Chad05TL

Does anyone have any? Coax or separates. Leaning toward coax and removing the satillite. I like mb quart but they dont make a 6.25 that i know of. HERTZ is a possibility but i think they dont make a 6.25 also. I am trying to avoid those cheap speakers looking for 4ohm.

abirvalg

i like JBL P series
the quality and the sound are great
and you can find them for a lot less than MSRP

the mounting hardware is good as well, a intermediate metal rings with plenty of holes and easy to drill if you need extra (front fit as is, rears need 1 extra hole), not need to manufacture anything, just cut the stock plastic baffles off in the front and little nubs off the screw sockets in the back

pohljm

Components for sure in front no coax in rear. Need a budget for any recommendations

I hate cars

Dynaudio Esotar 650 in the doors. Dynaudio 110 in the dash. These are the best sounding speakers I've ever run. Something tells me you're more of an Infnity kind of guy though.

Are 2 ohm speakers cheap?

Why 6.25 and not 6.5?

Also look into Phass, Focal Be, Audio Technology, DLS, Morel Supremo, and I can't remember the name of Busa's great front stage right now.

Chad05TL

The reason i was thinking about coax up front is because i dont like satillite tweaters blaring in your ear. Especially ones that are not particularly clean, like the factory ones i have now. Plus it sounds more even with some treble coming from the lower foot.area as well. I guess i could install coax in front in combination with satillites but figure out a way to attenuate the power going into the satillites so they are not overbearing. Something about this TL factory system my ears dont like. Its like i can feel pressure building in my ear so i always have to turn it down..No other car car stereo ever did that to me and i noticed it immediately when i got the TL so i dont think there is anything wrong with my ears. Its just the harsh system. Now, my sub int the trunk is fine. But i gotta do something about these high frequencies.

I thought 6.25 is the actual size of the hole. But whatever fits is ok.

Budget : something middle range. 30 is too cheap, 250 is a bit too high.

I have heard about infinity but something tells me those may sound good but they might be slightly underpowered. But i dont know that from any reading or technical specs.

I will have to look up those brands that ihc mentioned. I am going to get another amp and probably an audio control device.. i just bought an 07-08 TypeS cd player with aux port and mp3 and all that. So i am going to rig up and external aux. The guy is sending pigtails too.

Thanks. :-)

abirvalg

too bad they all cost close to the car itself

pohljm

Thats why a budget is needed. If $250 is to much then i cannot help you. The last thing you would ever want in a build like your contemplating would be more than a single pair of tweeters. You also do not want to perceive the sound coming from the kicks. It should be coming from out over your hood. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the front stage of the ELS system unless you want to listen to music while driving with the windows open. For a parked situation at moderate levels its actually very nice.

If you actually want some decent mid bass then you will need to upgrade drivers and amps. The OEM sub is unacceptable. What are you planning on doing for low end? A good set of components can reach as low as the stock sub can play anyway

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

I got Soundstream SC-6T Arachnid Series, they sound awesome for $50. I had Alpines but the soundstream destroy those speakers especially mid bass.

I hate cars

I would fix the offending speakers. The problem might sound like its coming from the tweeters but the mids in the doors have no low pass filter meaning there's no cutoff on the top end and that can mean cone breakup and harshness.

I would start by unplugging the tweeters and see if the offending sound is gone. The tweeters only take over around 10khz so they're just adding a little sparkle to the top end and the 6.5s start beaming below 3khz so there's a problem there with the drivers side having to cover that upper range being 60 degrees off axis. A more realistic crossover point will do wonders.

Infinity was a joke. If you think the stock system is harsh, the Infinities will make your ears bleed.

A component set is probably what you need. The tweeters in the dash bring the stage up and as long as they are attenuated properly you'll never be able to tell where the sound is coming from. A decent component set will have decent crossover points instead of the half ass factory job. To make just about any aftermarket speaker work you're going to need an amp though. Even 50w per channel will sound much better than factory.

I hate cars

Yeah, when I was first getting into this hobby I made the mistake of saying my budget is open and I want the best, not knowing there was anything out there over $500. Someone posted a Focal Be set with mono bloc I think. It was somewhere around $3k and my first reaction was surprise and then pity for whoever was stupid enough to spend this much on a front stage. A couple years later and I have $4k in speakers in the front. The hobby claimed another victim.

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

I have about $1000 into my whole stereo, including a touch screen deck front and rear speakers, amps and subs. Ill bet you money if an average guys sits in my car and then sits in a car that cost 6000 he wont know the difference.

I think a lot of people waste money on systems that aren't for competitions. Got to have that brand name or people will try to bash you. Who cares as long as it sounds good. Ive been doing systems for 20 years, I have heard probably 1000's of stereos. Most of it is a huge waste of money on a name.

Chad05TL

When I said "wanting to avoid those cheap speakers".. I meant that as a separate sentence apart from "Looking for 4 ohm". I should have pressed a period in the middle. But actually, 2 or 4 is probably ok as long as it sounds good at various output levels.

So, anyway, I am looking at the brands everyone has recommended so far. Trying to find prices and availability locally (Dallas) or on ebay / amazon.

pohljm: I have a JLW3V2 single sub in the trunk with the factory 8" sub removed. Just have a hole there. The W3 woofer in the trunk is fine. I am just concentrating on the 4x4. I am leaving the factory amp on the center channel. The reminds me, I need to order one of those Pin extractors because I am going to perform surgery on my baby. haha http://www.oemacuraparts.com/?p=cata...=07AAC-S84A201 OR something that looks like this If I don't already have one buried in my tools.. I really wish I had a house. So I can unload and spread out. And stop working out of a jar. Patience Chad, God says.

Chad05TL

don't hold back IHC. Lett'r rip. haha

pohljm

I would keep the center and the OEM rears on the OEM amp. I do not even use the rears. Concentrate on the front stage.

I hate cars

That's a bold statement and an assumption at best. I've run plenty of the cheap speakers. How many Dynaudio or Phass or Focal systems have you owned?

With each upgrade has come an improvement. I started with Infinities, then ID CTX-65, and on and on. Going from my already good Dyn Esotecs to their more expensive Esotars was a huge improvement. I have an extremely great sounding system that will get very loud without distortion and without sounding stressed. It throws a good sound stage and will truly play effortlessly from 18hz to 20khz.

Before making assumptions and assuming you're smarter than people that buy high end gear just for the name you might want to see how they arrived at that point. We won't get into the days of tuning to optimize what I have. If you think those soundstreams and your system as a whole can match the sound quality, output, staging, and dynamics of mine, you're delusional.

Nobody knows what Dynaudio is outside of the forums, the name will not impress anyone, and my system is for me to enjoy, not those around me. It makes my drive to and from work much nicer.

I do not talk about audio because no one around here is into audio. The rare time someone asks to hear it and I put them in the drivers seat where everything is tuned for theres usually a very large smile on their face. When asked what equipment I run not one person has ever heard of Dynaudio or Acoustic Elegance. It might as well be infinity as far as they're concerned. Lets not forget my subs were $333 delivered for the pair from a practically unknown company. My amps are the only thing people recognize and it's just the JL name, not the actual model of amp.

These baseless ignorant assumptions get old after a while. The equivalent of you acting as though I'm too dumb to see through the brand without knowing what led me to purchase this brand is me questioning your economic status as the reason why you buy cheap stuff. Sounds pretty screwed up doesn't it.

I hate cars

If you can up the budget a little, JBL has a very nice component set. Getting close to $500 the JL C5 comp set is extremely nice. They're a little more laid back, less harsh but sound great. The coaxial version is only $280.

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

I don't assume anything, I know for a fact the average joe will not hear a difference between a competition stereo versus a well installed mid market one. If you know how to match speakers with the right amps and the correct wiring a mid budget stereo set up will blow most peoples mind. You can spend $10,000 on a setup and still sound like ass, because the installer has no idea what they are doing.

He asked for recommendations and I gave one. I didn't assume or say I am smarter than people who buy high end gear, It's their hobby and what they are in to. My recommendation came from the fact he said he wanted something middle range.

Just my opinion and wasn't posting to have ego contest. I never mentioned you once in my post, so your the one with assumptions .

Chad05TL

Ok guys, lets try not to argue. Both of you have good points and truth in what you are saying. So lets just go with it. Everyone has different levels in which they are willing to invest to achieve a certain result. So, I don't think there is a right or a wrong. It just depends on what you think is "worth it" and how much you are willing to invest to get a particular result. That's all.

pohljm

I have $1000 in my complete system as well and I know the difference between my system and one with a pair of $50 dollar speakers would be painfully obvious to even the most uneducated listener. I believe mine to be a low-mid budget system and it is completely adequate, but dont try and fool anyone its not at the level of a SQ competition level system. I guess the point is..........if you cannot tell then what difference does it make. Just be sure you never listen to something really nice or you will be in trouble. I would say that you can get 85% of sonic quality for a reasonable amount of money, its the last 15% that really becomes expensive as well as elusive.

abirvalg

you may have just came up with a variation of the 80/20 rule that applies to most things in life
the last 20% of blah-blah-blah will use up 80% of the budget

I hate cars

That's the way it is in car audio. The last 20% might cost 10x as much. To me it was worth it.

My problem is with the constant criticism that comes with running high end equipment. You're labeled as a dumbass that only bought whatever brand due to brand loyalty because you're not smart enough to make decisions based on what's best for you. To make it worse its usually people who have never owned the high end brand in question that are making the ignorant statements.

I hate cars

Wait, you know for a FACT that no one can tell the difference in a high end competition system and a mid level system? Have you done surveys? My system isn't a competition system so I guess I have nothing to worry about but this is the kind of nonsense I'm talking about.

What's this about matching speakers to the right amps? There is no such thing. Correct wiring? I would hope everyone has the correct wiring no matter what the cost. A $10,000 setup can sound like ass if the installer has no idea what they're doing? Duh. A cheap system will sound even worse with a bad install. Good thing I have a solid install. What's with the assumption that those of us with high end systems have crappy installs? Or we can't pick out the right equipment? I've spent over 120hours tuning with my PS8, optimizing what I have. What processor are you running and how much time do you have behind the controls?

How many well tuned high end systems have you heard? I'll guarantee anyone can hear a difference in a mid grade system and a high end system especially as the volume is cranked assuming good installs and tuning for both. I don't know why it's always assumed those of us with good equipment just throw everything in the car with a crappy install. This isn't just about you, it's all over the Internet.

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

lol ok I think I specifically said AVERAGE JOE. It sounds to me as you are taking it personal when I never once mentioned you.

Now go play with your stereo because I am done arguing with someone I wasn't even addressing.

pohljm

Actually you said it was a FACT. And who is arguing?

Chad05TL

well I got my TL-S radio in already. haha I better get on the ball.

I hate cars

What did you decide on? You can find some great deals on really good used equipment in the classifieds on DIYMA. I got my Dyn 182 9" door speakers unused for $400 under retail. I got my Dyn 110 tweeter specially modded unused $1000 cheaper than retail.

If you want only new and from a dealer, Jerry (niebur3 on here) has everything from mid level to very high end with great prices and service, Jerry is your guy. I suggest image dynamics or JL C5. There's a Dynaudio comp set for sale cheap on DIYMA right now. These are some of the best sounding comps out there.

Chad05TL

Haven't decided. I am getting connectors / pigtails for the hu and then the amp and then make a decision on speakers. I may make a few trips to local dealers to listen.

Chad05TL

And im very busy at work. I had to write a last minute mop for the techs yesterday and tired when i got home. Plus lots of little pieces on this stereo stuff.

abirvalg

i have found that being pointless, the range represented and the condition of the display items is usually pathetic

price is not a bad indicator of quality when it comes to speakers

so, looking at specs and shopping online is a pretty safe way to get what you want

Meacura86

I would change the Speaker too! Is this simply connect the cable or must i watchin for some thing?

tegman2

iTrader: (1)

I love my Hybrid Audio (HAT) components that I got from niebur3

abirvalg

it could be a little core complicated than that
you may need to solder
metra has honda connectors that could help to make the job easier if you need to be able to simply plug the speakers
but most aftermarket speakers will accept bare wire, meaning you can just cut the factory plugs off

xxx_busa

Well, well, Well. interesting tread, Many very solid brands mentioned by IHC, & tegman2.

I would recommend the SB Acoustics or ARC black series, or the Scanspeak Discovery drivers for one on a budget. One could have a very solid system with many of the drivers mentioned not spending a fortune, and the Morel, I think they have coax drivers. And sound good too. But creating or having the correct install done is the most important. I truly doubt 1000 dollars will purchase much, it'll get you started.

I've got ZR Labs.(clearly not a brand new anyone knows) they make Ground Zero's reference grade components. Some of the true-est drivers I've ever owned. This past weekend I sampled midranges on my pillars, time for me to make some changes to the install.

3 drivers demo'd

pohljm

1k gets you :
Oem headunit
JL 700/5
ID CXS components
Good cables
Sound deadening
Value 15" IB Sub.
iPod integration
DIY IB baffle and install

abirvalg

i think my sound deadening alone easily tips the 1k scale

let's see ... 6 or 8 trunk kits of hushmat, 2 of damplifier pro, 1 of murder mat, 1 of raam, a bunch of closed cell, thinsulate, and MLV ... yeap i'm pretty sure i'm over 1k
you don't tend to check card statements while in the heat of an install

but at least i'm not the only one here over-doing things

Chad05TL

Speaking of OEM headunit... I took mine out tonight and the whole navi screen has to come out with it.. So, anyway, I thought I would check out the bulbs and here is what I am surprised to see.. The top bulb is white/clear.. and all the lower ones have a blue cover on it! I'm kinda confused as to how they light up white!!??. This is OEM. But I may change it.

xxx_busa

1k will maybe get ya midbass.......then its best to have a pair.

pohljm

no, 1K will get YOU a midbass.
1K gets me an entire system.
now I am just awaiting a deal on a processor and then I am complete.

Chad05TL

I was at Fry's today and heard the POLK MM651. The tweeter sounded pretty easy going. I think that is important. Priced at $239. Might be too much? Bu tthey are 6.5" speakers. Is it possible to fit a 6.5" speaker in the 6.25" hole? I mean, 6.25 is correct right? I think the rears are the same but I had to do some huge bending to get the rears installed. I'm not even that satisfied with my rear speakers that I got. They are JL C2-650 and they are just slightly too big but slightly too big turned out to be a huge PITA. haha I just want something that sounds decent at a decent price that I don't have to RIP everything up. I'm still considering speakers but I have been tied up with pin outs and creating a converter cable from 26p to 40p and plus I gotta get an Aux port and I was wondering if a USB aux port will work. I have to review how the aux port works. I know there is an auto detect when you insert the gizmo. And 1 more thing I have to do. Since I have been driving the past week with my navi screen and radio completely out, I found what is making that clicking sound when you press on the brake. I have a picture of it.. And I am going to remove that "safety feature" that makes you have to press the brake before shifting into reverse and it makes a noise every time you hit the brake because it doesn't know if you are in drive or park. haha ya know? I already bypassed the seat donger bell... you know, the one that sounds off when you drive off before buckling your seat belt. So, this is one more little mod I have to do while the dash is OOS. By the way, 1 more thing.. I noticed my Power outlet has 2 plugs but the white one is taped back and not used. The black one is used. The gray one in the BG is for the radio. What is the white one for? anybody? haha

pohljm

I would completely avoid frys for a purchase. ISimple for ipod and aux integration