Change the subwoofer to a better?

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Old 08-06-2013, 03:12 AM
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Change the subwoofer to a better?

It is possible!
What are the best sound system for the TL
Old 08-06-2013, 11:06 AM
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The sense I'm getting around here is JL is pretty good. :P
This is such a broad question Meacura. What do you want to do, replace the stock sub for something better in the same location?
Make sure it is a shallow mount 8" 2ohm sub. You will also have to do something to keep the rear deck from rattling (ie: dynamat or other sound dampening.)
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:05 PM
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Is it possible? There are hundreds of us that have done it. Search around this section and find a setup you like.
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Old 08-06-2013, 06:36 PM
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Thanks
I will watching
Old 08-06-2013, 08:10 PM
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I replaced the stock sub with a JL ZR800-CW driven by an XD300/1 amp. I also used Dynamat to cover the entire rear seat section and rear lid - there's still a rattle that drives me crazy! But there's no mistaking the quality of the bass now.
Old 08-06-2013, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Meacura86
Thanks
I will watching
Do you have a brand in mind? Are you wanting to use the stock amp or an aftermarket?
Old 08-06-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dingo
I replaced the stock sub with a JL ZR800-CW driven by an XD300/1 amp. I also used Dynamat to cover the entire rear seat section and rear lid - there's still a rattle that drives me crazy! But there's no mistaking the quality of the bass now.
That's a midbass, not a subwoofer. What made you go with that driver?
Old 08-06-2013, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That's a midbass, not a subwoofer. What made you go with that driver?
A couple of factors, most important being I wanted the interior rear deck lid and trunk deck lid cover to look completely stock. I looked for a direct replacement in size and that's what I seemed to find at the time. I should add that I got them at wholesale cost from a dealer friend of mine - cost about $325 for the driver and amp.
Old 08-06-2013, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
That's a midbass, not a subwoofer. What made you go with that driver?

the size of the hole most likely
imagine how many tweeters one can pack into the same opening
Old 08-06-2013, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Dingo
A couple of factors, most important being I wanted the interior rear deck lid and trunk deck lid cover to look completely stock. I looked for a direct replacement in size and that's what I seemed to find at the time. I should add that I got them at wholesale cost from a dealer friend of mine - cost about $325 for the driver and amp.
there're 8" subs out there that fit
it seems it wasn't that great of a price either ...

for your rattle:

the 3 usual suspects are the top break light cover bouncing against the glass (double tape), the middle seat belt tensioner (take out completely unless you evr have 3 people riding in the back, then just grease up the isides), and the trunk springs (the long metal rods under the deck, cover them with more butyl sheets), that is of course assuming that you've secured all electrical harnesses while you were doing the install (side airbags plugs, any wires running to the trunk lid etc.)
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:14 PM
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The price I mentioned was from about 3.5 years ago - thanks for the tips on fixing the squeak, I'll look into the springs.
Old 08-07-2013, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Dingo
The price I mentioned was from about 3.5 years ago - thanks for the tips on fixing the squeak, I'll look into the springs.
and for what you got it was a good price, i just meant to say that an amp and a sub could have been bought for less

by the way, the stock sub produces measurable SPL at 20Hz, your woofer is only rated down to 50Hz

it may be able to play lower than 50, but, strictly speaking, you'll be pushing it past the specs, which may lead to a shorter life expectancy, unless you set the subsonic to over 50, in which case you'll be cutting out the lows

seeing how it served you for over 3 years now, you've probably done it right
Old 08-07-2013, 09:32 AM
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The most distortion is near Fs. He's going to be right near Fs with most music.
Old 08-07-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MarcoNorthPolo
Do you have a brand in mind? Are you wanting to use the stock amp or an aftermarket?
I must looking. What is possible in Germany
Old 08-07-2013, 11:52 AM
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I don't know what is available in Germany, the only brand I know of is Blaupunkt, but I don't know what the quality is like anymore. Home audio I know of Surrountec and Lansche, but they are pretty high end and I don't think they make anything automotive.
Old 08-07-2013, 12:32 PM
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there're international brands as well, that make great components, like the entire harman family of brands or morel
Old 08-08-2013, 10:29 AM
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Can I simple Change the boxes or I need extra cable!
Old 08-08-2013, 12:58 PM
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no, you cannot
and once you start taking it apart, you'll see why
there's no extra room anywhere other than the trunk

i was able to fit a very compact mono amp in the stock amp spot, but that's all you can count on

putting things under the seats means your passengers in the back will have no foot room, and even then the space under the seats is very limited
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:25 AM
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I've got a JL HD600/4 under each front seat and a 1200/1 in the trunk behind the stock carpeting completely hidden. The HD amps fit under the seat and take up no rear seat foot space. I believe they're only 6" wide. 1200 watts of power under the front seats.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:27 AM
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JL 700/5 under drivers seat crossovers and room for processor under passenger seat here
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pohljm
JL 700/5 under drivers seat crossovers and room for processor under passenger seat here
Are you happy with the XD amp? I'm seriously considering running a pair 1000/1 XDs when I switch to a pair of 13W7s IB.
Old 08-09-2013, 02:53 PM
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I have absolutely no complaints. Not running a line driver and still at volume 1 it is just a hair too loud for background music with passengers. should drop the gain a bit but its set correctly.
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
The most distortion is near Fs. He's going to be right near Fs with most music.
Can you explain how this impacts normal listening levels with the amp freq cutoff set to roughly 52Hz?
Old 08-18-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dingo
Can you explain how this impacts normal listening levels with the amp freq cutoff set to roughly 52Hz?
It gets you farther from Fs but there will still be some material getting to the sub that's lower than its Fs.

The question I have is why would you limit yourself to 52hz, you're barely into sub bass. My midbasses in the doors play that low with authority. You're missing a lot by cutting them off so high, there's a lot of content below 50hz. All that ZR is going to do is add some punch but no real sub bass.

I play my subs down to Fs which is 20hz but it doesn't happen often and it's less noticeable the lower the frequency. I'm not saying what you did was bad but a small sub probably would've worked better.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:35 AM
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Understood. My system is completely stock other than the added amp for the midbass driver that replaced the stock sub, so comparing them to your drivers is like comparing apples and kiwis. Back in 2009 when the original sub went, that's what I came up with without much time spent on it. What sub do you recommend that is a direct size replacement that doesn't necessitate any modification to the rear deck lid and cover or trunk cover?
Old 08-19-2013, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Dingo
Understood. My system is completely stock other than the added amp for the midbass driver that replaced the stock sub, so comparing them to your drivers is like comparing apples and kiwis. Back in 2009 when the original sub went, that's what I came up with without much time spent on it. What sub do you recommend that is a direct size replacement that doesn't necessitate any modification to the rear deck lid and cover or trunk cover?
I have no idea. I've seen a couple used over the years but I can't remember the brands. If you're happy with what you have, there's no reason to change it. That's a great speaker. I almost went with a pair but I lucked out and found a great deal on my Dyn 9" midbass right as I was about to get the JLs.

If you run it below Fs and can't hear distortion, does it really matter if its there? One thing I'm slowly learning is distortion as long as its not audible is not as important as linear distortion; frequency response. I used to run my crossovers based on my speakers distortion level either based on the Klippel results or factory data. I had them all in the .3% or less range but they didnt sound good with those crossover points.

One question, are you running a highpass filter on the 8"? If it sounds good playing all the way down and it can do so without running out of excursion, I would go for it.

One last thing, I was told by Andy W, formerly of JBL and one of the most knowledgeable people on the planet that the speaker will have more midbass punch the farther you get from Fs. I tried it with my midbass, (Fs=40hz) moving them from 35hz to 90hz and everything in between and it seems to be true, at least in my setup. For an 8" in free air, using a 50hz highpass is not a bad idea, it probably has a lot of punch.
Old 08-19-2013, 03:49 PM
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Quite honestly, the only thing I'm not too happy with after adding the JL are the stock drivers!!! They suck and can't keep up. The punch from the JL is insane, so much so the gain on the amp is barely at 10% - with the adjustment in the head unit zeroed for both sub and bass. I really need to replace the door and rear drivers! A project for next year after the move...

the JL is wired from the speaker level connection of the original sub - into a line level converter to the new amp. Whatever freq the head unit cuts off the sub feed at, is how it is... would you happen to know?

Last edited by Dingo; 08-19-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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