Well, I'm mainly judging by how far out the ramps have to start to not scrape at firestone...reason being, is that it's not just smooth sailing as soon as your tires touch and it's not touching the front bumper I think it's a ways up or even after it clears the apex that it won't try and rip your bumper off.

...and yeah, man...big time. I really did feel sorry for that girl. Can you image your final thought as you feel the 3500 pounds come down on your chest? Fk that, that's enough of an image to make me VERY careful.

 

That is pretty cool, but fkn HUGE. I'd also run a couple of carriage bolts with huge washers thru every few feet to ensure the screws don't work themselves loose. If a side comes off, I think that whole thing would collapse.

 

http://hellosundae.wordpress.com/2011/06/17/tutorial-how-to-change-your-cars-oil/

 

Hell if that could be designed to stand upright for storage or even split in two for storage I may have to consider something like that.

It'd be amazing to get that kind of access so easily.

 

... and all you can do is change your oil or an exhaust. I always thought drive on lifts were dumb.

 

all this talk about ramps and crap. how hard is it to jack up a vehicle properly and settle it down on jack stands?

 

I fully agree! I have yet to ever have a car fall. Just buy the proper jack and stands.

 

That's all I do. I just don't trust the side lift points even to hold the car on jack stands. I've heard of them failing countless times.

 

^that is absurd man.

why do you think they are there in the first place?

 

Thats just simply dumb. Acura puts them there to jack on. They didnt put the core support there to jack on nor did they put the tie down on the rear floor for jacking... All your going to do is screw up your car.

 

as i've said, Ive had the car on stands located under those 4 lift points for over 3 weeks.

they call me JustonJax!

 

^to pictures of Austin.

 

What's dumb?

I use the lift points as described in the manual. I just said that I don't trust them. I've heard of them failing before. I didn't say that because I don't trust them that I don't use them.

My procedure every time is to jack up the front with a 3 ton floor jack and set jack stands up on the side lift points. Rear points if I'm doing the rear with the floor jack on the toe hook. There is no other way that you should be doing it. I don't put much trust into those side lift points because

1) They are on the under carriage of the car and are prone to rusting and structual weakness over time.

2) They are less than 3mm thick to hold up a 3500 pound vehicle.

3) I've heard of them failing before.

 

 

failing how?

 

 

^^^took me a second.

remember JJH, it's not 3500 all one one corner of the car. Either way, man...you're on the right track. You have to do what's safe and okay for YOU. If you take extra precautions, that's your prerogative!

Personally, I just lift up one side of the car with my brute strength and place 2 rolled up beach towels under the tires before going under. But that's just me, I understand that not everyone is going to be as strong, you know?

 

i gave a great analogy that was missed.

its like walking on a bed of nails.

 

1)You jack your car up from the front radiator support? That's sheet metal man..and that's more prone to rusting or abuse since it's right up front. THAT definitely doesn't have the structural integrity to hold up the weight of the car..

2) Jack points are 2 or more panels that meet together, they're corners. Think of it like the point of a triangle,it's the strongest end.

3) Curious to know how? unless we're talking rotted out hondas and older domestics. not on a 3G TL.


Agreed.

 

the 4 pinch welded jack points are definitely capable of bending especially near their ends if the jack stands aren't centered properly. Mine have some bent corners that are partially from this crappy crooked torin jackstand

 

bent jackstands? Better see a Dr. about that...
paging Dr. JustinJacks!


Justin, I know, but sometimes your witty irony is lost amongst your smart assery.

 

 

All of my previous unibody cars have had the the welded seam bend/fold over. Either crushed/bent from using a small jack (non-factory) or from a lift at a shop. Many factory jacks have a nice hook/sleeve that the lip fits into nicely and distributes the load across the lip. A regular floor jack (especially cheapo ones like I have) have a small round pad which only makes contact in 2 places.

Of course I am assuming the TL has the same lip like most other cars I have worked on. I truthfully have only had my TL up on jacks once since I owned it to change the front brakes out.

 

didnt read the full thread but:

1> hand brake....i want you to rip that ebrake


2> wheel chock

 

I'm ordering some chocks today.

 

 

Some people dont know how a car is put together i guess... The jack point are at the one of the strongest parts of the car PERIOD. The pinch weld may bend over if you dont jack it properly but this is not the torque box letting go. You can explain complex things like how a car designed if people dont understand this simple point.

 

G'dammit Majofo, that's NOT what I said!!!!

 

not the jackstand itself, but the part inside that the car sits on is crooked. I couldn't get it to sit straight in the jackstand so i got a new set. Also have a leaky torin 3 ton jack that i got at walmart with the first set; can't recommend either.

 

LOL, I'm with you, man...
I think mine are slightly bent too, sometimes when lowering, the cradle get stuck under, gotta jiggle and shake it (know what i mean?).

I have the blue aluminum racing jack from pep boys...it's great
big boy is a low profile to VERY high profile heavy ass jack from harbor freight. I love that baby...I think it's like 2 1/2" at the lowest point and it's so long it doesn't touch side of car for jacking...and it goes up to 20" up top. I can almost lay my car on it's side and sit on a lawn chair to do exhaust work.

 

Im uber late to the party but this also happened to a friend of mine on his rsx. Don't take the saddle out.

Just get a low profile jack. It's not worth it.

If a low pro isn't low enough you need to jack up the side a bit before sliding another jack into the front. Same with lowering the car.

it was on an rsx and it slipped around 15- 16"

jack went straight through the car. radiator broke. support snapped. condensor bent. the upper bracket popped up and the hood latch bent. hood wouldnt close anymore.

tried to hammer everything back in place like an idiot. removed one of the bolts to the condensor to try to get it out of the way and realized that was the release valve. freon exploded. both of us on the ground blind for a few hours. started tripping out from the freon.


wasn't fun.

 

If this isnt enough to change peoples mind about jacking up cars on the core support you deserve whatever happens!

 

good job.

 

This whole thread makes me never want to get under a car that is not on a rack.

 

Lol @ at a RSX having freon... But r134a can make you hallucinate!

 

That's a fkn crazy a$$ story.

Keep some 2 by fours to drive up on to get the jack under.

 

^^^^ Its funny how not a lot of people think of that....

the first thing I put in my garage was a low profile jack, 4 stands and a dozen 2 by 4's just in case

 

 

so much win in that first one.

 

I knew I was missing a key tool in my garage, 10"x7' log and 3 red necks to sit on it!