Man I hate the sound of our sub........
#1
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Man I hate the sound of our sub........
So here is what I did.
Replaced it with the 8W3v2 from JL Audio. Dynamat the top and bottom of the rear deck. Put an Xtant 3.1 under the driver seat. Wired from the stock head. Then ran twin leads back to the duel inputs on the sub. Dynamat all the doors.
And then cranked e up!! Really sounds MUCH better. No rattles, or sloppy free air sub. Plenty loud. I am running the head amp at -2! Plenty left.....
Now before you say......
It looks COMPLETELY stock! So I would be showing what you have already seen!
Replaced it with the 8W3v2 from JL Audio. Dynamat the top and bottom of the rear deck. Put an Xtant 3.1 under the driver seat. Wired from the stock head. Then ran twin leads back to the duel inputs on the sub. Dynamat all the doors.
And then cranked e up!! Really sounds MUCH better. No rattles, or sloppy free air sub. Plenty loud. I am running the head amp at -2! Plenty left.....
Now before you say......
It looks COMPLETELY stock! So I would be showing what you have already seen!
#3
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Nop, drops right in..... But we did mod. the cover that runs underneath the rear deck. We made a wood "plug" for each end, then and siliconed them in. To make a closed box. To get the tightest bass sound. Man that little 8" really fills the cab!!!Like I said I run it at aroun a -2 from the head unit.........
#4
Advanced
you put another sub on the stock sub place, ive called so many places wondering if it was possible without an amp. i was wondering everything you did. pics of how you did it, and would it work on a 2005 TL?
#6
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by B18DelSolT
you put another sub on the stock sub place, ive called so many places wondering if it was possible without an amp. i was wondering everything you did. pics of how you did it, and would it work on a 2005 TL?
This should work great on the 2005 if all is the same.....
Kennedy, we just cut some particle board the same shape as the openings. And siliconed them in. As to seal it up. Ya man, NO loss of ANY trunk space!! Zero..... And plenty oh plenty sound!! Nice and tight and loud as you want!!
I totally think this is the way to go......
I didn't take any pic's cuz its so simple. And its the cheapest way to get this quality of sound....
#7
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Got it...
Any concern that the pressure from the sub may blow the rear speakers?
That's now one big box back there, shared by all three speakers, and that sub is pushing exponentially harder that those rears.
Also, where'd you tap for signal? post amp? using a LOC? or high level input?
Where'd you splice in? using the existing sub wiring, back to the amp, then new wiring to the sub? or did you cut the wires at the stock sub and splice back in...
So may questions...
Any concern that the pressure from the sub may blow the rear speakers?
That's now one big box back there, shared by all three speakers, and that sub is pushing exponentially harder that those rears.
Also, where'd you tap for signal? post amp? using a LOC? or high level input?
Where'd you splice in? using the existing sub wiring, back to the amp, then new wiring to the sub? or did you cut the wires at the stock sub and splice back in...
So may questions...
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#8
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Well 1st the "plugs" are just on ether side of the sub. So the stock speakers are not in that space. 2nd we taped into the wire from the head unit (high level) back in the trunk. Then ran it up to the amp under the drivers seat. The amp can take up to like 17v. or so. Then ran a pair of speaker wires to the sub again. Because the sub is a duel voice coil. . . . .
#9
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
Well 1st the "plugs" are just on ether side of the sub. So the stock speakers are not in that space. 2nd we taped into the wire from the head unit (high level) back in the trunk. Then ran it up to the amp under the drivers seat. The amp can take up to like 17v. or so. Then ran a pair of speaker wires to the sub again. Because the sub is a duel voice coil. . . . .
Gotcha... I figured you sealed up the whole rear sections.
Got those cut templates still laying aroound?
Also, dual voice coil... shouldn't you be running stereo inputs to the amp to take advatage of the dual VC? Your running mono "combinied" in and stereo out, which = dual mono out.
But I don't know a whole lot about your amp...
#12
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Gotcha... I figured you sealed up the whole rear sections.
Got those cut templates still laying aroound?
Also, dual voice coil... shouldn't you be running stereo inputs to the amp to take advatage of the dual VC? Your running mono "combinied" in and stereo out, which = dual mono out.
But I don't know a whole lot about your amp...
Got those cut templates still laying aroound?
Also, dual voice coil... shouldn't you be running stereo inputs to the amp to take advatage of the dual VC? Your running mono "combinied" in and stereo out, which = dual mono out.
But I don't know a whole lot about your amp...
#13
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ITL
you say it dropped right in...it even mounted to the factory screw holes?
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...i actually love the stock sub, its the best out of all the stock cars i've heard, personally i wouldn't replace it but instead just add a sub in the trunk or so
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#19
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by AzNGR81
...i actually love the stock sub, its the best out of all the stock cars i've heard, personally i wouldn't replace it but instead just add a sub in the trunk or so
OK, our stock sub. was probably good as the rest. But man is it sloppy!! It can't reproduce any fast transitions (to low power). It is a free air sub. That will NEVER sound as tight as a enclosed sub!
#20
Trucki!!
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
This link is not for the 8W3v2, but some "alot" cheaper unit.
Don't cheap out.....
Don't cheap out.....
#22
Trucki!!
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
No, the 8W3v2 is not a "free air" sub. And Yes! Thats why I sealed it up! Now it's nice and tight bass, lots o bass.....
Great follow through
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
Yea, that was my 1st thought. But I don't want to lose ANY trunk space!
OK, our stock sub. was probably good as the rest. But man is it sloppy!! It can't reproduce any fast transitions (to low power). It is a free air sub. That will NEVER sound as tight as a enclosed sub!
OK, our stock sub. was probably good as the rest. But man is it sloppy!! It can't reproduce any fast transitions (to low power). It is a free air sub. That will NEVER sound as tight as a enclosed sub!
...back then, i was going to get subs but after listening to the stock for awhile, i've postponed them...are u using DVD-A? or regular cds?
#24
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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I'm doing this spiritman... and replacing all my speakers with Infinity Kappa Series (2 ohms), except for the tweeters, which I 'll be using the reccomended Inifnity 1101T's.
Only thing missing is the amp. I prefer the JL series. The JL slash series 250/1 is way overkill...
The e1200 looks appropriate, but wondering if it will work for a DVC?
Only thing missing is the amp. I prefer the JL series. The JL slash series 250/1 is way overkill...
The e1200 looks appropriate, but wondering if it will work for a DVC?
#25
Trucki!!
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Kennedy
I'm doing this spiritman... and replacing all my speakers with Infinity Kappa Series (2 ohms), except for the tweeters, which I 'll be using the reccomended Inifnity 1101T's.
Only thing missing is the amp. I prefer the JL series. The JL slash series 250/1 is way overkill...
The e1200 looks appropriate, but wondering if it will work for a DVC?
Only thing missing is the amp. I prefer the JL series. The JL slash series 250/1 is way overkill...
The e1200 looks appropriate, but wondering if it will work for a DVC?
#26
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
OK, 1st things first. I am using both DVD-A and CD's and also XM. You see I am not talking about how loud it is.... but how accurate it is.
Ask anyone in the audio biz. about free air sub's, they will all say the same thing. Muddy. Not tight like the ones in a box. I am not trying to start a fight with you. So ask around and you will see......
Ask anyone in the audio biz. about free air sub's, they will all say the same thing. Muddy. Not tight like the ones in a box. I am not trying to start a fight with you. So ask around and you will see......
#27
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by lembowski
I seriously consider going for the 8w0 and the e1200 amp, before I decieded to go with the Infinity Basslink. Good luck and post some pics when done!
Just wondering.....
#28
Trucki!!
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
I am not trying to start a fight with you. So ask around and you will see......
I've heard that also, but we are not talking about running 500 watts and slamming these subs. Running any sub at rms should result in a tight crisp sound. Its when you use too little or too much power when you run into these muddy sounds.
Glad your happy with your setup
#30
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overkill, even only being an 8" sub?
I've run 10" and 12"s subs in previous cars; however, I do not want to sacrifice the trunk space in the TL. So I'd very well consider doing as much with an 8" as I could.
I've run 10" and 12"s subs in previous cars; however, I do not want to sacrifice the trunk space in the TL. So I'd very well consider doing as much with an 8" as I could.
#31
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by lembowski
?
I've heard that also, but we are not talking about running 500 watts and slamming these subs. Running any sub at rms should result in a tight crisp sound. Its when you use too little or too much power when you run into these muddy sounds.
Glad your happy with your setup
I've heard that also, but we are not talking about running 500 watts and slamming these subs. Running any sub at rms should result in a tight crisp sound. Its when you use too little or too much power when you run into these muddy sounds.
Glad your happy with your setup
I disagree with what your saying. It's 1st not the point of this. 2nd I'm running 300w. But if you don't use a box to tighten it up. You WILL have sloppy bass. Please ask someone in the biz..... I can tell you I did hear my system "Do the tighten-up!" after boxing it in.....
Why do you think the 8W3v2 is overkill? It's made for this kind of application...
#32
Trucki!!
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Originally Posted by Spiritman
Thanks for the
I disagree with what your saying. It's 1st not the point of this. 2nd I'm running 300w. But if you don't use a box to tighten it up. You WILL have sloppy bass. Please ask someone in the biz..... I can tell you I did hear my system "Do the tighten-up!" after boxing it in.....
Why do you think the 8W3v2 is overkill? It's made for this kind of application...
I disagree with what your saying. It's 1st not the point of this. 2nd I'm running 300w. But if you don't use a box to tighten it up. You WILL have sloppy bass. Please ask someone in the biz..... I can tell you I did hear my system "Do the tighten-up!" after boxing it in.....
Why do you think the 8W3v2 is overkill? It's made for this kind of application...
Originally Posted by ITL
overkill, even only being an 8" sub?
I've run 10" and 12"s subs in previous cars; however, I do not want to sacrifice the trunk space in the TL. So I'd very well consider doing as much with an 8" as I could.
I've run 10" and 12"s subs in previous cars; however, I do not want to sacrifice the trunk space in the TL. So I'd very well consider doing as much with an 8" as I could.
Okay, I'm done no more
#35
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by lembowski
Dude I don't want to argue this really. The 8w0 and the new 8w3v2 are so similar in every aspect except price. They are both around 100-125 watts RMS. I thought the 8w0 just on mounting depth alone thinking the 8w3v2 would be too deep. Anyways iyou could always plug those little holes and use the 8w0 the same way your using the 8w3v2.
but i still think someone doing this should benefit from the 8w7! cleanest fucking sub i ever heard! (almost cried j/k) i used to have this setup in my TL using a fiberglass box in the side of the trunk with a 250/1 amp however the excursion capabilities weren't so great for the front passengers given its size but if i had 2 firing into the cabin against the rear seats then that would have been awesome!
Using 1 in the stock sub location if possible in a small sealed enclosure would still sound amazing.
#36
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
WOW. Thats interesting. I asked my audio guy about that sub. He said "If you want a sloppy mess. I'll put it in!" Then He said to use the one I did. The 8W3v2. I haven't heard the 8w7. Maybe I should have. But I don't really need any more bass. The car works well like it is......
#37
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wish I had a pic of the rear shelf from underneath with the trim piece removed...I had it apart when I installed my rearview cam...This seems like such a perfect sub install. I'm all about not sacrificing trunk space.
#38
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
I totally agree. I need my trunk! I tell you what. I have had some people listen to it before and now after. I keep hearing the WOW word from them. It really sounds good to me.
I don't think you need any more power or size than this in our cab. All I hit around 22-25 on the power from the head unit. You can definitely feel the bass at that level.......
And she looks totally stock. So prying eyes that might think of stealing it. Just "walk on by"....
I don't think you need any more power or size than this in our cab. All I hit around 22-25 on the power from the head unit. You can definitely feel the bass at that level.......
And she looks totally stock. So prying eyes that might think of stealing it. Just "walk on by"....
#39
Do you have any more details on how the new "box" is sealed? I understand that you have a wood plug on each side of the box and it is siliconed in place. What about the top, front, back, and bottom? The top and front of the rear deck area both have holes in them to accept the trim pieces. The backpart of the shelf area is only spot welded on so there is a large gap between the top deck and the back piece. The bottom has about a 5" hole below the stock speaker and it has another square cutout beside that (about 3" x 4"). Do you know how the remaining holes were plugged? Thanks.
#40
Man of God.....
Thread Starter
I never asked him that question. But I did have the rear deck Dynamat-ed. Both top and bottom. So I just thought that is how he did it.....