Kenwood BT945U Installed! Working on Speakers and AMPS
#1
Kenwood BT945U Installed! Working on Speakers and AMPS
So I have been working on my audio system for a few weeks now, piecing everything together.
I have finally figured out all the product and installed the h/u
Fronts-JBL C608GTI MKII
Rears- JBL GTO608C
Amps- Kicker 10IX5001 and Kicker 10IX5004
Sub- Kicker 10 inch CVX
Sub Box- http://wickedcas.com/product.php?pro...&cat=12&page=1
Source- Kenwood BT945U
I was on a budget and very limited on time for working on my car so i needed components that sound good and are not that expensive, that i am able to tune to sound decent for now. Later on down the road i plan on getting the JBL MS-8.
H/U installed! will be working on minor gaps later. (shitty pic)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss84/jj_cat24/photo1-3.jpg)
Front speakers are installed, i will take pics today. Rear speakers and 4 channel amp will be put in today.
The fron speakers were pretty easy, just had to cut the door panel to make the mid fit in the door. For the tweeters i looked at a few options, but ended up actually flush mounting them into the factory tweeter grille.
It actually turned out pretty nice(pics later)
I used dynamat to fill in around the mids in the door. One thing i am seriously considering is going through and running all new heavy gauge speaker wire. Any opinions?
For the rear speakers, i am still debating on where to mount the tweeter, i know its not typical to run components in the rear, but i want to give it a shot and see how it sounds. any ideas on a rear tweeter mounting location?
The amps will be mounted on an amp rack im going to construct and be placed sort of on the back of the seat.
I am open to any ideas on mounting and customization!
PICS ON THE WAY
I have finally figured out all the product and installed the h/u
Fronts-JBL C608GTI MKII
Rears- JBL GTO608C
Amps- Kicker 10IX5001 and Kicker 10IX5004
Sub- Kicker 10 inch CVX
Sub Box- http://wickedcas.com/product.php?pro...&cat=12&page=1
Source- Kenwood BT945U
I was on a budget and very limited on time for working on my car so i needed components that sound good and are not that expensive, that i am able to tune to sound decent for now. Later on down the road i plan on getting the JBL MS-8.
H/U installed! will be working on minor gaps later. (shitty pic)
![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss84/jj_cat24/photo1-3.jpg)
Front speakers are installed, i will take pics today. Rear speakers and 4 channel amp will be put in today.
The fron speakers were pretty easy, just had to cut the door panel to make the mid fit in the door. For the tweeters i looked at a few options, but ended up actually flush mounting them into the factory tweeter grille.
It actually turned out pretty nice(pics later)
I used dynamat to fill in around the mids in the door. One thing i am seriously considering is going through and running all new heavy gauge speaker wire. Any opinions?
For the rear speakers, i am still debating on where to mount the tweeter, i know its not typical to run components in the rear, but i want to give it a shot and see how it sounds. any ideas on a rear tweeter mounting location?
The amps will be mounted on an amp rack im going to construct and be placed sort of on the back of the seat.
I am open to any ideas on mounting and customization!
PICS ON THE WAY
#2
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Are you going to use the BT in the head unit and disable the HFL in the car?
Some 12 or 14 gauge might be good for the components.
I would mount the tweets where the factory ones are. Cut the plastic cover and flush mount them.
I don't care for too much rear fill over 3K hz, but everybody is different. If you haven't installed them yet, then you might try the stockies for a while to see if you are happy enough - they seem to fill the rear OK if you gain match them to the front. IMO, the center is more important to upgrade than the rear, but everybody is different.
I would not block the rear seat too much since this is one of the few good places for sound to get into the cabin from the sub. Use the sides if you can.
Good luck.
Some 12 or 14 gauge might be good for the components.
I would mount the tweets where the factory ones are. Cut the plastic cover and flush mount them.
I don't care for too much rear fill over 3K hz, but everybody is different. If you haven't installed them yet, then you might try the stockies for a while to see if you are happy enough - they seem to fill the rear OK if you gain match them to the front. IMO, the center is more important to upgrade than the rear, but everybody is different.
I would not block the rear seat too much since this is one of the few good places for sound to get into the cabin from the sub. Use the sides if you can.
Good luck.
#4
Are you going to use the BT in the head unit and disable the HFL in the car?
Some 12 or 14 gauge might be good for the components.
I would mount the tweets where the factory ones are. Cut the plastic cover and flush mount them.
I don't care for too much rear fill over 3K hz, but everybody is different. If you haven't installed them yet, then you might try the stockies for a while to see if you are happy enough - they seem to fill the rear OK if you gain match them to the front. IMO, the center is more important to upgrade than the rear, but everybody is different.
I would not block the rear seat too much since this is one of the few good places for sound to get into the cabin from the sub. Use the sides if you can.
Good luck.
Some 12 or 14 gauge might be good for the components.
I would mount the tweets where the factory ones are. Cut the plastic cover and flush mount them.
I don't care for too much rear fill over 3K hz, but everybody is different. If you haven't installed them yet, then you might try the stockies for a while to see if you are happy enough - they seem to fill the rear OK if you gain match them to the front. IMO, the center is more important to upgrade than the rear, but everybody is different.
I would not block the rear seat too much since this is one of the few good places for sound to get into the cabin from the sub. Use the sides if you can.
Good luck.
Thanks for the advice
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#5
Which sub would you suggest? The thing is i already have the cvx and am limited on cash so i think it will do for now. right now the JBLs are ran in stereo, i was looking into bridging them but im pretty sure the min impedence bridged on that amp is 4ohms, any ideas would be great to get more power to these speakers (besides buying another amp)
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#8
Dogmatic Dinosaur
It just occurred to me that you might have thought that eggy was suggesting running the speakers in series, when he meant to bridge the channels on your amp for twice the power.
#9
To eggy- the box i ordered is not from the company mentioned above(just posted link for general idea). The company i ordered from actually builds the box to the specs of the sub. I received an email yesterday from the company asking what sub i am using so the can build it properly. Im hoping for the best. Thanks
The amp pushes 75 watts by 4 at 4ohms. 125 watts by 4 at 2 ohms. the speakers are 4ohms. bridged power is 250 watts by two but only capable of running at 4 ohms no lower. so i may be able run both fronts into one channel on channel "a" of the amp to get 125 watts to the fronts. I dont know if that would effect any sound quality(imaging, distortion, efficiency.) Its been a long day of working on the car, so if some of this doesnt make sense, its probably because it doesn't. I will be looking into it more tomorrow... but for now, some rest.
The amp pushes 75 watts by 4 at 4ohms. 125 watts by 4 at 2 ohms. the speakers are 4ohms. bridged power is 250 watts by two but only capable of running at 4 ohms no lower. so i may be able run both fronts into one channel on channel "a" of the amp to get 125 watts to the fronts. I dont know if that would effect any sound quality(imaging, distortion, efficiency.) Its been a long day of working on the car, so if some of this doesnt make sense, its probably because it doesn't. I will be looking into it more tomorrow... but for now, some rest.
#10
coming from one channel, correct? not bridged mode. Because bridged mode is only able to handel 4 ohms. if i bridge the speakers they would drop to 2 ohms in parallel.
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