (google radioshack car alarm piezo).
As for the wiring I have the buzzer hooked to the siren output for the daily chips & I'm using the horn output programmed to only work on full alarm trigger. This will activate my horn, the loud siren & the flashing strobe light at full trigger. However the horn output is pulsed which is fine for the horn but not so good for the others. I built a circuit to convert the pulse from the horn wire to a constant signal to power the strobe and large siren.
P.S. The (White) xenon strobe is very cool just like the strobe light police have in their light or snow plows. Very bright flashes and is actually a very good deterrent according to some research visual alarm notification are more effective at deterring thieves then sound. Who knows but it just adds that little extra.
Am I right that both the horn and the parking lights require no relay? The parking light wire hooks up the positive parking light wire, correct? Horn is just the yellow/green wire?
Oh and you dont need 30 amp bosh relays for all this stuff!! I use tiny 1amp SMD relays for most of the logic level switching circuits , and 5 amp or 10amp for some of the more power hungry items.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...T-RELAY/1.html
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a....-RELAY/1.html
11-08-2011, 09:54 PM
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Ok, once my Lexus is sold I plan to park the Acura inside the garage which then the windshields do not get frost; however, they would if parking at work outside and it's snowing so I'll end up probably wiring for both defrosts here in Wisconsin. And I think you could also activate the defrosters with the defrost function on the remote if the cabin temp sensor is off which it seems to be. Your wiring on all this makes perfect sense although I'm not understanding how the 2 relays from the diagram become a latched output. Not sure why I can't see how that's happening but whatever. And I suppose since I have an automatic I'll have to figure out another way to kill the latched output.
I'll have to check out the sound of the siren chirps and see how I like that myself. Can't that just be deactivated in the menu options? Interesting about the light, what kind of strobe light did you get exactly and where did you place it ... perhaps I'll add that to my setup?
Regarding the lights, I have the 520T backup battery and I believe it said it could not support headlights without a separate relay or something to that effect. Is the 5 amps to much on the backup battery or is that ok? Not sure what headlights I have other than they look like HID's and are purple/blueish in color output.
Do you get some sort of wire harness that attached to these SMD relays or do you just cut the pins down a little bit, solder the wires to the pins, and electrical tape the unit up?
I used the following relays on my R1 to make my Angel Eye's and side marker lights blink when I turned the blinkers on ... wow, not that I look at it I guess I didn't know much about what relay to order since it handles 40 amps but at least it was waterproof! LOL Live and learn ...
P.S. Speaking of the 520T Backup Battery ... I changed my diagram to include running the power from the 520T to the Viper AND the DBALL. At first I just had it to the Viper and figured I didn't need to hookup the DBALL to it, especially since it said not to use it for any other accessories, but I seen your diagram to the idatalink and figured it couldn't hurt or may even be necessary although I didn't think so???
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i02_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i01_details
I'll have to check out the sound of the siren chirps and see how I like that myself. Can't that just be deactivated in the menu options? Interesting about the light, what kind of strobe light did you get exactly and where did you place it ... perhaps I'll add that to my setup?
Regarding the lights, I have the 520T backup battery and I believe it said it could not support headlights without a separate relay or something to that effect. Is the 5 amps to much on the backup battery or is that ok? Not sure what headlights I have other than they look like HID's and are purple/blueish in color output.
Do you get some sort of wire harness that attached to these SMD relays or do you just cut the pins down a little bit, solder the wires to the pins, and electrical tape the unit up?
I used the following relays on my R1 to make my Angel Eye's and side marker lights blink when I turned the blinkers on ... wow, not that I look at it I guess I didn't know much about what relay to order since it handles 40 amps but at least it was waterproof! LOL Live and learn ...
P.S. Speaking of the 520T Backup Battery ... I changed my diagram to include running the power from the 520T to the Viper AND the DBALL. At first I just had it to the Viper and figured I didn't need to hookup the DBALL to it, especially since it said not to use it for any other accessories, but I seen your diagram to the idatalink and figured it couldn't hurt or may even be necessary although I didn't think so???
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i02_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i01_details
11-08-2011, 10:28 PM
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Took a little bit but finally understand the latched relay ... Couldnt see how the second coil stayed energized once the first collapsed but then seen how once the current flows through it flows to the output but also recirculates through to keep the coil energized and thus a latched or constant output.
11-09-2011, 08:32 PM
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I see the IN4001 is 15 for $1.01 right now ... I'll grab like 60 just so I have a decent supply for the future. What diode #'s are you using for the 5A and 10A diodes? I'd rather not order the wrong stuff.
How many of these relays do you think I need of each? Do the front/rear defrosters relays need to be 10A or will 1A work? What about the heated seats/mirrors? I would assume 10A for those. Also, would 2 relays, setup to create a constant latched output, be enough to support both heated seats? How about both seats and the mirror?
If I need to use a relay for the parking lights or horn, due to the backup battery install notes regarding the draw of that not going to work, which relay(s) would those ones use? I assume 10A for the parking lights but not sure about the horn.
Is there anything else I should order from that site since I'm placing an order and want to get everything at once? Thanks for all the help with this.
How many of these relays do you think I need of each? Do the front/rear defrosters relays need to be 10A or will 1A work? What about the heated seats/mirrors? I would assume 10A for those. Also, would 2 relays, setup to create a constant latched output, be enough to support both heated seats? How about both seats and the mirror?
If I need to use a relay for the parking lights or horn, due to the backup battery install notes regarding the draw of that not going to work, which relay(s) would those ones use? I assume 10A for the parking lights but not sure about the horn.
Is there anything else I should order from that site since I'm placing an order and want to get everything at once? Thanks for all the help with this.
11-09-2011, 08:50 PM
#26
Ok, once my Lexus is sold I plan to park the Acura inside the garage which then the windshields do not get frost; however, they would if parking at work outside and it's snowing so I'll end up probably wiring for both defrosts here in Wisconsin. And I think you could also activate the defrosters with the defrost function on the remote if the cabin temp sensor is off which it seems to be. Your wiring on all this makes perfect sense although I'm not understanding how the 2 relays from the diagram become a latched output. Not sure why I can't see how that's happening but whatever. And I suppose since I have an automatic I'll have to figure out another way to kill the latched output.
You could just have it door wire ground it when you get in the car.
I'll have to check out the sound of the siren chirps and see how I like that myself. Can't that just be deactivated in the menu options? Interesting about the light, what kind of strobe light did you get exactly and where did you place it ... perhaps I'll add that to my setup?
I used this flasher unit. I took the bulb off the board and solder it to individual wires so I could locate the bulb discretely. Its mounted in the center for the dash all the way back tucked at the seam next to the windshield. Just the tip is sticking up but it lights the whole/car surrounding area when it flashes.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...SSEMBLY/1.html
Regarding the lights, I have the 520T backup battery and I believe it said it could not support headlights without a separate relay or something to that effect. Is the 5 amps to much on the backup battery or is that ok? Not sure what headlights I have other than they look like HID's and are purple/blueish in color output.
The 520T is only for emergency it cannot run your headlights. Its only really to keep your siren running if a thief somehow cuts your battery.
Do you get some sort of wire harness that attached to these SMD relays or do you just cut the pins down a little bit, solder the wires to the pins, and electrical tape the unit up?
See Pics below. sometimes I will solder directly to the pegs on the mid sized relays but I don't like doing it because its not as clean.
I used the following relays on my R1 to make my Angel Eye's and side marker lights blink when I turned the blinkers on ... wow, not that I look at it I guess I didn't know much about what relay to order since it handles 40 amps but at least it was waterproof! LOL Live and learn ...
Ya I use these relays under the hood nothing wrong with that, in fact thats all I used to use but with more an more electrical projects just started using smaller and smaller components out of necessity.
P.S. Speaking of the 520T Backup Battery ... I changed my diagram to include running the power from the 520T to the Viper AND the DBALL. At first I just had it to the Viper and figured I didn't need to hookup the DBALL to it, especially since it said not to use it for any other accessories, but I seen your diagram to the idatalink and figured it couldn't hurt or may even be necessary although I didn't think so???
I actually ended up only hooking the 520T to the viper too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i02_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i01_details
You could just have it door wire ground it when you get in the car.
I'll have to check out the sound of the siren chirps and see how I like that myself. Can't that just be deactivated in the menu options? Interesting about the light, what kind of strobe light did you get exactly and where did you place it ... perhaps I'll add that to my setup?
I used this flasher unit. I took the bulb off the board and solder it to individual wires so I could locate the bulb discretely. Its mounted in the center for the dash all the way back tucked at the seam next to the windshield. Just the tip is sticking up but it lights the whole/car surrounding area when it flashes.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...SSEMBLY/1.html
Regarding the lights, I have the 520T backup battery and I believe it said it could not support headlights without a separate relay or something to that effect. Is the 5 amps to much on the backup battery or is that ok? Not sure what headlights I have other than they look like HID's and are purple/blueish in color output.
The 520T is only for emergency it cannot run your headlights. Its only really to keep your siren running if a thief somehow cuts your battery.
Do you get some sort of wire harness that attached to these SMD relays or do you just cut the pins down a little bit, solder the wires to the pins, and electrical tape the unit up?
See Pics below. sometimes I will solder directly to the pegs on the mid sized relays but I don't like doing it because its not as clean.
I used the following relays on my R1 to make my Angel Eye's and side marker lights blink when I turned the blinkers on ... wow, not that I look at it I guess I didn't know much about what relay to order since it handles 40 amps but at least it was waterproof! LOL Live and learn ...
Ya I use these relays under the hood nothing wrong with that, in fact thats all I used to use but with more an more electrical projects just started using smaller and smaller components out of necessity.
P.S. Speaking of the 520T Backup Battery ... I changed my diagram to include running the power from the 520T to the Viper AND the DBALL. At first I just had it to the Viper and figured I didn't need to hookup the DBALL to it, especially since it said not to use it for any other accessories, but I seen your diagram to the idatalink and figured it couldn't hurt or may even be necessary although I didn't think so???
I actually ended up only hooking the 520T to the viper too.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i02_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i01_details
From my diagram this is relay box # 1 & 1A I ended up redoing this and combining the two.
11-09-2011, 09:15 PM
#27
I see the IN4001 is 15 for $1.01 right now ... I'll grab like 60 just so I have a decent supply for the future. What diode #'s are you using for the 5A and 10A diodes? I'd rather not order the wrong stuff.
I actually didn't use anything over 1A diodes but I have LEDs so there is not much current running through that circuit. This is the only place viper recommends using 5 amp diodes. Here are some 6A diodes
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...600-PIV/1.html
How many of these relays do you think I need of each? Do the front/rear defrosters relays need to be 10A or will 1A work? What about the heated seats/mirrors? I would assume 10A for those. Also, would 2 relays, setup to create a constant latched output, be enough to support both heated seats? How about both seats and the mirror?
For the defrost and anything where you are just making the switch connect simulating a button press all you need are 1amp diodes. The heated seats I would use 5 or 10 amp because you are actually passing some current but not a whole lot. You might be able to run both seats off two relays just diode isolate the wires going to each seat. The mirrors you should be able to use the same method as the rear defrost so just 1 amp
If I need to use a relay for the parking lights or horn, due to the backup battery install notes regarding the draw of that not going to work, which relay(s) would those ones use? I assume 10A for the parking lights but not sure about the horn.
I wouldnt run these off the 520T just the siren
Is there anything else I should order from that site since I'm placing an order and want to get everything at once? Thanks for all the help with this.
I actually didn't use anything over 1A diodes but I have LEDs so there is not much current running through that circuit. This is the only place viper recommends using 5 amp diodes. Here are some 6A diodes
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...600-PIV/1.html
How many of these relays do you think I need of each? Do the front/rear defrosters relays need to be 10A or will 1A work? What about the heated seats/mirrors? I would assume 10A for those. Also, would 2 relays, setup to create a constant latched output, be enough to support both heated seats? How about both seats and the mirror?
For the defrost and anything where you are just making the switch connect simulating a button press all you need are 1amp diodes. The heated seats I would use 5 or 10 amp because you are actually passing some current but not a whole lot. You might be able to run both seats off two relays just diode isolate the wires going to each seat. The mirrors you should be able to use the same method as the rear defrost so just 1 amp
If I need to use a relay for the parking lights or horn, due to the backup battery install notes regarding the draw of that not going to work, which relay(s) would those ones use? I assume 10A for the parking lights but not sure about the horn.
I wouldnt run these off the 520T just the siren
Is there anything else I should order from that site since I'm placing an order and want to get everything at once? Thanks for all the help with this.
Site can be dangerous lol. My last order was over 500 dollars lol
11-09-2011, 09:34 PM
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Damn bro are you an electrical engineer or something ... you go all out! HAHA
So 5A diodes only for parking lights if they are not the LED bulbs?
The heated mirror has a actually latched push button rather than a momentary switch so wouldn't that also use a constant latched relay setup rather than single momentary relay?
I didn't mean running parking lights off the 520T. I would wire them to the Viper. It just sounded like in the manual that you should not use the onboard relay of the Viper for parking lights since the 520T cannot support that much draw of current. This made me think I needed a separate relay for them but perhaps I need no relay at all and all will be fine.
So 5A diodes only for parking lights if they are not the LED bulbs?
The heated mirror has a actually latched push button rather than a momentary switch so wouldn't that also use a constant latched relay setup rather than single momentary relay?
I didn't mean running parking lights off the 520T. I would wire them to the Viper. It just sounded like in the manual that you should not use the onboard relay of the Viper for parking lights since the 520T cannot support that much draw of current. This made me think I needed a separate relay for them but perhaps I need no relay at all and all will be fine.
11-10-2011, 05:28 PM
#29
No EE but that has always been a thought on my mind.
Your right on the mirrors it needs a latched connection but I don't think there is much current or anything running through that switch so 1amp should be fine.
You have a good point on the parking lights/ horn I didn't think about that actually. In the rare case where I might need the 520T it might not be able to run them at least not for very long. Damn now I have to add two more relay! actually I think you've convinced me to wire the front def too.
Your right on the mirrors it needs a latched connection but I don't think there is much current or anything running through that switch so 1amp should be fine.
You have a good point on the parking lights/ horn I didn't think about that actually. In the rare case where I might need the 520T it might not be able to run them at least not for very long. Damn now I have to add two more relay! actually I think you've convinced me to wire the front def too.
11-10-2011, 06:06 PM
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So as far as running the 520T to the DBALL ... I was thinking the only way it would need backup power is if the battery lost power from dieing or wires being cut; however, if that happens, the alarm will full trigger immediately and you wouldn't need to know the doors were opened, etc. so I'd guess it really doesn't need to be wired to the 520T, correct?
Breaking the latched heated seats/mirrors circuits ... How would I wire it so opening the car door disables this?
Where did you install your Piezo Buzzer ... under the hood?
What kind of parking lights do you have that are LED's? Not sure what I have but perhaps I'll switch to LED's.
When you use the breadboard and you push the relay through it, do you cut the pins so they barely stick through and solder the wires directly to the pins on the backside of the board? Never used a breadboard before.
The strobe light kit you mentioned ... I also seen the light on it's own but did you buy the kit since the electronics from it make it flash ... is that your strobe circuit?
Why do you use connectors on the relay boxes? Is that so you can easily disconnect the relay box and make changes to the electronics inside if you need to?
Breaking the latched heated seats/mirrors circuits ... How would I wire it so opening the car door disables this?
Where did you install your Piezo Buzzer ... under the hood?
What kind of parking lights do you have that are LED's? Not sure what I have but perhaps I'll switch to LED's.
When you use the breadboard and you push the relay through it, do you cut the pins so they barely stick through and solder the wires directly to the pins on the backside of the board? Never used a breadboard before.
The strobe light kit you mentioned ... I also seen the light on it's own but did you buy the kit since the electronics from it make it flash ... is that your strobe circuit?
Why do you use connectors on the relay boxes? Is that so you can easily disconnect the relay box and make changes to the electronics inside if you need to?
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