sugarman

All,

I put a 8w3v2-D4 in to replace the stock sub.
I have it wired in parallel to get the 2 ohm load for the stock amp.
It's seems quieter than the stock sub. Anyone else have this same result? I imagine it needs an amp for that big magnet.

Thanks,
Alan

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

It's a Dual Voice Coil sub... It really NEEDS a "box" to be effective... it doesn't like free air. With stock power, it's gonna be very weak.
You really need an amp... nothing big though... to make the sub work (still recognizing with an amp, running a DVC sub in free air is very ineffecient)...

It's just about right for me now, still chasing the rattles out of the rear deck though. Lots of "foam under the edge" trick.

I'm running a JL e1200 hidden in the spare tire well.

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

You're basically running that sub in an infinite baffle configuration... the stock amp is only throwing about 40W at maximum output... clearly that sub needs some power to run smooth in that configuration... Do like Kennedy said and give it some (safe) juice...

sugarman

Alright thanks for the help and advice guys. I got the power wire and ground wire put in for the amp last night and will be running the inputs for the amp tonight.

I got an MTX amp that is rated at 140watts RMS for it.

I mounted the amp right under the driver's seat. There is a grounding point right there, very handy.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

How does it sound now? Was the 140 watts enough for it?

sugarman

It sounds decent as long as i don't turn it up too loud. As other people have said about this speaker...It is intended for a sealed enclosure. Since it is not in one, the cone travels farther than it should at times and creates some distortion. Eventually, when I feel like spending the money, I am just going to put the 8w3v2 in a box or tube. I may even take it out and upgrade to one corner mounted 12".

I personally don't think it is worth putting this speaker in place of the stock sub. Although, in my old car I had two 10" Infinity's with lots of power, so I may be spoiled.

In any case, I had fun tearing about the car, now have an amp installed and have more options than before.

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

You shoudl check your gain level and crossover freqs... make sure you're not over driving the woofer.

That's a good point...
If you're expecting big boom from this mod, it's not. As of others have said, it's about 3X the bass of the stock speaker with a nice 150W amp. That may seem like a lot, but considering how the stock sub is... 3 x a small number...

The free air nature results in most of the energy is lost to SPL as opposed to sound. it's more than enough boom for my liking, but in a box this littel guy would boom. I kinda like the fact it's not so boomy...

If you're coming from a car with a LOT of boom, this may not be for you. If you want a bit more base to complement the existing speakers, this is perfect.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

You may also want to note that if your placing the sub in a large enclosure as the trunk, IB, that everything should still be sealed up and not have any leaks. This can be a large cause for the reason why you are not getting the expected results. The front waves should not meet the rear waves or else they will just cancel each other out and reduce the spl as well.

There are a lot of small holes, and gaps in the rear deck. Try sealing all of those up, and then go for anything else obvious in the trunk down to the smallest holes. I'm also waiting for my sub to arrive, and I'll keep you guys updated once I install it. Btw, can anyone post up, or PM me instructions on how to remove the rear deck?

Thanks!

sugarman

I took out the seats and rear deck 3 times now...it's pretty easy. There are few really good threads that explain on how to get it out. It takes me about 15 mins to get it all out after doing it a few times.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I know what you mean. I hope it's as easy as you say it is. I was uncertain about the door when I first started, but now I'm able to take the door panels out in 2 minutes!