Rooster'sTL

Suddenly out of no where I'm getting a nasty feedback whine from my stereo (especially at low volume). The stereo is totally stock, i haven't made any changes what so ever. I have no clue what happened or where to start...any ideas?

(it's a 2004 Auto TL with Navigation)

nfnsquared

Is this radio, cd, xm? Was your rear defog on at the time?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

This is rare for an OEM system that was never altered. But, it sounds like a classic case of alternator noise. It's probably an issue with your ground. See if you can locate that and take a look.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Holy mother of God...
Finally someone else experiencing this. I have an 04 also...and although I AM altered, I am using the OEM amp and headunit.

I recently swapped amps to test it out with a friend of mine that has an 04 also...guess what...his had noise too. much lower obviously because it's not being amplified after the fact like mine but it was still there. My amp is louder than his but it was from one day to the next...NASTY alternator whine and buzzing...not present at 0 volume but yes at 1...it's not louder at lower volume, it's just not being drowned out by music. Not a big deal with music other than being annoying but with bluetooth where there's nothing masking it...it SUCKS!

I recently ordered some noise ground loop isolators from crutchfield in hopes of stopping it before it hits my aftermarket amp.

OEM amp...even at a discount...$280 from the dealer. I CAN'T justify that kind of money for OEM crap that might take another crap.

Good luck man...I wish you luck. Keep me posted on what you find out.

Rooster'sTL

I get the feed back on Radio and CD, I don't use the XM (i have been to lazy to call and do the cheap subscription trick).

The rear defrost was off...but the feedback is present with it on or off.

My first thought was alternator noise/bad ground...but wasn't sure what ground i should be looking at. The ground for the stereo itself (don't really want to tear apart my dash) or the main ground for the battery/engine...I will start there and let you know what i find.

Could there be a problem with my alternator and this is the first symptom?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Please keep me posted...
I can tell you, if you look at my other post for this same issue...
I have,
regrounded my radio and the OEM amp with my own grounds with no improvement at all.

I'm convinced it's something to do with the OEM amp being sound filter going south.
If the alternator going bad or beginning to is the culprit, I'd be glad to finally have found the problem. Please keep me posted of your results and finds as well.

Rooster'sTL

I will let you know what i find out...probably won't have time to really dig into it until the weekend....but i will post my findings.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks man...much appreciated. I just ordered some noise killers from cruthfield...they are the rca variety so I'm not sure if something LIKE that can be used to shut that OEM amp up. I too will post if it eliminates it, although obviously my aftermarket setup will be a bit different than yours although I'm fairly certain about us having the same source problem.

TheoSqua

I'm having a similar issue in my 04 TL, pretty sure it's a ground/altenator feedback. I get a low buzzing sound constantly, and a whine that fluctuates with my accelerator.

It's only coming out of the front tweeters, but is not from the actual signal (if you fade to the rear speakers you still get the feedback, and if the speakers are getting power they're also producing the feedback). And it only happens when the engine is running.

I really have no idea how to fix it

CSWBiggs

replace battery...
test the alternator for ac ripple using a digital multimeter...

-Jason

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

How might one go about doing that? Checking the alternator that is.

I read somewhere to hook up jumper cables to my gf's car...have my car on and see if the noise comes out on her system. That is supposed to eliminate the problem from being my car.

Could the alternator be bad? It seems all of us with this issue have 04's. I JUST replaced the battery because my previous one was dying. I got a bosch one that had a smaller amount of CCA but was meant for our cars. I also noticed that some of the battery acid had leaked out of the top of my battery. Not sure if it might have been because I touched something in my system and made it do that.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

It is my factory amp that has developed the noise.
Even with my hookup...I ain't paying $240 for another OEM amp that might take a dump again, and not offer anything extra and isn't something I can take with me.
So I think I'm leaning toward the audio control matrix for $200 to boost signal to my aftermarket amp and bypass the amp. I have it bypassed now but I have to have my gains set all the way up to have decent sound out of my speakers.

Rooster'sTL

Last week when i was going to head to my buddies shop and play around with the ground as stuff...the feedback totally disappeared! Freaking gremlins always run off when you want to trouble shoot. Then this morning i get in my car and it is back! Now I'm about to head out to LA for business then to WI for the holidays....so i won't be back until after new years to deal with this mess. Hopefully, when i get back you guys will have figured out the issue and I can make the changes and have a feedback free stereo again.

JG

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

For me, it was the OEM amp picking up the noise. Adding a ground/changing ground did nothing to eliminate the whine.

If yours comes and goes, that's a good sign!

Will Y.

If you've got Bluetooth activated on the cell phone, where are you putting your cell phone?

There is very audible feedback, which increases with volume, if I place my cell phone in the front console compartments under the audio/climate control stack, but no feedback when I put the phone into a cupholder or in the armrest compartments.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Maybe that!
Mine is always on my hip...and trust me...after all the troubles I went thru...my issue was def. not something simple. I can't begin to tell you how many times I took everything apart and put it back together!

CSWBiggs

take a digital multimeter....set it to ac...read the number...and reply back on this post...

-Jason

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Hmmm...thank you for that guidance, but I'd need more. In my case, i tried regrounding the alternator casing with NO effect on the sound. Bypassing factory amp eliminated my dreaded noise.

For future reference though, set to AC what interval though? And where do you touch...the coil and the case to see if there is a spike?

CSWBiggs

it's going to be milli volts...and just go straight to the battery...

also while you're there check both positive and negative battery cables as they tend to corrode from within the insulation....

-Jason

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Jason. I'll give that a whirl just to test it out...
So milliamps from battery to alternator then...
I have changed my OEM terminals to nickel plated ones that bolt on with an allen's wrench.

CSWBiggs

yeah...however the cable itself...will corrode from the inside...

-Jason

Rooster'sTL

So im back from traveling and finally had a chance to mess around with my stereo a little bit.

First off, i noticed my the negative battery terminal was REALLY corroded. So i pulled that off and cleaned the heck out of it. I have nice metal on metal contact again. This seemed to fix the problem...for about a day...then it was back.

Next I opened up the dash and re-set all the grounds, everything look good to start with...of course nothing changed.

Next I started doing a little testing to see if i could narrow it down.

1) feedback is only present with car on.
2) feedback is constant, it does NOT fluctuate with RPM's.
3) feedback is present on both CD and AM/FM
4) I do not use my blue tooth, i have checked to make sure it is off.
5) feedback is intermittent. Sometimes there is nothing, most of the time there is some, some of the time it is almost overpowering.


PLEASE HELP! i don't know what to do next!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Mine ended up being the OEM amp. I've removed it from the equation by replacing it with a line driver to send signal to my aftermarket amps and got rid of the noise. Even at my friend's cost the amp was $240 and to me, that's a lot to spend on something that might take a dump again and that I have to leave with the car.

I have another friend with an 04 that had this problem too recently. It's too much of a coincidence that now all these 04's are starting to have oem amp noise issues. Something must be going bad with them.

Rooster'sTL

Good to know...I had a suspicion that the OEM amp was the problem. I was a little worried that i was going to have to replace the whole unit including the Nav.

I'm going to have to look into a line driver and amp...do you have any recommendations?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I had tried using an audiocontrol matrix but I felt I paid too much for it so I returned it. Then I went with a audiobahn line driver I picked up for $85 shipped and so far it's doing it's job.

About an amplifier, what is your main goal...just to maintain sound? Or to boost it and make it louder?

I'm sure other's can chime in with very useful knowledge. I'm still trying to figure some things out myself.

Rooster'sTL

I more or less just want to maintain the sound. If i could boost it with just the amp, leaving all the speakers OEM i would be happy to do that. Basically, i'm not interested in overhauling my entire system, I would be totally happy if i could just get rid of the feedback.

When i have to replace things i usually try to upgrade...if i have to spend money I want things to get better not same/worse if you know what i mean.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Trust me brother...I'm the same way. That's why I refused to go with another OEM amp. Find something comparable...probably like a small 5 or 6 channel amp. Something with enough RMS to hit all 5 speakers and sub in one shot. Then a line driver to boost the signal from the radio.

Rooster'sTL

So i talked to a shop i have done business with before and they quoted me...over the phone...about $320 total to install a JL T2 4 channel amp and line driver.

The amp they are selling for $199, the rest of the cost is the line driver, wires, and install.

What are your thoughts on the price and the amp?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Honestly, if they do clean work, that's a great price. I'm not sure of the cost of that amp normally, but the line driver I got was $85 and can go up to $200. If they install it and it kills the noise...it will be a cheap and happy solution (obviously everything is relative, a few months ago I would have said $320 was a lot till I spent the time and money I have to figure out this problem).

PLUS...JL is a pimp brand...PLUS...it's yours and you can take it to your next car.

Good move, I think. That's probably what you would pay for the OEM amp (remember the quote I got was from a friend that gave me the quote at his cost)

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'm assuming you'll either lose center channel (does this affect NAV voice?) or power THAT and your factory sub with the factory amp.
I will warn you that I tried using the factory amp for the center thinking it wouldn't be noticeable, but since it's right there in your face...it's audible (the buzz).

Since they've already quoted you a fee for labor...and all you'd really be doing is adding parts...why don't you find out how much it would be to throw in a small 1 channel sub amp and maybe a 10" or 12" in a sealed box back there. I'd hate to think you'd be upgrading the power to the inside speakers and then overpower the factory sub.

Just an idea...

Rooster'sTL

I stopped in the shop and we talked through all the options i had to fix the problem...many...here they are...

First with the 4 channel amp mentioned above I'm losing BOTH the center and sub. Why pay $320 to down grade.

i could get a pimp 5 channel Memphis amp on '09 blow out, normally $700 for $450 plus install, so about $550. Here i would have a retarded amp powering OEM speakers. Sort of a waste, but would give me the option to step it up later.

I could get the JL amp plus a small sub and box...but that set up is still going to cost and is not ideal, i really don't want a box in my trunk.

Here is what i am leaning toward, but don't know if i can justify it. New Hertz hi-energy speakers all the way around powered by the JL amp. I was told this set up would "S**t on my factory set up, even with no sub". Draw back? I'm looking at $1,100 here.

Final option...I find an amp out of a crashed 04-06 and plug and play.

I should add that these guys don't mess around and are a highly respected shop, they are happy to do any of the above options.

So for me it is either a completely new system or a used amp. What do you think?

Rooster'sTL

one last comment...on the $1,100 set up, i can always transfer it to my next car...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That's true. For what you describe...it sounds to me like you just want to rid yourself of the noise. So going from not having to spend money to spending $1100 is a big jump.

I personally have been looking into image dynamics...they have some options out there that, with the right power to them, will DEFINITELY crap on the factory system and at a fraction of the cost. I think you're better off researching and purchasing things yourself and then just paying the shop to install.

This way you can avoid them pushing their product and paying the markup.

Let's see...with the issue you're experiencing...I'd start with the JL route...

You won't hear the buzz noise in the subwoofer as it's a higher frequency.

Ok...IMO...
If I were in your boat, I'd go this route because it's cheaper and allows you to upgrade down the line, if you choose to...while still eliminating your problem and making it so you could take it with you. Replacing with another OEM amp may give you the same problem (i swapped with a friend of mine and his had it too) and that'll be money wasted.

4 Channel JL Amp
Keep OEM amp for Sub
Keep OEM amp for center channel. If the buzz is audible and annoys you, pull up the center speaker (with fingernail) and disconnect it at the speaker.

THEN...if you're not happy without the center, you can look for other options.

Good?

Rooster'sTL

I was thinking about it more last night and i would love to have a pimp stereo, but if i am going to spend $1,100 on my car I would have to go with a Borla Exhaust...so that option is out.

I like the idea of just dropping in the JL and running my sub off the OEM amp...but i found an OEM amp for $60 and i could plug that thing in myself. So i'm still debating if i should gamble on the $60 solution or if i should go with the sure fix JL.

Rooster'sTL

I just talked to my friend who works at an Acura dealship in Chicago and she said she could get me a new OEM amp for $240+shipping. I think that is the answer.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I have a friend locally that also will give me that price (I'm also confirming that that IS the bottom line employee price, lol)...but...I'm very worried that these OEM amps are just prone to the problem.

I wish I knew more...I'd post a pic of the amp internals and ask an electronics guru what I could solder in there to kill the noise.

$60 bucks for another amp is a risk...but IMO so is the new one and at 4 times the cost. If you're serious about that option I almost feel like you'd be better served installing the JL amp for a hundred more.



PS...not sure how loud you'd want your exhaust, but google acurazine exhaust stage 1 2 3 4 options. A SWEET G35 sound can be had with about $80. I have a stage 3 and I absolutely love it.