jtermi03

New to the website but love and appreciate all the info I've gotten from it!

I just bought a used 2006 TL and found out a little too late that the subwoofer is blown. I'm looking to buy a replacement subwoofer but know nothing in the field. Optimally, I would like to:

• Just add the subwoofer, no additional speakers
• Not have to add any control systems to the dash (to control the subwoofer primarily from the factory head unit
• Keep the subwoofer in the same space as the factory one on the rear deck (if this is unrealistic then I'm fine with putting it in the trunk
• Spend from $150-$200 from start to finish
• Not have an overwhelming or obnoxious level of bass coming from the car (keep it all for me!)
  
  All of the buying guides I've read tell me that I have to think about what type of enclosure I want, power, sensitivity, range, etc, but they don't really give any insight into what all those values translate into on the listening end of the stick.
  
  Anyone have some insight into what I should be looking for? The options are overwhelming

MarcoNorthPolo

It sounds to me like your best option is to just replace the sub with a new one from your dealer. When it comes to aftermarket subs for the TL there are not many that are 2ohm and free air, like the oem sub is. The search button is your friend on this site, be sure to use it. There are many many threads about subwoofers on here, you just have to do some reading.

Many people here on the forums advise against putting an aftermarket sub in the stock location because the rear deck in the TL vibrates like a mofo. Some people have done it successfully but for the most part, not without putting lots of sound deadener all over the rear deck to quell the vibrations. That costs a bit though.

Check the black market, sometimes people sell their old speakers so you might get lucky.

jtermi03

That's an interesting fact, I missed that in my searches through the website. But I definitely don't want to have to deal with rattle. A friend suggested that I get a powered sub, is there an advantage, price or otherwise, to getting the sub and the amp separate?

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

it all comes down to fit... i dont think there is any powered sub that fits into the OEM opening... there are very few drop ins with no modification

i would say error on the side of factory sub... put a WTB: on the black market... thre are more than a few people who went custom with their subs

now I have a JL in mine.. and I love it... just know when you go aftermarket it is always more work than you think

Gil'sUA5

A sub in the trunk with a seperate amp is the easiest thing to do and it will give you much better sound than the stock sub since you are adding an amp. You can do all of this for under $300

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

^this

I hate cars

Agreed.

When looking for a sub, generally speaking bigger is better for sound quality and for output. Enclosure has the biggest effect on how it will sound. Ported will drive up the efficiency and sound just as good as a good sealed box if designed right. It will have to be a little larger than sealed but you get quite a bit of free output.

Sealed would be my last choice, it has the lowest efficiency requiring a larger amplifier and you have all of the downsides associated with lots of power. If you to sealed, look at the manufacturers recommended enclosure size as the minimum amount of airspace you can get away with. Usually, a smaller sealed box results in slow, boomy bass. A larger box gives that tight quick feeling while getting low. This is best for SQ and efficiency on the low end rises with a larger box.

Then you have infinite baffle. No box, just the subs mounted to a baffle behind the rear seats. I have a pair of 15s in this configuration and instill have 90% of my trunk left and added just over 40lbs including both subs and the wood. This setup has it all, good efficiency on the low end (not as good as ported) great sound quality with amazing punch and quickness and detail and will dig very deep with ease. Mine is a sound quality setup, that's why I went with two large subs so excursion is practically non existstant, reducing distortion. Even with it being sound quality oriented, even the bass heads that have been in it have been impressed with how low it goes and overall output. There's a ton of low frequency content in some songs you never knew was there until you have a system that will play that low.

Also, if you go with larger subs many times you can use a cheaper sub since it won't require as much excursion. I would focus on the enclosure type first, you don't have to spend a fortune on subs for good sound. Mine were $333 shipped to my door brand new for the pair. With that said, my favorite sub is the Dyn Esotar 1200 and the 13W7 which I might be buying a pair of soon. Remember that sub output is dependent on how you set the level. There's no worries of the bass being too loud even if you had 4 18" subs as long as you adjust the level correctly.