K. Going to test ohms and I'll post a pic here in a few seconds.

Touching the leads of the DMM on the terminals on the outside of the box gave me a reading of 3.5-3.6 ohms. Isn't that right? I mean the amp see's 2ohms, but they're DVC 4ohm subs


Hopefully everything looks okay...
http://i40.tinypic.com/2vknjbr.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/2nrhjs7.jpg

On the very far right side I've got ground going in the left terminal and power in the right terminal. That's a new fuse too as I thought the fuse my have been bad that came with the amp.

Page 8 of the manual seems to indicate that you need to use all 4 of the output terminals, although that makes no sense to me. You could try running 2 + and 2 - to the speaker, even in series.

Electromedia tech support guy seems to think the amp has a bad output channel, but he didn't know what the blinking code was. Hmm

Use your DMM and test voltage at the speaker terminals. See if you are getting anything.

I put the DMM in the terminals that weren't being used and got nothing. Should I be getting something or is that normal when no speaker wire is in there?

This is such a pain to do with everything mounted on the box.

Might go plug the sub up to the p900.4 & see what happens. It's good for 200ish @ 2ohms, but I'll at least see if the sub is okay.

Guess I'll put this Audison up for sale. Anyone here interested? Might be a cheap ad easy fix for someone that knows what to do

Yes, you should get a voltage reading without speaker wire in there. Good idea to use the other amp to test the sub with.

Yeah I figure it can't hurt. Going to just rip all the crap off the box for now b/c I'm sick of having to move everything constantly.

If the amp is in protect...any idea what I should ask for it?? They retail for $650+ here and there was one on DIYMA used for $400. Still texting the guy I purchased it from, but he said this didn't happen to him.....but who knows. People are shitty nowadays. Maybe he purchased it recently enough to have it warrantied

Sub works. Bad amp

Try wiring it the way that they have it in the manual.

Text that dood and ask him if he used all 4 output terminals, or just 2. The manual seems to indicate that you can only use two when you bridge/strap the amp. The unstrapped diagram appears to need to use all 4.

You could also try wiring outside to outside - this is the way that a lot of bridged amps roll (L+ and R- (usually)).

Again, I don't see how it could matter on a monoblock, but worth a try before you scrap it.

If it is broke, you can probably get it fixed by db-R for less than a hundred. It is a good amp and if he fixed it, I would consider it as good as new. That amp should be able to last you near a lifetime if you don't abuse it or blow it out.

Next time, don't hide or mount anything until you get it all squared away and tuned. I have used bungie cords and rachet straps to hold stuff in place for a few weeks while I worked out kinks. :) The cargo net in the TL works great.

Yeah I don't see why that would matter, but I asked him. I only had power, ground and remote in it and it was in protect. Shitty people on Craigslist..

He said it was under 6months old in his FS post, so maybe it's still under warranty

If not under warranty, look to get it fixed. Otherwise you will probably take a bath on it.

Not sure how to go about this tomorrow when I call the place he bought it from. He said the shop "knows him" so I cant fake being him and change my address.

If I cant get it warrantied, there's a guy locally that says he fixes amps but no telling the quality of parts, craftsmanship, etc he has. Is that DB-r place the best and/or cheapest for amp repair??

Give that shop a shot. They might be cool if they "know him." ...or even show you some tricky stuff to get it to work.

I don't know about best or cheapest, but I have sent db-r a few amps and he has always been fair and the work was very good. I don't know if I have ever seen a bad review of his work.

His rep meant a lot to me since I was sending him some super-nice older stuff that would be hard to replace.

That shop won't do shit. I'll either have to send it to Elletromedia (Audison) or DB-r, etc. Not sure how much this will cost, but I doubt it will be cheap.

Looks like I might have to reverse look up this guys phone number and pay him a visit. I'm sure a few hundred dollars worth of damage to his truck shouldn't be a problem..

Anything Look Bad?
 

Audison SR1dk board...

LEFT
http://i41.tinypic.com/33vntyf.jpg

MIDDLE
http://i44.tinypic.com/kb8dv.jpg

RIGHT
http://i41.tinypic.com/34zlxtx.jpg

i know a guy who woud love to fix that but we are in Ontario.

Bummer. Looks like I'll have it shipped back to Audison. Hope it's a cheap fix! I picked it up for a STEAL so I don't feel too bad...just sucks I have to wait weeks now for a sub.

Is there a way you could sketch this and post it?? I'm going to try to use both speaker terminals before I send it off. I figure why not just try random stuff since I can't get it to work. I don't see how I could use all 4 terminals with a single DVC 4ohm sub.

Could I just daisy chain the positive input to the other positive input? Same with negative. Basically just a little 2" wire at the amp that makes both positives and both negatives hooked up...and then run the POS and NEG sub wires coming from the box to the amp in either of the 2 sets of terminals


The only thing is that it's in protect without any speaker wire even going in to the amp. Most amps won't go into protect if you don't have a sub or speakers plugged up ya know. Maybe Audison is different and I'll try it, but I'm not going to get my hopes up.

Just run dual wires - 2 to each terminal that you have a wire run to now.

Some of the better amps need to sense a resistance before they will even turn on.

The diagram is on the Audison web page - find the amp, download the manual and go to page 8.

Probably a long shot, but worth a try. Try the outer terminals first. Perhaps it is puking looking for a resistance from L+ and R-.

Yeah I printed out the manual before I picked up the amp. That is weird how they show that so I'll try it. They show 1 SVC sub using all 4 terminals, so maybe you're right! That'd be nice :wish:

Anyone have any amps laying around they'd want to either loan to me until my Audison returns?? Or just sell me??

I found a Pioneer GM-8500M (600 @2ohms) locally...but figured I'd ask on here first

You have got to be fucking kidding me....




Yes...that's my IDmax. A blown IDmax, an Audison amp that's in protect, and a PPI p900.4 with a stripped set screw and a big bump in the middle of the amp.


I'm LIVID right now :angryfire:

I would be extremely pissed as well. PM sent on DIYMA. I'll send you a W6 and 1,000w class D Infinity sub amp to help out if you want.

I picked up Diamond D1000.1 locally for pretty cheap to have while I figure out wtf I'm going to do with the Audison.

I sent you a PM back on DIYMA

I don't know if they archive the PM's on there, but I've gotten so many from multiple people about stuff that I'm selling, etc that I only have like 5-6 PM's from that latter portion of me purchasing the IDmax. I did make that thread on there, which should add validity to the dates, etc.


Just got off the phone with SonicElectronix also because I'm having to ship back my P900.4 b/c of a stripped set screw and a large bump in the middle of the amp. I think something is messed up b/c it gets WAY to hot in a short period of time. That bump shouldn't be there..so I'm guessing that might be the culprit. Go figure...they're out of stock but said they're getting some in this upcoming week. I'm starting to think I'm not supposed to be in car audio!!

seems like alot of scams on car audio equipment. I am looking on my local craigslist for deals, but this has got me a bit scurred

Usually I either make sure they're hooked up, test them on my own equipment, etc...but the one time I didn't check I get screwed. I wouldn't be scared about it. I just purchased a Diamond D1000.1 from a guy about 2 miles from me on Craigslist & it works perfectly. I'm sure I'll put it up FS once my Audison gets back, but still...just check em and you'll be okay.

Wish I would have seen this thread earlier -- you might have gotten some ideas from my build. It's only about 80% finished, but I'll post a spoiler in a few. :D

false floor!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5291479/20120320_144704.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5291479/20120320_144740.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5291479/20120320_144753.jpg

Basically a big piece of carpeted birch to mount all of the equipment, then some 3" risers and a new floor above that. Initially we were just going to raise the middle and taper them off to the sides but we decided to flatten everything out. Surprisingly didn't take long to build, but then again my installer was pretty handy with a saw. I screwed up on the carpet and got the wrong color but I don't care -- it's close enough.

PS -if you see water then take your interior liner out and run the hose on various entry points to see if you can isolate. Hopefully it's not a seal with the rear windshield...

Wow first time on Azine in a little while and I see this post now that I'm starting to try and figure out a set up for my Avalon:whyme:. Now I'm reconsidering if I even want to jump into car audio again lol, and I have a chance bid going for an IDMax on ebay right now too lol:what:. Damn I knew I should have just left things alone.. good luck with your system hopefully things start getting better.

Yeah a false floor was another route I thought about taking. It's simple and you only loose 3" of height. Might still go this route, but I dunno. I just have to worry about fixing the Audison, fixing the IDmax, returning the P900.4, fixing this and that.. :ugh:

Nice Masconi's btw!

Yeah, car audio can be a PITA, but I'm just having some really shitty luck. If you link the IDmax on here, I can have a look at it. BuickGN made a good point to me that my surround didn't stand as tall as normal, likely meaning a sagging spider, blown. I will say that the PPI phantom amps are pretty badass little guys. Tons of power for the price. Wish I would have just picked up the P1000.1 also, but now I have an Audison sr1dk that's broke and a Diamond d1000.1 lol.

As if I wasn't already annoyed with everything going on, my "D" light on the gauge cluster started to blink today on the way to work. A quick search on here reveals that it's some sort of code through the PCM (power control module) that can only be read at the dealership. This code blinks if there's a problem with the transmission....


you've gotta be kidding me! Guess I'll be calling 5-star Transmissions and telling them they can re-do my transmission :whyme:

Looks like I get to eat the cost for the dealership to read the code. $2500 for rebuilt transmission and it's still as shitty as when they put it on the tow truck. It's ridiculous.

IHC...what ATF and filter should I go with? I don't want to get too crazy and go with the racing ATF quite yet. Maybe ease into that. Hopefully I'll benefit from 3rd/4th switches and some Redline D4 or something....

Heres the auction I'm bidding on http://www.ebay.com/itm/110843285018...=p5197.c0.m619
Seller actually put real pics up finally I had to email him for the pics when the auction first started. I figured if it stays low the risk isn't too bad. I'll keep the PPI's in mind for a possible future install I definitely need a sub amp because even if I don't get the IDMax I have the IDQ still sitting waiting for an install.

Yup my transmission was starting to mess up, along with other various pieces of my TL. I got tired of constantly having something to work on in the car because it was breaking, many people with Acura's in my area are ditching them because of this. And now since they're cheap so many other people are picking them up.. little do they know the reason why so many are being sold.

Any DextronIII fluid will work. That includes Amsoil "ATF", Redline D4, or the cheap stuff at the auto parts store. Straight type F is what I recommend, especially for your first drain and fill since it will only be around 50% new fluid.

If you've never done switches, they're way overdue. Every 2-3 years is about right. I would read the code first, it could be something very simple. Do you notice anything wrong with the way it drives?

It feels sluggish, like it has no power. UP into 3rd and 4th are rough. Reverse to Drive takes a solid 3-4 seconds.

I know I personally have never done the switches, though I thought they would be smart enough to replace them when doing the rebuild. Seriously...the worst tranny shop I've ever heard of. He even admitted that he's seen those go out on Acura's/Honda's & still didn't replace them. :whyme:

I'm going to order the switches and some ATF tomorrow most likely. It didn't flash at me at all on the drive home today and when it flashed in the morning I just shut it off at a stoplight, turned it back on and it went away (went solid). I'll use that $60+ that it will take to read the code at a dealership and put that towards the switches/ATF.

Wow...I'm kicking myself right now. Sold my Sundown 100.4 AND the Kenwood XR-4s I picked up. Now I'm left with a broken PPI p900.4 and it looks like it might be A LONG TIME until they get more in stock at SonicElectronix.

Still don't know what to do about the Audison and Fedex is picking up the blown IDmax for inspection or whatever today. Talk about bad luck...


SonicElectronix told me they'd have them in by last Monday or Tuesday, but still nothing...and now they're stating they have no clue when they'll get them. I purchased another to so they'd ship it out immediately. Nothing like purchasing 4 items (2 PPI's, IDmax, Audison) and not being able to use any of them. The PPI tech on DIYMA said it could be awhile so I might just go a different route.

Any thoughts or ideas??