phlames

What amp is good for the image dynamics ctx65cs components??

Stillmatic29

I'm running roughly 100 rms per side to mine via JL HD900/5. sounds great

Opel

An amp that can put out 100w-150wrms @ 4ohm per channel

phlames

Im lookin at an alpine mrp f300......dont kno if its good enough....

niebur3

How much are you looking to spend?

I hate cars

I've run them off of a 75w/ch amp up to roughly 200w. 75w gets plenty loud. Higher than that, the tweeter starts to get harsh. Some say it's the supplied crossover, I never tried them active so I don't know if that's true for sure.

rich20730

Same here. I've run them off of 75 watts per channel and it was plenty. I'm currently running them active with 200 watts per channel to the mids and 75 watts per channel to the tweets and they handle it just fine. I would suggest getting an amp with more power that way if you decide to upgrade your comps in the future you won't have to buy a new amp.

phlames

Im lookin to spend bout $200.....the alpine is 149.99...

phlames

well the alpine is 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)....

rich20730

150 watts per channel is plenty for the CTX's. It just depends what you plan to do in the future. If you decide you want to run your components active, you'll likely need another amp since 50 watts per channel is not going to be very much power.

How about the PPI BK520.4 for $200 :http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10580-bk...amplifier.aspx

95x4 @4ohms
130x4 @2ohms
260x2 Bridged @ 4ohms

Plus, it has bandpass crossovers and remote gain control

phlames

Im goin to get the ppi...how did u run the wires for the speaker?? Before the factory amp or after the factory amp?? I ran my subs thru the factory sub wire using audio control lc2i...sounds niiice too!!!

Mug

I'll be running them with 50 watts once my spacers come in. I'll post my results here if I remember!

rich20730

I started out taking the post-amp signal with the LC6i and then later switched to the preamp signal with a line driver and a processor.

phlames

Ok...do u have pics??

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

There's another member that's looking to do the LC6i....does that unit act as a good line driver? It looks like it's meant to be an LOC, but has a line-driver built in and can go up to 9.5v.

rich20730

Pics of the LC6i? Pics of my current setup? I only have one picture of the LC6i while it was installed. I had it under the passenger seat. If I was doing the install over I'd put it under the driver's seat since there is much more room.





It's just an LOC, no line driver. That's the second time I've heard that. Weird I just looked at the website to see if they've updated it or anything and I see that they have a check mark for line driver in the product comparison table, but if you actually go to the product page and/or manual you will see that it says nothing about it being a line driver.

Unless they've updated it I'm 99% sure it's not a line driver. I even accidentally hooked it up to the black harness with the preamp signals when I first bought it and I got no sound.

Maybe I just have a different idea of what a line driver is. I wouldn't be surprised if it outputs up to a 9.5volt signal when you adjust the outpul level, but you are still stuck taking the already amplified post stock-amp signal in the first place.

rich20730

Btw. The PPI is only $150 at sonic electronix. I only
posted the woofers etc link because sonic's site was down at the time. You could even get the BK800.4 for $179 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...r-BK800.4.html

phlames

I have to get a line driver too??

rich20730

^^^^ If you are taking the post stock amp signal you don't need one. If you want to bypass the stock amp a line driver can be helpful, but it's not necessary many cases. A lot of it depends on what your goals and preferences are.

phlames

ok thanx....i want a crisp & clean litsening thats all...

Opel

Rich,
My understanding is that the RF 360.2 accepts low and high level inputs (20vrms max), and puts out 5vrms w/ +/- 10db gain. Why did you use the LOC? I don't think the stock amp puts out anywhere near 20v to drive the stock speakers.

Just curious...unless I'm wrong about the stock amp voltage output.
Also, I don't think a line driver is necessary with the RF 360 either.


A line driver will amplify the pre amp voltage and feed your aftermarket amp with 2-4vrms. This will help you keep amp gains at a minimum.

I found out the hard way. First I went post amp since my aftermarket amp accepted speaker level inputs... didn't like it...amplifying an already amplified and distorted signal from stock amp.

Then went pre amp, since my AM amp accepts low inputs (as low as .2v) ...
Didn't like it... Had to try and compensate for low input by setting gains high.

Then finally, I got a AC Matrix plus....now the AF amp gets a nice clean 4vrms input, and gains are all the way at minimum. It is loud and clear.

rich20730

I don't have a 3Sixty.2. Trunk Monkey has one I think. You might be confusing me with him. My progression has actually been pretty similar to yours:

In my first setup I was taking the post stock-amp signal and using a line-out converter (LC6i) into the Rockford Punch PBR 300x4 and Sony sub amp. It sounded good, but I had a slight hiss due to the noise floor on the stock amp.

Later, I decided to buy a processor (Alpine PXE-H660) and take the preamp signal. Due to the low output voltage from the stock headunit a had to turn up the gain on the PXE almost all the way in order to get a decent volume level. This introduced some engine noise into my system so I bought the Rockford Balanced Line Driver which fixed the problem.

My current setup is this:

Stock Headunit > Rockford BLD > Alpine PXE > Punch PBR 300x4, Sony 200x2, Alpine 1000x1 > ID CTX65 comps, Polk DB 651 rears, Idmax 12 IB

It sounds terrific

eggyhustles

900w minimum per side

Opel

I'm sorry, I completely missed it in the pics...I didn't look at it closely...your amp looked like the RF 360.2 lol

The RF BLD as I understand is only a 2 channel...Are you only using 2 channels for your entire set up? Some member here (forget the name) claims that the front signal from front channels is better for the sub than the actually sub channel. I don't doubt him...Just pointing it out....I might even try it.
For now, I'm using the AC Matrix +, driving all channels

While I can't claim that Ive had too much experience with this whole thing...I can only recommend pre amp to anyone, just like many others have recommended. Pre amp with a line driver instead of post amp + loc . A lot ff amps accept very low pre amp inputs...but it's not the same as when you feed your amp with 4vrms.

I hear good things about the ID CTXs .....I might give Jerry a call in the near future....I just gotta catch my breath for a bit

phlames

Should i try hookin up my lc2i pre amp for better sound quality? Or keep it how i have it wired straight to factory sub wires??

Opel

LC2 cannot go pre amp....that is supposed to reduce signal....pre amp signal is already 1v at most... LOCs are used to drive down the signal. Line drivers are used to drive it up. Think of them as loc-Step down transformer, line driver-step up transformer.

The LOC should be installed in between the stock amp=speaker output (wires that go to speakers), and the aftermarket amp . Line driver is installed in between head unit output (wires before going into the stock amp) and aftermarket amp.

rich20730

It will only work post-amp.

I'm using the Aux input on the PXE which just requires a full-range, stereo signal in order to output to all 7 channels.

I haven't heard anything about the preamp front signals being better. I think that may be true for the post-amp signals, but I was under the impression that all of the preamp signals are full range and flat, and I suppose the sub channel would be mono.

If I wasn't using a processor, I would have gone with the Matrix using all channels like you are doing so I could maintain use of the sub level, fader, and center controls through the headunit.

I agree that taking the preamp is optimal in this car, but I can't say that I thought that post amp was all that bad, other than the slight hiss caused by the stock amp.

I really like the CTX's, but I haven't heard any of the high-end components (Esotars, utopias etc) that people rave about so I'm tempted to upgrade, mostly out of pure curiosity to see if I'm really missing out on anything.

phlames

Ok im going to use the front speakers for the mids n hi amp...

Seatown1two

I'm wondering if there are a set comparable to the ctx65 that would not require me to cut metal from the door...

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Possibly...

I hate cars

I went from the CTXs to Dynaudio Esotec and then to Esotar. I really liked the IDs but there's more of a difference than you could ever imagine between them and Dyns. I suggest you never try them because you will be hooked. I've never heard anything more life-like.

rich20730

Haha! Thanks for the warning. If I do decide to try out the Dyns at least now I know to skip over the the Esotecs and go straight for the Esotars. That way I can tell my wife I saved her $900

niebur3

Most speakers shouldn't require you to cut the door. Most will need a single trim ring...some a double.

I will get them ready to ship !

rich20730

Jerry, you'll be the first person I call!

phlames

Awww man i gotta get a speaker rims for id ctx65cs for it to fit??

Mug

They're huge. My rings come in today. Unfortunately, I don't know when I'll be able to work on my car again.

phlames

Where u get yours from?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

If you think those are huge, pick up some Exodus Anarchy 6.5's.

Anarchy's next to H-audios that are likely quite a bit larger than the CTX's..

phlames

Bout 100

I hate cars

Those are deep at 3.66". The Scan Illuminator is 3.8" deep. I have no idea how people fit those in a door. Here's the Scan on the left, the ATs in the middle, and my Dyn Esotar 650 on the right. The Dyn is a true 6.5" while the others are 7" speakers.