kingba45

I have 08 TL with Navi and would like to upgrade system starting with subs. I will install two Dayton IB subs in Infinite Baffle (IB). Here are the specs for each;

Power handling: 350 watts RMS/600 watts max * VCdia: 2" * Le: 3.08 mH * Impedance: 8 ohm * Re: 5.2 ohms * Frequency range: 20-500 Hz * Magnet weight: 90 oz. * Fs: 22 Hz * SPL: 88.2 dB 1W/1m * Vas: 8.79 cu. ft. * Qms: 8.92 * Qes: .63 * Qts: .59 * Xmax: 14.3 mm * Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 15-1/8", Cutout Diameter: 13-7/8", Mounting Depth: 7-3/8", Magnet Diameter: 6-1/2".

I will also install Massive Audio RK6 Components. Here are the specs.
Sensitivity: 90 dB
Power Range : 50-250 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 500 Watts
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Frequency response: 65-2000

My question is which amp or amps should i get? I hope this is enough info
P.S. Should I do the big 3?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Big 3: Yes if you can...

Budget??

kingba45

^ oh yes, sorry about that. I would obviously like to spend the least possible. So how about no more than $1000 for the Amp(s).

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

ZED...Levianthan II

eggyhustles

Sundown 100.4 for the rk6's

RBeachTL

Running the speakers active or passive?

Keeping the center and or rears?

Just trying to determine how many channels you are going to need.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Personally, I would suggest buying a processor also. That way you can run active for those RK6's (they'll need it). You'll have to run something like this anyways if you don't pick up and amp that has balanced inputs.

I'll just assume you'll run the center and rears off the stock amp. Correct? So a nice 4-channel should do ya

jda123

I don't think that you will like the RK6 on the crossover that comes with them. They really put too much to the tweeter and not enough to the misbass. The crossover is not adjustable.

I would run them on separate channels with a MB Quart Q4.150, use the bandpass, drop 150W to the midbass and keep the tweeters with lower wattage. If you are going to use the crossover, then the Sundown 100.4 suggested above is very nice.

For the subs, I would just get a 600 to 800 watt D class amp like a Soundsteam Rubicon RUB1.800D or RUB1.1000D.

eggyhustles

Actually, the sundown would be perfect for active since it has a pretty nice crossover system on it


if u can fit the 200.4, even better.
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9683-sax...amplifier.aspx

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

^ sexy

jda123

I was more concerned with the extra 50 watts that the Q4.150 had to throw at the midbass. Does the sundown offer a bandpass on there - I don't see it, but that doesn't mean anything.

eggyhustles

Yup. the "sub sonic" is an always active HPF adjustable from 10 Hz - 500 Hz that can be used as the HPF part of the band-pass. Then you have selectable 50 - 5000 Hz 12dB / 24dB HPF and LPF available on both pairs of channels.

Specs on the 200.4
200 x 4 @ 4 ohms
320 x 4 @ 2 ohms
640 x 2 @ 4 ohms bridged
400 x 4 @ 1 ohm
800 x 2 @ 2 ohms
Damping Factor > 200 @ 4 Ohms
0.2v - 6v adjustable input sensitivity
10 Hz - 40,000 Hz Frequency Response
Channel Separations: 75 dB
> 90 dB S/N Ratio
4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)
Selectable HP / LP / FULL crossover
CH 1 & 2 Variable HP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 1 & 2 Variable LP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable HP crossover 50 - 500 Hz @ 12 dB
CH 3 & 4 Variable LP crossover 50 - 5000 Hz @ 12 dB
10 Hz - 500 Hz variable subsonic filter (CH 1&2 and CH 3&4)
Subsonic filter allows for band-passed crossover configuration
0 - 18 dB adjustable bass boost
35 - 120 Hz Variable Bass Boost Center Frequency

These amps are underrated, too...so it probably does around 220ish x 4. Also stable to 1 ohm mono / 2 ohms bridged




As u can see, it's very very large

jda123

That is awesome.

It should be a worldwide law that every 4 channel amp has band pass capability.

I hate cars

X2. I love this thing. I haven't seen anything else with the flexability and bandpassability on all 6 channels with 150w at 4ohms on all 6 channels. 300wx6 at 2 ohm and 600w bridged. It's also the most efficient amp on the market. IMO it's the perfect amp.

I honestly don't think the big 3 are necessary, especially considering you probably won't push more than 300w to each IB sub. I have more power going to my components than to my IB subs.

Are those Daytons IB specific? The only reason I ask is to determine if those power ratings are thermal or mechanical.

I hate cars

I found this for your sub. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...tml#post106689



Looks like people love it in IB. Maximum power handling is 150w in that configuration which is awesome. 14.3mm xmax should be plenty with the pair of 15s. I tried to find the xmech which can be important in IB but no luck. By the time you hit xmax with these things, they're going to be so loud that you probably won't notice the additional distortion after xmax. It would be nice to see how much air they're capable of moving before damaging themselves. One more thing, they might not play up super high with an Le of 3.08mh. This might be a 65hz and under sub.