dcolucci7

Before you judge, i know i do go a bit overboard with things. so i dont care what you think of my shit load of dynamat.

Installed:
Front JL audio C2-650 components
Rear JL audio c3-650X Coax
Subs 2 JL 10w6v3
Amps JL JX1000/1d JL JX360/4d
Cap Ion 20 Fared
Converter Audio Control Lc7i
cables: Monster Rca, and all true gauge name brand stuff.
Metric Shit Ton of DynaMat xtreme

It took me a few weeks to get all of the stuff together, but all of the components have reasoning to them.

I started by stripping the panels and figuring out exactly how much of a pain in my ass it was going to be.

Tweets: I first pulled these little bastards out to reveal the weird wiring. Colors of the driver side were a bit off and did not match directly to the factory amp outputs. I will elaborate on this later. What i did was remove the stock sweet and drill out room for the JL stuff.

Front door: I had to cut out a lot before i was able to fit the JL 6.5s. The Stock door speakers are 6.25 and are spaced out so the actual opening is small. I didnt measure how close the window comes to the paneling, but its pretty close. I basically tore apart the JL screens and turned them into the new spacers. Drilled new holes and the rest is history.

Rear deck. The holes were pretty close, but of course they needed to be opened up. I am fortunate to have access to a great shop so a right angle pneumatic barrel sander worked wonders. For these speakers, i taped the stock wiring to metal and ran my own wiring down through a channel on the driver side. I of course removed the stock sub.

Subs: I chose 10s because i love all types of music. I tend to listen more to rock and country and stuff that has tight punchy bass. So tens it was. I love JL and I wanted to go BOOM. The new JL 10w6 was perfect. I like the w7s but it was too much for me. I still wanted a trunk and didnt want to have that much power to one amp and the price tag that follows.

Enclosure: I went to countless audio shops to try and get a glass enclosure. Either they charge out the ass or they say it cant be done and wont sound good with the space i was allowing. The subs require only 0.55 airspace. YES. ONLY THAT!!! and i was going to be damned if i was gonna let them change the JL specs to what they feel is right. JL was very specific on this sub. So after lots of frustration, i figured out that people just simply dont want to build glass boxes. I then found some boxed on ebay. Made specifically for my subs. 1" baffle and a bracket inside to not only center the speaker but add support. Everything was CNC cut and what not. They had a dual sub enclosure, but i like symmetry so i decided to get two and mount amps in between.

Dynamat: I dynamat almost everything. I found a deal on ebay that had 72 square feet for 280 shipped with a roller. I unlike most idiots add dynamat for audio quality enhancement, not just for rattles. But i do hate rattles. So, i pull most dynamat inside door panels on the actually outside panels. I doubled up behind the front door woofers as well. There are some factory sound deadening pieces that i kept but dynamat under them and then matted them to the matting to prevent those from moving. It was just plastic and foam. I was sure to mat anything that could move. I then matted the trunk area of course to help keep the bass in. I matted through the stock sub area to create a port from trunk to cab and cut the carpet lining out as well. I matted all opening of the rear deck to prevent interference with the rear speakers.

Power: As far as the main power wire. I got a new battery block that mounts to my yellow top optima. and ran that under the car in the driver frame channel and back up through the wheel well into the trunk. This prevents inside cab fires. Noise issues from being too close to other wires and less shit inside the car. This was a 2 gauge wire. I ran this to a digital 20 fared cap that has a splitter inside that i ran 4 gauge wire to the amps. My remote wire comes from the audio control box that detects sounds and gives off remote power to prevent boosting a blank signal.

Amp Signals: The audio control box says to ONLY get your signal after the factory amp, so thats what i did. I tapped into all but the center since i was not adding one.

Speaker wiring: The rears were easy. the fronts however had me losing my mind. I tried chasing down the front tweeter wires for a while. I finally ended up ohm-ing out. The tweeter was somehow ohming the the door speakers with the amp disconnected. I found somewhere that someone mentioned the tweeters are ran from the head unit. There was no way in hell i was tearing that apart so i ran my own wires down. The passenger door wiring comes out in a neat little harness just inside the cab. I tapped into that. The driver side door wiring was impossible to track with all that stuff in the way so i ran my own wires into the door. Complete pain in the ass!

Crossovers were places under the seats in the middle. I wish i would have put them far forward though as they could be kicked from back seat.

Mounting: I took 1" aluminum angle iron and mounted all the components to the boxes. I them made brackets that mount the whole setup to the frame of the car to prevent theft and movement. Worked like a charm. I just tapped into the cross member behind the seats.

Only issue i ran into was the loud bass feedback when all doors are shut. So i cut that stupid mic in the back seat for noise cancelling.

I suggest getting a label maker like i did for 20 bucks on ebay to keep it clean and eliminate questioning.

Thanks for listening to my rambling, heres some pics, feel free to question, and give feedback. Thanks guys. PS. This setup SCREAMS!!! I find myself turning it down with my ears ringing.

Before

trying to decide where to put everything
[IMG][/IMG]
drilling out tweeters. The unibit wasnt big enough, but the plastic chips away easily
[IMG][/IMG]
cut out rear deck. Notice the oem dynamat in the middle, haha
[IMG][/IMG]
rear door dynamat inside the panel first

front passenger door. Keep in mind most dynamat is inside paneling. Yes i put scrap pieces wherever i pleased.

Dynamat through the stock sub

Rear deck after

tweets install

sub comparison

crossovers

wiring madness

driver door speaker tap in

placing brackets

after mounting

more wiring fun

bracket to frame

and finally. the after shots


still have most of my trunk

pohljm

Didnt read much other than the list. No need for either coax in the rear or a cap of any kind. boxes look ridiculously small. you can never use to much sound deadener.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Wow, nice work! Are you happy with the sound?

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

For a sealed 10w6v3 looks about right. They use ridiculously small enclosures. Agree on the cap. Rears, eh, personal preference.

pohljm

Well there you go! I see what he did with the width across the trunck divided by 2 enclosures and amp rack. Looks thought out.

dcolucci7

i got the cap for a few reasons. mainly to be sure the alt isnt working too hard. ive heard the digital alt can have issues when drawing too much power. When pumping the tunes hard, ive had 150 amps draw with only .1 drop in voltage. keeps my worries to a minimum. i was actually just told the other day the best thing for these cars is a battcap? i havent looked into it, but im happy in the mean time.

DiamondJoeQuimby

iTrader: (2)

You were bamboozled. It won't make the alternator work less hard, or help with dimming, or help with the Honda alternator rollback stuff.

Also, no on the battcap.

Also, you haven't had a 150 amp draw with those amps (unless you are counting the car itself in that total) because the fuse rating on the 2 amps together is 140. Even counting the car I'd be stunned if you came close to that for any significant time. You haven't approached that except for brief instants unless you routinely listen to pure sine waves at full volume.