Corey_Straker

As I am sure you all know by now the stock audio system is a little weak sause. I've read multiple threads about this, but none had a very clear answer. I'm looking to replace the stock subwoofer with a drop in (no cutting up rear deck) replacement to increase the bass. So far it sounds like I will need 2 things; the subwoofer (no shit) and the wire harness adaptor. I am an audio NOOB so please don't bash me if I don't know some things and ask silly questions. HERE is a sub that another memeber dropped in. It's an 8" Pioneer shallow mount subwoofer.

Also, will it work better than my factory sub even though they are both using the same wattage? I read on the 3G facebook page that someone knew how to modify the stock amp to improve it's overall output to 750watts ( i found hard to believe ). Any tips for helping out the bass/improving sound in the TL would be greatly appreciated

MarcoNorthPolo

That Pioneer sub has a 4ohm impedance. It is a free air sub though, so it does have that going for it. It's also 120w nominal, whereas the stock sub I believe is 45w, so I don't know how well the stock amp would push it. It might be ok.

To be honest, I looked at that Pioneer sub when I was in the market for a new one. I ended up going with a Basslink and I couldn't be happier. Fits right behind the drivers side wheelwell and doesn't take up much room.

350

iTrader: (4)

You'd be way better off putting a box in the trunk and removing the factory sub, or infinite baffle which a lot of people like on here which is more low key looking than a box. Even if you put in a better 8" sub it's still an 8" in free air that is prone to rattling.

Corey_Straker

Hmmmm. So no way of making it sound like the 4G TL's system with more bass & mid without having to make a sub box?

DjTribe__

I would just spend a little more money and put subs in the trunk, I have bose sound system I got with my TL and then I put 2 10" kicker comp r subs with a AC2500 Planet Audio amp with a 2 farad cap. Shit bumps, and I spent like $400

TacoBello

I too would like to do what the OP is talking about. I don't want serious bass. I also don't want to lose any trunk space. All I want is a slight bump in bass while looking completely stock and nothing more. Suggestions?

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

There is an old ambitious thread where someone was trying to generate interest in producing a custom made OEM replacement sub by a vendor that would drop in and sound like a real sub. After a lot of discussion I don't think that took off.

IMO just the way in that there is no kind of serious enclosure behind the sub means an upgrade will do little more than a slight improvement. I don't think it's worth fussing with. An add on sub is the answer.

But even if you aren't looking for earth rattling bass with space consuming 12" subs, I'd say do an add on sub like the Infinity bass-link. These don't cost much, don't take up much space and sound great because the amp, enclosure and sub are all matched perfectly, no guess work. There are a few other brands out there nowadays in it's class.

The only headache you will have to contend with is running wiring to the trunk for the amplifier. If you are willing to do that, trust me it will be worth it!

Arnold503

I dropped in a 8" kicker and have been pleased with it... it definetly does the job for what I needed and was only $40 bucks on eBay

TacoBello

What model? And you didn't modify anything? Stock amp? Single voice coil sub? Dual voice coil?

TacoBello

Nah, I'm too old for that. Just don't have interest in doing mods like that to be honest. If I can improve the bass by 20% over stock, I'd be thrilled. And that's not all that much.

Arnold503

I got an 04 TL and was a direct drop in for a perfect fit and running off the factory amp its a kicker comp c8. Don't remember if it was single or double tho!

Arnold503

I used double sided 3M emlblem/molding adhesive around the sub and around the edge of factory sub hole to mount and seal it. The weight of the magnet provides a good secure mount and once it sticks I could not even remove it!

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Yea, I totally get you with the too old thing (technically I am too. But one part of my brain fights it with denial, lol) that's why I was suggesting the Basslink. It is just one speaker, small and definitely not more than 20% of stock. Subs like mine are made to push air and just rattle the neighborhood, lol. These are different. They are for really listening to your music IN the car. It's just balanced, clear, fills in the bottom end and will hit all the right notes. Think of the sub in your home theater system, that's essentially what this is like.

I don't see a drop in sub without an amp being able to do anything impressive at all.

Max Attitude

Is this the same one you bought?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KICKER-10-2010-C8-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-8-8-OHM-COMP-SUBWOOFER-SUB-WOOFER-10C88-10C8-/390943282618?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item5b060915ba

eastcoastguy

I did some research on the Basslink and it seems great for a year or so and then it seems like people had trouble with them quitting. If I am going to get something like that I want it to last me awhile.

pohljm

my son has a basslink at it has worked fine for years

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

When I was a young kid I blew PLENTY of subs and amps. Mostly because I was an idiot and experimenting, not because of the quality of the amp/sub. My current setup? 10yrs running rock solid. Why? Because I am an adult now, lol. But it's not like I don't blare it 90% of the time. I just know what I'm doing now.

You're are not limited to the Basslink by any means, nowadays there is a whole category like this. They all are pretty much similar. Small form factor, (Some can even fit under your seat instead of in your trunk.) perfect spec'd enclosure and an amp that is matched as well. No-brainer, just install. Not to mention ridiculously inexpensive. I'm going to do this on my next daily driver instead of monster double 12s. Not overkill by any means and will definitely be a worthy upgrade over the pathetic stock one:






And many more, just search.

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Custom 3G TL side mounted enclosure in the trunk, with JL 12W6 and Alpine Amp (nothing fancy) and its more than enough for my needs. Did end up costing a bit but its quality stuff that I see myself moving into another vehicle in the future. With the exception of the enclosure of course.

SleekSilverTL

Rockyfeller... lets say I use this drop in sub... what would be a good amp to run it, that would also be near plug and play without much wiring or changing things up.

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Not sure on what you mean based on the excerpt of the quote you used. Do you mean to ask what kind of amp would you use with a drop in sub (which I am advising against) or an add on small sub/enclosure? Because the ones I am referring already have a built in amp. That's the whole point. It is foolproof because the amp, sub and enclosure is all matched. The only work for you is to wire it up.

To ask me what amp for the subs are plug and play....don't we wish....well there really no such thing. If you want subs that don't use the factory amp you are going to have put the work in to wire things up, no way way around that.

But really, as Elegant said when you don't mind going a bit extra and getting the real quality stuff you will hear the difference. The work involved will be worth it and you won't have regrets. If you're new to this stuff, this is a way to start small and get into it. You don't have to go huge and heavy with it, just keep it within means. You won't go back.

mikezpc

Hey Arnold,
As per my PM, I thought I should post these questions here as they might be helpful to others too.

1) You did mention it was a perfect drop in, so you didn't have to modify the deck, top or bottom? the magnet didn't hit anything or sit too high? I ask because it seems to be about an inch deeper than the stock sub.

2) Were you able to use the same screws that were used in the stock sub?

3) I see that that sub is 4ohms whereas the stock is 2ohms, did you notice any difference in volume level?

4) Most importantly, how does it sound compared to the stock sub? you seem pretty happy with it from your posts, and like you I plan on using the factory amp.

5) What did you do for the wiring? from pictures I saw online of the factory sub, it looks like it uses the same connector as the door and rear speakers, so i think simplest way would be to use one of those aftermarket adapters, or perhaps remove the connector from the factory wires, that's pretty easy, it unclips and then you can slide out the wires and they will still have the female connectors on them. That's what I did when i changed my center channel speaker.

I was actually considering to get this Pioneer from ebay since it's a free air sub and it's 2ohms, i've seen some others that used the previous version which was 4ohm and they seem to like it, but it is about $20 more than the kicker, which btw you seem to have gotten a great deal on because i can't find that kicker for less than $54 on ebay at the moment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271609893553?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
and last question kinda, if you had the choice to do it all over, would you go with the same sub? overall was it worth the time, money and effort to swap out the stock sub with it?

I really appreciate your answers

Freefallin06

I am going to steal my old setup that now resides in wifeys SUV back so I can put it in my new TL.


Exile mono amp (cant remember specs, got it for free and it rips) with the Alpine Type R 8" sub in the factory matched ported enclosure. This little 8" sounds every bit as good as any of the 10's I have ran. Now, it's definitely NOT a Type R 10", because we know those are flipping insane, but it sounds better across the entire spectrum of base than anything I've ever had. Highly recommend...


Sean

g2redgsr

i haven't taken it apart yet but I'm going to have to stop the rattle back there anyway, so i don't know what it looks like back there yet but you can't cut out and put in a 12 back there an attach an amp to the back of the seat?

876_CGP_TSX

Any update on the answers to these questions?....would love to know as well!

mikezpc

Not yet still waiting, i got a temp solution for now, using a single 12" in a sealed box running off the factory amp, i just unplugged the factory sub and plugged them in the 12 but it's under powered but below 15 on volume it sounds decent. I did it cuz i couldn't spend another day w the rear deck rattling. I might get the newer kicker 8" single voice coil 2 ohm and it seem to have the same dimensions as the C8 but i can't see how they fit without any cutting, stock sub depth seems alot less than the kicker so i don't know. I would hate to spend $80 on a sub that won't fit or sound better.

QuickTL07

As to OP. You need a sub that could do well in IB setup which is what we have at our cars. Free Air to make it sound better.
There is a lot of options out there, I dont know about 8" sub but if you put to much power on any free air sub, you gonna blow it up, the coil will extend and you will bottom it out very fast, Free air subs or application doesn't need ton of power to get the sub moving and get sound out of it. Not every sub will be able to do free air application.

When you going IB its all about cone area, the more cone you have the better the output and also there are other factors involved.

imakiing

I'm using an image dynamics Idq 8" I have a 4 channel RE 800 Watt amp with a AudioControl 6 channel output converter the converter has an equalizer for all my speakers and I couldn't believe it sounded this good!

mikezpc

Do you have it in a box or in the stock sub location? This thing has almost 5" mounting depth

QuickTL07

IDQ and IDMAX subs are great for IB setup, great choice of gear.

enzyme

I am pretty much a noob when it comes to car audio hardware. Seeking some much needed advice for a solution.

So I pretty much looked up the specs of stock system and proceeded to buy an amp and sub for a quick swap & drop in solution. This was before I got on to reading all of the aches and pains about replacing the stock 8" sub. I also bought an amp with the intention of an easy swap and keeping at the same location. It is fairly small and low profile.

Sub: Kicker 8" CompD , Amp: Cerwin Vega Stealth 800.5

At this point I am ready to ditch the idea of the 8" sub in the rear deck. Though this sub looks very much like one that a member here was able to just drop in. I don't need any serious thumping bass, I like to listen to my music loud though. Ideally I'd like the sound to travel a bit outside the car at loud volumes and still sound good, not distorting the music.

I am really digging the sub locations in the corners of the trunk. Looks very clean and space-saving. (posts 2, 3, 17)

- Is that a box a universal or custom box? Where can I get one?

- Can the amp I have handle the speakers and a 10-12" sub? Will I need another mono amp?

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

it's a custom box that some stores have made molds for. you can get that box from markland designs (that's who i went with...great price, fast work) or wicked cas (more expensive). both produce great results.





whether you need another amp or or not depends on which sub you go with. you want to match up the rms specs to each other.

i don't like booming bass but i love music with some depth, which a nice sub adds. you were doomed from the start with the 8", people usually scrap that idea once they start getting into it. get the custom box, keep your full trunk space, and you're good to go. other option is go infinite baffle, but that wasn't the route for me (search the forum for more details)

enzyme

Sorry, I totally intended to start a new thread but I had so many subwoofer threads opened at once, this was one of them lol. Now I guess I don't have to anymore, being green =)

I probably wouldn't mind it if I had to get a separate mono for a new sub. I am going to replace the stock amp for sure. OOh OOh, hey maybe keep the stock 8" on the new amp along with the speakers for now for a slight improvement and see how it sounds.

Likely will still get the trunk set up. Thanks for the tip

hannamand

Interesting thread. I was thinking of dropping in a self amplifying bass tube and figuring out a way of porting it through the center speaker (there's a lot of room between those shock towers)... but I didn't realize there was enough room for a 8" kicker.

91vtec

sub to thread for BASS!

yakko1zzz

interested in a no-mod, mod as well.

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

Kicker CVX 12 running at 4ohm, 1200.1 kicker amp(heavily underated) , 2.6cuft slot ported box tuned to 40hz . (Fiber fill soon to mid 30s)

I don't care, I do what I want! Lol

Sounds awesome, ppl are blown away that it's just one sub. But takes up a bunch of space.

Billy B

How did you install it? I am doing the exact same thing but i’m not sure on how to go about it.

pohljm

Take old sub out put new proper sub in and connect.

Billy B

Can you do that by accessing it through the trunk and taking it out or do I have to take out the whole rear deck off to get the sub out?

pohljm

seat back out rear deck out