Hello gents, I'm starting to buy equipment to put a system into my 04' Acura TL and I'm planning on keeping the stock look as well as operational steering wheel controls. First off, you DO keep the steering wheel controls when you use the 3Sixty right? Second off, which one do I buy, the 360.1 or the 360.2, what are the benefits/shortcomings of each and does anyone have any experience with using them? Any info would be appreciated!

 

The Difference between the two module is not much except you have more controls for the crossover settings on the 3sixty.2 as well as the 31 band EQ settings instead of 15 band on the 3sixty.1 . Either one will let you retain the steering controls.
Only downside about having 3sixty is that you have to have bluetoth device like palm or windows mobile device to do all the settings via bluetooth. But don't worry, Rockford Fosgate made a Beta software for your Desktop or Laptop computer so can connect to 3sixty via bluetooth adapter (or bluetooth dongle). I'm still in the process of making changes to the settings so my sound system will sound just as I want it to. If you're in the Los Angeles Area I know a place where they sell 3sixty.1 for $350 and $400 for the 3sixty.2 . ( yes, only $50 difference)
I know that you can purchase these products from E-bay for less but they do not come with the warranty.

here's my setup on my 2008 TL type-s

Kicker zx700.5 5ch. amplifier
JL Audio XR650 CSI Component Speakers inthe front
Infinity Kappa 6.5 in the rear deck
Kicker 12 inch CVR in a bandpass box
I'm still using the output from the factory unit for the center but will upgrade the speaker soon

 

get the 3sixty.2... you'll regret it if you don't...

Additionally... get a qualified audio professional, with RF 3sixty experience, to set up your Gains, EQ and Crossover point on both the Amplifiers and 3sixty... it make a world of difference...

KINEMATRIX makes a great point... get it from an authorized dealer... 'cause after 10 months of use... my 3sixty.2... stopped from being able to be connected to via Bluetooth... so Rockford took in back and fixed the problem... it seemed to be a common issue... they said that the soldering points became lose after constant bass vibrations... it's as good as new now... if I didn't have any warrantee... it would have been useless...

I hear there is a new OEM Integration device being released by JBL this year... it's supposed to be the best of them ALL... I believe it's the JBL MS-8 ...

Good Luck and happy listening...

 

Are there other products that do the same thing as the 360 that might be better? I heard something about a 'cleansweep' or something like that, is that good? Or are there any other devices that will Xfer the signal so I can keep stock head unit?

@ RodneyC - So you get with any of those girls in your avatar? Like Ron Simmons says......DAMN.

 

3sixty.2 >(better than)> cleansweep in my opinion...

No... there was no spooning of the models during those photoshots... lol

 

I just completed an upgrade to my system and I choose to use the 3Sixty.2 over the .1 due to the Bluetooth ability and added EQ abilities. To use my Laptop I downloaded the .zip file with the 3Sixty.2 Software from the RF website and installed it in a matter of seconds. This is better than using a Palm or Handheld cuz there is a ton of bands to play with a little space to do it with a handheld. I did have to buy a Rocketfish Bluetooth adapter though, which is no big deal.

I will tell you that all of the OEM interfaces still operate as normal as I did keep the OEM Stereo to keep my interior looking stock. I have had no issues and continue to play with the settings on the EQ for different types of music. Another tip: Use LOTS of Dynamat...it really does make the difference!

New System:

2) Alpine 10" Type X Subs
1) Alpine PDX 1000.1
1) Alpine PDX 150.4
1) Power Acoustik 10 Farad Cap
1) RF 3Sixty.2 Signal Processor
1 PR) Alpine 6.5" Type X (REF) Components (Fronts)
1 PR) Alpine 6.5 Type X (REF) Coax (Rears)

 

you can also go active with the 3sixty.2 and time alignment adjusting 2. Ill never go back to using passive crossovers

 

Can you explain how you go active with a 3 way or even a 2 way setup with the rf 3Sixty.2, I guess in my case I'd need 4 3sixty.2 's in my car to be active.

I now have the Dynaudio system 360 / 340 yes both in my car, with a 10w6 sealed & stuffed

 

Busa,

By going active as you might already know simply means you would not have to involve the crossover network for component systems if you have the 3Sixty installed. The 3Sixty would essentially be your crossover network for your entire system with summing capabilities for both your front (staging) or rear speaker sets. The 3Sixty also has the feature to add 4 differents styles of frequency passings (All Pass, Band Pass, High Pass or Low Pass). The 3Sixty also would act as your central 5.1 processor with pre-amp outs to exteral amplifiers e.g (Center Channel Amp, Subwoofer Amp(s), Rear Amp(s) etc.)

 

you would need to use (2) 3sixty.2's to do a true 3 way active tweeter, mid, mid bass, sub.

Going active would just involve the 3sixty.2 controlling all over your X-over point instead of using the passive crossovers which in my opinion suck. You have more control using an active set up and can generally run more power to your separates and will have less noise/distortion, then using passive crossovers. With a good ear and some fine tuning you can have a great sounds running active that the same passive system cant touch.

ive ran active on all my headunit from the Premier P9 in my honda to the premier 880 in my mazda and its a nice upgrade from a passive set up

 

So hence, my new stage of development begins. I will be going taotally active. I have purchase 2 ref 350.2 Zapco's and 1 ref 200.2 Zapco. These will be for the front stage only. I will be keeping the rears, but their purpose is only to kill road noise while traveling. So the best setting for those will be 15%-25% volume. I'll be going balanced rather than the typical single ended scenario using additional BLT's, I first starting with the doors and going with the dynaudio MW 170, and paired with the current MD140/2 & MD 100. I have the MW 172 but like the the 170 driver, just a bit more natural little warmer than the more neutral sounding 172. Will see if they fit ??? more to come on the install process of the amps and complete reconfig of the truck, to have that audio competion look we all like so much.

 

i'm have diamond audio component for both front and rear, its come with cross over, so do i just elemenate the cross over that come with it or what. THANKS

 

If you know what your doing, yes, If not, don't play with it until your absolutely sure you know what your doing.

 

For all you guys who are using the 3sixty, have you picked up the signal from the stock head unit itself or did you go after the stock amplifier.... i wonder what would be the better solution in terms of Sound to noise ratio. Right now my 3.sixty is connected after the stock amp which from my experience is very noisy as it is. I just wonder if it;s worth resplicing everything....

 

does anyone have the wire diagram so i can hook up my 360???

 

I did it both ways - first try was after the amp, but the noise floor was LOUD and a real distraction. I bit the bullet and re-spliced before the stock amp, using RCA pigtails. I am much happier. Note I kept the stock amp for the center channel, so I had to bridge the sub-input and the center-input during the OEM install wizard (per the R-F tech guide).

Now I run my HU full out (volume:40) to get the proper [LEDs-just-blinking] input into the 3sixty; I did not use line drivers. I use the aux control to control the overall volume. Since the HU will change its EQ based on its volume setting, letting the 3sixty control your volume makes the system EQ constant. (hope that make sense).

Since I still use the stock amp for the center channel, that speaker is set one click above OFF in the HU. Otherwise, being driven at 40, it's waaay tooo dominant in the soundstage.

 

send me your email I'send you the pdf

 

I am attempting to build a system and I've had a few previously but no expert by any means here. Any advice someone wants to chime in with would be appreciated. I listen to mostly altrock, classicrock, oldwave, and some country. I prefer SQ over SPL and I'm more impressed by clean amp'd music (especially mids) over boom.
Here's my design so far:
Stock HU
RF 3Sixty.2
PPI A404 (2) 4x50 4ohm
Hertz K6L 6.5 Comps 100rms
Hertz HCX-165 Coaxs 100rms
Boss Audio 3.5 Center 140rms
JL ZR800 Sub 125rms

Q: How would you run 6(5.1) channels for the design using at least 1 PPI amp I have/plan to use for the Hertz Comps? THANKS!

 

What does the Power Acoustik 10 Farad Cap do? I'm in the process of putting together a system and non of the shops mentioned this.

 

Ditch the power acoustik, but seriously you dont need a cap, just upgrade the battery and do the big 3 up front and you will be fine. I ran 3 jl amps on the stock mazda speed protege's alt and all i did was upgrade to a Stinger battery and upgrade the Big 3 and had no issues and the mazda alt was small and put out little to no power. I know the TL's alt's have to be much better so you should be fine.

 

So if you have factory nav and you catch the signal before the factory amp will u lose blue-tooth or nav features, I keep hearing the debate about some people losing features and some people not. Im catchging post amp and just wondering.

 

I use both Blu-tooth and Nav and no, have not lost anything. Note I still run the center thru the stock amp.

The audio still mutes during HFL activity, so the HU must be muting the low-level signal.