taschroth

I apologize up front if a detailed thread exsists on this, I did a lot of looking before posting.

I need to tap into the subwoofer at the rear deck (need access to the speaker wires to install a line level adapter).

I need the details on how to get the rear deck off... Do I need to remove the seat? Top and bottom? Do I have to pull the OEM driver to get to the wires?Where do I start?

Alternatley, is there any chance of getting to the subwoofer wires from underneath in the trunk? I don't need much room to just tap into the wires.

I have a pair of JL Audio 10"s in a custom box, downfiring with room above the box to still use the passthrough! Will post details of install.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

jamilla

i have done this. All you have to do is remove the plastic pins that hold the underside of the deck panel on from the trunk. Then pull out the panel. the sides are just tucked in. you have to tug a little. then get in on your back and look up. the wires are right there.

Jerky

how's the signal strength and quality by doing this

are you bypassing the stock sub or just splicing the signal into two signals.?

taschroth

Thanks Jamilla! That saves me a ton of time.

I am adding the sub leaving the OEM in place and functional. I will splice into the speaker wire, connect to a line level converter and run into a Kenwood amp that will power the 2 10" subs. The stock sub is ok at mid base but the last octave is barely there so I will crossover the new sub around 80 hz.

The line level converter does not put any load on the speaker or change the impedance so the stock sub will function normally. Past ad-on subs I have done worked great using this method. A speaker level to line level conversion that you then re-amplify is technically not a very pure signal but in the lower range notes you will not percieve any degradation. If I was adding mids or highs then I would work harder to fine a line level output from the head unit before any amplification.

taschroth

Here is a response to a private message I thought may be helpful....

Hi and thanks! Mine works fine, no noise, no thumping or huming. My line level converter is passive (non powered) and has adjustments for signal level output. Your crossover must specifically be designed to take the higher power speaker level outputs, otherwise you will need to low level converter. The RCA inputs of most AMPS is designed to take only the very weak signal from a line out (not been amplified) not a speaker out (HAS been amplified).

Your amplifier may have a built in crossover so you may not need the one you have. Don't confuse "low pass" with "line level". Low pass means to lower (bass) frequecncies "pass" through the filter. "low" or "line level" means the lower, non amplified full range SIGNAL from a source (like your head unit). As for a line converter, I went to the install dept. at HH Greg and got what they used ($20 US). It does NOT need to be fancy. You could get this at BestBuy or Circuit City as well.

It will have 4 wires to conect to the speaker wires althought th sub only has 2. Just use half of the converter. (I hooked up all 4, puting 2 on each speaker wire so I could have 2 outputs because my amp works better with both outputs). Let me know how it goes.

MOMOTL

Just out of curiosity....where is everyone tapping their remote wire from??? Or where is the best to tap of the remote wire.


By the way thanks taschroth you da man!!!!

taschroth

I just found a wire under the dash that was on with ignition only. Not sure what it is for. Here are some photos. The woofers are downfiring and leave room about to use the pass through. Box is 1.5 cubic feet, medium density partical board assembled with construction adhesive. Stuffed with poly fill.

MOMOTL

Wow first time I see subs facing down against the floor. Very neat set-up. So how does it sound??? By the way, I have my subs facing the back which rattles the trunk too much. I am thinking of facing the subs towards the seat and maybe that would help solve the problem. So with the subs facing downwards, are you getting any trunk rattles at all??

taschroth

No rattles, downfiring works great. Need to make sure you have enough room under the subs or the opening underneath will act like a port and change the resonance frequency of the sub.

If you really want DEEP / LOW bass you can design an isobaric enclosure where the subs are completely enclosed inside a box with all bass comping outside from a slot port. Fairly complex box to build however.

Mine is designed to enhance the bass and fill in the missing last octive, not rattle your teeth. It WILL hit hard on urban music and you can make it loud enough to hurt but standing outside the car you will barely hear it outside.

jamilla

Bass is an emminate (sp.) sound. No matter which way you fire them, if they are loud, they will rattle something. I have 1 solo square 15 and it rattles everything.