What to use when washing TL
04-11-2008, 09:42 PM
#1
Racer
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What to use when washing TL
I just got my TL-S two weeks ago and its time for a wash. I don't know what to use to wash it. Any recommended car washing products? Also can anyone recommend me which wax to use? I was thinking of going to a local detailing shop and get it done but it costs 130 + which is ridiculous.
04-11-2008, 09:47 PM
#2
08' TL-S RuLeZ
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Maguire's is the best out there.
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
04-11-2008, 09:50 PM
#3
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by lldknyll26
I just got my TL-S two weeks ago and its time for a wash. I don't know what to use to wash it. Any recommended car washing products? Also can anyone recommend me which wax to use? I was thinking of going to a local detailing shop and get it done but it costs 130 + which is ridiculous.
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars21.html
I add Polycharger to it, but even without the PC it shines well and lasts long.
I am in water restrictions now so I can wash my car with 2 5 gallon pales of water using Optimum No Rinse http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-Rinse-.../dp/B000E9TS9G
really good stuff.
04-11-2008, 10:00 PM
#5
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by lldknyll26
I just got my TL-S two weeks ago and its time for a wash. I don't know what to use to wash it. Any recommended car washing products? Also can anyone recommend me which wax to use? I was thinking of going to a local detailing shop and get it done but it costs 130 + which is ridiculous.
Ridiculous?? I start at $160
04-11-2008, 10:03 PM
#6
Suzuka Master
One of the members asked if I could put some tips together for the weekend detailing warrior ( not so much the hard core ones ). More in the line of basic tips as to what might help spiff up the car some without going too deep into it.
So here goes.
First off I’ll start with the car washing .. its not brain surgery but some simple tips can make it so much easier, quicker and more efficient.
Washing and the tools needed
1. Try and pick a shaded area if you can or do it in the morning or evening.
2. Use at least a 2.5 gallon wash pail and make a grit guard for it if you don’t want to buy one. I made mine out of a piece of fluorescent fixture lens called an egg crate. You can do the 2 bucket method but after trying it myself I determined that if the guard is used and the mitt rinsed well there isn’t that much benefit.
3. Get yourself a sheep skin mitt as the chenille ones and the M/F ones tend to mar and a sponge is just a delicate way of wet sanding. If you do have a chenille mitt save it for the wheels, I use my old sheepskin one as my wheels are clear coated and I don’t want to mar them.
4. For a hose nozzle I use what looks like a fire hose nozzle ( do a google on “Ultimate Hose Nozzle “) and I like it because you can adjust it to flood the surface to float the grit away.
5. For drying I recommend the Microfiber Waffle Weave towels as they pick up a lot of water .. make for fast drying and don’t mar. You will need a couple of them and they are 24 x 36” .. can be found on line for less than $10 each. Alternate is the plush blue drying towels found at Wal Mart for around $8.
6. Soap … well everyone will argue for cheap to boutique … I use what’s on sale .. and combined with the proper mitt have never had a problem. Soap serves 2 purposes, one is to lubricate the surface so the grit has less chance to mar and the suds help float away the grit. Keeping it off the paint.
7. This is the point where I use a tire cleaner, I prefer Whesleys Bleech Wite. I try to apply it ONLY to the rubber. Spray all 4 tires then go and give them a bit of a scrub with a brush and rinse each tire at that point. I only use the Bleech Wite every 10th wash etc or when I notice my tires loosing the blackness ( is that a word or did I just make it up?)
8. Also if you have bugs on the front one trick I learned was to place an old wool type blanket over the front of the hood/bumper etc and wet it down and tuck it in all the areas, let it set for 1/ to ½ hour or so to soften the bugs. Maybe do this while your vacuuming the car out . I’m not a fan of bug sprays as some contain Xylene and its not paint friendly. Key to bugs is get them off soon as you can because their innards can be acidic.
9. Wash the grill/bumper area first because if you have to spend time there water is drying on the rest of the car.
10. Wet the car down well and with a stronger spray try and remove as much grit as possible. Then I wash from top down starting with ½ the roof, ½ the windshield and rear window and the windows on one side. Rinse well using a spray of water not a blast. Repeat for the other side.
11. Then I do front fenders and hood etc then rinse.
12. Do 2 doors and rear fender and rinse
13. Do trunk and rear bumper and rinse. Keep the rest of the car wet while doing all this.
14. Do remaining doors and rinse.
15. At this point take the nozzle off the hose and turn the water on to a gentle stream and let it flow all over the car. This does 2 things, A) floods all the grit off the car B) it also pulls about 85% of the remaining water from the car.
16. To dry I take the first M/F WW and fold it in ½ so its 12 x 18 and I hold it by 2 corners and starting at the front edge of the hood on one side I drag it over the hood, windshield, rear window, trunk, rear window, roof on other side, windshield and finally over the other side of the hood. Then I do the same down both sides of the car and across the back bumper.
17. Then I fold the other towel in ¼s and starting with the windows I dry them first then do hood, roof, trunk then finish off the sides and bumpers. In reality I can dry my TL in just a couple minutes.
18. Once the surface is dried I use an old plush towels to dry the wheels and a cheap M/F to do the door edges, trunk edge and under the hood.
19. Now I use a dressing on the tires to make them look nice.
I have been doing this for a while and tho it sounds like a lot once your past the initial cleaning of the engine , door edges etc and in an upkeep mode the wash time is about 40 minutes.
One of the keys to short wash times is to do it often and this way it doesn’t become a daylong chore that never seems to have time to get done.
Waxing and detailing for the Weekend Warrior.
First off I’m not going to get into polishing out swirl marks and spiderwebs as that has been covered to death already. Just some of what I think are useful tips for the beginner.
Ok lets get started, your going to need the following to do even a basic job. And what I am suggesting is products I know work because I have used them. There are also other very good substitutes for each item I mentioned out there.
Wash supplies as above.
Clay Bar kit ( Mothers is OTC ) and works well.
Spot scratch remover ( ScratchX etc )
Yellow foam applicator pads
Microfiber 16 x 16 towels ( Costco yellow ones are excellent, just cut off the tags )
Paint cleaner or cleaner wax ( ColorX is OTC , Klasse AIO , PoliSeal. Etc )
And a wax/sealant of choice. I’m not a Carnuba fan, not saying there is anything wrong with it but the life is too short for all your hard work. I currently use Meguiars #21 sealant. And I’m not about to get into the “Whats best “ wars.
Ok once the car is washed do take the time to Clay Bar the paint surface. This pulls the contaminants out of the paint and leaves a smooth surface to start from. If you have tar of any amount on the car wipe it off using mineral spirits after washing but prior to claying . You will have to rewash before you clay. Clay will remove tar but a lot of tar has imbedded grit and your just asking to have it mar your paint if the clay bar pickes up too much. There is a link in the drop down menu in my web page on clay baring your car. Give it a read. http://www3.telus.net/jesstzn/
As your claying the car take a roll of masking tape and put a small spot of tape on any scratches you see for future reference cuz your not going to remember them all.
Once claying is done there is no need to rewash as long as you used the QD spray supplied for the lube.
Next step is take your ScratchX ( or sub ) and address the scratches you marked with tape. There is a link in the dropdowns on my web page for this too.
When done clean up the paint with the ColorX etc. ColorX is very forgiving and you can apply it to the whole front of the car before removing. ColorX also lays down a sealant for a little protection and is a good base for most sealants. Another reason for it is it will help remove some of the oxidized clear coar and along with it some of the minor swirling that is in the oxidized clear.
Then finally apply your LSP ( Last Step Product .. your selected wax or sealant ) . No need to apply the sealant the same day if your tired. Do it Sunday or next weekend. Just wash the car before you do.
Interior cleaning.
My routine is pretty simple be it my cars or customers.
1. I use a M/F towel misted with a Woolite solution ( see the Wonders Of Woolite button on my web page .. saves me typing ) to clean the dash and all the interior plastic. For the tight spots I put the towel around a Popsicle stick. ( vents etc )
2. I never dress customers interior panels. For my own I use either Meguiars #40 rubber & vinyl dressing or occasionally 303 )
3. Shop vac to vacuum and the Woolite solution for spot carpet staining.
4. Bissel Lil Green Machine if I have to shampoo.
5. Windows I use Stoners Invisible Glass ( Pump not aerosol ) misted lightly on a low nap M/F towel that I have dampened with tap water and rung out. I wipe the window down and immediately wipe/polish it with a 16 x 24 WW M/F towel I have dedicated for windows.
Have fun
Added Notes as I think of them
Any time your claying, using a scratch removal product or any abrasive always to it in a back and forth motion not circular and preferably in the direction the wind blows over your car. Any subsequent marring is a lot hard to see than if done in a circular pattern. I do apply waxes/selants by hand in a circular motion for coverage but I always remove in a back and forth motion. Waxes and sealants when wet have enough lubrication to allow this.
Always use a new yellow foam applicator when applying waxes/sealants or at least one that was washed immediatly after the last use. Dried waxes/sealants in the pad can mar.
So here goes.
First off I’ll start with the car washing .. its not brain surgery but some simple tips can make it so much easier, quicker and more efficient.
Washing and the tools needed
1. Try and pick a shaded area if you can or do it in the morning or evening.
2. Use at least a 2.5 gallon wash pail and make a grit guard for it if you don’t want to buy one. I made mine out of a piece of fluorescent fixture lens called an egg crate. You can do the 2 bucket method but after trying it myself I determined that if the guard is used and the mitt rinsed well there isn’t that much benefit.
3. Get yourself a sheep skin mitt as the chenille ones and the M/F ones tend to mar and a sponge is just a delicate way of wet sanding. If you do have a chenille mitt save it for the wheels, I use my old sheepskin one as my wheels are clear coated and I don’t want to mar them.
4. For a hose nozzle I use what looks like a fire hose nozzle ( do a google on “Ultimate Hose Nozzle “) and I like it because you can adjust it to flood the surface to float the grit away.
5. For drying I recommend the Microfiber Waffle Weave towels as they pick up a lot of water .. make for fast drying and don’t mar. You will need a couple of them and they are 24 x 36” .. can be found on line for less than $10 each. Alternate is the plush blue drying towels found at Wal Mart for around $8.
6. Soap … well everyone will argue for cheap to boutique … I use what’s on sale .. and combined with the proper mitt have never had a problem. Soap serves 2 purposes, one is to lubricate the surface so the grit has less chance to mar and the suds help float away the grit. Keeping it off the paint.
7. This is the point where I use a tire cleaner, I prefer Whesleys Bleech Wite. I try to apply it ONLY to the rubber. Spray all 4 tires then go and give them a bit of a scrub with a brush and rinse each tire at that point. I only use the Bleech Wite every 10th wash etc or when I notice my tires loosing the blackness ( is that a word or did I just make it up?)
8. Also if you have bugs on the front one trick I learned was to place an old wool type blanket over the front of the hood/bumper etc and wet it down and tuck it in all the areas, let it set for 1/ to ½ hour or so to soften the bugs. Maybe do this while your vacuuming the car out . I’m not a fan of bug sprays as some contain Xylene and its not paint friendly. Key to bugs is get them off soon as you can because their innards can be acidic.
9. Wash the grill/bumper area first because if you have to spend time there water is drying on the rest of the car.
10. Wet the car down well and with a stronger spray try and remove as much grit as possible. Then I wash from top down starting with ½ the roof, ½ the windshield and rear window and the windows on one side. Rinse well using a spray of water not a blast. Repeat for the other side.
11. Then I do front fenders and hood etc then rinse.
12. Do 2 doors and rear fender and rinse
13. Do trunk and rear bumper and rinse. Keep the rest of the car wet while doing all this.
14. Do remaining doors and rinse.
15. At this point take the nozzle off the hose and turn the water on to a gentle stream and let it flow all over the car. This does 2 things, A) floods all the grit off the car B) it also pulls about 85% of the remaining water from the car.
16. To dry I take the first M/F WW and fold it in ½ so its 12 x 18 and I hold it by 2 corners and starting at the front edge of the hood on one side I drag it over the hood, windshield, rear window, trunk, rear window, roof on other side, windshield and finally over the other side of the hood. Then I do the same down both sides of the car and across the back bumper.
17. Then I fold the other towel in ¼s and starting with the windows I dry them first then do hood, roof, trunk then finish off the sides and bumpers. In reality I can dry my TL in just a couple minutes.
18. Once the surface is dried I use an old plush towels to dry the wheels and a cheap M/F to do the door edges, trunk edge and under the hood.
19. Now I use a dressing on the tires to make them look nice.
I have been doing this for a while and tho it sounds like a lot once your past the initial cleaning of the engine , door edges etc and in an upkeep mode the wash time is about 40 minutes.
One of the keys to short wash times is to do it often and this way it doesn’t become a daylong chore that never seems to have time to get done.
Waxing and detailing for the Weekend Warrior.
First off I’m not going to get into polishing out swirl marks and spiderwebs as that has been covered to death already. Just some of what I think are useful tips for the beginner.
Ok lets get started, your going to need the following to do even a basic job. And what I am suggesting is products I know work because I have used them. There are also other very good substitutes for each item I mentioned out there.
Wash supplies as above.
Clay Bar kit ( Mothers is OTC ) and works well.
Spot scratch remover ( ScratchX etc )
Yellow foam applicator pads
Microfiber 16 x 16 towels ( Costco yellow ones are excellent, just cut off the tags )
Paint cleaner or cleaner wax ( ColorX is OTC , Klasse AIO , PoliSeal. Etc )
And a wax/sealant of choice. I’m not a Carnuba fan, not saying there is anything wrong with it but the life is too short for all your hard work. I currently use Meguiars #21 sealant. And I’m not about to get into the “Whats best “ wars.
Ok once the car is washed do take the time to Clay Bar the paint surface. This pulls the contaminants out of the paint and leaves a smooth surface to start from. If you have tar of any amount on the car wipe it off using mineral spirits after washing but prior to claying . You will have to rewash before you clay. Clay will remove tar but a lot of tar has imbedded grit and your just asking to have it mar your paint if the clay bar pickes up too much. There is a link in the drop down menu in my web page on clay baring your car. Give it a read. http://www3.telus.net/jesstzn/
As your claying the car take a roll of masking tape and put a small spot of tape on any scratches you see for future reference cuz your not going to remember them all.
Once claying is done there is no need to rewash as long as you used the QD spray supplied for the lube.
Next step is take your ScratchX ( or sub ) and address the scratches you marked with tape. There is a link in the dropdowns on my web page for this too.
When done clean up the paint with the ColorX etc. ColorX is very forgiving and you can apply it to the whole front of the car before removing. ColorX also lays down a sealant for a little protection and is a good base for most sealants. Another reason for it is it will help remove some of the oxidized clear coar and along with it some of the minor swirling that is in the oxidized clear.
Then finally apply your LSP ( Last Step Product .. your selected wax or sealant ) . No need to apply the sealant the same day if your tired. Do it Sunday or next weekend. Just wash the car before you do.
Interior cleaning.
My routine is pretty simple be it my cars or customers.
1. I use a M/F towel misted with a Woolite solution ( see the Wonders Of Woolite button on my web page .. saves me typing ) to clean the dash and all the interior plastic. For the tight spots I put the towel around a Popsicle stick. ( vents etc )
2. I never dress customers interior panels. For my own I use either Meguiars #40 rubber & vinyl dressing or occasionally 303 )
3. Shop vac to vacuum and the Woolite solution for spot carpet staining.
4. Bissel Lil Green Machine if I have to shampoo.
5. Windows I use Stoners Invisible Glass ( Pump not aerosol ) misted lightly on a low nap M/F towel that I have dampened with tap water and rung out. I wipe the window down and immediately wipe/polish it with a 16 x 24 WW M/F towel I have dedicated for windows.
Have fun
Added Notes as I think of them
Any time your claying, using a scratch removal product or any abrasive always to it in a back and forth motion not circular and preferably in the direction the wind blows over your car. Any subsequent marring is a lot hard to see than if done in a circular pattern. I do apply waxes/selants by hand in a circular motion for coverage but I always remove in a back and forth motion. Waxes and sealants when wet have enough lubrication to allow this.
Always use a new yellow foam applicator when applying waxes/sealants or at least one that was washed immediatly after the last use. Dried waxes/sealants in the pad can mar.
Trending Topics
04-12-2008, 08:26 PM
#9
Originally Posted by KpMeth
Maguire's is the best out there.
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
04-12-2008, 09:15 PM
#11
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by Goldenboy_Don
Jess, the colorX is a sealanT? So you put that on and then a selected wax?
I'm trying to figuare out the steps and what to use when...
I'm trying to figuare out the steps and what to use when...
You wax after a sealant if you decide to wax at all .. just don't use a cleaner wax.
04-12-2008, 09:19 PM
#12
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by lldknyll26
that sounds like sh*t load of work. So much things i have to purchase prior to washing the cars. KeithL how do you not have a single paint chip on your bumper?
$30,000 car and $40 is too much to spend to wash it and put on a coat of wax?
Work is good for you .. in good weather I detail a car a day .. todays was an Infinity .. took 2 of us a total of 9 hours .. wash/ clay / spot polish scratches / polish out the total car / Poliseal then Meguiars #21 .. and detailt the interior & glass ..
Ahem .. and i'm older than your dad ..
04-12-2008, 10:30 PM
#14
Turd Polisher
iTrader: (1)
Great post Jesstzn.
04-13-2008, 12:31 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Jesstzn
TY 
I just bought a Zaino kit and I'm gonna give my TL-S the full treatment once the nice weather hits here.
04-14-2008, 08:16 AM
#18
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Jess one more question about the woolite solution...after using the woolite on say leather seats do you then dress the seats to protect them, or is the woolite solution good enough?
Thanks man great stuff!!!
Thanks man great stuff!!!
04-14-2008, 08:33 AM
#19
you have had the car two weeks and havent washed it...
before you wax you need to polish, before you polish you need to clay, before you clay you need to wash...follow the steps or risk having your car look like everyone else who takes their car to the car wash ie the scratch and go....use the correct products to do the job correctly....
before you wax you need to polish, before you polish you need to clay, before you clay you need to wash...follow the steps or risk having your car look like everyone else who takes their car to the car wash ie the scratch and go....use the correct products to do the job correctly....
04-14-2008, 08:35 AM
#20
Originally Posted by KpMeth
Maguire's is the best out there.
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
Its in liquid so easy to apply.
smells good too...thing is... the bugs are attracted to it cuz of smell lol
Its good. Trust me
04-14-2008, 09:25 AM
#21
Its MY Car & I Love It!!!
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
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Well, most of the time I use no soap. Just a bucket of water and a soft wet shammie cloth(the little rubber like towel you use to dry your car off with). My car is spick and span when its all said and done. The only time I will use soap is if the car is outright filthty. But thats rare since I wash it atleast once a week.
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
04-14-2008, 10:18 AM
#23
Originally Posted by DJSlim
Well, most of the time I use no soap. Just a bucket of water and a soft wet shammie cloth(the little rubber like towel you use to dry your car off with). My car is spick and span when its all said and done. The only time I will use soap is if the car is outright filthty. But thats rare since I wash it atleast once a week.
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
as for no car wash soap, this is an important step in the wash process as the soaps sole purpose is to add lubrication so the dirt can be lifted off the paint....
its your car, do what you want to it, but your process is in some serious need of help...
04-14-2008, 10:26 AM
#24
Its MY Car & I Love It!!!
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^^^yea, alot of people say that. I was scared at first. My uncle has a black 300C and thats how he washes it. No scratches what-so-ever. And black paint is a magnet for scratches. So I tried it myself and it seemed to work. No scratches and nice clean shine. I look at it as the natural way of doing things. I dont plan on doing this for long though as I always liked using soap and other stuff to clean my car with. Its just whats working for me now. I may change my mind tomorrow.
04-14-2008, 10:52 AM
#25
Originally Posted by DJSlim
Well, most of the time I use no soap. Just a bucket of water and a soft wet shammie cloth(the little rubber like towel you use to dry your car off with). My car is spick and span when its all said and done. The only time I will use soap is if the car is outright filthty. But thats rare since I wash it atleast once a week.
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
But I dump the shammie in the bucket of water, get it nice and wet. Spray the car down with the water hose, get it nice and wet. Then take the wet shammie and wipe the car down. Dip the shammie back in the bucket from time to time and finish wiping. You'd be suprised how much dirt you have in the water once you finish wiping the car down. Rinse the shammie off, wring it dry, then dry your car. You done....nice clean shine with no elbow grease or extra chemicals that comes with soap. Just my
04-14-2008, 11:06 AM
#26
AZ Community Team
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Originally Posted by lldknyll26
that sounds like sh*t load of work. So much things i have to purchase prior to washing the cars. .....
There is a whole sub-forum devoted to this: https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/
Jesstzn gave you the "Week-End Warrior" version and he know's his stuff. Too much work? How long do you have to work to earn a car payment?
A full day or two every 6-months PLUS a half day every week or so to care for it doesn't seem like too much in comparision.
04-14-2008, 12:16 PM
#28
Instructor
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Originally Posted by vinnier6
you have had the car two weeks and havent washed it...
before you wax you need to polish, before you polish you need to clay, before you clay you need to wash...follow the steps or risk having your car look like everyone else who takes their car to the car wash ie the scratch and go....use the correct products to do the job correctly....
before you wax you need to polish, before you polish you need to clay, before you clay you need to wash...follow the steps or risk having your car look like everyone else who takes their car to the car wash ie the scratch and go....use the correct products to do the job correctly....
I use this to wash my car:
http://www.reliantpartsworld.co.uk/s.../1P2636173.jpg
it's good stuff...to bad it's discontinued
04-14-2008, 06:12 PM
#29
AZ Community Team
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^^
If your car is two weeks old it REALLY needs a clay bar.
It's been sitting on the lot, on a truck, on a train and/or on the factory lot for who knows how long, collecting who knows what environmental contaminants. Not to mention the adhesive panels used to protect it from transit damage and whatever the dealer might have done to it while prepping/cleaning it.
Do it right the first time and give the car a good base to build on.
If your car is two weeks old it REALLY needs a clay bar.
It's been sitting on the lot, on a truck, on a train and/or on the factory lot for who knows how long, collecting who knows what environmental contaminants. Not to mention the adhesive panels used to protect it from transit damage and whatever the dealer might have done to it while prepping/cleaning it.
Do it right the first time and give the car a good base to build on.
04-16-2008, 11:41 PM
#30
Racer
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its very time consuming but its worth the investment. I didn't follow exactly how it was explained above. I kind of did it the short way, Wash, DRY then wax. Result : few scratches here and there. Stupid me. pissed off but i brought it on myself
04-18-2008, 05:28 PM
#31
Originally Posted by JsL138
If your car is two weeks old, you dont need the claybar.
I use this to wash my car:
http://www.reliantpartsworld.co.uk/s.../1P2636173.jpg
it's good stuff...to bad it's discontinued
I use this to wash my car:
http://www.reliantpartsworld.co.uk/s.../1P2636173.jpg
it's good stuff...to bad it's discontinued
I've heard good stuff about the nxt wash as well, although the nxt wax sucks donkey nuts.
I currently use meguiars gold class wash which has been pretty good.
Just recently did a semi full job, wash, then AIO polish - great stuff, then 4 Star UPP, then 4 Star gloss.
My front is due for a clay though, may do that next.
To the person washing their car with just water. Do you live in an area with 'Soft' water? i.e. does it feel a little slimy to the touch? I believe this can act as a natural lubricant/lift, and might be similar to what that optimum no rinse stuff does to water when added.
I still wouldnt go without soap though. Your car is too expensive to risk like that
04-18-2008, 06:07 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Bearcat94
^^
If your car is two weeks old it REALLY needs a clay bar.
It's been sitting on the lot, on a truck, on a train and/or on the factory lot for who knows how long, collecting who knows what environmental contaminants. Not to mention the adhesive panels used to protect it from transit damage and whatever the dealer might have done to it while prepping/cleaning it.
Do it right the first time and give the car a good base to build on.
If your car is two weeks old it REALLY needs a clay bar.
It's been sitting on the lot, on a truck, on a train and/or on the factory lot for who knows how long, collecting who knows what environmental contaminants. Not to mention the adhesive panels used to protect it from transit damage and whatever the dealer might have done to it while prepping/cleaning it.
Do it right the first time and give the car a good base to build on.
I can't imagine washing with just water...*shudder*...your poor paint!
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