Doc Alejo

When I first bought my 2006 Acura TL w/ Navigation, I bought it salvaged. There were few quirks that needed to fixed like I have a bent rim which shakes out of the car when I drive it, an oil pan that's need to replaced due to the threads that the previous owner damaged when removing the oil drain plug, a replacement to the power steering reservoir, and very few minor scratches... beside all that, a total of 14,000 dollars, 77,800 miles, with also a 100,000 mile/6 year Reliable Protection Plan. I think its well worth it. Can never complain with a V6 engine. And the engine still runs smooth. Never heard any complaints about these cars beside the whole driving aspect and being stiff while turning the car from a 0-10 mph. I love the car and its very convenient. Pretty good on the gas too. =)

nj2pa2nc

keep those crabs under control so you can avoid curbs in the future

david_vang

alright so i've decided i want to get a tl. i'm looking at an 04 with 120k miles ($10800).

i'm not set on buying it but i would want to go take a look at it on sunday. what are things that i should look for that are signs that the car is a no no.

so far i've came up with this checklist:
- vin check: https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...5&postcount=11
- ask for servicing records. regular maintenance, 105k
- test drive
- low ball

if anybody could chime in that would be great.

http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/2763461324.html

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

my tl has cost me quite a bit:

$2200 for a tranny rebuilt because the redline type f fluid that everyone kept saying to use caused my transmission to flare between shifts and eventually led to failure.
$180 for the purge control valve(tighten gas cap warning light, common problem)
my bluetooth module has gone out($200+ for a new bluetooth module)
my navi dvd drive has showed a few signs that its on its way out ($157 to fix at alpine)

and i am a college student....so all these problems arent helping

TLtrigirl

iTrader: (1)

interior condition (seats, leather, trim, make sure all the electronics work and lights work-incuding switches, sunroof, windows, navi if equipped etc)

exterior condition (including paint condtion, body lines, panel gaps, tires, wheels, VINs on appropriate body panels, windshield, brake pad and rotor visual inspection, etc)

under the hood-check fluids for color and level

IF any thing is "broken" or needs to be replaced, make note of it and possible expense to get it fixed. you may use these items as bargaining chips.

driving the car-around town and hwy run, make sure tranny isn't acting up, brake rotors aren't warped (vibration while braking), listen for noises (some rattles will be typical for the TL, unusual noises from the engine bay), check for "pulls" by the car for the alignment, feel for anything unusual (vibrations)...while this is not a complete list....this is a good start to point you in the right direction.

take an extra set of eyes with you that knows about cars if possible (you will be emotionally invested in the car, your friend will not and can be much more objective).

IF this is the car you desire, then get a pre-purchase inspection from an acura dealer with permission from the owner (this will cost you maybe $150). the dealer will know the car the best. pull the carfax (it's not the end all of the vehicle history, but it gives you an idea of what has or has not been done. keep in mind not all accidents, if any, will be reported to carfax).

do your price comparison shopping for a similar vehicle in your area through cars.com or autotrader.com. this will determine whether you are getting a fair price. also cross reference KBB, nada, and edmund's for private party prices. figure out your range first, then know how much you are willing to spend once this HW has been done.

again, these are just guidelines to follow to make an educated purchase.

with 120k mi...just make sure you have a little something set aside in case something decides to go south on the "new" car. parts for the TL aren't cheap and neither is labor at a dealer. indy shops will be less expensive, but it's still not cheap.

good luck.

3GNBPTL

Holy shit I would've jumped all over this already but I already have one. I paid 1k more than this one with 20k more miles when I bought it. And its a Wisconsin car...buy it already.

And here's another thing between me and you since we're Hmong. I assume you still live at home. You know your parents will hand you a few dollars when REALLY needed. I live on my own with two kids and when I'm down on my very last dollar, my mom still comes through especially with car repairs because she knows I need to go to work and have two kids to support at the same time.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Love you, girl!

I hate cars

Seriously dude, you're ignorant. Type F did not cause your failure. Stop spreading bad info. Your trans was shot from the beginning. I have twice the miles you do and no issues.