Change the subwoofer to a better?
#1
Change the subwoofer to a better?
It is possible!
What are the best sound system for the TL
What are the best sound system for the TL
#2
KCCO
The sense I'm getting around here is JL is pretty good. :P
This is such a broad question Meacura. What do you want to do, replace the stock sub for something better in the same location?
Make sure it is a shallow mount 8" 2ohm sub. You will also have to do something to keep the rear deck from rattling (ie: dynamat or other sound dampening.)
This is such a broad question Meacura. What do you want to do, replace the stock sub for something better in the same location?
Make sure it is a shallow mount 8" 2ohm sub. You will also have to do something to keep the rear deck from rattling (ie: dynamat or other sound dampening.)
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-07-2013)
#3
Team Owner
Is it possible? There are hundreds of us that have done it. Search around this section and find a setup you like.
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-07-2013)
#4
Thanks
I will watching
I will watching
#5
Intermediate
I replaced the stock sub with a JL ZR800-CW driven by an XD300/1 amp. I also used Dynamat to cover the entire rear seat section and rear lid - there's still a rattle that drives me crazy! But there's no mistaking the quality of the bass now.
#7
Team Owner
That's a midbass, not a subwoofer. What made you go with that driver?
Trending Topics
#8
Intermediate
A couple of factors, most important being I wanted the interior rear deck lid and trunk deck lid cover to look completely stock. I looked for a direct replacement in size and that's what I seemed to find at the time. I should add that I got them at wholesale cost from a dealer friend of mine - cost about $325 for the driver and amp.
#9
Racer
#10
Racer
A couple of factors, most important being I wanted the interior rear deck lid and trunk deck lid cover to look completely stock. I looked for a direct replacement in size and that's what I seemed to find at the time. I should add that I got them at wholesale cost from a dealer friend of mine - cost about $325 for the driver and amp.
it seems it wasn't that great of a price either ...
for your rattle:
the 3 usual suspects are the top break light cover bouncing against the glass (double tape), the middle seat belt tensioner (take out completely unless you evr have 3 people riding in the back, then just grease up the isides), and the trunk springs (the long metal rods under the deck, cover them with more butyl sheets), that is of course assuming that you've secured all electrical harnesses while you were doing the install (side airbags plugs, any wires running to the trunk lid etc.)
The following users liked this post:
Anthracite'04 (12-21-2014)
#12
Racer
by the way, the stock sub produces measurable SPL at 20Hz, your woofer is only rated down to 50Hz
it may be able to play lower than 50, but, strictly speaking, you'll be pushing it past the specs, which may lead to a shorter life expectancy, unless you set the subsonic to over 50, in which case you'll be cutting out the lows
seeing how it served you for over 3 years now, you've probably done it right
#13
Team Owner
The most distortion is near Fs. He's going to be right near Fs with most music.
#14
#15
KCCO
I don't know what is available in Germany, the only brand I know of is Blaupunkt, but I don't know what the quality is like anymore. Home audio I know of Surrountec and Lansche, but they are pretty high end and I don't think they make anything automotive.
#17
Can I simple Change the boxes or I need extra cable!
#18
Racer
no, you cannot
and once you start taking it apart, you'll see why
there's no extra room anywhere other than the trunk
i was able to fit a very compact mono amp in the stock amp spot, but that's all you can count on
putting things under the seats means your passengers in the back will have no foot room, and even then the space under the seats is very limited
and once you start taking it apart, you'll see why
there's no extra room anywhere other than the trunk
i was able to fit a very compact mono amp in the stock amp spot, but that's all you can count on
putting things under the seats means your passengers in the back will have no foot room, and even then the space under the seats is very limited
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-09-2013)
#19
Team Owner
I've got a JL HD600/4 under each front seat and a 1200/1 in the trunk behind the stock carpeting completely hidden. The HD amps fit under the seat and take up no rear seat foot space. I believe they're only 6" wide. 1200 watts of power under the front seats.
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-09-2013)
#20
Suzuka Master
JL 700/5 under drivers seat crossovers and room for processor under passenger seat here
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-09-2013)
#21
Team Owner
#22
Suzuka Master
I have absolutely no complaints. Not running a line driver and still at volume 1 it is just a hair too loud for background music with passengers. should drop the gain a bit but its set correctly.
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-10-2013)
#23
Intermediate
#24
Team Owner
The question I have is why would you limit yourself to 52hz, you're barely into sub bass. My midbasses in the doors play that low with authority. You're missing a lot by cutting them off so high, there's a lot of content below 50hz. All that ZR is going to do is add some punch but no real sub bass.
I play my subs down to Fs which is 20hz but it doesn't happen often and it's less noticeable the lower the frequency. I'm not saying what you did was bad but a small sub probably would've worked better.
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-19-2013)
#25
Intermediate
Understood. My system is completely stock other than the added amp for the midbass driver that replaced the stock sub, so comparing them to your drivers is like comparing apples and kiwis. Back in 2009 when the original sub went, that's what I came up with without much time spent on it. What sub do you recommend that is a direct size replacement that doesn't necessitate any modification to the rear deck lid and cover or trunk cover?
#26
Team Owner
Understood. My system is completely stock other than the added amp for the midbass driver that replaced the stock sub, so comparing them to your drivers is like comparing apples and kiwis. Back in 2009 when the original sub went, that's what I came up with without much time spent on it. What sub do you recommend that is a direct size replacement that doesn't necessitate any modification to the rear deck lid and cover or trunk cover?
If you run it below Fs and can't hear distortion, does it really matter if its there? One thing I'm slowly learning is distortion as long as its not audible is not as important as linear distortion; frequency response. I used to run my crossovers based on my speakers distortion level either based on the Klippel results or factory data. I had them all in the .3% or less range but they didnt sound good with those crossover points.
One question, are you running a highpass filter on the 8"? If it sounds good playing all the way down and it can do so without running out of excursion, I would go for it.
One last thing, I was told by Andy W, formerly of JBL and one of the most knowledgeable people on the planet that the speaker will have more midbass punch the farther you get from Fs. I tried it with my midbass, (Fs=40hz) moving them from 35hz to 90hz and everything in between and it seems to be true, at least in my setup. For an 8" in free air, using a 50hz highpass is not a bad idea, it probably has a lot of punch.
#27
Intermediate
Quite honestly, the only thing I'm not too happy with after adding the JL are the stock drivers!!! They suck and can't keep up. The punch from the JL is insane, so much so the gain on the amp is barely at 10% - with the adjustment in the head unit zeroed for both sub and bass. I really need to replace the door and rear drivers! A project for next year after the move...
the JL is wired from the speaker level connection of the original sub - into a line level converter to the new amp. Whatever freq the head unit cuts off the sub feed at, is how it is... would you happen to know?
the JL is wired from the speaker level connection of the original sub - into a line level converter to the new amp. Whatever freq the head unit cuts off the sub feed at, is how it is... would you happen to know?
Last edited by Dingo; 08-19-2013 at 03:54 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Meacura86 (08-20-2013)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AndrewS
Audio, Video, Electronics & Navigation
19
03-14-2024 06:59 PM
BoricuaTL
Car Parts for Sale
138
04-08-2016 01:08 PM
3GTLOwns
3G TL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
1
09-09-2015 09:51 PM