'04 TL rear subwoofer replacement

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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 01:10 PM
  #1  
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Exclamation '04 TL rear subwoofer replacement

Hello everyone,

All of the sudden my rear subwoofer started to make some weird crippy noise and i realized it's time to replace it. However, I could find any subwoofers that would look like mine. Any suggestion where I'm supposed to look for a new sub at? The sub is the middle speaker in the rear dash.
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Old Feb 14, 2013 | 08:32 PM
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I'm in the same boat, my stock sub must have deteriorated or is blown. I'm thinking something like a bazooka tube in the trunk, not sure of a good free-air sub to replace with.
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 06:31 PM
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Okay I'm looking to put Sony amp 1000W and a sub-box into my trunk with (1400 W) woofer. Now I have a question, can I connect it to my regular audio unit or its gonna be a problem? I don't wanna touch my NAVI ..
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 08:17 AM
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Cut the wires going to the factory sub when you remove it and connect them to a line out converter or if you amp has line level inputs just extend the wire and put it to the amp. I can control my sub amp with the stock nav head unit. It was actually easier than I thought it was going to be, just installed my stuff last weekend.

Kicker makes an 8" 2 ohm free air sub that is dirt cheap, like $50 or so but I doubt it'll sound any better than stock as it gets very low power and is in a bad location. And free air sucks.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 350
Cut the wires going to the factory sub when you remove it and connect them to a line out converter or if you amp has line level inputs just extend the wire and put it to the amp. I can control my sub amp with the stock nav head unit. It was actually easier than I thought it was going to be, just installed my stuff last weekend.

Kicker makes an 8" 2 ohm free air sub that is dirt cheap, like $50 or so but I doubt it'll sound any better than stock as it gets very low power and is in a bad location. And free air sucks.

Free air is awesome.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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I upgraded my 08 Accords speaker with Audio control processor, Memphis M-class 2-way speakers and front components, as well as a kicker free-air sub. One thing to keep in mind. If you wont DEEP bass from a sub, it wont happen with a free air sub. I only powered the sub with a 100 watt amp. Any more power than that and the sub would bottom out. If you listen to music that with mostly mid-bass like R&B, Club music like techno/trance/break beat, and light hip-hop, It'll be fine. If you won't smooth deep bass then a false floor or side firing set-up will be a more prolific set-up. But at this point in my life, i'll be only upgrading the full-range drivers for 2-way cleaner drivers and im done. I trade my cars too fast (every 2-3 years) that its not a good value for ME to over do my audio upgrades. Keep us updated on what you do. Oh btw. When I swapped out the speakers/sub I put dynamat at every location.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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So basically I can swap the stock amp with my aftermarket which is sony X 1000W and replace the sub with 1400 W and it will 100 % risk free. I mean i don't wanna burn my navi unit.. or amp itself cuz its kinda pricey
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FarS
So basically I can swap the stock amp with my aftermarket which is sony X 1000W and replace the sub with 1400 W and it will 100 % risk free. I mean i don't wanna burn my navi unit.. or amp itself cuz its kinda pricey
The stock amp powers all the speakers, you're adding an additional amp and taking the signal that went to the stock sub from the factory amp. Don't take out the stock amp unless you're adding a 4 channel or don't care about nav/bluetooth. Run a power wire from the battery through the firewall and into the trunk, get an add a fuse and use fuse 32 by the hood release, then add a ground, there's a bolt for the fuel pump ground on the trunk floor you can use. Signal just comes from the wires you'll cut from the stock sub, either using a line out converter and RCAs to the new amp or just speaker wire if it takes line level. Adjusting the sub level on the stock head unit will adjust the signal strength going to your amp.

Should be risk free other than Sony subs being junk.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Free air/IB will get lower with less power than sealed. It will usually have a flatter frequency response extending lower but just as high as sealed. You have to have the displacement to get low though.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Well yeah that sony X amp is 4 channel compatible. I thought it's gonna be a direct replacement. So basically I would need to take a signal from factory amp plug it in to my Sony X amp and than hook it up to the subwoofer?
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 09:59 PM
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Is there any instruction available on how to run a power wire from the battery through that firewall? cuz i have never done that and it could be a problem for myself =(
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Ill sell u my stock sub out of my type s just pm me if u want it
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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From: Willow Grove, PA
Originally Posted by FarS
Is there any instruction available on how to run a power wire from the battery through that firewall? cuz i have never done that and it could be a problem for myself =(
Look dead center on the fire wall, maybe in inch or so lower than the strut bar. There's a black grommet there, I pushed it in with a screw driver, fed in my wire and it poked out by the pedals inside. I took off all the plastics in the engine bay so I had an unobstructed view, there's pics of it somewhere on here if you go through the stickies on amp installs.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:01 PM
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If you want real bass, take the blown speaker out and get a real sub. Leave the hole there for better air flow.
If your not going for crazy bass get a 10" with a small amp. You wont regret it.
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