TiTo1988

Don't feel like reading? Kicker CXA600.1 amplifier goes into PRT mode when the volume is turned up on stock head unit. This happens even when subwoofer speaker wires are disconnected AND/OR rca cables on amp are disconnected. $20 via paypal if you can help me solve this issue.

- Remote wire is hooked up to stock amp
- 12v is connected to battery
- Ground was sandwiched between frame and back seat support. Ground was later moved to where fuel pump ground is. Did not change anything and amp still goes into PRT mode.
- LOC was connected to stock sub wires and stock subwoofer connector stayed disconnected
- 4 gauge wire for 12v and ground
- Subwoofer is wired for 2 ohm per Kicker's manual to match CXA600.1


What's up, everyone

New guy on here with a base model 08 TL that I purchased about two weeks ago. Love this car's interior, how it rides, and it's a Honda so it will last forever (I hope).

The first thing to go was the stock subwoofer and I have this issue that is causing me to grow white hairs and stressing me the F out. Mind you, this isn't the first time I install an aftermarket amp and subwoofer system.

First off, here are the links to what I purchased:

Amp: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-...?skuId=4781400

Subwoofer: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-...?skuId=5125616

LOC: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-t...?skuId=1265702

Wiring kit: 4 gauge for 12v and ground (can't find link, but purchased from Best Buy as well)

I am using a bluetooth fm transmitter for music, but have the same issue when using the regular fm radio stations.

So here's the issue. When I turn up the volume on the stock head unit, the subwoofer starts to clip and the amp goes into PRT mode. Gain is about 1/4 of the way up on amp. Bass boost is about 1/4. Crossover knob I have moved all over the place and it still goes into PRT mode. The bass on the head unit is all the off, treble is up, center is up, subwoofer is up, fade is center, SVC has been moved to all 4 settings (off, low, mid, and high) and L/R is center. I have adjusted ALL these settings to different configurations and it still goes into PRT mode.

Now I have read everything on here and have seen people talk about disconnecting a rear mic on the TYPE S, BUT I have a base model and am NOT getting any kind of feedback or weird buzzing noises that others have run into. I have even turned up the volume with the doors open and still have the same issue. The subwoofer hits at low volumes when I turn up the gain and bass boost, but the amp always shuts off when I turn the volume up on the HU no matter if gain and bass boost are at zero.

The weird thing is that when I disconnect the subwoofer wires AND/OR rca cables from the amplifier, it still goes into PRT mode. Crazy right? I'm going crazy trying to figure out what the heck is wrong with this setup and I have exchanged the amp AND sub for new ones so I know those aren't the issue. I don't believe it is the LOC either because the amp still goes into PRT mode when the rca cables are disconnected from the amp.

Is there some kind of device or procedure that you need to do to make aftermarket amps work on this car??

Thank you in advance for your help and hopefully someone else has ran into this issue and fixed it! I have been reading countless other threads on here, but everyone goes off topic or starts talking about a different issue or the Type S...

Jackass

If you are telling us that when all inputs and outputs are disconnected and the amp goes into PRT mode, then:

If there is no input to the amp at all, can't be overloading anything.
If there are no outputs to the amp at all, can't be shorting or grounding out anywhere.

That leaves only two options:
- bad amp
- bad power and/or remote wiring

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^give this man a beer and the $20.

TiTo1988

Sweet! Thank you for the response! I disconnected the RCA's and the speaker wires and it was still going into PRT mode. I'm going to try rewiring the remote wire and see if that fixes the issue. I didn't think the remote or 12v wire would cause those issues. The remote wire is currently wired to the stock amp so perhaps it could be wired to something that can't sustain the amp? I figured if the remote wire was hooked up to something wrong then the amp wouldn't even show a light.

Jackass

1.) Disconnect remote from factory amp
2.) Connect remote to 12V+
3.) If amp powers on correctly, that is your culprit.

thoiboi

I'm going to hold you to your word and ensure Jackass gets his $20 ...

Jackass

As much as I like money, I don't really need/want the $20. I at least will acknowledge that he did IM me asking me for my PP info so appears he was holding up to his original post.

OP, did you get it figured out on how it is supposed to be actually wired up? Assuming your remote wire went to the wrong wire on the factory amp. I haven't mucked with the factory system, so no idea what is right or wrong...but I know there have been threads in the past that discussed exactly where to tap into for the amp remote.

TiTo1988

I poked around on some youtube videos and some threads on here and most have said to tap into a wire in the factory amp (can't remember at this exact moment, but yellow/red comes to mind). I took your advice and tried moving the remote wire to see if that was the issue and BAM! Sucker started hitting hard even with volume all the way up! I tried adding a circuit to fuse #29 first, but that made the check engine light and VSA come on along with the "D" starting to flash. I didn't feel like dying so I moved it to fuse #31 and it worked like a charm! Thanks again for your help! I really do appreciate it!

thoiboi

I'll take the money then

BreezyTL

iTrader: (8)