Subwoofer replacement vs Box and Speaker
#1
Photoshops, and Polls!!!!
Thread Starter
Subwoofer replacement vs Box and Speaker
i realize this has been discussed many times, but my buddies are reccomending that i change out existing sub and upgrade the speaker with amp, rather than build a box...
Hey, check out this subwoofer replacement kit, apparently it's a company that manufactures 6.1 surround systems for home and car.
http://www.adireaudio.com/
There is a "mid range subwoofer" 8 inches that may replace the subwoofer in the 3rd gen TL, anyone have any experience with this?
Perhaps this may help someone who wants to replace the sub out.
SPECS BELOW
The Koda subwoofers are the newest line of mobile audio subwoofers from Adire Audio. This new series features our patent-pending XBL2 motor structure, cast frame, cold-forged black nickel plated motor structure, rubber mounting boot, and legendary Adire Audio quality.
The Koda 10 Subwoofer is available now; the Koda 12 and 15 subwoofers will follow in the summer of 2004.
Koda subs are designed to provide extremely high sound quality and SPL levels at a very affordable price. Consider them a little brother to the Brahmas - tight, deep bass with great output. And with the XBL2 motor, sound quality that doesn't change when running at a whisper or full-on rock concert volumes.
The Koda subs are well suited for sealed, vented, and IB use. The parameters for the subs are as follows:
Param
10" 12" 15"
Fs 28 Hz 24 Hz 20 Hz
Qms 3.5 3.9 4.7
Qes 0.42 0.45 0.52
Qts 0.40 0.42 0.47
Vas 85 liters 138 liters 380 liters
Znom1 4 Ohm
Re2 2.8 Ohms
Le3 1.3 mH
BL 10.2
Sd 344 cm2 481 cm2 779 cm2
Xmax 18mm one way linear
Pmax4 300W RMS, 600W peak
NOTE: Power rating is thermal only! It is NOT a power requirement; typically you get full output with significantly less power than the rating.
SPL5 88 @ 1W, 1m 89 dB @ 1W, 1m 90 dB @ 1W, 1m
Diameter 10.5" 12.375" 15.5"
Cutout 9.25" 11.125" 14.125"
Depth 4.75" 5.75" 7.25"
Volume 0.08 cubic feet 0.11 cubic feet 0.14 cubic feet
Weight 17 pounds 20 pounds 24 pounds
Price $229 $259 $289
Hey, check out this subwoofer replacement kit, apparently it's a company that manufactures 6.1 surround systems for home and car.
http://www.adireaudio.com/
There is a "mid range subwoofer" 8 inches that may replace the subwoofer in the 3rd gen TL, anyone have any experience with this?
Perhaps this may help someone who wants to replace the sub out.
SPECS BELOW
The Koda subwoofers are the newest line of mobile audio subwoofers from Adire Audio. This new series features our patent-pending XBL2 motor structure, cast frame, cold-forged black nickel plated motor structure, rubber mounting boot, and legendary Adire Audio quality.
The Koda 10 Subwoofer is available now; the Koda 12 and 15 subwoofers will follow in the summer of 2004.
Koda subs are designed to provide extremely high sound quality and SPL levels at a very affordable price. Consider them a little brother to the Brahmas - tight, deep bass with great output. And with the XBL2 motor, sound quality that doesn't change when running at a whisper or full-on rock concert volumes.
The Koda subs are well suited for sealed, vented, and IB use. The parameters for the subs are as follows:
Param
10" 12" 15"
Fs 28 Hz 24 Hz 20 Hz
Qms 3.5 3.9 4.7
Qes 0.42 0.45 0.52
Qts 0.40 0.42 0.47
Vas 85 liters 138 liters 380 liters
Znom1 4 Ohm
Re2 2.8 Ohms
Le3 1.3 mH
BL 10.2
Sd 344 cm2 481 cm2 779 cm2
Xmax 18mm one way linear
Pmax4 300W RMS, 600W peak
NOTE: Power rating is thermal only! It is NOT a power requirement; typically you get full output with significantly less power than the rating.
SPL5 88 @ 1W, 1m 89 dB @ 1W, 1m 90 dB @ 1W, 1m
Diameter 10.5" 12.375" 15.5"
Cutout 9.25" 11.125" 14.125"
Depth 4.75" 5.75" 7.25"
Volume 0.08 cubic feet 0.11 cubic feet 0.14 cubic feet
Weight 17 pounds 20 pounds 24 pounds
Price $229 $259 $289
#3
Senior Moderator
if you check the dimensions of the OEM sub, there are a few aftermarket subs that should fit the space of the OEM one, you would just need to take the signal, feed it into a new amp to give the new sub ample (no pun intended) power. I'm thinkin about goin this way too instead of building a box because I don't really want to eat up trunk space.
The reason I would not go with this sub is, from the picture it seems its a paper cone and foam surround, you're better off with a polyprepolyne (or wood pulp/kevlar mix) cone and rubber surround.
The reason I would not go with this sub is, from the picture it seems its a paper cone and foam surround, you're better off with a polyprepolyne (or wood pulp/kevlar mix) cone and rubber surround.
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Most better speakers now are going with PAPER cones cause they produce the best sound.. maybe not the loudest but since you are going with an 8 " I don't think you are going for really loud anyway
I have never heard of those subs but I am sure that if you want to keep your factory setup than anything would be fine, since you are putting out the same amount of power usin the factory amp. You MIGHT want to try and find a sub with a REAL HIGH sensitivity. That number will allow your sub to play LOUDER with the same power. I.e. an 88 sensitivity will play so loud. an 89 sensitivity will play 3db louder with the same amount of power. I am PRETTY SURE that for every +1 in sensitivity that the speaker plays 3 db louder. (take into account that some manufacturers alter their numbers of course)
I would always go with a box and amp though.. IT WILL sound much louder and be more clean. A sealed enclosure will always sound SOO much better. and you don't have to give up that much trunk room just have it fire through the back seats through the opening. IT WILL sound really good.
Ryan
I have never heard of those subs but I am sure that if you want to keep your factory setup than anything would be fine, since you are putting out the same amount of power usin the factory amp. You MIGHT want to try and find a sub with a REAL HIGH sensitivity. That number will allow your sub to play LOUDER with the same power. I.e. an 88 sensitivity will play so loud. an 89 sensitivity will play 3db louder with the same amount of power. I am PRETTY SURE that for every +1 in sensitivity that the speaker plays 3 db louder. (take into account that some manufacturers alter their numbers of course)
I would always go with a box and amp though.. IT WILL sound much louder and be more clean. A sealed enclosure will always sound SOO much better. and you don't have to give up that much trunk room just have it fire through the back seats through the opening. IT WILL sound really good.
Ryan
#5
Cruisin'
In-cabin is the best set up for a subwoofer. If you install a sub in the trunk, especially in a luxury car, then most energy is absorbed in the sound dampening and leather seats before it reaches your ears. The only reason to put a sub in the trunk is to wake up your neighbors. If you look at the FR graph on on Adire's web site you'll see it's very linear compared to most woofers which means it'll play lower freq as if it was a bigger sub.
http://www.adireaudio.com/images/Koda8Sealed.gif
Here's an article about JL's 10W7 and a FR graph
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0210cae_jla/
Keep in mind that the Koda 8 is only $80 vs the JL 10W7 which is $400. Another good thing is the Koda is that it only requires .25 cft of space.
The problem Jerky will have is if
a) it'll fit in the stock location
b) there's a sealed enclosure (most OEM are free air)
c) the output signal isn't too high that he can't use it as a high input for the amp or convert it to low input.
-SJ
P.S. Here's an interesting (but very long) thread about the XBL^2 technology
http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...hlight=xbl%5E2
http://www.adireaudio.com/images/Koda8Sealed.gif
Here's an article about JL's 10W7 and a FR graph
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0210cae_jla/
Keep in mind that the Koda 8 is only $80 vs the JL 10W7 which is $400. Another good thing is the Koda is that it only requires .25 cft of space.
The problem Jerky will have is if
a) it'll fit in the stock location
b) there's a sealed enclosure (most OEM are free air)
c) the output signal isn't too high that he can't use it as a high input for the amp or convert it to low input.
-SJ
P.S. Here's an interesting (but very long) thread about the XBL^2 technology
http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...hlight=xbl%5E2
#7
[QUOTE=soghjai]In-cabin is the best set up for a subwoofer. If you install a sub in the trunk, especially in a luxury car, then most energy is absorbed in the sound dampening and leather seats before it reaches your ears. The only reason to put a sub in the trunk is to wake up your neighbors.
if you seal the sub in the trunk then yes. Hwever, this is not accurate if you put a ported subbox in the trunk and then port it through the package tray into the passenger cabin. this allows you to utilize the trunk space for however many drivers of whatever size you want and then porting the box to the cabin puts the base directly where you are without getting absorbed. this is one of the best ways to get great bass. of course you've got to start with good drivers, wiring and power.
if you seal the sub in the trunk then yes. Hwever, this is not accurate if you put a ported subbox in the trunk and then port it through the package tray into the passenger cabin. this allows you to utilize the trunk space for however many drivers of whatever size you want and then porting the box to the cabin puts the base directly where you are without getting absorbed. this is one of the best ways to get great bass. of course you've got to start with good drivers, wiring and power.
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#8
Cruisin'
Originally Posted by PTN
if you seal the sub in the trunk then yes. Hwever, this is not accurate if you put a ported subbox in the trunk and then port it through the package tray into the passenger cabin. this allows you to utilize the trunk space for however many drivers of whatever size you want and then porting the box to the cabin puts the base directly where you are without getting absorbed. this is one of the best ways to get great bass. of course you've got to start with good drivers, wiring and power.
-SJ
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