DIY: Aftermarket Amp Install, Speaker Install, AudioControl Matrix Install w/ PICS!
01-21-2007, 05:22 PM
#81
Cruisin'
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This is really helpful stuff! thanks man. I'm a handy guy myself and only do stuff to my car myself. This made my life much easier. I also have a question if you can please answer it. Is it possible for me to hook up that same power coming from the engine to the trunk to power my amp and my playstation? Or would you know how I can power my playstation in the trunk?
Thanks for your help buddy.
Thanks for your help buddy.
03-19-2007, 05:53 PM
#82
Cruisin'
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I'm doing a nearly all kenwood system, head unit with bluetooth receiver for the phone, and two excelon amps, one for the 4 cabin speakers and one for the new alpine sub. Eclipse 2-way components for the front and alpine 2-ways for the rear. I have most installed but cannot get the back of the rear seat off in my "03 type S. Got the bottom out but there are supposed to be 2 bolts on the upper part of the back that need to be loosened. I can't seem to locate them. Anyone have a clue? Are the heads of these facing the backside of the seatback or do I have to go into the trunk and remove some of the carpet inside to see them?
03-19-2007, 05:56 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by Scarface_
This is really helpful stuff! thanks man. I'm a handy guy myself and only do stuff to my car myself. This made my life much easier. I also have a question if you can please answer it. Is it possible for me to hook up that same power coming from the engine to the trunk to power my amp and my playstation? Or would you know how I can power my playstation in the trunk?
Thanks for your help buddy.
Thanks for your help buddy.
05-18-2007, 07:54 PM
#84
Three Wheelin'
I just got a Rockford Fosgate Punch amp: 1500W 700RMS 4Ch. Do you guys think i can have a good setup if i got a JL 8W3V2 sub with factory speakers? Or should i go for speaker replacements and a boxed sub in the back? Also I wanna keep the 5.1.
09-15-2007, 11:01 AM
#86
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Well let me first say that I appreciate all the comments on everything I did.
Now let me tell you all a little story....gather around in a circle on the floor.....good, now you all need to be quiet while I tell this story..... Johnny stop chewing gum with your mouth open, it's rude.
Ok....here we go....
A Long time ago, in a Galaxy Far Far Away..... Actually how about Wednesday night in Southern California, but there is not a better story opening
My wife and I put our 3 children to sleep. We then go to bed. About 2:30 in the morning my wife wakes me up saying:
"Honey, there is someone knocking on our door"
"You are crazy, there is not anyone there"
She hits me "I am not crazy and yes there is!"
I open my laptop which happen to be next to my bed and brought up the security cameras I have around the house.
"Wow there is someone there!"
I go downstairs and find it to be my neighbor.
"Pam...whats wrong?"
"I just caught two guys stealing stuff from your car!"
My face was white as a ghost.
I go outside to find that all the the large PG amp is gone, the smaller 4 channels was all torn up, she ran outside before they could finish taking it. They ransacked the inside, taking my ipod which was locked in the glove box (I don't usually keep it in there, but I was in a rush when I got home and forgot to take it with me)
They took my sirius radio, after the thrashed the mounting.
They took the sub.
Now I can always replace items but the worst part about all this, is that they cut ALL the wires they saw, which included the DVD NAV STOCK wires. So now the nav is dead and the whole MAIN wire harness needs to be replaced.
Well the cops got there, and even though there were tons of greasy finger prints everywhere and I had them on VIDEO, they said that everything was probably sold before I even wake up the next day, and there was nothing more to do then take a report.
I have them on film going from car to car on the block with a flashlight looking in cars for the cream of the crop to rip off.
The alarm did go off, but they popped the hood and cut the siren.
They obviously were not looking to steal the whole car, which probably would have been better for me over all.
The damage assessment without replacing the wire harness from acura is over $2700. I almost forgot how much those custom mounts cost!
For those of you wondering why it was in the driveway that night. Well I was building something for the wife in the garage and had to park my car in the driveway for a few days.
Lesson learned...
So what is the lesson here?
Hell if I know, but if I ever find out who did this..hmmmmm going to be a fun day.
I will keep you update on the fixing of the auto...
Now let me tell you all a little story....gather around in a circle on the floor.....good, now you all need to be quiet while I tell this story..... Johnny stop chewing gum with your mouth open, it's rude.
Ok....here we go....
A Long time ago, in a Galaxy Far Far Away..... Actually how about Wednesday night in Southern California, but there is not a better story opening
My wife and I put our 3 children to sleep. We then go to bed. About 2:30 in the morning my wife wakes me up saying:
"Honey, there is someone knocking on our door"
"You are crazy, there is not anyone there"
She hits me "I am not crazy and yes there is!"
I open my laptop which happen to be next to my bed and brought up the security cameras I have around the house.
"Wow there is someone there!"
I go downstairs and find it to be my neighbor.
"Pam...whats wrong?"
"I just caught two guys stealing stuff from your car!"
My face was white as a ghost.
I go outside to find that all the the large PG amp is gone, the smaller 4 channels was all torn up, she ran outside before they could finish taking it. They ransacked the inside, taking my ipod which was locked in the glove box (I don't usually keep it in there, but I was in a rush when I got home and forgot to take it with me)
They took my sirius radio, after the thrashed the mounting.
They took the sub.
Now I can always replace items but the worst part about all this, is that they cut ALL the wires they saw, which included the DVD NAV STOCK wires. So now the nav is dead and the whole MAIN wire harness needs to be replaced.
Well the cops got there, and even though there were tons of greasy finger prints everywhere and I had them on VIDEO, they said that everything was probably sold before I even wake up the next day, and there was nothing more to do then take a report.
I have them on film going from car to car on the block with a flashlight looking in cars for the cream of the crop to rip off.
The alarm did go off, but they popped the hood and cut the siren.
They obviously were not looking to steal the whole car, which probably would have been better for me over all.
The damage assessment without replacing the wire harness from acura is over $2700. I almost forgot how much those custom mounts cost!
For those of you wondering why it was in the driveway that night. Well I was building something for the wife in the garage and had to park my car in the driveway for a few days.
Lesson learned...
So what is the lesson here?
Hell if I know, but if I ever find out who did this..hmmmmm going to be a fun day.
I will keep you update on the fixing of the auto...
09-15-2007, 02:28 PM
#87
Burning Brakes
Glad to hear for you again Deathto Toasters. You've always been a great story teller.
But it really sucks about your car.
Lesson learned----- Let the wife build her own stuff and make her park in the driveway
But it really sucks about your car.
Lesson learned----- Let the wife build her own stuff and make her park in the driveway
09-16-2007, 10:56 PM
#89
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haha, im very sorry 2 hear, truthfully what had happened is my worst nightmare, hopefully u find the coperates and everything works out, lol i wish i saw pics of ur completed system dawg.
01-30-2008, 03:25 AM
#90
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Death to Toasters,
First of all, VERY sorry to hear about your car. I can't even imagine how I would have felt in your shoes. Frackin' thieves!
Secondly, you have done an outstanding job on your DIY threads. I did the same thing myself years ago on a very elaborate Maxima install. I just wanted you to know from one DIY-er to another that I will be using your info extensively when I start planning and installing my system in my '08 TL-S.
I'm planning on having an active 2 or 3-way Dynaudio system up front, more Dynaudios for the rear, a Hybrid Audio Legatia L3 3" midrange for the center channel, Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2, and several PG amps - including two ZX475ti's, and a Xenon 1200.1. I have an Image Dynamics IDMAX 10" sub I'll probably end up using as well. I can't overemphasize how much I appreciate your hard work once I get started.
Thanks in advance!!
Tony
First of all, VERY sorry to hear about your car. I can't even imagine how I would have felt in your shoes. Frackin' thieves!
Secondly, you have done an outstanding job on your DIY threads. I did the same thing myself years ago on a very elaborate Maxima install. I just wanted you to know from one DIY-er to another that I will be using your info extensively when I start planning and installing my system in my '08 TL-S.
I'm planning on having an active 2 or 3-way Dynaudio system up front, more Dynaudios for the rear, a Hybrid Audio Legatia L3 3" midrange for the center channel, Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2, and several PG amps - including two ZX475ti's, and a Xenon 1200.1. I have an Image Dynamics IDMAX 10" sub I'll probably end up using as well. I can't overemphasize how much I appreciate your hard work once I get started.
Thanks in advance!!
Tony
06-27-2008, 01:44 AM
#94
2008 NBP TL
Toasters, I have two questions:
1. Did you lose your HFL functionality when you got rid of the stock amp?
2. Could you elaborate on how you kept your XM functionality? I don't understand how it ties into the stock amp.
1. Did you lose your HFL functionality when you got rid of the stock amp?
2. Could you elaborate on how you kept your XM functionality? I don't understand how it ties into the stock amp.
07-12-2008, 05:06 AM
#95
2008 NBP TL
Originally Posted by DeathtoToasters
Part 2:
Just use a size 10 socket to loosen it and place your ground wire terminal and underneath it and you will be great!
Just use a size 10 socket to loosen it and place your ground wire terminal and underneath it and you will be great!
09-13-2008, 11:45 PM
#96
05 TL
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DeathToToasters, Thank you so much! You took 5+ hours off my install! Pointing out the grommet in the firewall, the grounding point.
I would like to point out some lessons learned. You need (I needed) 20 ft of powercable to get to the grounding bolt. (10 inches was a loop around the battery) but still a 18 ft power kit will not work.
To make line level RCA cables ( XB-CLRAIC2-SW for people googling it + amp + install ) the positive side connects to the center, negative to the outside. I had some mid-quality RCA cables that had screw connectors. Cut them open and remove half the negative wire, soldered and enjoyed..
Also, HomeDepot had a 4-gauge adapter that I used for the ground. And I would recommend not using Phoenix Gold Wiring kits. I had a piece if Rockford Fosgate 4 gauge, it had alot more copper.
Again DTT, thank you.
I would like to point out some lessons learned. You need (I needed) 20 ft of powercable to get to the grounding bolt. (10 inches was a loop around the battery) but still a 18 ft power kit will not work.
To make line level RCA cables ( XB-CLRAIC2-SW for people googling it + amp + install ) the positive side connects to the center, negative to the outside. I had some mid-quality RCA cables that had screw connectors. Cut them open and remove half the negative wire, soldered and enjoyed..
Also, HomeDepot had a 4-gauge adapter that I used for the ground. And I would recommend not using Phoenix Gold Wiring kits. I had a piece if Rockford Fosgate 4 gauge, it had alot more copper.
Again DTT, thank you.
Last edited by Kracker; 09-13-2008 at 11:48 PM.
11-02-2008, 06:49 PM
#97
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has anyone just upgraded all there speakers? and sub?
im wondering if this would give u alittle more base for the stock sub. and better sound from stock speaker by replacing all speakers with better aftermarket..
problem is , i dont want to mess around with wiring, Done soo many upgrades on past car stereo's and lost money when selling car that i just want to do the simple stereo upgrade for alittle better sound..
any recommendations on what speakers would sound best (boston acoustic) and what sub fits perfect on stock location??
thanks experts for the help
im wondering if this would give u alittle more base for the stock sub. and better sound from stock speaker by replacing all speakers with better aftermarket..
problem is , i dont want to mess around with wiring, Done soo many upgrades on past car stereo's and lost money when selling car that i just want to do the simple stereo upgrade for alittle better sound..
any recommendations on what speakers would sound best (boston acoustic) and what sub fits perfect on stock location??
thanks experts for the help
11-05-2008, 11:40 AM
#98
8th Gear
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Is there a way to replace the stock head unit? I cant seem to find any dash kits on ebay or anywhere else. I also have failed to find a diy on this site. Great tutorial on the speaker install! thank
11-08-2008, 08:03 PM
#99
05 TL
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Again, DeathToToasters... Thank you.
This is the homedepot part that simplified my life:
This is how I attached the power to my battery:
The sub fits perfect:
From the trunk:
Just the amp:
This is the homedepot part that simplified my life:
This is how I attached the power to my battery:
The sub fits perfect:
From the trunk:
Just the amp:
11-09-2008, 05:00 PM
#100
Instructor
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be sure to seal the hole in your firewall after running the power wire, i found out the hard way after water fried my ecu. lucky for me the dealership picked up the tab.
12-14-2008, 03:45 PM
#102
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[quote=DeathtoToasters;8387801]With the addition of the 5.1 ELS Surround into the TL, I know it has been hard to get all 5 channels PLUS sub to work with an aftermarket amp and STILL be able to use the headunit for all the controls. Plus most of all, keep the great sound.
DeathtoToasters,
I have a new post with an issue involving an aftermarket sub/amp install. Would you mind reading to see if you recognize my problem?
Thanks,
~Zach~
'08 TL Type-S
DeathtoToasters,
I have a new post with an issue involving an aftermarket sub/amp install. Would you mind reading to see if you recognize my problem?
Thanks,
~Zach~
'08 TL Type-S
03-20-2010, 03:18 PM
#104
Bump if anyone has some updated info to add please do add it so this topic is a good data base. I would like to add a bigger amp to power all the OEM speakers (all but sub) I understand do not sound that bad when more power is given to them. I all ready have one of uncald4 custom sub enclosers for the trunk and plan on getting a 10" JL 10w6v2
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6
and give it it's max power....with a better amp then OEM just not sure which amp may do it all or if it is possible if some one can post info on a good amp that will do it all.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=6
and give it it's max power....with a better amp then OEM just not sure which amp may do it all or if it is possible if some one can post info on a good amp that will do it all.
11-09-2010, 03:59 PM
#107
10th Gear
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Thanks for this thread it shaved at least an hour off of my time. The one thing I would like to point out is. When running the power cable from your engine bay. Remove the gromet as stated in this thread. Drill a hole through the gromet and re-use it...Let me know if you need pics.
07-10-2011, 12:05 PM
#111
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Ok, now for the next installment of:
HOW TO SCREW UP PUTTING AN AMP, SPEAKER, and an AudioControl Matrix in your car!!!
LOL Just kidding.
Today we are going to document how to remove the stock amp, find all the OEM speaker wires from the head unit, make RCA’s onto the ends. Then we are going to show how to utilize the OEM run speaker wire to get to all the front speakers without running any new wires.
As a BONUS for BUYING in the next 12 min and 35 seconds we will throw in how to make custom tweeter mounts in the stock locations!!!
In the last installment we took pics of the stock amp and saw the RCA’s run to the front of the car.
Now let’s remove the stock amp. Now please be careful doing this and note that once you do this you are NOT going to have ANY music or sound from your speakers until you replace it with an after market amp.
Consider this the POINT OF NO RETURN!!!!!
Follow the link to a post by our great RON A, showing how to remove the glove box. This is needed because it adds a lot of room to work down there on the floor.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...9&postcount=14
Here are some pics of me removing mine:
Ok, once that is removed, place it aside. Now you should have a lot more room to work with.
When look at the stock amp you will find two bolts holding it on. One at the top and one on the bottom.
The one on bottom is in the middle. I believe that it is a 10mm socket size, but I am not positive.
Remove that bolt. Now the top bolt is a BIATCH!!!! Here is a pic of it:
Now I was NOT able to remove the bolt as the end you have to hook onto is facing the firewall of the car. So what I did was very scientific. I just moved it backwards and forwards until it was loose enough to fall off
Now that the stock amp is off the bolts….here is a pic of what you should see:
On the end with all the connections you should see too connectors:
Let’s define what you are seeing:
The 20 pin Grey connector is from the Head unit TO the Amp. These are the wires that you are going make into RCA ends.
The 14 pin Black connector is TO the factory speaker wires. These are the connections that you are going to use when tying in the rear left and right speakers INTO the front speakers, and the sub wires into the center channel.
Once you remove the amp from the car, you will notice this black plastic piece over the wire, you can remove it safely by just carefully cutting it off. It is just protecting the wires.
You will be left with:
Once you cut the ends off, this is what you have.
Now I suggest that you remove most of the electrical tape, about 5-6 inches, from those wires. Why you ask…. Because if you notice, you will see that the wires for each speaker (positive and negative) are WRAPPED together.
Now how NICE of ACURA to do this for us!!!!
Anyway it seems to make things be a little easier to find the corresponding wire for each speaker.
Now to see the specs of WHAT wire color is goes to what, please see this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=2&pp=25
That who first half of that page is VERY invaluable.
Once you LABEL each wire, which I suggest, you can cut off the ends.
Alrighty…got everything labeled correctly?? If not STOP and do it…if you screw this part up, you will just get very ticked later in the process
Now I went to radio shack and bought RCA ends that I can solder wire onto. There are two ways to do this.
The easiest way to so purchase some SHORT RCA cables and cut all four ends off. Then strip the wire. What you will find is this.
Some bare wire and another wire inside. The outside BARE wire is the Negative the inside covered wire is the positive wire. When stripping the inside wire, be careful, as it is VERY thin and you can rip those strands inside very easily.
Now take a speaker wire from the head unit and solder on the appropriate wires together. Negative to Negative / Positive to Positive. Now to answer some of your questions….
Can you use Butt Connectors instead of soldering….yes. Is it as good as soldering…no.
It is your choice.
Ok here is how I did it: (remember these are the wires from the 14 pin BLACK connector)
I connected the OEM LEFT REAR speaker wires to the OEM LEFT FRONT speaker wires
Then I did the OEM RIGHT REAR speaker wires to the OEM RIGHT FRONT speaker wires.
Next were the OEM SUB speaker wires to the OEM CENTER speaker wires.
Remember to match the positive and negatives together otherwise things will sound horrible!
Now once that is done, connect the RCA’s (the ones you ran to the trunk) from the first part of the DIY to the appropriate headunit wires:
Now, in the first parts of the DIY, I mentioned placing the Matrix in the kick panel where the stock amp was. Well after plugging in all the RCA’s I realized it won’t fit. So I am just placing it in the trunk.
So just use some couplers to connect the two male ends of the RCA’s together. The other ends of the RCA’s go to the trunk into the Matrix mounted there.
Now believe it not. We are mostly DONE!!!
Now back to the trunk for a few min. Don’t forget to extend the wires in the trunk for the rears and sub.
Now I suggest you follow the instructions from AudioControl for how to setup and hook up the Matrix.
Then follow your amp instructions for connecting the Matrix to the Amp.
Now some side notes.
I had some terrible engine noise and weird noises from the speakers after everything got installed. I tried some noise filters on both ends of the Matrix, and on the Amp…didn’t do any good. Then I thought of something. I then put the noise filters in between where the head unit RCA’s that we created and the Stinger RCA ends meet.
BINGO that solved the problem.
I used the PIE versions. They were $20 from my local shop. You will obviously need 3 of them.
People say grounding is the issue, etc. Well I re-grounded everything…nothing helped but these, so whatever…sounds SOOOOOOOOOO much better now.
I have not gotten my 7 channel amp amp so I don’t have all the channels up and running, but with a 4 channel amp, it sounds just as good as before. With the new 7 channel amp, it will be GREAT!!!
Now since you purchased within the first 12 min 35 seconds you get the tweeter tutorial for free. Please look for the tweeter post coming tonight.
Thanks for watching!!!
As always any comments. PLEASE speak up!!
HOW TO SCREW UP PUTTING AN AMP, SPEAKER, and an AudioControl Matrix in your car!!!
LOL Just kidding.
Today we are going to document how to remove the stock amp, find all the OEM speaker wires from the head unit, make RCA’s onto the ends. Then we are going to show how to utilize the OEM run speaker wire to get to all the front speakers without running any new wires.
As a BONUS for BUYING in the next 12 min and 35 seconds we will throw in how to make custom tweeter mounts in the stock locations!!!
In the last installment we took pics of the stock amp and saw the RCA’s run to the front of the car.
Now let’s remove the stock amp. Now please be careful doing this and note that once you do this you are NOT going to have ANY music or sound from your speakers until you replace it with an after market amp.
Consider this the POINT OF NO RETURN!!!!!
Follow the link to a post by our great RON A, showing how to remove the glove box. This is needed because it adds a lot of room to work down there on the floor.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...9&postcount=14
Here are some pics of me removing mine:
Ok, once that is removed, place it aside. Now you should have a lot more room to work with.
When look at the stock amp you will find two bolts holding it on. One at the top and one on the bottom.
The one on bottom is in the middle. I believe that it is a 10mm socket size, but I am not positive.
Remove that bolt. Now the top bolt is a BIATCH!!!! Here is a pic of it:
Now I was NOT able to remove the bolt as the end you have to hook onto is facing the firewall of the car. So what I did was very scientific. I just moved it backwards and forwards until it was loose enough to fall off
Now that the stock amp is off the bolts….here is a pic of what you should see:
On the end with all the connections you should see too connectors:
Let’s define what you are seeing:
The 20 pin Grey connector is from the Head unit TO the Amp. These are the wires that you are going make into RCA ends.
The 14 pin Black connector is TO the factory speaker wires. These are the connections that you are going to use when tying in the rear left and right speakers INTO the front speakers, and the sub wires into the center channel.
Once you remove the amp from the car, you will notice this black plastic piece over the wire, you can remove it safely by just carefully cutting it off. It is just protecting the wires.
You will be left with:
Once you cut the ends off, this is what you have.
Now I suggest that you remove most of the electrical tape, about 5-6 inches, from those wires. Why you ask…. Because if you notice, you will see that the wires for each speaker (positive and negative) are WRAPPED together.
Now how NICE of ACURA to do this for us!!!!
Anyway it seems to make things be a little easier to find the corresponding wire for each speaker.
Now to see the specs of WHAT wire color is goes to what, please see this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...7&page=2&pp=25
That who first half of that page is VERY invaluable.
Once you LABEL each wire, which I suggest, you can cut off the ends.
Alrighty…got everything labeled correctly?? If not STOP and do it…if you screw this part up, you will just get very ticked later in the process
Now I went to radio shack and bought RCA ends that I can solder wire onto. There are two ways to do this.
The easiest way to so purchase some SHORT RCA cables and cut all four ends off. Then strip the wire. What you will find is this.
Some bare wire and another wire inside. The outside BARE wire is the Negative the inside covered wire is the positive wire. When stripping the inside wire, be careful, as it is VERY thin and you can rip those strands inside very easily.
Now take a speaker wire from the head unit and solder on the appropriate wires together. Negative to Negative / Positive to Positive. Now to answer some of your questions….
Can you use Butt Connectors instead of soldering….yes. Is it as good as soldering…no.
It is your choice.
Ok here is how I did it: (remember these are the wires from the 14 pin BLACK connector)
I connected the OEM LEFT REAR speaker wires to the OEM LEFT FRONT speaker wires
Then I did the OEM RIGHT REAR speaker wires to the OEM RIGHT FRONT speaker wires.
Next were the OEM SUB speaker wires to the OEM CENTER speaker wires.
Remember to match the positive and negatives together otherwise things will sound horrible!
Now once that is done, connect the RCA’s (the ones you ran to the trunk) from the first part of the DIY to the appropriate headunit wires:
Now, in the first parts of the DIY, I mentioned placing the Matrix in the kick panel where the stock amp was. Well after plugging in all the RCA’s I realized it won’t fit. So I am just placing it in the trunk.
So just use some couplers to connect the two male ends of the RCA’s together. The other ends of the RCA’s go to the trunk into the Matrix mounted there.
Now believe it not. We are mostly DONE!!!
Now back to the trunk for a few min. Don’t forget to extend the wires in the trunk for the rears and sub.
Now I suggest you follow the instructions from AudioControl for how to setup and hook up the Matrix.
Then follow your amp instructions for connecting the Matrix to the Amp.
Now some side notes.
I had some terrible engine noise and weird noises from the speakers after everything got installed. I tried some noise filters on both ends of the Matrix, and on the Amp…didn’t do any good. Then I thought of something. I then put the noise filters in between where the head unit RCA’s that we created and the Stinger RCA ends meet.
BINGO that solved the problem.
I used the PIE versions. They were $20 from my local shop. You will obviously need 3 of them.
People say grounding is the issue, etc. Well I re-grounded everything…nothing helped but these, so whatever…sounds SOOOOOOOOOO much better now.
I have not gotten my 7 channel amp amp so I don’t have all the channels up and running, but with a 4 channel amp, it sounds just as good as before. With the new 7 channel amp, it will be GREAT!!!
Now since you purchased within the first 12 min 35 seconds you get the tweeter tutorial for free. Please look for the tweeter post coming tonight.
Thanks for watching!!!
As always any comments. PLEASE speak up!!
07-10-2011, 12:10 PM
#112
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jul 2011
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i was wondering if the matrix control booster was necessary to power into the aftermarket amp or not? because i have everything done except connecting the door speaker amp and i want to know if it absolutely necessary to have a power boost in between the HU and the aftermarket amp
03-04-2012, 06:58 PM
#113
I want to upgrade the four 6.5" speakers (front doors and rear deck) to Polk db651's which are 4 ohms. Needless to say, after that my sound system will be lacking power with just the stock amp. Could I keep my stock amp to power my 2 tweeters, center speaker, and stock sub and then get an additional 4 channel amp to power the 4 polk 6.5 speakers? Would i need to connect the aftermarket amp to the stock amp somehow? If so, how would i do this? Is there anything else i would need to do. I don't plan on undertaking this project myself. I will probably leave it to the experts, but i just want to make sure it can be done, and if there are any special instructions i need to tell the people that will be doing the install. As for bass, i will most likely be buying an Infinity Basslink, which is self-powered, so theres no need to get an amp for that. Any advice on this is appreciated.
03-06-2013, 03:00 PM
#116
Intermediate
Hey OP [Death]
If you still have the car or remember, how was the electrical system stress after the install? If you don't know what I mean, good because that is a good sign. My car in the past I had decked it out front to back [upgraded battery, alternator & wires, 6 speakers 6 tweeters 2 amps and 2 subs] and electrical issues began stressing the entire system out too much.
If you still have the car or remember, how was the electrical system stress after the install? If you don't know what I mean, good because that is a good sign. My car in the past I had decked it out front to back [upgraded battery, alternator & wires, 6 speakers 6 tweeters 2 amps and 2 subs] and electrical issues began stressing the entire system out too much.
03-06-2013, 06:00 PM
#117
Suzuka Master
6 tweeters! oh no.
dont think OP has been around since 07
plenty of people using large current drawing amps without any real issues. unless your trying to listen loud for a long period of time with the car off? then you may want to look at some deep cycle batteries.
dont think OP has been around since 07
plenty of people using large current drawing amps without any real issues. unless your trying to listen loud for a long period of time with the car off? then you may want to look at some deep cycle batteries.
03-07-2013, 10:30 AM
#118
Advanced
DO NOT GROUND YOUR AMP HERE!
The other wire on this bolt is the rear fuel pump ground! If you ground your amp to this bolt you run the risk of blowing out your fuel pump which costs a few hundred dollars to replace.
Other than that, this thread is awesome. I used the information from this thread to do my original install.
The other wire on this bolt is the rear fuel pump ground! If you ground your amp to this bolt you run the risk of blowing out your fuel pump which costs a few hundred dollars to replace.
Other than that, this thread is awesome. I used the information from this thread to do my original install.
The following 2 users liked this post by will1018:
big_mac65 (08-28-2014),
petroboy37ent (11-18-2015)
09-07-2013, 05:16 AM
#120
i don't understand why I need a 7 chnl amp if im installin 2 component alpines in door and 2 coaxial on rear deck and a sub? is the tweeter ran on a diff channel? if so is it ok if I run the component alpines in door usin alpines xover that comes with it so that I only have to use a 5 chnnl amp?