mokTL

My '06 TL only has 1200 miles on it so I won't be due for a service for a while. I was looking at the manual, though, and it states that for Service A you change the oil only, not the oil filter. Why would they say this? Is there a reason not to change it every time? Do their filters really last 10-15K miles??? Should I follow the manual and only change the oil filter when service B is due or do I change the oil filter every time? Thanks,

Mick

Ron A

I don't know why they said that, but I am sure everyone here changes the filter each time they change the oil.

It's not worth what you save to skip the filter change.

KilroyR1

I have asked the dealer and they say they always change the filter during an oil change. I don't see why anybody would spend $33K on a car and cheap out on a $6 oil filter.

leedogg

I think there might be issues with allowing the initial oil to set itself in the vehicle. I would follow their instructions to the T.

subinf

^-So you dont change the oil filter every oil change?

Bert Kanne

It doesn't make sense to change the oil and not change the filter. There is no conventional oil filter that works for 10-15k miles.

SodaLuvr

Sure they can.

The Napa Gold ($7), Purolator PureOne ($6), or the Mobil 1 Extended Performance ($11) filter should last all last 12-15K. The Napa Gold or Mobil 1 Extended Performance though, would be my choice as either the Mobil 1 is designed specifically to have extra capacity while maintaining high-efficiency, while the Napa Gold should not load up as quickly as the PureOne; I’ve seen the Napa Gold in use for 2 years and 20,000 miles without problems.

Besides...who else besides me dislikes changing the filter...:-p

frenchnew

There is only 1 valid reason why they are doing this!

It's a money saving features that appeals to customers who get all their service done at the dealer.

In the past several years, most manufacurers have pratice different maintenance scenarios to illustrate that their products have the lowest maintenance costs (100,000 miles Spark Plugs comes to mind).

Anyone who has knowledge of engine oil filters will advise against this practice specially if you want to keep your engine well past 100,000 miles.

Engine oil and filter choices and frequency of servicing all have impacts but over the long run. Then again if it's leased and you plan to keep it no longer then what the lease is for, you can save some money by following the manufacurers reccomendations.

We all know that the TL has a very small oil filter with limited dirt holding capacity.

Has the filter does it's job and filter out dirt, the filtration media is becoming more restrictive. as the restriction increases, the bypass valve in the engine oil lubricating circuit will open and leave unfiltered oil circulate in the engine. All engine lubricating circuit incorporates a bypass valve which is designed to leave unfiltered oil circulate in the engine should the oil filter ever becomes plug up. (Engineering point of view is it's better to have unfiltered oil circulate in the engine then no oil).

The operation of the bypass valve happens even on brand new just installed oil filters with new engine oil in certain situation like , freezing cold engine start as the oil is too thick to flow freely throught the filter and also on hard accelleration/downshifts and fastly throttling the engine (low to high RPM) as at that point there is a surge of oil flow volume that can't be all accomodated by the filter itself.

The Bypass valve is a plunger with a calibrated spring in the back, as the restriction across the filter increase, the bypass valve will start to open more often in these situations stated above. The opening of the valve is in proportion to the differential pressure across the oil filter (Differential Pressure is the difference in pressure between the inlet and outlet of the filter).

The bypass valve can be located in the engine or and on the filter. On the 2004 and newer TL's engine, the bypass valve is located in the oil filter itself.

There is another valve in the oil pump called a Relief Valve. It more commonly knowned as a Pressure Regulating Valve and its main function is to maintain the oil pressure down to safe levels in different operating temperatures and various RPM.


This was part of oil filters and lubricating circuits 101

Best regards from Montreal

Brettg

For $6.00 and the size of the filter (small) I will change mine every oil change.

jennarocks

The oil filter on the TL is probably one of the easiest to change. the 4 bangers are a pain as they sit under the intake manifold.

SodaLuvr

That's not the point of this discussion though....

Correct. But remember that as the filter becomes more restrictive, the efficiency rises due to the restriction. This is the reason why the last 1/3 of the filters life is shorter than the first 1/3 of the filter’s life, as during the last 1/3 of the filter’s life, it’ll plug up more quickly due to the higher efficiency. Same goes for air filters, which is why many of the air filters changed today are replaced when the owner has yet to obtain the best filtration performance.

But theoretically, under most driving conditions, the oil filter media should not “plug up completely” within 10,000 miles unless the filter is subject to extreme or extremely unusual operating conditions.

Onto a different subject…

The industry demands longer service intervals for the consumer. After all, how many people change their plugs, ATF, coolant, etc on time ??? Thus, the development of the longer-life antifreezes, so that the customers who do not service their transmissions, etc until 100K will not experience component failure or a loss in performance. A good example is transmissions. Previously, Group I fluids were used in transmissions and spec a 30K service interval. As upgraded fluid were introduced, such as Dexron-IIIH, Mercon V, ATF+4, Honda Z1, Toyota T-IV, etc, the fluids were being blended with Group II/III base fluids and more robust additive packages to survive in the more stressful transmissions now (more complex), and the demands for a fill-for-life application.

mlody

Accords' manual says the same, but I change the oil filter. Kind of hard to save money on skipping the oil filter - not worth impo.

Bert Kanne

I would cringe at letting any oil filter go 12 to 15k. However, if I had to do it, I would use the Mobil 1 extended performance filter AND use the special extended life Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Without putting a used oil filter on a test fixture and chemically analyzing the used oil, it's impossible to determine if either are still good after 20k miles. Why take the risk?

subinf

For a DIY, but if you have a lift I would much rather do a 4 cyl...gets less oil on everything.

jennarocks

haha... with a lift, perhaps... but thats arguable... since the filter attaches sideways, the oil from the filter will spill out... the filter for the TL the filter attaches almost upright. You may get some oil on a control arm. but then more importantly, how many of us have lifts. ;]

my point: if its that easy to get to it, change it.

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

every A service or oil change i've had at the dealer, they always changed the oil filter.

Dan000

iTrader: (1)

Whats going on in this thread?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Dunno, except that's it's over 5 years old. Talk about bring it back from the dead.

Will Y.

You should check/post in the 4G TL forum-- the 3G TL never got SH-AWD, so I certainly have no clue.

Welcome to AZ!

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Until I saw the thread date I was wondering how the hell OP found an '06 TL with only 1200 miles.

whudini3000

iTrader: (1)

Bump: I'm still curious about this. I just installed a Bosch Distance Plus after an oil change and don't plan on changing the filter on the next OCI (Oil Change Interval). If an extended filter absorbs better with use, what's the point of changing it?

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

Service manual says, A1, oil change without filter.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Not exactly sure as to when the MID would emit the A, but I would assume it's before the normal oil change interval. The A schedule is an abbreviated oil change to remove the molybdenum added during assembly, as well as any "debris" or critical break-in wear items that had contaminated the engine oil, but the filter would be good to go until the B service.

csmeance

With oil quality and filter quality improving, and as well as manufacturing standards, Honda decided that it was not necessary to replace the oil filter every time you do an oil change. A lot of folks are weary of this just like with the MID's oil changes that can go as long as 8-9K on DINO!

In all honesty I can see where they are coming from to be more eco-friendly but I highly doubt that 99% of consumers have followed this recommendation. Dealers will always replace it and so will most folks doing their own changes.

Personally the thing that I dislike about it is that the filter holds oil and if you don't drain it out and refill it with new oil, the old oil will contaminate the new oil you just put in!

LaCostaRacer

There's quite a bit of oil in a used oil filter that won't be getting changed if you leave the old filter on. I understand the arguments about the extended performance filters but Honda doesn't call out for using those filters- just the cheap fram-based blue filters. It's just a little time savings not doing an filter and it makes little to no sense in my book. I buy Purolators in bulk for $3-5 a filter so costs are pretty small- less than a Starbucks coffee.

whudini3000

iTrader: (1)

I guess im torn on this issue. I hear the filter filters better with use and though old oil may contaminate the new oil, that oil would be better filtered. *sigh

csmeance

well you could always drain the old oil filter and fill it with new oil but in all honesty I'd just stick with a new filter.