Aftermarket Subwoofer question
#1
Aftermarket Subwoofer question
So. I decided to go with the custom box that seems to be popular here. 10" that sits flushed in the the trunk of the driver's side rear quarter panel. I have read many posts stating to tap into the stock subwoofer with a LOC. But haven't read about removing the stock sub or to just keep it sitting there not doing anything. One thing I worry is rattle. I have read of people putting cloth and other material there. But I would like to maximize the projection of the sound of the aftermarket woofer to the cabin. People with experience that have aftermarket subwoofer with the stock subwoofer there and ones that have removed the stock subwoofer's feedback of sound quality would be appreciated.Thanks.
Last edited by TouringXLuxury; 06-05-2013 at 12:59 AM. Reason: Typo
#2
Team Owner
You can't take the signal from the stock sub and run the stock sub at the same time. It won't work. You don't want two very different subs in different locations playing the same frequencies at the same time. Disconnect and remove the stock sub if you're running an aftermarket sub.
Make sure that enclosure you're buying has the correct airspace for whatever sub you're using. The owner would not give out airspace of the sealed boxes or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. Some of the sealed boxes were on the small side which will cause the slow, sloppy, boomy type of bass.
Make sure that enclosure you're buying has the correct airspace for whatever sub you're using. The owner would not give out airspace of the sealed boxes or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. Some of the sealed boxes were on the small side which will cause the slow, sloppy, boomy type of bass.
#3
IHC exactly the answer I was looking for. I was thinking of disconnecting stock sub and to connect to the amp that feeds to the aftermarket sub. But didn't know if I should keep the dead stock sub still in place.
The box I have bought is designed over JL sub but I got an excellent price on a new fosgate sub and amp. I am really hoping it sounds good with the specs. Worst case I can just change out to a JL sub if needed and sell the one I have.
Thanks for the insighful information and the many other fruitful posts you have enlightened other members and myself included.
Once I get installed the navtool, DVD player in rear armrest, headrest monitors, dynomat, sub, amp, and CAP. I will provide some pictures and update.
I am a little amazed, I come from the CLUBLEXUS world many people are quite supportive and answer questions pretty quickly. This is only like my second thread but not much feedback, I do understand it is a different audience.
The box I have bought is designed over JL sub but I got an excellent price on a new fosgate sub and amp. I am really hoping it sounds good with the specs. Worst case I can just change out to a JL sub if needed and sell the one I have.
Thanks for the insighful information and the many other fruitful posts you have enlightened other members and myself included.
Once I get installed the navtool, DVD player in rear armrest, headrest monitors, dynomat, sub, amp, and CAP. I will provide some pictures and update.
I am a little amazed, I come from the CLUBLEXUS world many people are quite supportive and answer questions pretty quickly. This is only like my second thread but not much feedback, I do understand it is a different audience.
#4
Suzuka Master
your question was basic and was answered completely within 1.5 hours. not sure why your amazed there was nothing else to add.
#6
KCCO
So does my butt...
Seriously though, do a search to find fixes to your problem.
Here's something to get you started.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rear-deck-bass-rattle-fix-%5Bpics-video%5D-614680/
Seriously though, do a search to find fixes to your problem.
Here's something to get you started.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rear-deck-bass-rattle-fix-%5Bpics-video%5D-614680/
The following users liked this post:
whoismiked (07-18-2013)
#7
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Thoughts?
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#9
Racer
You can't take the signal from the stock sub and run the stock sub at the same time. It won't work. You don't want two very different subs in different locations playing the same frequencies at the same time. Disconnect and remove the stock sub if you're running an aftermarket sub.
Make sure that enclosure you're buying has the correct airspace for whatever sub you're using. The owner would not give out airspace of the sealed boxes or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. Some of the sealed boxes were on the small side which will cause the slow, sloppy, boomy type of bass.
Make sure that enclosure you're buying has the correct airspace for whatever sub you're using. The owner would not give out airspace of the sealed boxes or tuning frequency of the ported boxes. Some of the sealed boxes were on the small side which will cause the slow, sloppy, boomy type of bass.
#10
Suzuka Master
^^ retards your lucky thats the only thing that blew.
#11
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
The shop that installed my sub years ago somehow got the signal from the stock sub for the aftermarket sub but kept the factory sub working. I liked it because I could control the aftermarket sub volume through the radio. However, I must have recently blown the stock sub so it sounds like crap. I never used to turn the sub volume up but I recently did. Anyway I can have the factory sub disconnected and nit effect the JL 12w3?
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