Adding Bluetooth Streaming to a Canadian 2004 Acura TL (Non-Nav)
Adding Bluetooth Streaming to a Canadian 2004 Acura TL (Non-Nav)
Hello everyone. I was getting fed up with having to make DVD-A Audio discs, but I also did not want to add another unit like Grom, or iSimple as I don't have any Apple devices that I would use in the car. Also, I would not get the added benefit that some of them would by showing the song information on the display as I do not have the navigation model. So I figured I would make a short thread of what I purchased and how I did everything in order to help guide others who may be in the same boat.
First off, the thread that inspired me to do this was the one by Justin Chan, titled 'Add aux input to 2005 TL (Canada)': https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...canada-963095/
Using information found in that thread and other threads across the forum, I decided this shouldn't be too difficult to tackle.
I ordered the following items for this project. (All Prices in CAD)
- Generic 3.5mm Female to Female Audio Adapter Connector (from eBay.ca) - About $1.00
- Generic USB 2.0 A Male To 2 Dual Female Jack Y Splitter (from eBay.ca) - About $1.25
- APPS2Car branded [New Generation] Car Stereo AUX Input Adapter with a USB Port for Charging (from Amazon.ca) - About $35.00
- Besign BK01 Bluetooth 4.1 Car Kit Hands-Free & Music Streaming Receiver with Dual Port USB Car Charger and Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car (from Amazon.ca) - About $30.00 (that includes the Ground Loop Isolator and DC Car Plug)
I am aware there are cheaper options for the Aux Input Adapter and the Bluetooth Streaming Receiver. However, I wanted to ensure that I ordered an Aux Adapter that had a filtering box (not sure exactly what it's called, but it's the box that the wires run through) with it and also had a built in USB port, and with regards to the Bluetooth, the one I ordered was cheaper when you factored in ordering a separate ground loop isolator to the wiring as other ones do not seem to come with it.
Another thing that is a must buy is a 'Car Door Trim Removal Pry Tool' (Ideally a set of a few pieces), as most things are held with plugs and retaining clips, which you don't want to break.
Lastly, before I start with the details. NO YOU WILL NOT be able to use Steering Wheel Controls for the previous and next track function. That is the whole point of getting a Bluetooth receiver instead of one of those tiny modules that plug into the AUX port that will allow for Bluetooth streaming but do not have any buttons or controls on them. Also with the Bluetooth Receiver, you can use it to prompt you for voice commands on your phone and other things of that nature.
I won't write up about taking apart the dash here as it's been covered many times. The video I used was the video posted by Grom on Youtube:
. This video provides more than enough detail.
Once everything was apart, getting the connector behind the radio in was a little bit of work, but by using an extending mirror I was able to see the plug slot and from there it was easy to install. I ended up running the Aux Adapter wiring to the lower kick panel just above the pedals and zip tied it there. There is a hole coming out from the radio area, just behind the panels once they're all on, and that way you don't have to do any drilling into the dash at all.
On the 3.5mm male audio side of the adapter, I added the 3.5mm female to female adapter so I could connect the Bluetooth unit to it. On the USB Side, I added the 1 Male to 2 Female USB Splitter adapter to it. This way I could use one port to power the Bluetooth receiver, instead of busying up my DC Plug outlet. It would also save me from running the wiring to the front of the radio area. The second USB port on the splitter I used to plug in a USB Cable so I could charge my phone, once again without busying up the radio area or outlet. I have a CD Slot Car Mount, so I tucked the wiring into the dash running along the left side of the radio (to the right of your legs) where the dash meets the carpet and brought it up from there. That way it wouldn't get caught or tangled in anything.
From there I ended up hiding most of the wiring on the lower kick panel. I ran the wiring for the Bluetooth receiver and up out next to the steering column so I didn't make any holes, but also kept most of the wiring hidden. I ended up sticking the Bluetooth Receiver just below the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. It needed a flat area for it to stick nicely, and the rest of the dash area is either connecting between panels, or has curves. The Bluetooth receiver plugged into the ground loop isolator, which I then plugged into the 3.5mm female side of the adapter. Once I ensured it all worked, I used zip ties and tidied up the wiring all on the lower kick panel area resulting in the majority of wiring behind hidden.
My opinion on the quality of sound is that the Ground Loop Isolator does reduce the quality of sound slightly, but by using a Sound Equalizer on my phone, I can more than make up for this loss. Turning up the volume on my phone to about 3/4 of full, the volume has to be turned up slightly more on the radio in comparison to the AM/FM channels. I didn't test the Bluetooth receiver without the ground loop, but I went for a quick drive and did not have any feedback from the engine or anything else.
Something that was of interest, since I'm using the CD Changer slot in the radio to power the Bluetooth Receiver, I am seeing that it is always receiving power, even when the car is turned off and no keys in the ignition. That means I can also charge my phone with no key in the ignition. I don't think this will be an issue, but I am going to have to keep an eye on if this causes any excess drain to the battery. I am assuming the power is always live because the radio is always receiving power with the anti-theft security, so using this wiring method, I have to manually turn the receiver on and off. It isn't a big deal as I only have to hold the Main button on the receiver for a few seconds each time. I wanted to use this instead of wiring it through the DC outlet for two reasons: 1) Free up the DC Port for a GPS or something else, and 2) I didn't want the unit to receive power when I put the Key to ON, and then cut power when I went to start the car, and then receive power again once the vehicle is started. I feel like that would cause issues with the Receiver in the long term with the short power cycles.
Overall, I am happy with the install and the result, but I only installed everything today, so I'll know better in a few weeks once I am able to test everything a little more thoroughly.
First off, the thread that inspired me to do this was the one by Justin Chan, titled 'Add aux input to 2005 TL (Canada)': https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...canada-963095/
Using information found in that thread and other threads across the forum, I decided this shouldn't be too difficult to tackle.
I ordered the following items for this project. (All Prices in CAD)
- Generic 3.5mm Female to Female Audio Adapter Connector (from eBay.ca) - About $1.00
- Generic USB 2.0 A Male To 2 Dual Female Jack Y Splitter (from eBay.ca) - About $1.25
- APPS2Car branded [New Generation] Car Stereo AUX Input Adapter with a USB Port for Charging (from Amazon.ca) - About $35.00
- Besign BK01 Bluetooth 4.1 Car Kit Hands-Free & Music Streaming Receiver with Dual Port USB Car Charger and Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car (from Amazon.ca) - About $30.00 (that includes the Ground Loop Isolator and DC Car Plug)
I am aware there are cheaper options for the Aux Input Adapter and the Bluetooth Streaming Receiver. However, I wanted to ensure that I ordered an Aux Adapter that had a filtering box (not sure exactly what it's called, but it's the box that the wires run through) with it and also had a built in USB port, and with regards to the Bluetooth, the one I ordered was cheaper when you factored in ordering a separate ground loop isolator to the wiring as other ones do not seem to come with it.
Another thing that is a must buy is a 'Car Door Trim Removal Pry Tool' (Ideally a set of a few pieces), as most things are held with plugs and retaining clips, which you don't want to break.
Lastly, before I start with the details. NO YOU WILL NOT be able to use Steering Wheel Controls for the previous and next track function. That is the whole point of getting a Bluetooth receiver instead of one of those tiny modules that plug into the AUX port that will allow for Bluetooth streaming but do not have any buttons or controls on them. Also with the Bluetooth Receiver, you can use it to prompt you for voice commands on your phone and other things of that nature.
I won't write up about taking apart the dash here as it's been covered many times. The video I used was the video posted by Grom on Youtube:
Once everything was apart, getting the connector behind the radio in was a little bit of work, but by using an extending mirror I was able to see the plug slot and from there it was easy to install. I ended up running the Aux Adapter wiring to the lower kick panel just above the pedals and zip tied it there. There is a hole coming out from the radio area, just behind the panels once they're all on, and that way you don't have to do any drilling into the dash at all.
On the 3.5mm male audio side of the adapter, I added the 3.5mm female to female adapter so I could connect the Bluetooth unit to it. On the USB Side, I added the 1 Male to 2 Female USB Splitter adapter to it. This way I could use one port to power the Bluetooth receiver, instead of busying up my DC Plug outlet. It would also save me from running the wiring to the front of the radio area. The second USB port on the splitter I used to plug in a USB Cable so I could charge my phone, once again without busying up the radio area or outlet. I have a CD Slot Car Mount, so I tucked the wiring into the dash running along the left side of the radio (to the right of your legs) where the dash meets the carpet and brought it up from there. That way it wouldn't get caught or tangled in anything.
From there I ended up hiding most of the wiring on the lower kick panel. I ran the wiring for the Bluetooth receiver and up out next to the steering column so I didn't make any holes, but also kept most of the wiring hidden. I ended up sticking the Bluetooth Receiver just below the vent on the left side of the steering wheel. It needed a flat area for it to stick nicely, and the rest of the dash area is either connecting between panels, or has curves. The Bluetooth receiver plugged into the ground loop isolator, which I then plugged into the 3.5mm female side of the adapter. Once I ensured it all worked, I used zip ties and tidied up the wiring all on the lower kick panel area resulting in the majority of wiring behind hidden.
My opinion on the quality of sound is that the Ground Loop Isolator does reduce the quality of sound slightly, but by using a Sound Equalizer on my phone, I can more than make up for this loss. Turning up the volume on my phone to about 3/4 of full, the volume has to be turned up slightly more on the radio in comparison to the AM/FM channels. I didn't test the Bluetooth receiver without the ground loop, but I went for a quick drive and did not have any feedback from the engine or anything else.
Something that was of interest, since I'm using the CD Changer slot in the radio to power the Bluetooth Receiver, I am seeing that it is always receiving power, even when the car is turned off and no keys in the ignition. That means I can also charge my phone with no key in the ignition. I don't think this will be an issue, but I am going to have to keep an eye on if this causes any excess drain to the battery. I am assuming the power is always live because the radio is always receiving power with the anti-theft security, so using this wiring method, I have to manually turn the receiver on and off. It isn't a big deal as I only have to hold the Main button on the receiver for a few seconds each time. I wanted to use this instead of wiring it through the DC outlet for two reasons: 1) Free up the DC Port for a GPS or something else, and 2) I didn't want the unit to receive power when I put the Key to ON, and then cut power when I went to start the car, and then receive power again once the vehicle is started. I feel like that would cause issues with the Receiver in the long term with the short power cycles.
Overall, I am happy with the install and the result, but I only installed everything today, so I'll know better in a few weeks once I am able to test everything a little more thoroughly.
I ended up relocating the Bluetooth receiver to just above the volume knob on the silver trim, as it was more natural to use my right hand to change tracks. I fed the wire under the dash and tucked the wires into the panel right by where the right leg rests which allows for minimal wire exposure.
After about two months of use, I have no complaints whatsoever. Everything works as it should and the receiver automatically connects on power up with no fuss. Also no battery drain issues with having the power for the USB from the radio adapter being live all the time. My car does sit for a week or two sometimes as well.
I would definitely recommend this route for those looking for a cheap Bluetooth music/calling option.
After about two months of use, I have no complaints whatsoever. Everything works as it should and the receiver automatically connects on power up with no fuss. Also no battery drain issues with having the power for the USB from the radio adapter being live all the time. My car does sit for a week or two sometimes as well.
I would definitely recommend this route for those looking for a cheap Bluetooth music/calling option.
Last edited by vpasla1; Aug 2, 2018 at 06:58 AM.
Just wanted to update as I changed the AUX adapter to a different one.
I started having issues with the one I had used when I had opened the under steering cover to run some new wires, and it appeared that the cable that sends the AUX signal started working intermittently.
Think of it as when your headphone cable starts to break inside at the joint and you have to move the cable around to get the sound working properly. I troubleshooted each part of the connection and it confirmed to be that cable itself, near the joint where the cables come out of the box.
I took a look at just upgrading the head unit first, but didn't want to drop big money as our sound system isn't the easiest to plug and play with a new head unit, and with the age and mileage of the vehicle, it didn't make sense.
I ended up looking at replacement units, as I got an easy six years of regular use without issues, and found there are now ones that allow playback through USB, but that didn't interest me since I have all the wires tucked away anyways, and would rather use Bluetooth so I could take calls as well. I also wanted to avoid having the same issue with the cable breaking on the inside again if it could be avoided.
I ended up finding this unit:
- "Moonet Car Stereo AUX Input & USB Charging Interface 3.5mm Aux Adapter for Honda Accord Odyssey Pilot S2000 Civic CR-V" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002184463777.html) - which was about $30 CAD.
Upon delivery and inspection of the unit side by side with the old one, this one didn't have the same pin out, as it uses two less wires in the connector (I can't recall exactly which ones, but I believe it was pin 5 and 6). I was concerned that it may not work, but the connector was the same 6+8 connector Honda uses, so I figured I would take a chance. It ended up working just fine.
The first benefit to this one over the last one is that it has a 3.5mm port, so you can insert any AUX cable in there, so if the cable breaks on the inside again I can just change the cable instead of the whole unit. This one also has a USB port that delivers 5V-2A (I confirmed with the seller since it wasn't in the listing), which was plenty to run my Bluetooth device mentioned above.
The second benefit to this device, is that it only works with the key being in Position 1, 2 or ON. As soon as you shut the car off remove the key, it stops being powered, so any devices plugged in will power off, and then power on when you get back in the car. I believe this is caused by not having wires in the connector that the previous one had, as that one was always powered, even with no key in the ignition.
I just took out the old unit, plugged in the new unit, and left the rest of my setup the same as I had used before.
Sound quality is as good as the last one, which is pretty good. I had an old cassette to AUX adapter that I used while I was waiting for the part to come in the mail, and you can definitely hear the difference in sound quality between the two.
Overall, it's only been a week or so since I changed the unit, but I have zero complaints so far. Just figured I would provide a better solution than my previous one for those with a 2004-06 TL (especially those in Canada who don't have XM, and the port in the back of the radio is empty).
I started having issues with the one I had used when I had opened the under steering cover to run some new wires, and it appeared that the cable that sends the AUX signal started working intermittently.
Think of it as when your headphone cable starts to break inside at the joint and you have to move the cable around to get the sound working properly. I troubleshooted each part of the connection and it confirmed to be that cable itself, near the joint where the cables come out of the box.
I took a look at just upgrading the head unit first, but didn't want to drop big money as our sound system isn't the easiest to plug and play with a new head unit, and with the age and mileage of the vehicle, it didn't make sense.
I ended up looking at replacement units, as I got an easy six years of regular use without issues, and found there are now ones that allow playback through USB, but that didn't interest me since I have all the wires tucked away anyways, and would rather use Bluetooth so I could take calls as well. I also wanted to avoid having the same issue with the cable breaking on the inside again if it could be avoided.
I ended up finding this unit:
- "Moonet Car Stereo AUX Input & USB Charging Interface 3.5mm Aux Adapter for Honda Accord Odyssey Pilot S2000 Civic CR-V" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002184463777.html) - which was about $30 CAD.
Upon delivery and inspection of the unit side by side with the old one, this one didn't have the same pin out, as it uses two less wires in the connector (I can't recall exactly which ones, but I believe it was pin 5 and 6). I was concerned that it may not work, but the connector was the same 6+8 connector Honda uses, so I figured I would take a chance. It ended up working just fine.
The first benefit to this one over the last one is that it has a 3.5mm port, so you can insert any AUX cable in there, so if the cable breaks on the inside again I can just change the cable instead of the whole unit. This one also has a USB port that delivers 5V-2A (I confirmed with the seller since it wasn't in the listing), which was plenty to run my Bluetooth device mentioned above.
The second benefit to this device, is that it only works with the key being in Position 1, 2 or ON. As soon as you shut the car off remove the key, it stops being powered, so any devices plugged in will power off, and then power on when you get back in the car. I believe this is caused by not having wires in the connector that the previous one had, as that one was always powered, even with no key in the ignition.
I just took out the old unit, plugged in the new unit, and left the rest of my setup the same as I had used before.
Sound quality is as good as the last one, which is pretty good. I had an old cassette to AUX adapter that I used while I was waiting for the part to come in the mail, and you can definitely hear the difference in sound quality between the two.
Overall, it's only been a week or so since I changed the unit, but I have zero complaints so far. Just figured I would provide a better solution than my previous one for those with a 2004-06 TL (especially those in Canada who don't have XM, and the port in the back of the radio is empty).
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