playboyace35

I have a jl cleansweep installed and the hissing sound is very annoying. I'm thinking about swapping it out with a loc.

Are there any differences in sound between the JL CS and a LOC?

I'm sure a few TL members in the past have switch from JL CS to Loc, How do you guys feel about it?

Thanks

RedAggie03

iTrader: (4)

I'm about to go to the store today and buy a LOC to hook up my amp and sub out of my old car. I'd like to know if you think something more advanced is needed. I plan on upgrading my other speakers and amps later so I've been thinking about something like a 3Sixty...

Not thread jacking - just have the same question...

JohnnyB1976

You might just try not using anything - see if the output of the headunit itself will run your amp. I just finished this exact install using a JL Audio 4300/4 channel and a JL Audio 500/1v2 for the sub line. I just ran the head unit out/factory amp ins back to the trunk and ran them to the amp, worked just fine.

Because I don't like the EQ of the factory HU, I ran into an EQS first, then to the JL, but the voltage seemed high enough to run direct without any LOCs whatsoever. Much cleaner too!

IlovemyAcura

DO NOT GO WITH CLEANSWEEP

theres better ones out there

playboyace35

so is loc better than cleansweep?

JohnnyB1976

Have you tried just going direct to the amp? depending on the sensitivity of the amps inputs, it might be able to take it straight from the low level ins of your factory amp. The least amount of devices between your head unit and the amp delivering power to your speakers, the better your sound quality is going to be.

playboyace35

Hm, I haven't tried it yet, but I think your setup only works like that because you have a jl amp. I don't recall why that is tho...

JohnnyB1976

Weird - I didn't choose that amp for that reason either, I must have just gotten lucky. You might be right however, there's LOTS of smarter people on this forum than I and everyone talks about LOC's, so there must be scenarios where they're required.

You could always just get a JL amp, instead of spending on the LOC.

King of Pain

A LOC will take a high level signal (such as a speaker signal) and reduce it to a low level signal (such as a pre-amp signal) that can be used by amps. That's all it does.

In the Acura's case it will take the high level signal AFTER the stock amp and make it a usable signal low level for you new amps

The cleansweep and other signal processors such as the 3sixty will equalize the signal to it to adjust for head unit and cabin acoustic problems. They can take the signal input as either a low level signal or high level. Think of these signal processors as fancy equalizers. Some such as the rockford 3ixty.2 have time alignment functions.

Is one better than another? They are similar devices, hard to compare one to the other. LOCs are generally less expensive that signal processors.

Hope that helps explain things

Tripnbeats

I skipped on the whole 360 thing from rockford n cleansweep from JL and went with locs.....they seemed to work better with the original system and let the clean sounds the stock radio produces get through without "attempted filtration" from some other device.... I also have a 3 input 3 output crossover from clarion that clarifies the music even further, its sick. the hissing sound is most likely coming from the jl unit. Gain is too high somewhere.

Depending on how the lines are pulsed and what they return is how I would go about converting a stock system to something with some extra kick.

playboyace35

okay thank you guys, imma convert

JohnnyB1976

King - what I was saying wasn't what LOCs were necessarily, I know what they are. All I was saying is that bypassing the factory amp completely is also possible in our cars by taking the low level inputs of the factory amp, and run them back and go to the inputs of an amp.

What I didn't realize was that perhaps my situation was unique because I happened to choose JL Audio amps.

But in general, isn't it better to minimize the devices in the signal path? Thus, eliminating the factory amp and use of an LOC theoretically should be a cleaner signal (and less to fail) over just amping the low level output from the HU. That's all I was suggesting...

playboyace35

I would have to get nearly 2 jl 1000/1 amp to run my 15" diamond lol, that is quite pricey.

That's why I am choosing to stick with my cheap amp. (hifonics brutus 1606d)

Thanks for the input though.

(Can anyone verify exactly why JL amps do not require loc and such, or am I just tripping?)

tlperson

I have this same problem. I paid $600 for the cleansweep and install. When I first got it back the volume was really low and the sub was not pushing very hard at all. I ajusted the four channel to amp up the volume and also did the same with the mono block amp and now I get that hissing to.

I wrote down the settings the installer used so I could change it back.

King of Pain

The signal coming from the stock amp is a high level (speaker level) signal. Some amps such as the JL audio and Zapco (I think) can accept a speaker level (high level) input without the need for an LOC. I had a JL Audio e6450 six channel that could do this. Nice amp but underpowered and I burn up a channel.

If your are eliminating the factory amp you do not use an LOC. You use a line driver such as the audiocontrol matrix. A line driver will boast a very weak signal.

http://mobileaudiocontrol.com/produc...49&l1=5249&l2=

A Line output converter will reduce the signal from the stock amp. Such as the LC6 from audiocontrol or the NE-774V from Navone engineering

http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/pr...2&l1=17612&l2=

http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?24&cat=7


Two very different devises that do two very different functions.



My current set-up is:

Stock Head unit going to the Stock Amp. Navone LOCs used after the stock amp going to Alpine PDX Amps. No hiss, no distortion, nothing, nada, zero. Very clean highs and punchy low end without sounding weak. I don't even get hiss from the CarPC Sound that is connected to this set-up.

RedAggie03

iTrader: (4)

Where are your grounds made for the amps? I used the ground for the fuel pump and it sucks. I'm getting engine buzz at real low lvls...At first I liked it because it sounded like I had a deep exhaust, lol...

Tripnbeats

u never use a ground already supplied....always make your own.

RedAggie03

iTrader: (4)

I always had in the past...time to bust out a grinder and self tapping screw...where'd you put yours?

King of Pain

All my ground wires go to a block and the main ground wire (4 gauge) from the block is attached to the bolt on the back of the trunk next to the fuel pump, left side I beleive. I seems to do the trick.

Tripnbeats

you NEVER ground anything near any pumps.... make new holes... make your own ground. the system is always going to be safer that way and greatly minimizes the risk of shorting the cars electrical if anything ever happens.