Trunk Monkey

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New Gear!

Kenwood XR-4s is gone now. Lets just say I sold it before I even picked it up on craigslist lol. Paid for my box build!






I keep going back and forth about amp locations. I can't decide if I want to remove the spare tire and make an amp rack down there. I have 2 amps, 3sixty.2 and distro block. I thought about just being simple and mounting them on the box, obviously with some sort of decoupling for vibrations between the box and separate board that the amps would be mounted on, but that scares me a little. Here's a drawing (...to exact scale!! ) of what it would be like if they were mounted on the box. Not enough room for the 360 or the distro block, so those would have to go on the sides or hide them somewhere.


Speaker wire and RCA's up left side; Power/Ground up right side of box; black is tech flex or Heat Shrink tubing that I'll use to clean it up.



It gets really hot here in the summers so I fear that the amps would get even hotter with no real air flow below the floor in the spare tire area. It's already getting pretty nice here this early. This summer might be scorching like last summer. I deadened my plastic door panels yesterday and it was like 80. Unheard of for Oklahoma at this time. Anyways...Thoughts on location?

KJ TL-S

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That's a nice lookin' table you got there.....would make a much nicer trunk

Looking forward to see how you fit it all in there. I reseached, debated, and came close to purchasing a variation of every piece there but the Audison, and I know its all good stuff. Still wish I coulda made it happen with the IDMAX, but in the end I couldn't risk trying to expand the opening in my Uncald4 box.

I hate cars

I would put everything under the seats that will fit.

I ran my amps in the spare tire well for a long time in 105 degree Bakersfield summers and 115 degree Phoenix summers and never had an issue with overheating but they were too hot to touch and I'm sure some of it was equipment specific. It's definitely not the best thing for electronics.

I also had the amp screwed to the box for a while with the box carpet, a layer of rubber, and rubber under the screw heads and never had an issue.

But under the seats solves several problems...

eggyhustles

cant believe u ditched the sundown

tsk tsk tsk

I hate cars

And the W6s!

But at least he has the IDMax now, that should sound good and have the output of nearly 1.5 W6s.

25mm xmax and 44mm xsus! It's xmax is the same as the W6's xsus and xsus is 70% higher.

KJ TL-S

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I agree on under the seats, which is the main reason I was amp shopping again instead of sticking with my 500/1. I didn't want things visible in trunk, or even in there at all to be honest. Just ordered a JL XD 500/3 to use instead. Damn thing is tiny and will give enough power for my applications, which is obviously not as high end as others, but decent none the less.

I hate cars, quick question to you - to get the amp's power wires under the seat, where did you pull them out of the door jams? Also, what do you use to secure the amps under the seats?

niebur3

Nice....should be a clean sounding setup!!!

Trunk Monkey

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I know, I know lol. Should have kept the Sundown. Can't wait to get the P900.4 set up and see how it compares. Also can't wait to see how this IDmax does. It will be in 1.6 cubes after sub displacement on 950rms-ish. Should do pretty well


Thanks! I keep looking at your setup to give me motivation to make something nice looking and not just mounting them on the box. I'd really like to do the spare route.

Trunk Monkey

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Going in the spare location. Hope it turns out clean

Trunk Monkey

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So I went to remove my spare and build the amp rack last night...and there was standing water near the middle bolt. About 1" of water in 2 or 3 places. I have no idea how that got there, but I'm definitely not running wires near something that can get wet. I looked around and count see water stains or rust anywhere to explain where this came from.

I did remove the bolt that holds down the spare and just tossed it back in there a few days ago without securing it down. We had quite a bit of rain the last few days..could it have gotten in that way? There was also 2 little, round, black things that you can press in..kinda squishy. Wasn't sure what that was..just wondering.

Anyways...I have no clue how that water got in there. Now im at a loss for what to do

pohljm

Way better to have found the water infiltration that way instead of when the system shorts out! Placing expensive electronics in the low point of the vehicle that has already had water in it would make me a little scared until your sure you have addressed the source.

Trunk Monkey

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Yeah. I just really didn't want to put the amps on the box. I swear..this car is one headache after another

I hate cars

Have you thought about a basic amp rack suspended from the rear tray? You could use all-thread and sheet metal, probably $20 worth of material. It wouldn't have to be much lower than the thickness of the amps.

I had no problems with the amp screwed into the sub box in the past. The box should not have a whole lot of vibration. Between the carpet and rubber isolator, you should be fine.

Trunk Monkey

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I thought about that but with the box already 13" tall there's not that much room for a suspended rack hanging from the rear deck. Plus both amps use top side ventilation...which is a big reason I didn't want them on the box. I really have no choice now unless I built a false floor, but that would raise the floor by about 4" and that's just against the whole point of this build..trunk space and looking factory-ish.

I hate cars

There is another option but you can probably guess what I'm going to say.

Trunk Monkey

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Lol. I might go that route sometime. I wish I could figure out why I'm getting water, but I'm still too scared to do it even if I thought I found the problem. Not worth it now. I purchased some rubber grommets for mounting and this should be fine. It'll raise them about a 1/4". The box should be built well enough to not vibrate like crazy. I've got bigger issues if my box is vibrating that much the way I look at it

Trunk Monkey

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Nothing is mounted on them yet, but I wanted to compare trunk space. Yeah....I think I got some back

W6's @ 18" deep













New 12" IDmax...only 10" deep! That's gotta be rivaling you IB guys I'm tryin lol. Obviously no wires will be visible when it's all done tomorrow. It got WAY to cold today




With a sub that's not so deep like the IDmax, W6, etc...you could basically have the whole trunk but 5-6" up front. I gotta figure out if I can remove the ski-pass thing without removing the rear seat tomorrow. Lets hope so! I see the two screws at the bottom of the ski-pass, but I can't see any at the top...if there is any there

I hate cars

Fairly close...

I think I've lost 8" counting the thickness of the MDF to the magnet but you have all of that space in the middle as well.

Sorry I never got back in PM. You have to remove the rear seat. It's only two screws that I an remember and it unhooks and comes right out. It's up to you but with the seat out is a good time to add some material over the hole so you can leave the skipass open without people seeing your sub.

I've since gotten a batter acoustic material that's actually black with the sun on it but the difference is nice and it's not saying "steal me".






I was looking for a picture without the material in place and the plastic thing out of there but maybe I never took one. With it out and nothing covering it, you can see part of the car's frame in the bottom and it really doesn't look good. Removing it opens up quite a bit more area than I would have thought by looking at it.

Trunk Monkey

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If its just those 2 screws on bottom then I might be able to do it without removing the rear seat. Its not a huge deal to remove the seat, I just despise those bolts where the headrest is lol. Thanks for the info about it looking bad bc of the frame. I'll go pick up some fabric. Not sure where to get acoustically transparent fabric, but i guess I'll look around locally.

Never fails..I finally get time to do this and it's been raining and turned cold for the past 4-5 days

rich20730

I'm glad to hear this. I'm too lazy to mount the amp anywhere else. When I put in my IDQ last week, I noticed that the metal plate on the bottom of the amp was vibrating and making an awful buzzing noise so I took the amp off the box and just had it laying loose in the trunk. Reading this thread gave me the idea to stick an old floor mat (one layer carpet, one layer rubber) in between the amp and the box. Ripped a small square of dynamat from my license plate and slapped it on the bottom of the amp - Problem solved! Thanks guys.

Trunk Monkey

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Got the ski-pass out and everything installed. All works great...










except my Audison.

I hate cars

How do you like the Max?

Trunk Monkey

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Don't know...my Audison won't work

Basically it's got the little "sr1dk" emblem on top of the amp and it lights up..well it's red, meaning it's in protect I'd assume. It will be red for 10-15 seconds, then flash blue for a half second or so and then go back red. I've tried tightening and reinserting the ground and power in my distro block, but nothing happened. That distro block has my processor and P900.4 on it and both of those are working fine. I have NO CLUE wtf is going on.

The sub is wired fine I believe. I wire it just like the diagram below, only that instead of taking the positive out to the amp from one side and the negative out to the amp from the other side (other VC), I just took them both from the same VC. Shouldn't matter right? I don't see how that would change ohm load...so I don't think it's that.

One thing is that when I insert the remote wire "plug" into the amp, it will be blue for a second and then go back to red. Any idea's?? The guy I purchased it from told me he didn't experience this and actually texted me back...so I'd assume he's not BS'n me or he would have just not texted back.

I hate cars

Have you tried unplugging the sub from the amp?

Trunk Monkey

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Not yet. With all my gear on the box, it's hard to work without unhooking damn near everything. Such a PITA. Spare tire area would have been sooo much easier. Everything is hidden, but I didn't plan for this. I guess I could just unplug them on the side of the box...

What would this prove Matt? serious question lol. Bad sub if it stay's blue without the sub plugged up?

jda123

Wire your sub to 8 ohms and see if the issue goes away (or 4).

Trunk Monkey

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About to go out and try to unplug the sub and see what happens.

JDA- The amp is 1ohm stable, why wouldn't it be able to handle a 2ohm load? At 8ohm I'd only be getting 300ish. That's 3x less than 2ohms on the amp. Again..just asking.

It's hard to not sound like a dick when typing...

jda123

If it protects out at 8, then you will know that the guy screwed you.

Did you download the manual to see what the red means?

I hate cars

I didn't even want to say it but considering the guy you bought it from, if the sub has a dead short, it will send the amp into protect. I'm assuming red means protect...

Trunk Monkey

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I unhooked the terminals on the side of the box and it's still red and flashes blue every 15-20 seconds.

Once I pull the remote wire the light goes off, obviously. Just wanted to make that clear also. Everything else in my setup is working fine.

Trunk Monkey

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JDA- the manual is pretty bad. Just shows configurations. I didn't see anything about the LED color, etc. seems like this "blue flash" happened with the LRx amps and it meant a ground issue, but my ground is also using the 360 and PPI..& their fine. Haven't tried to reinsert the ground in the amp, but it's in there just fine.

stevemk07

Fire (red) , water (blue)?

Trunk Monkey

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I can't find the damn Audison protection codes anywhere. Someone else posted about this on DIYMA and said Audison never e-mailed him back.

...what else do I try here...

Thinking about taking it to a shop tomorrow or Wednesday and having them hook up the amp to a different sub and the sub to a different amp. Probably see which one is faulty quickly

jda123

What happened when you disconnected the sub?

You can test for a dead short in the sub with a DMM.

Trunk Monkey

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Disconnected the sub at the terminals on the box & amp still stayed red.

How would I test sub with DMM??

jda123

Put it on whatever setting you have to complete a circuit and see if it will. Mine goes to 1.0 and then also buzzes. Test both voice coils. This is an incomplete test since some will only start to short when they get hot, but you are not even getting that far. When you touch the leads together, it should complete the circuit too.

I hate cars

Bad amp. I don't know what's wrong with people. Saying it didn't do that before but somehow it went bad during shipping is just insulting. Was this a member on DIYMA?

jda123

Do you have the amp chain mode turned off?

Trunk Monkey

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I picked the amp up locally. Guy seemed straight forward & still replied back to me yesterday.

As far as the amp chain, I've tried it on all modes...nothing works. About to go put my DMM on the terminals on the outside of the box and see if it's reading close to 2ohms. I pressed on the woofer when I got it and there's no scratchiness or resistance when pressing down a little. Everything looked okay while inspecting it

jda123

Chain needs to be off. On the LRx, the red protect light comes on in a low ohm situation. The blue light comes on when it starts to get hot - blinking and cutting output by -3db (or something like that) before it goes totally off.

Post some pictures of your setting panel. Maybe we can see something.