DIY: Aftermarket Amp Install, Speaker Install, AudioControl Matrix Install w/ PICS!
09-07-2013, 11:07 AM
#121
Suzuka Master
5 channel amp is all you need if you have an efficient sub setup. Coaxials in the rear are a big no no. No real need for any rear speakers at all. Keep them and the center channel on OEM amp. Front 4 channels bridged to components thru passive crossover.
10-03-2013, 10:03 PM
#124
sorry for bumping this thread up again, but i was wondering if anyone had troubles with there aftermarket subwoofers cutting in and out? my line out converter is on but my amp turns on and off constantly as im driving
07-17-2014, 02:56 PM
#126
I'm going to attempt a subset of this install, I don't know how I will do it, but I believe in myself!
What I have now is front components already installed, power and ground running to trunk. That's it. I have a 4ch amp, single 10" sub, and the 6ch matrix. So I only need the fronts and sub wires from the head unit. What's the best way to do this? Should I cut off those selected wires only or do I solder onto them after splicing them? Confused about this part and probably a ton of others as I start.
What I have now is front components already installed, power and ground running to trunk. That's it. I have a 4ch amp, single 10" sub, and the 6ch matrix. So I only need the fronts and sub wires from the head unit. What's the best way to do this? Should I cut off those selected wires only or do I solder onto them after splicing them? Confused about this part and probably a ton of others as I start.
07-22-2014, 05:47 PM
#129
Instead of using the audiocontrol matrix. Would it be safe if i put a line out converter on the 6.5 speakers in the back and use it to for my highs amp? I already have a line out converter on the factory subwoofer line. I dont see any need for me using a lc6 because i am using the facotry radio and i dont turn the dolby on so the center speaker never plays.
08-08-2014, 01:25 PM
#130
08-08-2014, 02:26 PM
#131
Suzuka Master
I have no idea why you would take any signal after the craptastic stock amp? all signals should come directly from the HU. keep rears and center on stock amp only
08-16-2014, 05:44 PM
#132
Instead of hacking up your stock harness, and doing all the extra work of splicing RCA's in. Has anybody just tried using this amplifier integration box from Pac? It's PnP. I'm guessing this was not around when OP wrote the thread.
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=28
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JMiles_T (10-03-2014)
08-24-2014, 06:11 PM
#133
I just put in the pac audio harness that plugs and plays behind the factory radio. The good new is the remote turn on wire does have 12 volts to turn on the aftermarket amps. I tried t tapping the remote wire by the factory amplifier and the after market amp would not come on. The voltage at this wire measures 5.8 volts, not enough to turn on some after market amps. I then used a add a fuse and put in slot 32, problem is the ignition has to be on to keep amp on. If you turn back your key the radio will stay on but the aftermarket amp shuts off. Not ideal. FYI you will definitely need a line driver. The output voltage is very low on the RCA coming out of the pac piece. But it does give you front and rear outputs without cutting any wires.
Supposedly the PGHH-D2c wire plugs into the black plug by the amps which is the low level side. You can add RCA'a here as well for center and sub. I also found that the Honda Element Amplifier Bypass Metra 70-1726 will plug into the Grey plug and this will give you access to your factory speaker wires without cutting anything. Also the metra 72-7800 will fit into the wire harnesses that unplug from your factory speakers. Obviously I do not like to cut into the factory harnesses. I always put the factory stuff back when I sell the car. This makes it a breeze to do. I hope this helps.
I am having a hard time deciding on the Rockford 3 sixty.3 or the arc ms8. I have heard negative things about the Rockford but very little on the ARC ms8. Any advice would be helpful.
Supposedly the PGHH-D2c wire plugs into the black plug by the amps which is the low level side. You can add RCA'a here as well for center and sub. I also found that the Honda Element Amplifier Bypass Metra 70-1726 will plug into the Grey plug and this will give you access to your factory speaker wires without cutting anything. Also the metra 72-7800 will fit into the wire harnesses that unplug from your factory speakers. Obviously I do not like to cut into the factory harnesses. I always put the factory stuff back when I sell the car. This makes it a breeze to do. I hope this helps.
I am having a hard time deciding on the Rockford 3 sixty.3 or the arc ms8. I have heard negative things about the Rockford but very little on the ARC ms8. Any advice would be helpful.
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Killabee44 (08-24-2014)
08-24-2014, 10:34 PM
#134
Thanks frisbeecooper. That definitely helps.
The OP (deathtotoasters) posted a link to this thread which had info as to what color wire goes to what speaker, etc but the link is dead. Does anyone have a link that works? Thanks.
"Now to see the specs of WHAT wire color is goes to what, please see this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showt...7&page=2&pp=25"
The OP (deathtotoasters) posted a link to this thread which had info as to what color wire goes to what speaker, etc but the link is dead. Does anyone have a link that works? Thanks.
"Now to see the specs of WHAT wire color is goes to what, please see this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showt...7&page=2&pp=25"
08-28-2014, 04:01 PM
#136
B-MAC
DO NOT GROUND YOUR AMP HERE!
The other wire on this bolt is the rear fuel pump ground! If you ground your amp to this bolt you run the risk of blowing out your fuel pump which costs a few hundred dollars to replace.
Other than that, this thread is awesome. I used the information from this thread to do my original install.
The other wire on this bolt is the rear fuel pump ground! If you ground your amp to this bolt you run the risk of blowing out your fuel pump which costs a few hundred dollars to replace.
Other than that, this thread is awesome. I used the information from this thread to do my original install.
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petroboy37ent (11-18-2015)
09-03-2014, 11:34 PM
#137
8th Gear
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Amp Loosing Power
Also, I ran into a weird problem and wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions. So I ran all my wires just as the OP stated (Awesome DIY BTW!)
but I added a capacitor in the trunk and I used a LOC instead of a Audio Control Matrix. The Amp I'm running is a MTX Thunder TA7801 and Sub is a JL 12w6, so the problem is when I initially hooked everything up its sounded awesome! I was really pleased, but a few days later the amp would loose power, it would be on and playing but not as hard as it originally was. Then hours later if I left the car it would come back on, It will never cut off while it was playing, like a short or something but more so just stop. So I went and got a brand new higher cranking battery, and same thing, then I checked the amp levels and they were the same, jiggled wires and no response, checked the cap and it was powered.
At this point, Im stumped... I cant figure out what it is, I wondered if the factory amp had a sound filter of some sort and was lowering the signal going to the stock sub wires which are going to the LOC, my next step is to check the amp, im thinking of upgrading to the JL 1000/1 but I gotta figure this out first.
12-21-2014, 11:13 PM
#138
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I Wanna Go Fast (07-11-2015)
10-26-2016, 12:44 PM
#141
10th Gear
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when you say dash, do you mean tweeters? all you will need to do is use a plastic pry tool to pry them out, then either splice your crossover + tweeter on, and you will need to mod the stock tweeter housing to accomodate them. when installing new tweeters remember to use a crossover or else the low frequencies that are sent to the door speakers will blow them out
11-13-2016, 07:32 PM
#142
This helped me big time! Thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures. I easily fit a 0 gauge through the grommet/firewall. Just kept pushing it through, looked at the driver side foot well, and there it was! Now just gotta run it along the bottom sills to the trunk. Doing a battery relocation.
OP also pointed out a good ground area too which I will look for and use. Just need to find a way to get a vent tube to vent outside the car now.
OP also pointed out a good ground area too which I will look for and use. Just need to find a way to get a vent tube to vent outside the car now.
04-13-2017, 04:47 PM
#143
3rd Gear
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Thanks for your help... Still having problems with converting plugs from amp to rca. All i need is one because i want to run a preamp equalizer to 2 amps 1 is a 4channel and 1 is a mono block for subs. I am going to re wire all aftermarket speakers with 12 gauge also. Can you explain to me how to use the plugs or what wire can i use to conver to rca... Thank you
06-02-2021, 04:22 PM
#145
Well here we go. I have been asking A LOT of questions of A LOT of people. Some of you may have noticed me posting several new threads at once!
Anyway, I have not seen a total DIY for adding aftermarket amps and new speakers to the ’05 TL with pics, so I thought I would document my journey through this crazy adventure.
With the addition of the 5.1 ELS Surround into the TL, I know it has been hard to get all 5 channels PLUS sub to work with an aftermarket amp and STILL be able to use the headunit for all the controls. Plus most of all, keep the great sound.
Well after lot of search, calling companies, and more then anything the SMART, HELPFUL and RESOURCEFUL people on this board, there have been a few solutions to this issue.
The path I chose was this.
What I am installing is the following:
Diamond Audio s600s Components
Diamond Audio M361i Rears
Diamond Audio D65.2 560 Watt 7 Channel Amp (60 x 5, 70 x 2)
AudioControl Matrix
Rockford Fosgate 10” Phase 2 Subwoofer (soon to be replaced with something )
Well to start with, let’s get the car torn apart so we can work without distraction. There are several threads showing how to tear apart the car. I will not repeat the information but will just provide links to those threads.
First you have to take out the back seats and rear deck to get to the rear speakers, the subwoofer, and also to run the wires easily. Thanks to the resourceful and helpful moderator, RON A for the scans!!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107568
Please read those warnings about the SRS system seriously. You don’t want one of those suckers going off in your face!!
Please note that this is the ONLY way to remove the stock sub and rear speakers. You can GET to them from underneath, but they have to be removed from above.
Once all that is removed, set everything aside:
Attachment 56148
Next take apart the side pillars and moldings on both sides of the car. The driver’s side will be used to run the power wire from the battery. The passenger side is where the stock amp is and the Matrix is going to be installed.
Here is a link with instructions for removing the B-Pillar and side trims. Thanks again to RON A. Once again please take note of the SRS warnings.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...light=b-pillar
Once all that is removed, it is time to run the power wire from the battery.
The hardest thing I had to do in my ’02 TL-S was to find a grommet to run the power cable through. The ’05 is SIMPLE.
In the middle of the Engine Compartment about 8-9” down from the top you will see am empty grommet. Just pluck it out. Then push your finger in the grommet and you will feel the insulation. Once you rip a little hole in the insulation, just feed the wire through.
Below are a couple of pics showing the location of the grommet.
Attachment 56149
Attachment 56150
Attachment 56151
Once you thread the wire through, you go into the driver’s floor area and look up to the center middle console. My wire was just hanging out of the side there. Depending on how you thread it, you may have to fish around behind the middle console to grab it.
Once you find the wire, just pull it around to the drivers kick panel area, running it over other wires to keep it out of the way of the foot well.
Run the power wire down the kick panel and use ties to make it run with the flow of the current wire setup.
Attachment 56152
Next run the wire through the trim panels, the b-pillar and rear trim until you reach the rear cabin area.
Attachment 56153
Once that is completed, I suggest you run the wire into the trunk through the rear seat area where your amp is going to have the POWER input. This is all random as we are all using different amps.
The power wire can run under the seat as it will not cause any problems at all.
Since my amps power area is going to be on the driver’s side, the picture below shows my running the cord along that pattern.
Leave the wire running into the trunk and use some electrical tape on the end for safety.
I don’t have the amp yet (2 more days) so I am just going to leave it sitting in the trunk until then.
In the next segment I will show how I replaced the rear speakers, replaced the wiring for the rear speakers so that they can be ran by the new amp in the trunk.
But the best part is how I learned to utilize the OEM rear speaker and sub wiring for the front speakers and center channel, WITHOUT running any new wires to the new amp in the trunk.
DANG I wish I could take credit for that…but that idea goes to chusteveb.
Please see the following link for exactly the process: (I am not going to repeat the whole concept here as it would just be as easy for everyone to hear it from chusteveb himself)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...0&postcount=31
I need some sleep and will post the rest tomorrow. Hope you all enjoy it. I have to admit it is fun writing this.
Anyway, I have not seen a total DIY for adding aftermarket amps and new speakers to the ’05 TL with pics, so I thought I would document my journey through this crazy adventure.
With the addition of the 5.1 ELS Surround into the TL, I know it has been hard to get all 5 channels PLUS sub to work with an aftermarket amp and STILL be able to use the headunit for all the controls. Plus most of all, keep the great sound.
Well after lot of search, calling companies, and more then anything the SMART, HELPFUL and RESOURCEFUL people on this board, there have been a few solutions to this issue.
The path I chose was this.
What I am installing is the following:
Diamond Audio s600s Components
Diamond Audio M361i Rears
Diamond Audio D65.2 560 Watt 7 Channel Amp (60 x 5, 70 x 2)
AudioControl Matrix
Rockford Fosgate 10” Phase 2 Subwoofer (soon to be replaced with something )
Well to start with, let’s get the car torn apart so we can work without distraction. There are several threads showing how to tear apart the car. I will not repeat the information but will just provide links to those threads.
First you have to take out the back seats and rear deck to get to the rear speakers, the subwoofer, and also to run the wires easily. Thanks to the resourceful and helpful moderator, RON A for the scans!!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107568
Please read those warnings about the SRS system seriously. You don’t want one of those suckers going off in your face!!
Please note that this is the ONLY way to remove the stock sub and rear speakers. You can GET to them from underneath, but they have to be removed from above.
Once all that is removed, set everything aside:
Attachment 56148
Next take apart the side pillars and moldings on both sides of the car. The driver’s side will be used to run the power wire from the battery. The passenger side is where the stock amp is and the Matrix is going to be installed.
Here is a link with instructions for removing the B-Pillar and side trims. Thanks again to RON A. Once again please take note of the SRS warnings.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...light=b-pillar
Once all that is removed, it is time to run the power wire from the battery.
The hardest thing I had to do in my ’02 TL-S was to find a grommet to run the power cable through. The ’05 is SIMPLE.
In the middle of the Engine Compartment about 8-9” down from the top you will see am empty grommet. Just pluck it out. Then push your finger in the grommet and you will feel the insulation. Once you rip a little hole in the insulation, just feed the wire through.
Below are a couple of pics showing the location of the grommet.
Attachment 56149
Attachment 56150
Attachment 56151
Once you thread the wire through, you go into the driver’s floor area and look up to the center middle console. My wire was just hanging out of the side there. Depending on how you thread it, you may have to fish around behind the middle console to grab it.
Once you find the wire, just pull it around to the drivers kick panel area, running it over other wires to keep it out of the way of the foot well.
Run the power wire down the kick panel and use ties to make it run with the flow of the current wire setup.
Attachment 56152
Next run the wire through the trim panels, the b-pillar and rear trim until you reach the rear cabin area.
Attachment 56153
Once that is completed, I suggest you run the wire into the trunk through the rear seat area where your amp is going to have the POWER input. This is all random as we are all using different amps.
The power wire can run under the seat as it will not cause any problems at all.
Since my amps power area is going to be on the driver’s side, the picture below shows my running the cord along that pattern.
Leave the wire running into the trunk and use some electrical tape on the end for safety.
I don’t have the amp yet (2 more days) so I am just going to leave it sitting in the trunk until then.
In the next segment I will show how I replaced the rear speakers, replaced the wiring for the rear speakers so that they can be ran by the new amp in the trunk.
But the best part is how I learned to utilize the OEM rear speaker and sub wiring for the front speakers and center channel, WITHOUT running any new wires to the new amp in the trunk.
DANG I wish I could take credit for that…but that idea goes to chusteveb.
Please see the following link for exactly the process: (I am not going to repeat the whole concept here as it would just be as easy for everyone to hear it from chusteveb himself)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...0&postcount=31
I need some sleep and will post the rest tomorrow. Hope you all enjoy it. I have to admit it is fun writing this.
06-23-2022, 02:35 PM
#146
We Are Venom
I grounded here but made sure to use a wire brush and get it to baremetal. I tested voltage drop and only get a .03 of a difference across the two amps that I have verses the battery.(14.16 battery vs 14.13 on amps) This is a very old thread but hoping that someone can provide some clarity on why it's a bad grounding spot. I cannot think of any reason other than you guys not sanding the paint down on this area first. A Ground is a ground as long as its baremetal. If someone can correct me and tell me why sharing this grounding spot is bad, I should def find a dif ground.
Last edited by sbstnce; 06-23-2022 at 02:37 PM.
06-24-2022, 02:07 PM
#147
Suzuka Master
you can pick up noise using a shared ground
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