jda123

Did you do your big 3?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

My initial ground wires were too short so I went to a shop to get a little bit of 4gauge and they just installed it for me. I didn't check to see where or how they did it but I will definitely check when I get home or this weekend. Thanks for the info


No on the big 3. I'm still not quite sure which wires need to be upgraded, etc. Plus I didn't have time before I left to do it

I hate cars

They will take 600w of clean power. As far as excursion, 16.5mm each way is xmax but they can be pushed to 25mm each way before any damage is done. 2" of excursion looks like a hell of a lot.

I do have to agree with Eggy, you might optimize the W6s before buying more subs. You could always cut the baffles for two 12s and if you don't like them, throw the SBP15s in there. The W6s sound very good IB. The only thing I would worry about is output, depending on how loud you like the really low bass. They will give you all the low end you could ever want, much more than the sealed but you have to watch excursion.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Took the LOC out but only one sub is working. Wtf do I do?


EDIT: I got it..and I will not say how I did it lol. Freakin speaker wire came out when I was messing with the amp. Now..to test the no LOC subs!!

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Well I've had a little bit of time with the LOC removed and I can say that the low end does have more punch, digs lower, and has the ability to get louder. My SUB control on the headunit is at 0 or middle and I had to lower the gains from about half to a little under a 1/4 of the way! Works for me!! Thanks JDA

Might try to find the problem with the tweeter noise on start-up today but it's SOO hot. 110 yesterday and very humid

jda123

You should not be able to hurt those W6 with only 1000W. Just make sure that it is not clipping or a dirty signal.

However, this should be well beyond what you can listen to for long without hurting your ears.

Start with the grounds. I used a stock ground location (with all of the gold rings, but I had to make it MUCH larger to accept some zero). Sand it down to shiny metal and attach it. Do your big 3 too... about 8 feet in 4 gauge and 6 ring connectors will get this done.

eggyhustles

You haven't got them in the right box. Why ditch them?

Argent Audio makes good stuff for decent prices. That's where i sent tranceaddict to get the box for his xcon 12

Trunk Monkey

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Question:

I've got the PPI art a600.2 hooked up and realized it doesn't have a x-over. I believe you have to run an external crossover or processor with it. I was freaking out b/c I thought I might have been running my RK6's rull range since I think I took the signal "pre-amp" and hasn't run through the factory amp to get the 80hz+ crossover or whatever it's at in the factory amp. BUT....since I'm using the passive x-over's, would that make it ok?? I had the x-over set at 80hz on my PDX. I've played a few rap songs that I know are in the 30-40hz range and I think I feel the mid's hitting but it could just be a different frequency in the song at the same time. Is this okay?? I just want to make sure I'm not running them full range

I hate cars

Passives don't include a high pass so you're running a full range signal to them... My Infinity amp has no crossover either, I had to buy a crossover for it. You can have it if you want, I wasn't going to post it up for sale bacause it's only worth about $20.

FWIW, mine have always sounded cleaner and clearer the higher I set the high pass. That's one reason it's nice having subs that will play to 80hz and sound good.

jda123

Those only respond from 65-20K. Unless the specs are wrong, there is not much of a chance that you are getting 30-40 to them. They might sound better, however, if you can keep them above 80 or 100.

I hate cars

I ran the IDs full range sometimes and they hit lots of excursion when run full range even though freq response was like 60hz+. They didn't make any appreciable output down low but it muddied up the sound and gave some crazy excursion.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's what I figured. The tweeters get the x-over point but the mids play from the x-over point down to whatever it's given. Thank god I didn't play it loud or anything while I've had this in. I found the grounds that the shop did and they have both amps grounded to the same spot and its where something else is ground...right there near the ski pass under the carpet. I filed and sanded down the spot to bare metal and hooked it back up. Now I just need to re-try the PDX, etc w/o the ground loop isolater and see what happens. If it still happens...it's gotta be the RCA's.

How big of a ported box can fit in our trunks?? My ported box I built is too small for 2 12's so I'm going to sell it to hopefully fund another one or a sealed box....if I don't sell it all and go IB. I still don't think that 3 12's would fit IB but not sure. It'd just be more simple to run 2 15's also. Anyways, thanks for the help guys!! Hopefully I can get this amp noise issue worked out. One amp should be up for sale soon..if anyone is looking

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I've got a few more questions for you all!


1. I found a buyer and someone willing to trade for my Alpine PDX 4.100. The guy with the trade wants to trade an MB Quart Q4.150 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...rt-Q4.150.html). This amp looks nice, powerful and looks like it could run active am I right?? If it's not that good of an amp, then I can sell it most likely tomorrow for $175.


2. HUUGE thanks for JDA for letting me try out the ID CXS62's and Audison! They came in today and are sitting at home...I want to be off work to go play!!


3. I've been looking for boxes for the 12w6's and I've ran across a few. I know a few are saying go ported but at $200+ I just can't afford it right now. There's a box on craigslists that a guy has for 2 12" Type-R's (the new ones) and says it was custom built for those and has specs:

Looked like this one: http://caraudiofactory.com/dual-tran...ted-p-126.html

12" dual sub box
Gross airspace: 1.85 cu. ft. per sub
Net airspace: 1.5 cu. ft. per sub
Port: 12" X 1 1/4" X 22"
Port volume: .29 cu.ft.
Tuning: F3= 27Hz, Ripple= 4.2dB, FB= 33Hz
3/4" Industrial MDF
Black industrial grade carpet
BUILT TO ALPINE SPECIFICATIONS for 2 12" Alpine Type R 12" subwoofers
38" W x 13.5" H x 15.75" D

Any good?? He said $75 and it's mine. I just don't want to get caught with either pre-fab or a box tuned to like 35 or 40hz or something.


-- For $70 to my door though, I thought about just doing this one which will give me 1.5ish per w6 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-2.7-Gray.html)


4. My sub amp and component amp are both grounded to a factory ground spot right near the ski-pass. It's a small gold nut/bolt but I was wondering if that could be the reason for noise?? Do i need to have a separate spot for each amp....or can both amps be together but just not on a factory ground?

I unplugged the RCA's from the amp and I still got the start-up noise and hiss from the components so I don't think its the RCA's. Could it be this bad grounding spot or do I need to run the remote wire to the comp. amp first before the sub amp??

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

jda123

The amps can be ground to the same spot. Seriously... do your big 3.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I am. Just taking out all the variables.

So should I pick up that q4.150? Looks nice and I'll be able to run active. BNIB too

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Unhooking speaker wires from amp works to remove noise...

geekybiker

Q is top of the line MBQ. Mentions of the mbq amps on diyma are generally positive though they aren't what they were before they got bought out. I've seen that amp for $160-170ish new before.

That help?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Ok...I removed my amp, put electrical tape around all wires and RCA's. Sent it out today and the MB Q4.150 will be here Monday.

But..

I can still hear noise/static coming through my tweeters with nothing hooked up! Wtf

eggyhustles

That q is a decent amp

I would be looking at soundstream, though.

Reference, rubicon, and stealth are my favorite lines for budget amps.

Dude, stop with the prefabs already, lol. Save up for a box from argent.

TranceAddict

^ I placed an order almost a month ago from argent . He said it'll be a 3 week wait . Has a list so if you can wait it'll probably be worth it for the price . But im sure others could be faster t/a since he's backed up

eggyhustles

From what i know, it's him and someone else that does the boxes and he has dozens of orders.

Hard to crank out so many boxes when it's a 2 man team. They do top notch work at affordable prices, though.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Hell I'd rather just build one or have one built for me for another $30-40 whenever I want. That small of a price difference is kinda null when it takes a month to get. Maybe he's related to the guys over at AE!

And it's kinda hard to really mess up a pre-fab sealed box. I already assumed I would re-go over all the edges to seal them effectively..just in case. For $70 to my door..hard to beat. Who knows though. Still deciding on what I'd like to do. Building a PC at the moment so this has taken a backseat. Those Argent boxes do look nice though

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

At this juncture..I'm trying to figure out why the hell these tweeters are making static when they aren't even hooked up to an amp..

TranceAddict

^amen I hear ya ...but just get the right measurements and give it a shot ! If you dont want to wait

jda123

How do you have them wired up? Do you mean that they are not wired to anything, or that they are wired to an amp without any input signal?

Which amp are you using?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

1. Removing either the positive or negative wire from the tweet removes the noise
2. Noise is there with car in anything but turned off

This is with NO AMP CONNECTED

so it's gotta be the x-over, twetter, or speaker wire interference..am I right?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

JDA- there is no amp on them in my car at the moment

Even when they were connected to an amp, they would still make static noise with the radio unit turned completely off (only nav. on)



The noise can be crackling to static to what sounds like the old radio noise you would get when changing stations. I'll see if I can find a good one on YouTube or something. I wouldn't think the speaker wire I bought would be bad or pick up a ton of interference.


Where do you guys run the SPEAKER WIRE for the drivers side mid/tweet? It seems most of us run it down the passenger side base molding..but then where? Mine is run behind the whole nav/radio/AC center unit, back near the firewall. Could that be a problem?? Near other stuff??

jda123

You have the tweets on new wire that you ran for your install?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah. The tweeters came with like 1' of wire like they all do...but all the wiring is brand spanking new 14 or 16ga. (I think I used 14?). From rear amp (or where amp would be) to x-over..to mids...to tweeters is all new wire. Nothing stock was used.

jda123

Dang. I guess eliminate the crossover and see if that helps.

You have the massives in still? Try one of the IDs and see if it does it.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, removing the x-over was next on my list. Like an idiot I didn't run wires to the trunk for active so I'm buying all new speaker wire today at Monoprice so I can run active if I want. If not, I'll just hook up the x-overs in the trunk somewhere. Stupid on my part

I tried one of the CXS tweeters already, though it was when the amp was hooked up, but it still did it. So I'm assuming its not the tweeter(s).

Is 14ga. wire overkill?? Should I just buy 16? Also, is it bad to wire 2 strands of speaker wire together? So say I've got 14 coming from my mids and they go to the x-over in the kick-panel...can I just add new wire onto that existing wire or do i HAVE to run all new wire?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Though this was cool. Sub box modeling for 1.5-1.6 sealed and ported for 2 12w6's

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...0-post209.html

eggyhustles

And you do...

You should keep the massives and go active with them. With processing you can tame them to your liking. There are always anomalies you should eq down/out anyway. No set is ever perfect out the box.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I'll definitely try the RK6's active, no doubt. First, I need to run all new wiring to the trunk for active though. I know you can control a lot by going active but the RK6 tweeter is going to need some work to overcome the loudness. I've never really heard what "good" or acceptable midbass sounds like or should sound like so I'm kinda screwed there. There are a few guys over at DIYMA that swear by the CK6 mid, though they say they hated the RK6 mid as it was muddy and more for just sheer SPL-type setups.

Wish I could figure out this damn noise...

jda123

Let us know if the new wires stop the noise. If not, then install a new RCA while you have the car apart - don't spend a fortune, but even a mid-grade stinger should be silent on a balanced signal.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering a few things. I've already run 14ga. wiring from my mids through my doors and into the kick panel to the passive x-over. Same with tweeter. From dash down to the passive x-over. Is it okay if I just run new wire from the trunk all the way to the kick panel and connect it with the wire that's already ran for the mids/tweets? It won't be hard to do the tweeters but the mids are a pain in the ass to run through the door. Just crimp them together so I don't have to run a whole, solid run of new speaker wire.


Also, I used 14ga. wire (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...rodsPerPage=60). Would I be okay to use 16ga. now since I'll have 4 wires and RCA's running down the passenger side for active haha. It's already tight in there! I figure it might not be smart to run 16ga. and then connect it with 14ga. and have about 4-5ft of 14ga. to the mids (and tweets if its ok to leave them like this) but who knows. Thanks man

I hate cars

16ga is more than adequate. Heck, I even have it running my subs right now.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks IHC and JDA. I'll order up some 16ga. and I need to check to see what my subs have as far as their gauge. Might not be adequate now that I think about it.

Now onto....miniDSP or Fosgate BLD to likely fix my noise issues...

BIG 3 coming soon JDA! haha. Glad you said that as I completely forgot about doing it. I'm sure that will raise my voltage levels a ton

jda123

Use that Audison amp that I sent you while you are figuring all of that stuff out and waiting for it to come in. It is supposed to be able to take a balanced diff input through the low level (RCA).