bignutz

I need to run a remote wire for an aftermarket amp, but not sure where to get it from. Is the wire just a signal to turn on the controls of the amp? Can I use power from the fuse box that only turns on when the radio is on, or do i need to find it some where else?

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, a switched source is what you want to connect to. I believe slot 32 on the fuse box by the drivers foot/hood release is a switched 12v source.

Type S Love

Do not tap into the fuse, you run the risk of getting the ground loop sound in your speaker. Use the 12v factory amp wire as the remote power for your aftermarket amp.

TheBumbino

I ended up using the stock sub wiring on the high level input of my amp.

It sounds ok but I don't have the control over my sub I would like and the signal is not the cleanest and dosen't have much variance in volume ranges. I constantly have to change my sub volume to match the song or I get drowned out with bass. When I go up past 0 it barely makes a difference it's usually in the negative ranges to match the song. I have done alot of testing with settings on my amp but I had to find a happy medium where I can still get nice bass. I ran a 5 volt preout on my old car for my subs and it sounded amazing. I really want to upgrade to a JL cleansweep or something similar to clean up the signal and just use RCA cables. I really am not a fan of how loud it will be at lower volumes.

Best bet to see if you like the sound before taking it further as said earlier is to either tap into a fuse or just splice into the stock wiring and use a high level input. On my amp it sends the audio signal and it also will not turn on till it senses the audio signal from the high level input. Those are your two options high level inputs or tapping a fuse.

I hate cars

That fuse is fine. You're not going to get noise from the remote turn on lol.

BlitzBlackGSXR

The LOC i have has a remote turn on lead built into it and thats what i used

Type S Love

I tried the fuse, and I got the pop noise in the speaker during start up. Plus it is really shady to shove a wire into a fuse location, when you can use the 12v remote the car already has for the factory amp. Why bother doing things the crappy way?

I hate cars

You have so much to learn. You don't just shove a wire in there. You buy an adaptor that plugs in. If yours had a pop, you used the wrong fuse. Crappy is an 8" sub in the factory location, not a proper remote turn on location.

Type S Love

It was fuse #32, and it was my front drivers side door which made the noise. Oh by the way my 8" sub sounded amazing all day today! Just thought I would let you know.

To the originator of this question, you can go ahead and get yourself an adapter and tap into the fuse panel if you want, because that is exactly what fuse panels are made for......

OR you can just use the 12v remote wire for the factory amp which is located behind the passenger side kick panel since the factory amp will no longer in use if you are putting in an aftermarket one. So amazingly there is a 12v remote just hanging out waiting to be used. Also, you will be mainly working on the passenger side of the car since that is the location of all the audio wires.

So create more work for yourself, or use something which already exists to your benefit. Choice is yours.

I hate cars

I finally agree with something you said, it's more work to tap into the factory 12v amp turn on than to snap an adapter in the fuse panel.

I'm happy for you that you think it sounds good. That's all that matters. Some people think the stock sub sounds great. Some people's standards are higher than others.

One speaker making a noise is not the result of the remote location.

There are issues that many of us don't want to deal with by tapping into the factory power supply. One is that the power is not always cut when you turn the key off. This is very important to me and many others. IGN hot will turn the amps on and off with a turn of the key every time.

Taking it from the fuse box on the driver's side is a no-brainer since most power wires are run down that side, most signal wires are run down the passenger side and you want to keep power and signal separate. Sit back and learn a thing or two.

Type S Love

Yes, you do want to keep your power and signal wires to separate that is why the amp power wire is normally run down the drivers side of the vehicle, and the speaker wires are run down the passenger side. SO why is it a no brainer to tap into the fuse panel on the drivers side and place the remote wire next to the amp power wire if you want to keep power and signal separate? Sounds like you are doing the exact opposite with that set up...

THTL

iTrader: (2)

pohljm

Oh my! This is not looking good!
The remote trigger is power not signal!!!
And besides the OEM trigger has been known to sometimes not provide enough current to trigger some amps/devices.

I hate cars

WTF? Do you think the remote wire is signal? It's power! Like I said in the other thread, sit back, read, learn, instead of making crazy statements.

BukvaMan

I used the fuse adapter as well. Spliced one going to the trunk and one going across to my RF-BLD line driver to power it and I just jumped the feed to remote as it doesn't draw much power anyways. No noises everything sounds good.

All i really need now is a sound processor to get some kind of a stage.

Type S Love

Works like a champ in my car!

Type S Love

SO we agree on something finally, but your standards are just higher then mine. NOTED. I don't still see the need to tap into the fuse panel, its necessary. You are right some cars 12v remote wire do not put out enough power to turn on an after market amp, but we are all talking about the same car, and this cars 12v remote wire does not have the problem.

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Type S Love

You know what I may be new to this, but I am at least making a valiant effort to learn and do things on my own in order to learn stuff instead of just taking it just taking it some where and have a stereo place install it for me. The stuff I learned is self taught, not a lot of people would put the time, effort or even have the bravery to do something like this. I so glad the folks on this site are supportive.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking your first 23 posts are the reason people are so "supportive" to you

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Do you not know what site you are on? Myself and many others are self taught as well.

BlitzBlackGSXR

You are making an effort , which is good . But dont argue that your way is better than another. Just simply give your opinion and thats it.


I cut up my front doors to get my components to fit and spaced off correctly. I actually took apart my interior to run all my cables and installed all my speakers. But I first took the time to search on topics that have been discussed and beaten to death on the best way to do things . Others have done it way before we did , some many more times after redoing their setups , so I wouldnt be the one to argue with someone who has way more knowledge about these cars than me.

I hate cars

Most of us are self taught. Most of us asked questions when learning instead of making fun of people's setups we don't understand. Eggy's comment might have kicked it off but thats no reason to go on the offensive against other members, especially when its based on assumption. I asked some really dumb questions, all you have to do is go back a year or two to read them. People were nice to me because I knew I didn't know much and I asked questions instead of making fun of other peoples setups.

kgbishop

where do i find this wire if anybody can answer this question please

kgbishop

i have a dx1000.1 kicker amp (1000 watt amp powering 2 12s) nothing that fuse is useless -_- lucky my amp has dc setting where it can pick up from the audio input that the car is on

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Are you referring to the speaker level input...?

csmeance

If I remember correctly, there is either an orange or red/yellow wire on the factory amp that is the remote turn on for the factory amp. However there's 1 problem, the wire is 9V and not 12V like everyone though. Either it's that or I'm thinking of a completely different car and I hope not.

If that's not correct, follow the advice by I hate Cars and use Fuse #32 with a Add a circuit plug.

Extipsy

So is it better to run the aftermarket amp's remote wire to the #32 accessory fuse? Or to the remote wire on the factory amp?

My current setup is my aftermarket amp's remote wire is running to the cabin fuse box. But I was thinking of running it to my factory amp's remote wire to take off some of the stress on my alternator when I turn my radio off, rather than having the amp always on even when the radio is off.

flyromeo3

why not use the turn on lead from the factory amp?

Extipsy

Because I don't know which wire it is and how reliable it is. Everyone else told me to just use the fuse. Because sometimes the factory amp's turn on lead doesn't have enough power to turn on both amps? And I heard other problems with it but I'm not sure if it's just hearsay. How is your remote wire connected?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

I went to the cabin fuse box. In my research I kept reading the factory turn on lead won't have enough signal so I didn't try that

Steven Zimmerman

run it from amp to your windshield wiper fuse so if you just want to listen to music while your sitting in your car just turn it to position one this will allow u to listen to music with no sub and when your ready to boom boom turn it to second position or start car that’s unless you just love the boom boom all day and night 🤙🏻