Wanna ballpark it?
01-04-2021, 06:14 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Wanna ballpark it?
Wish - replace entire suspension all oem 2008 Type S 6mt. I would rock auto it, but I just don't know what everything would be needed. Maybe start with the front first obviously, see how the ride improves and go to the "back" perhaps Or just do it all?. But really want oem everything unless there are better options. Purely guessing here (because I have some idea of a parts list but not an entire parts list) $2500?
01-04-2021, 07:22 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
No need to replace the whole front end, lets address common issues:
1. Floaty feel - Shocks are bad, replace the whole assembly vs just the shock itself. OEM is best; aftermarket ones are tailored to accord so you won't have a good ride like type-S. Will feel floaty and bouncy.
2. Car thumps on turns or feels like it's rolling a lot -> Sway bar bushings and endlinks. Aftermarket ones are fine.
3. Dead steering feel -> Replace the front lower control arm bushings. These will make a huge difference on how the car feels and get rid of a lot of slop in the steering that you have gotten used to.
3b. Check and replace tie-rod-ends. After market is fine.
3c. Check ball joints for excessive wear/play. Replace with ball joints that use a castle nut of the proper size. NOT MOOG.
Do those and you'll notice a huge improvement. You can do 3 first and see if it helps. if not, then try 1&2. Make sure to get an alignment after suspension work.
1. Floaty feel - Shocks are bad, replace the whole assembly vs just the shock itself. OEM is best; aftermarket ones are tailored to accord so you won't have a good ride like type-S. Will feel floaty and bouncy.
2. Car thumps on turns or feels like it's rolling a lot -> Sway bar bushings and endlinks. Aftermarket ones are fine.
3. Dead steering feel -> Replace the front lower control arm bushings. These will make a huge difference on how the car feels and get rid of a lot of slop in the steering that you have gotten used to.
3b. Check and replace tie-rod-ends. After market is fine.
3c. Check ball joints for excessive wear/play. Replace with ball joints that use a castle nut of the proper size. NOT MOOG.
Do those and you'll notice a huge improvement. You can do 3 first and see if it helps. if not, then try 1&2. Make sure to get an alignment after suspension work.
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fmallabykay (01-05-2021)
01-05-2021, 11:45 AM
#6
Suzuka Master
I recently redo my suspension on the KBP. inner and outter tire rods are solid (zero play)
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
01-05-2021, 03:57 PM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I recently redo my suspension on the KBP. inner and outter tire rods are solid (zero play)
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
I don't even wanna guess the costs lol I may pass out...there is for sure a clunk from the front right pulling in and out the driveway. First thought...ball joint. It (the 08) for sure has a rougher ride then the 07, but the 07 just got 4 new tires. The 08 is just nosier and rougher. I'm in the smoother "feeling one" 90% of the time though.
Last edited by jeffstlnote; 01-05-2021 at 04:05 PM.
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01-05-2021, 05:25 PM
#8
No need to replace the whole front end, lets address common issues:
1. Floaty feel - Shocks are bad, replace the whole assembly vs just the shock itself. OEM is best; aftermarket ones are tailored to accord so you won't have a good ride like type-S. Will feel floaty and bouncy.
2. Car thumps on turns or feels like it's rolling a lot -> Sway bar bushings and endlinks. Aftermarket ones are fine.
3. Dead steering feel -> Replace the front lower control arm bushings. These will make a huge difference on how the car feels and get rid of a lot of slop in the steering that you have gotten used to.
3b. Check and replace tie-rod-ends. After market is fine.
3c. Check ball joints for excessive wear/play. Replace with ball joints that use a castle nut of the proper size. NOT MOOG.
Do those and you'll notice a huge improvement. You can do 3 first and see if it helps. if not, then try 1&2. Make sure to get an alignment after suspension work.
1. Floaty feel - Shocks are bad, replace the whole assembly vs just the shock itself. OEM is best; aftermarket ones are tailored to accord so you won't have a good ride like type-S. Will feel floaty and bouncy.
2. Car thumps on turns or feels like it's rolling a lot -> Sway bar bushings and endlinks. Aftermarket ones are fine.
3. Dead steering feel -> Replace the front lower control arm bushings. These will make a huge difference on how the car feels and get rid of a lot of slop in the steering that you have gotten used to.
3b. Check and replace tie-rod-ends. After market is fine.
3c. Check ball joints for excessive wear/play. Replace with ball joints that use a castle nut of the proper size. NOT MOOG.
Do those and you'll notice a huge improvement. You can do 3 first and see if it helps. if not, then try 1&2. Make sure to get an alignment after suspension work.
01-05-2021, 05:42 PM
#9
its very comprehensive and I plan to use it for my suspension overhaul job as well
01-05-2021, 06:20 PM
#11
Pro
Thread Starter
I recently redo my suspension on the KBP. inner and outter tire rods are solid (zero play)
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
1. Lower control arm (replace all the bushing with OEM) no need to replace the entire arm unless it bend.
2. Upper control arm replaced with OEM
3. Reseal PS pump and flush the system
4. All sway bar end links has been replaced with OEM
5. Suspension has been swap out to BC coil (previously on Tein Street Advance)
6. OEM lower ball joints
7. OEM engine mounts, transmission mounts and rear damper.
The car front end is a lot more responsive than before. Depend how deep your pocket is but even part only it will cost you a chunk of cash, so much so Tim know me by name now lol.
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